What do you think would happen if I incorporate this new Beckett foaming fountain head I got at HD for $10 into my Ron's Saltwater Heaven CC skimmer? I was thinking of enclosing the beckett inside of the skimmer body facing downward and taking the .5" barb fittinf off, tooling a straight pvc shank through the body, and barbing each side (somehow) then running nylon tubing or similar to the beckett and to the feed pump. I dunno, might overpower the skimmer. I guess I could re-tool the body. There is no urgency though, my Ron's CC works awesome.. maybe too well for some folks opinion. The skimmate that thing produces will gag a maggot!! WOW! it's bad. Ideas?
Questions About Building a CC Skimmer
- Thread starter LiquidShaneo
- Start date
water adjustments
water adjustments
Alrighty. The skimmer is 95% done and I'm gonna test it out this weekend (I hope).
One last question before I glue it all together: what should the water level be relative to the neck of the skimmer? I was thinking about trying it something like 2-3" below the neck.
Thanks,
-Lee
water adjustments
Alrighty. The skimmer is 95% done and I'm gonna test it out this weekend (I hope).
One last question before I glue it all together: what should the water level be relative to the neck of the skimmer? I was thinking about trying it something like 2-3" below the neck.
Thanks,
-Lee
Thanks, Snailman!
Thanks, Snailman!
Snailman,
Just wanted to jot off a quick note of thanks.
I've had my CC Skimmer (based on yours and Joseph Sellinger's plans) running for the the last 2 weeks.
I'm very happy with it. It produces about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of skimmate with a pea-soup color/consistancy per week, which is quite a lot for a light to moderately feed 70 gallon system.
The effluent skimmate bubbles are almost identical to those pictured on your website.
The only major change I had to make was to reduce the length of the bubble neck from 6" to 2" and run the water level in the skimmer slightly higher than in your instructions. This is most likely due to the fact that I'm running a much smaller air pump than you are (Tetra DW-96).
Thanks to everyone for their input on this thread ( LiquidShaneo, and KW, especially)
Thanks again,
-Lee
P.S. Snailman, you have one of the sharpest, cleanest reef websites out there!
Thanks, Snailman!
Snailman,
Just wanted to jot off a quick note of thanks.
I've had my CC Skimmer (based on yours and Joseph Sellinger's plans) running for the the last 2 weeks.
I'm very happy with it. It produces about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of skimmate with a pea-soup color/consistancy per week, which is quite a lot for a light to moderately feed 70 gallon system.
The effluent skimmate bubbles are almost identical to those pictured on your website.
The only major change I had to make was to reduce the length of the bubble neck from 6" to 2" and run the water level in the skimmer slightly higher than in your instructions. This is most likely due to the fact that I'm running a much smaller air pump than you are (Tetra DW-96).
Thanks to everyone for their input on this thread ( LiquidShaneo, and KW, especially)
Thanks again,
-Lee
P.S. Snailman, you have one of the sharpest, cleanest reef websites out there!
I've been reading this old thread and used it to assist in building my CC skimmer.
A lot of posts mention having a higher air to water ratio. I'm using about 400 lph air and 140 lph water.
Now, 2 German companies who have produced skimmers for years, Sander and Aquamedic, both still produce CC skimmers.
Aquamedic make a Turboflotor 5000 (48" tall and 78") and there quoted flow rates are: the waterflow should be between 1500 and 3000 l/h, the airflow between 500 and 750 l.
Sanders make a skimmer and there quoted rates are 600lph water and 300lph air.
Now the principle of having a slower flow rate makes sense to me, but why would a "professional" company, presumably with qualified designers have come up with more water than air?
One thought I had was that if the water was flowing down through the air faster, then perhaps it slows the speed the air can rise to the top and keeps it in suspension longer?
Have a look at the aquamedic link for the Turboflotor 5000 Aquamedic link
It doesn't look much different from our DIY ones (a bit more polished perhaps!). One input, 2 outputs, bottom drain tap, 2 airstones, etc.
So, whats your views on the flow rate issue. I thought I had it clear in my mind until now.
I've used a small Sanders for years and was very impressed. So have respect for both Aquamedic and Sanders. I figure they know what they're doing better than me.
Regards
Tim Hunt
A lot of posts mention having a higher air to water ratio. I'm using about 400 lph air and 140 lph water.
Now, 2 German companies who have produced skimmers for years, Sander and Aquamedic, both still produce CC skimmers.
Aquamedic make a Turboflotor 5000 (48" tall and 78") and there quoted flow rates are: the waterflow should be between 1500 and 3000 l/h, the airflow between 500 and 750 l.
Sanders make a skimmer and there quoted rates are 600lph water and 300lph air.
Now the principle of having a slower flow rate makes sense to me, but why would a "professional" company, presumably with qualified designers have come up with more water than air?
One thought I had was that if the water was flowing down through the air faster, then perhaps it slows the speed the air can rise to the top and keeps it in suspension longer?
Have a look at the aquamedic link for the Turboflotor 5000 Aquamedic link
It doesn't look much different from our DIY ones (a bit more polished perhaps!). One input, 2 outputs, bottom drain tap, 2 airstones, etc.
