It is. All but one are still juvenile. When I purchased them, I looked for young fish so I could watch them grow. I'll just be aggressive towards husbandry till the fallow period is over. I simply do not have the room to house them untill then. If it starts to create issues, I'll return some of the more common ones. I think my hippo, yellow, and mimic will be the most cramped. We will see how it goes
Quarantining an existing reef
- Thread starter Grayhead
- Start date
CrayolaViolence
New member
Just make sure to put a top on it so no one jumps out.
Mrs. Music
New member
Have you considered using quinine phosphate? I used it in 2014 and left a DT fishless to treat ich. It was very challenging. I think you have a good plan.
So you are using a
*40 gallon breeder. ----coverer/screen it. Nervous crowded jumpy fish
*skimmer ----excellent!!!!
*dried out rock ---possibly will leach alot of pollution and hold parasites if you do not use medication...Consider plastic plants and pvc pieces instead.
* TTM later rather than at the beginning? Maybe I misunderstood?
*water changes daily---excellent
*bottled bacteria ----excellent! I found I had non detectable ammnia using Stability by Seachem--ammonia kept climbing despite frequent water changes in QT PRIOR to using Stability. I also suggest an ammonia monitor by Seachem. It worked awesomely!
I also placed a tiny led light on a timer with a night light near by so it was never full dark. Reduced fish jitters.
So you are using a
*40 gallon breeder. ----coverer/screen it. Nervous crowded jumpy fish
*skimmer ----excellent!!!!
*dried out rock ---possibly will leach alot of pollution and hold parasites if you do not use medication...Consider plastic plants and pvc pieces instead.
* TTM later rather than at the beginning? Maybe I misunderstood?
*water changes daily---excellent
*bottled bacteria ----excellent! I found I had non detectable ammnia using Stability by Seachem--ammonia kept climbing despite frequent water changes in QT PRIOR to using Stability. I also suggest an ammonia monitor by Seachem. It worked awesomely!
I also placed a tiny led light on a timer with a night light near by so it was never full dark. Reduced fish jitters.
Mrs. Music
New member
If you are interested in my saga treating ich.
Thank you Mrs music.
The plan is to have the fish clean before introducing to the 40 gallon tank. I have not made a choice as to using chemicals to treat. I think TTM and hyposalinity should be enough. I may include fresh water dips between transfers as well.
As for my fish, everyone has cleared up in my display. No visible signs of ich. The flamehawk that was showing signs is looking good now. So this is totally a preventative measure. I will also add, I was purchasing from a store that claimed their fish to be pest free. The fish I purchased have all been fat and active. The powder brown was the shocker. I firmly believe I can maintain the display as is considering it has basically all the fish I want to add, outside of a purple tang and a sailfin tang. But having lost a tank to velvet,. I opted to correct it while everyone is still young.
The plan is to have the fish clean before introducing to the 40 gallon tank. I have not made a choice as to using chemicals to treat. I think TTM and hyposalinity should be enough. I may include fresh water dips between transfers as well.
As for my fish, everyone has cleared up in my display. No visible signs of ich. The flamehawk that was showing signs is looking good now. So this is totally a preventative measure. I will also add, I was purchasing from a store that claimed their fish to be pest free. The fish I purchased have all been fat and active. The powder brown was the shocker. I firmly believe I can maintain the display as is considering it has basically all the fish I want to add, outside of a purple tang and a sailfin tang. But having lost a tank to velvet,. I opted to correct it while everyone is still young.
Next on my list is setting up for corals. I have never did this. Sucks to purchase more equipment solely for this purpose. I am about a third of the way from having all the coral I want in my display. After reading about everyone's nightmare fighting pest, I've decided to be proactive in that area as well.
CrayolaViolence
New member
It doesn't have to be that expensive. You could probably get a plug N play tank anywhere from 5-40 gallons for 100-400.00 and a cheap t5 light off of eBay. When you have all the corals populated in your tank you can keep the QT as a frag tank. When your corals grow, cut your frags and save them then take them to your LFS or sell them to fellow reefers. In the end, the corals will not only be happier and healthier, the QT tank will help pay for itself.
