quarantine fish without any biological media

UFO8MyCow

New member
I am almost ready to fill my 60 cube and since I am using all dry rock and sand I know that it will take a while to cycle the tank but I would like to start quarantining a few fish but I don't have a used sponge or filter sock or any other biological medias to put in.

I will be setting up to do daily 1 gallon water changes can do more or less as needed) on my display tank and can just swap that over to the quarantine tank witch is about 15 gallons would that be OK instead of the bio media?
 
You could always set up a small QT with some fully cured live rock from the LFS. Make sure it's not connected to the stores fish tanks in any way.

You'll have a short cycle if you get it locally & get it home quickly Withiut drying out. Of course copper can't be used without ruining the rock and you should still monitor ammonia build up and be ready to act if it becomes a problem.
 
I was planning on copper and Prazipro just for good measure. I know that copper is bad for the inverts and nothing can go in the main tank but is it bad for the bacteria on the rock too?
 
The problem is more that your live rock will absorb your meds meaning that 1. it's no longer useful for your tank because at some point what goes in will leach back out and 2. it's likely to throw off your medication levels. Since the rock would absorb some, less would be available to treat the fish but knowing exactly how much less could become very, very challenging.
 
Why not just use Prime to take care of the ammonia?
Live rock is not A good idea for QTs. Instead just use a couple od pvc fittings for the fish to hide in.
 
I very seldom cycle a QT. I rely on WC's and prime. I will put an ammonia alert badge in the tank and I will have enough water on hand for WC's. I will only QT one or two fish at a time.
 
I very seldom cycle a QT. I rely on WC's and prime. I will put an ammonia alert badge in the tank and I will have enough water on hand for WC's. I will only QT one or two fish at a time.

Still a newbie here, and you may have seen one of my numerous threads on QT'ing fish.
I would cycle the QT. It only takes about 3-5 days with biospira, and I would have seachem matrix in the HOB filter, mesh bag works too. Not cycling the QT is just stressful for me, and the QT on the Solorensis Wrasse I have right now is going quite well for me.
Just my two cents. I have tremendous respect for the others who talked in this thread, and they know lots more than me, but I would 100% cycle the QT
 
I very seldom cycle a QT. I rely on WC's and prime. I will put an ammonia alert badge in the tank and I will have enough water on hand for WC's. I will only QT one or two fish at a time.

i'm with tony on this one. over the months i was stocking my 75g, i qt'ed 1 or 2 fish at a time. i waited many weeks between additions. just don't have a lot of room for a fully cycled qt so i set it up as i needed it.
 
Live rock is not A good idea for QTs. Instead just use a couple odd pvc fittings for the fish to hide in.

Cured live rock is fine for a QT, especially if you've got spare pieces on hand. (I wouldn't buy new expensive rock for this purpose). But if you've got it, use it!

It's got the bacteria you need, no chemicals to fool with and provides a hiding place for the fish. It also allows for a rapid set up if that one uncommon fish that is on your buy list suddenly shows up at the LFS. If you choose to keep it running it's a good place to culture pods too and can be useful as temporary storage for a rouge fish or crab for instance.

TRUE: If you medicate, especially with copper, the rock can never be used again in a display tank. And I can definitely see how it could absorb meds and make getting precise dosages more difficult - a good point. But the LR can always be removed prior to this and you can go to your Plan B.

This is the only downside I can see. But of course if you don't want to maintain a small amount of LR, then the idea isn't a good one. Since the OP wants to do preventative copper treatment from the beginning, I agree this is a non starter for him.

But the LR/QT works for me as I've only had to treat one fish with copper over the years. For me the main value of a QT is getting the fish to eat the fish eating the foods I use and letting it calm down. Treating with Prazi is no problem. Just one opinion of many...
 
I currently have a "wanted" list for 6 fish at my LFS. For that reason I have a few filter pads & ceramic bio media hidden away on a shelf in my sump. Just in case a bunch come in at once and that way I won't be forced to QT them all together.

QUESTION:
I've always wondered if used, DRIED filter pads & bio media may be able to harbor estivated nitrifying bacteria, and if those bacteria can spring back into action when the pads or media is put back in SW again. Many species of bacteria can do this and I've always wondered if it also applied to oceanic bacteria that fuel the nitrogen cycle.
 
Seems like biospira would be more reliable than dried pads?
Dunno, but I think if that worked dr Tim would be selling pre-populated filter pads
 
I very seldom cycle a QT. I rely on WC's and prime. I will put an ammonia alert badge in the tank and I will have enough water on hand for WC's. I will only QT one or two fish at a time.

How quickly does Ammonia build up in these conditions? Let's say you are trying to quarantine a smaller fish (clown, goby, small wrasse like 6 line etc.) and they are in a 10gallon QT tank, and feeding sparingly, how many days before ammonia is high enough to merit a water change? I'm thinking of going this exact route, but wondering what I am getting into. thanks.
 
How quickly does Ammonia build up in these conditions? Let's say you are trying to quarantine a smaller fish (clown, goby, small wrasse like 6 line etc.) and they are in a 10gallon QT tank, and feeding sparingly, how many days before ammonia is high enough to merit a water change? I'm thinking of going this exact route, but wondering what I am getting into. thanks.

I have found usually every couple of days I do a WC. I also do the TTM prior to going into the main QT. I have not had ammonia issues during TTM. I rely on the ammonia alert badge. Every setup is a bit different with the fish and feeding. Good luck
 
+1 to prime and water changes. For one small fish in a 10G, an addition of prime every other day and large (>= 50%) water changes twice a week should suffice, but do monitor ammonia just in case.
 
I think I am more confused than ever now.

So would I be ok if I used bio spira and some seachem matrix in the filter and let it sit for a couple days?

I am planning to leave this tank set up for a while at least until I get my tank all stocked. my plan is to have my daily water change dump into it and a built in overflow to the drain so the water will constantly be changed in it as well
 
yeah its really confusing
QT is annoying b/c theres so many diff things that can interact. Like how to keep ammonia level low with water changes, but then copper won't stay up.
For me it was just too overwhelming to try to figure out my own thing. I just picked someone who knew what they are doing, and copied their whole kit 'n kaboodle. I think I'll be ready to get creative with disease treatments or mix an match them in like 10 years, but until then I play by the book.

Is there a tank that you got the idea from to do this system, or are you inventing it as you go?
 
I am just inventing as I go.

As for the automatic water changes that is just something I decided was mandatory along with some other automation for my main tank and I figured I could use it on the quarantine until the main tank is cycled then use the old water from the display to do auto changes in the quarantine. That way there is only 1 tank to take care of and I would still have a quarantine setup at a moments notice. all in would need is throw some marine pure balls from the sump into quarantine and start the hob filter
 
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