So, whats your views on the flow rate issue. I thought I had it clear in my mind until now.
I've used a small Sanders for years and was very impressed. So have respect for both Aquamedic and Sanders. I figure they know what they're doing better than me.
Regards
Tim Hunt
New Twist
New Twist
Just to change things up a bit, Has anyone used the overflow to feed the CC skimmer input? I havent used the L Jackson sytle skimmer but have often thought of using it in combination with the Durso standpipe modification as the feed line. I am unsure if the flow rate would stay constant or if this would have any effect on the skimmer output at all. If this is possible it would eliminate an additional pump for the skimmer.
New Twist
Just to change things up a bit, Has anyone used the overflow to feed the CC skimmer input? I havent used the L Jackson sytle skimmer but have often thought of using it in combination with the Durso standpipe modification as the feed line. I am unsure if the flow rate would stay constant or if this would have any effect on the skimmer output at all. If this is possible it would eliminate an additional pump for the skimmer.
smillin920
New member
What is everyone using for airstones, and where do you buy them? I am about to build one of snailmans 6" cc's, and am going to us a Tetra Tec DW 96-2. Any suggestions on setup or supplies is appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any replies,
Shawn
Thanks in advance for any replies,
Shawn
kstockman
New member
Sebastian
The only way to go. I fed my 4" OD 7 ft tall CC skimmer from the overflow (check out my web page in the DIY section for plumbing). I had a basement sump. Now I have to use a pump to run the skimmer because I don't have enough drop. I used to run everything possible off gravity feed. Now it is only the Ca reactor. I had no flucuaction in the flow rate because the way that I plumbed it. I would adjust the water flow with a ball valve and the extra water went through a bypass line directly to the sump
I was thinking about putting dual 6" OD 5' tall skimmers on my 300--one off each overflow. I am planning on having the skimmer effluent from one or both of the skimmers go to a grow out tank.
The only way to go. I fed my 4" OD 7 ft tall CC skimmer from the overflow (check out my web page in the DIY section for plumbing). I had a basement sump. Now I have to use a pump to run the skimmer because I don't have enough drop. I used to run everything possible off gravity feed. Now it is only the Ca reactor. I had no flucuaction in the flow rate because the way that I plumbed it. I would adjust the water flow with a ball valve and the extra water went through a bypass line directly to the sump
I was thinking about putting dual 6" OD 5' tall skimmers on my 300--one off each overflow. I am planning on having the skimmer effluent from one or both of the skimmers go to a grow out tank.
kstockman
New member
I have noticed that when I reduced the water flow on my skimmer (no gravity and only a small mag pump), that I get extremely dry foam and that I have no stink. I think that this is a bad thing. I plan on increasing the flow (new pump or use of gravity feed) to get wetter foam. I like a to collect about 1 gallon of skimmate a week. WHen I had the skimmer operating this way, the stuff smelled so bad it would smell up the entire house for an hour.
I have found it easier and cheaper to build a collection cup that is square. This way you don't have to buy an expensive large diameter section of acrylic. I also make the collection volume large (on the order of a half gallon)
LiquidShaneo
I have a 3" OD skimmer from Ron's Saltwater heaven that I am thinking about getting rid of. It is not in service and may not go into service once I build a 6" skimmer. It is about 3 years old.
I have found it easier and cheaper to build a collection cup that is square. This way you don't have to buy an expensive large diameter section of acrylic. I also make the collection volume large (on the order of a half gallon)
LiquidShaneo
I have a 3" OD skimmer from Ron's Saltwater heaven that I am thinking about getting rid of. It is not in service and may not go into service once I build a 6" skimmer. It is about 3 years old.
LiquidShaneo
Reefer
I thought I'd throw this out for reference since I was just looking at the webpage when you posted again Ken:
http://home.att.net/~rstockman/newpage13.htm
It's a neat idea and if I ever had a sump in the basement and a tank on a second floor I'd definitely look into this design.
Thanks for the offer Ken. However, since the inception of this thread (back in 2000) I have built my own CC skimmer based on conversations w/ Snailman and reading thru PR Escobal. Here's what mine looks like today:
http://www.liquidreef.com/equip/diy_skimmer/diyskimmer_cat.html
So far it's not in use but more than likely it will be used on an up and coming system that I'm working on right now. If we hadn't had this ice storm and hadn't had to invest in a #$% generator, I would be much further along on it than I am right now. Oh well, at least I now have a generator for future power outtages.
Shane
http://home.att.net/~rstockman/newpage13.htm
It's a neat idea and if I ever had a sump in the basement and a tank on a second floor I'd definitely look into this design.
Thanks for the offer Ken.
However, since the inception of this thread (back in 2000) I have built my own CC skimmer based on conversations w/ Snailman and reading thru PR Escobal. Here's what mine looks like today:http://www.liquidreef.com/equip/diy_skimmer/diyskimmer_cat.html
So far it's not in use but more than likely it will be used on an up and coming system that I'm working on right now. If we hadn't had this ice storm and hadn't had to invest in a #$% generator, I would be much further along on it than I am right now. Oh well, at least I now have a generator for future power outtages.
