QUARANTINE YOUR FIRST FISH! Why?>>>

We dipped them in FW with copper... We lost a few (very few) but it kept our tanks parasite free... I DO NOT recommend anyone doing this... It is something that I have used and have had very good results with... So please take this with a grain of salt...

IMO that may provide some relief if they have some sort of ailment but it would not correct the situation. But I wish you good luck.
 
I only plan on having 3 fish in my tank.

2 clowns, and MAYBE 1 goby.

Can I just do a super slow acclimation?

I don't want to set up a QT, to use it once. I've invested 3 months into just curing and cycling rock. Couldn't I just be very very picky about my choice of fish?

Basically get savvy with my lfs, and take their cream of the crop?


Not sure what a long acclimation would do to prevent disease, nothing really. And if the "cream of the crop" is in a system with ich, then they all have ich.

I used two containers I bought at the container store. They were cheap, and I did TTM. Cheaper than having fish die.
 
How is it possible to prevent an ammonia/nitrite spike on a quarantine tank with nothing in it but pvc, some used filter media and a heater?

I'm going to be adding two clowns, 4 anthias and a flame angel to a 29 gallon. I'm using cupramine with a seachem test kit and a ammonia alert badge. Concerned about the tank going through a cycle.
 
From what I've read, if you use TTM you get the fish out faster than the ammonia can typically build to any dangerous levels.
 
I can't do that. It's going to be impossible for me to catch my fish out of the display and once they go in the QT they will be staying there for 4+ weeks.
 
Yea seachem website says to not do that mix. I assume you have an ich outbreak in the tank? Any reason you can't do TTM, then into a holding tank while you DT remains fallow? then you can manage ammonia with the prime, or large water changes.
 
Yea seachem website says to not do that mix. I assume you have an ich outbreak in the tank? Any reason you can't do TTM, then into a holding tank while you DT remains fallow? then you can manage ammonia with the prime, or large water changes.

One of my clowns has had ich for months now. All other fish appear fine but I know I have to get them all out.

Wouldn't I need two tanks to do TTM? I only have my display and the 29 gallon and once I take my fish out of the display they aren't going back in until I know they are disease free. The display is filled with rock and coral and it will be a pain catching the fish. Hopefully I can get them out.
 
One of my clowns has had ich for months now. All other fish appear fine but I know I have to get them all out.



Wouldn't I need two tanks to do TTM? I only have my display and the 29 gallon and once I take my fish out of the display they aren't going back in until I know they are disease free. The display is filled with rock and coral and it will be a pain catching the fish. Hopefully I can get them out.


Your tank will need 72 days fallow too.

No joke, I just did TTM with two similar to this. http://www.containerstore.com/s/sto...-tote-with-locking-lid/12d?productId=10010170
A heater, an airstone. That's all. No need for anything too fancy.
 
when treating with copper to keep ammonia down WC's are your friend. Make sure the change water copper is the same as the tank or the copper level may drop resulting in a less than treatment level. This is why testing multiple times a day is important.
 
Uncle Salty made a post a while back. He said he made it 17 years without QT'ing a single fish.

He simply watched very closely at the lfs, asked to watch it feed, and put a deposit on it and have them hold it for a week, then came back and watched it again. If everything was kosher, it came home with him.

So 17 years + proven results = QT isn't completely necessary.

Highly recommended yes. But necessary, absolutely not.

My wife would have a fit if I told her I need another tank, regardless of the reason.

Just be smart, don't rush, and find an lfs that you trust, and also trusts you.
 
That was before the distribution system became what it is. The number of problems is exceeding what we used to see, and I've been at this some few decades. Your chances are better by doing that observation; but your individual chances are not as good as they used to be. Plus---how many diseases, parasitic effects, and problems can a novice recognize on visual inspection? I do suggest googling every disease and parasite you hear of so that you CAN recognize them on sight. That does help. Dunno how many times I've heard---'i don't like that fish! He's a bully! Give me that little one over there. He's so cute...' [translation: the bully is healthy; we're not so sure about the shy 'cute' one getting beaten up on.]
 
I am planning to set up QT tank while my DT is cycling.

I read that I can use the water from WC from my DT to set up a QT tank if I don't want to set up a permanent one and just set it up only when I need it.

My question is:
If I use the water and filter floss from my DT water change, does not it mean that I am using "dirty" water and "dirty" filter floss (from detritus) to QT my livestock? I mean when all the Nitrates are in the water.
 
For QT tank, what supplements , temp, or medication do ya suggest to add to prevent or heal any parasite that may come with the fish?
 

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