Question about Ich Attack

Nemo's Girl

New member
I have an outbreak of ich in my fish only tank with live rock. I'm using Kordon's ''Ich Attack'' now for about a week. Raised the temperature to 80 degree's but my fish still have the white spots on their skin. Especially my Blue tang. Does anyone know if ''Ich attack'' actually works?! I've read articles about it and they say it's really good for reefs and fish only tanks with live rock.

Should I go ahead and use Cupramine? Any advice please!
 
Hello,

I don't know about the Ich Attack but I would not go using Copper in your main display. Even though you don't mention any inverts, snails, Hermits etc, there will be inverts present on and in the LR. Using Copper will wipe them out an may cause the tank to cycle again due to the mass die-off of these inverts.

Better to remove the fish to a hospital tank to treat with Copper if you can.

HTH
Campbell
 
ALWAYS Treat your fish in QT. At best it does completely nothing including not kill the parasite, at worst. It renders the entire tank uninhabitable for quite a while. There are only 2 known cures for Ich, that is copper and hypo. Both need to be done in QT.
 
It's just another BBQ sauce marketed as a ich cure :(

Read a few of the links in this sticky thread to get a good understanding of the parasite and the treatments that are proven to work.
 
I am interested in this stuff too, and need some real world proof that it works, not looking for some sceptic to bash it but has anyone really used it succesfully?

The active ingredient is napthoquinone any experience with this?
 
badigital,

I'm not just being a skeptic, I've tried it myself and found it not up the task it's sold for. I've also known quite a few other people that have tried it and found it not to work ;)
 
Please save your money and do not endorse this Ich-attack product. It will just make your tank worse than it is now. Keep your tank clean and healthy. Remove your fish and hospitalize with copper or hypo. Leave main tank empty for 2 months. Long, hard wait but must be done.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11253105#post11253105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by paulamrein
ALWAYS Treat your fish in QT. At best it does completely nothing including not kill the parasite, at worst. It renders the entire tank uninhabitable for quite a while. There are only 2 known cures for Ich, that is copper and hypo. Both need to be done in QT.

So you are saying Formalin/malachite green combo like Rid Ich+ will not kill crypto?:confused:
I find that very hard to believe as it's mentioned many time on wetweb.
 
Formalin can be effective, but it needs to be dosed shortly before day break so that it is at max concentration when the pesky little tomites are in the water column looking for new hosts. If dosed later in the day, formalin is volatile enough that the concentration is substantially reduced and not effective when it needs to be. As a result, formalin is not widely used and for most people is not effective. Also it's volatility combined with being a carcinogen make it something best avoided if at all possible.
 
"There is another interesting observation I found in my investigations concerning the biology of Cryptocaryon irritans. Mature trophonts leave the host and tomites exit the theront/cyst in the dark (Yoshinaga & Dickerson, 1994)."
-Steven Pro

I'm not sure but the hatched tomites become theronts?
This is all very confusing.lol
 
worked for me

worked for me

I ussed ich attack. it took about 2-3 weeks of treatment before the spots went away on my purple tang. but, then a week later spots showed up on my royal gramma! go figure. it did seem to work though. I treated for 3-4 additional days after the spots left the tang. i did not treat again when the spots showed up on the royal gramma. mean I know, but I would rather loose him than the tang.
 
also, ich attack is safe for a reef aquarium- no copper. my lfs suggested treating in my main tank- no ill effects to my corals or inverts at all- they are thriving!!! i do wonder if the cycle of the ich simply occured or if it really was the ich attack?
 
Billsreef,

The controversy continues and it seems like these like these dudes are harder to eliminate than anything else I have encountered. I do not post often here on RC but watch it closely, too much controversy and bashing for me...

Anyhow, I have lost my PB to these dreaded pest and now other fish are fighting these guys as well, I have readup on as much crypto as a guy can possibly take in a week or longer.

It is true that they seem to leave the host between the hours of 2 am and 6 am for some weird reason. They have different cycles depending on exactly which type you are lucky enough to have.

Ich attack uses napthoquinone as the active ingredient...hmmm

Leaving the tank fish free for two months seems like a cure.....

If you can get all the fish out of the tank, in my case this is hugely difficult....

How do we know that one did not survive during this fish free state embedded in the rock or sand for a longer time and will only come out again when the fish are re-introduced into the system...

UV's only help when they are in the swimming stage, a short time frame.

Chemical treatment of the reef is not an option, it must be organic in nature to not risk loosing corals...