Shane
kstockman
New member
Nice job on the skimmer. Here are some things to consider about the skimmer. If you have considered them, then just ignore this post.
1. put a close off valve on the collection cup. If you have too much water flow and airflow you can flood the system and collect water at a very rapid rate in the collection cup. If the collection cup is closed then the water will go back into the system. If not then the water will leave the system and this is bad.
2. Consider a clear pipe for the small diameter pipe, just so you can see what is going one as far as bubbles are concerned.
3. Consider cutting a viewer into the collection cup so you can see if it is full. Cutting out a 1/2" wide hole then glue in a piece of acrylic. Then again once the thing really gets going, you usually can't see anything in the collection cup anyway.
Just some thoughts
1. put a close off valve on the collection cup. If you have too much water flow and airflow you can flood the system and collect water at a very rapid rate in the collection cup. If the collection cup is closed then the water will go back into the system. If not then the water will leave the system and this is bad.
2. Consider a clear pipe for the small diameter pipe, just so you can see what is going one as far as bubbles are concerned.
3. Consider cutting a viewer into the collection cup so you can see if it is full. Cutting out a 1/2" wide hole then glue in a piece of acrylic. Then again once the thing really gets going, you usually can't see anything in the collection cup anyway.
Just some thoughts
LiquidShaneo
Reefer
Thanks for the tips, Ken.
1) Yup, was planning on making this mod after my BakPak w/ the same mod emptied out onto my floor while I was at work. It didn't smell pretty when I got home and found that as you can imagine.
2) Have also considered that as well as after I made it I realized it was going to be a PITA to see what's going on in there. I'll grab some spare clear acrylic/PVC to fix that somtime.
3) Also have considered this as well. I do need to be able to see in there to see what's going on. Heh, I might just end up rebuilding the collection cup using your idea of a square cup so I don't have to get in the acrylic.
Shane
1) Yup, was planning on making this mod after my BakPak w/ the same mod emptied out onto my floor while I was at work. It didn't smell pretty when I got home and found that as you can imagine.
2) Have also considered that as well as after I made it I realized it was going to be a PITA to see what's going on in there. I'll grab some spare clear acrylic/PVC to fix that somtime.
3) Also have considered this as well. I do need to be able to see in there to see what's going on. Heh, I might just end up rebuilding the collection cup using your idea of a square cup so I don't have to get in the acrylic.
Shane
I could buy the book ($109.85 to us here in the UK!) but I'm not so much interested in the formulas, but the reason why 2 large skimmer manufacturers would use higher water flow than air. Most of this thread favours more air than water.
I presume a skimmer manufacturer would have access to the the same formulas, so was inquisitive as to why they would have chosen their approach.
If anyone can throw any light on this I'd be greatful.
Really don't want to spend that much on a book to clear one point.
Tim
I presume a skimmer manufacturer would have access to the the same formulas, so was inquisitive as to why they would have chosen their approach.
If anyone can throw any light on this I'd be greatful.
Really don't want to spend that much on a book to clear one point.
Tim
LiquidShaneo
Reefer
Heh, you know that's a very good question. To me, it's obvious that they either do not understand the physics of it or they have chosen to not use the physics. I tend to believe the latter. 
Shane
To me, it's obvious that they either do not understand the physics of it or they have chosen to not use the physics. I tend to believe the latter. Shane
Aaron Shelley
New member
All this talk about counter current skimmers with air stones being the only way to independently control the air:water ratio has me confused.
Why can't you have your venturi or needle wheel pump on a dedicated loop and run your water through the skimmer with a different pump(or gravity feed for that matter). Now you can precisely control both air and water and never replace an airstone.
Your number of devices is the same, you just trade an air pump for a dedicated venturi or needle wheel pump. Sure some air pumps are cheaper than some of the pumps necessary to operate a venturi or needle wheel, but to get lots of air on a big system (mine is over 600 gal) you need a powerful air pump and a large reaction chamber. It seems the cost would be the same.
I'll admit that I've been using a needle wheel system for about a year now and like still
Why can't you have your venturi or needle wheel pump on a dedicated loop and run your water through the skimmer with a different pump(or gravity feed for that matter). Now you can precisely control both air and water and never replace an airstone.
Your number of devices is the same, you just trade an air pump for a dedicated venturi or needle wheel pump. Sure some air pumps are cheaper than some of the pumps necessary to operate a venturi or needle wheel, but to get lots of air on a big system (mine is over 600 gal) you need a powerful air pump and a large reaction chamber. It seems the cost would be the same.
I'll admit that I've been using a needle wheel system for about a year now and like still
LiquidShaneo
Reefer
While that will work, you will also significantly increase the turbulence inside the skimmer body as compared to a CC skimmer run by an airstone and one pump. According to Escobal, you want slow counter current flow with minimal turbulence for maximum efficiency.
FWIW, I believe Aquatic Technology sells a skimmer similar to this if I remember right...
Shane
FWIW, I believe Aquatic Technology sells a skimmer similar to this if I remember right...
Shane
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