Mrs. Music
New member
Mrs. Music
New member
ok, I did misunderstand. I think it sounds like a good plan. One thing I liked about the CP, or QP vs copper was that it was supposed to not effect an established biofilter. I had a meager amount of bioballs in my sump that I had been preserving for just this purpose. It was insufficient for the bioload, but better than nothing. I think a 40 gallon breeder is a good sized QT/TREATMENT tank. Your guys will be crowed a tad but overall I think a nice open space for gas exchange. I used a 30 gallon. blech. It was not fun. umm, back to you...the skimmer is even better. Makes me feel that not being able to sell my old G3 is gonna be a good thing for my next QT batch of fish. oops I digress again.
I have everything in place to start. I have decided to wait on doing this till mid spring. Have a surgery on my back approaching, plus gearing up for a large contract starting in March. Tank seems stable for the moment. Will put everything on cruise control till I know I have time to fully devote to doing this.
If the fish are also coming from the same infected tank, then it actually doesn't matter. Returning the rock may be problematic depending upon method of treatment. If the fish are coming form an uninfected source, then it would also be problematic.
vhuang168
New member
If he was going to do copper or other medications then yes. It doesn't matter. We were talking about doing TTM at that time.
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CrayolaViolence
New member
Marine velvet as well as other parasites come in various species where they are resistant to different levels of hyposalinity. I've learned the hard way that if I want "clean" parasite free fish, they have to be wormed and treated as if they are in fact infected. Many people have lots of luck not doing this. And just as many have lots of luck not quarantining at all. Personally, I don't have that kind of luck, so I treat because there is no reliable diagnostics tests to check the animal, aside from taking tissue samples from various parts of the fish and looking at them under a microscope. Even then you can miss that one imbedded parasite.
Well, the process has begun. I lost both of my midnight clowns and the mimic tang. The clowns and tang looked to have velvet. Since that is the case, ill be doing a copper treatment initially in 35ppm water. I have the holding tank cycling as well.
I have to have the fish in holding before vacation. I may keep the holding tank in hypo till time to move back to the display.
Also I have all fish but one coral beauty and a Bangi.
I purchased an aqua medic fish trap. I havent feed the display for over 2 weeks now. This was the only way to influence the fish to the trap. The bangi ignores the trap. The coral beauty swims near the trap looking for food that manages to float out. I am still recovering from back surgery, so moving all the rock out to catch them is an issue. Not counting the removal of close to a hundred corals. little bugger is a smart thing.
I have to have the fish in holding before vacation. I may keep the holding tank in hypo till time to move back to the display.
Also I have all fish but one coral beauty and a Bangi.
I purchased an aqua medic fish trap. I havent feed the display for over 2 weeks now. This was the only way to influence the fish to the trap. The bangi ignores the trap. The coral beauty swims near the trap looking for food that manages to float out. I am still recovering from back surgery, so moving all the rock out to catch them is an issue. Not counting the removal of close to a hundred corals. little bugger is a smart thing.
I hate my coral beauty. Haven't fed my tank in a long time
I've caught every fish besides the coral beauty and one Bangi. I set the aquamedic and caught everyone. I have resorted to turning the trap facing the rock. I put food in it and crabs come out the woodwork for the bait. The beauty will swim around the opening waiting for food. I feed my coral reef roofs tonight. Watch the corals respond. Look down and guess who is picking inside the trap. Manage to pull the line and he darts out before it closes. So I figure that would be it for several more days. Reset the trap and he comes right back in. Second time a no go. I really don't want to take my tank down to catch it. As for the Bangi, I can flush him out with the nets. Just haven't tried hard due to waiting g for this coral beauty.
I've caught every fish besides the coral beauty and one Bangi. I set the aquamedic and caught everyone. I have resorted to turning the trap facing the rock. I put food in it and crabs come out the woodwork for the bait. The beauty will swim around the opening waiting for food. I feed my coral reef roofs tonight. Watch the corals respond. Look down and guess who is picking inside the trap. Manage to pull the line and he darts out before it closes. So I figure that would be it for several more days. Reset the trap and he comes right back in. Second time a no go. I really don't want to take my tank down to catch it. As for the Bangi, I can flush him out with the nets. Just haven't tried hard due to waiting g for this coral beauty.
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