Ich is not resident in all systems and must be introduced into the system. This is a true statement.

nosickfish treatments cannot be used with mud systems....

What is a guy to do to 100% percent erradicate this?
 
The controversy continues and it seems like these like these dudes are harder to eliminate than anything else I have encountered. I do not post often here on RC but watch it closely, too much controversy and bashing for me...

If you stick the science and ignore both the marketing hype and desire to want the "reef safe" marketing hype to be real, there is no controversy. The only time controversy comes into play is when people don't want to believe in the scientific literature. Considering how well researched the parasite Cryptocaryon irriatans is, there is no reason for the same debates to continuously occur. There is sticky thread in this forum with some excellent science based links that will tell any aquarist all they need to know to combat this beast ;)

Ich attack uses napthoquinone as the active ingredient...hmmm

Yup, they are grasping at straws by using something that sounds like it might do something. A little easy research shows that there is no reason to suspect that compound would have any effect on a ciliated protozoan. Possibly some effect on limeted bacteria, fungus, tumors, and maybe even muscle swelling, but none on protozoans. Another case of a product brought to market with no real scientific research behind it, just merely targeting to peoples wants instead of reality. All too common of a practice in this trade :(

How do we know that one did not survive during this fish free state embedded in the rock or sand for a longer time and will only come out again when the fish are re-introduced into the system...

The copious research on this parasite has shown that the absolute longest a cyst has ever survived is 72 days. That said, it's also been show that is a rare occurance and typically 6 weeks will be sufficient to get past any cyst being viable.

Chemical treatment of the reef is not an option

Correct, and to date no one has come up with a reliable treatment that is safe in a reef tank.

nosickfish treatments cannot be used with mud systems....

They don't work in any systems ;)

What is a guy to do to 100% percent erradicate this?

Knowing the biology and scientifically proven treatments, it's really quite simple in concept, though a pain in the backside to carry out. It really comes down to treating all fish with a reliable scientifically proven cure in a dedicated treatment tank, and leaving the reef fallow for at least 6 weeks. To prevent introduction, Quarantine, Quarantine, Quarantine. Not just the fish either, but everything if you are absolutely sure the inverts came from an ich free system. It's all a great deal to cope with, but does work to ensure that you don't end up dealing with ich in your reef ;)
 
My heart is broken. Took what was apparently a healthy tang from a friend. Love tangs but avoided them my entire life as too many people have problems with them. In comes Ich with this freakin tang. My reef has been 100% perfect for 3 yrs now. Thats day 1. I have so much coral tissue connecting LR together and a 3-5' DSB along with too many fish. All small ones but too many. I realize thats an issue but I'm on top of water parameters. Inverts out the ying-yang. One thing is clear from reading all the links. THERE IS NO EASY WAY,SHORT CUTS OR REEF SAFE CURES ANYWHERE! 2 cures work and BOTH require QT and that always means REMOVAL from display tank. It also means there may be lots more "ich" in the sand in the rock depending on where in the life cycle the parasite is. That means to me all the fish may need to be removed and the tank needs to be left fish free for at least 4-5 weeks. MY god see what happens when we mess with nature. I am so devastated I want to just sell the whole thing and just scuba more often. It will be less money and ...blah blah blah. what now. 500.00 to anyone who will help me. better yet do most of the work. bonus if all the fish live. OMG
 
Fish traps work on some fish, and the ol' blind 'em at night with a bright flashlight after the lights have been out works quite well ;)
 
Never heard of that one billsreef, I am going to keep that one in mind. I have a third-wheel clown that needs to come out.
 
Got that trick from a friend of mine that routinely plucks fish out of a 20,000 gallon reef tank at a public aquarium.
 
My thoughts on the ich question
While I do belive it may be possible to eradicate ich from a tank, I believe the health of the fish, the water quality and more importantly the water volume are the real factors determining whether a fish gets infected...
For example, I have been diving in just about every tropical ocean in the world, but have never seen a fish that loked infected..why not? Surely it exists in the wild?
I believe the reason is that there is probably a very low level of infection present...when the parasites fall off and multiply in the ocean they are diluted infinitely and eaten by other creatures. In the tank this dilution does not occur and the numbers of parasites increase exponentially. This results in numbers of parasities that the fish cannot deal with on its own...
just my theory
 
It is not a theory but a fact. In a captive environment free swimming tomites have a much higher chance of finding a host. Along with dense stocking this invariably leads to mass infection rates.
 
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