Quick about Rocket Engineer Stand
- Thread starter Nortamzzo
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devildog12210
New member
Using a 1x anything is asking for trouble IMO.
devildog12210
New member
With 2x8s for the top. I overbuilt with a 2x10 planned down a bit so I had a guaranteed straight edge.
uncleof6
Active member
Yes it would. From an engineering standpoint, using 2 x lumber is horrible overkill. From a load standpoint vs strength of wood, a 180 gallon tank is a light load. There is a lot of overreaction involved here.
That said, from a construction point of view, the number of joints and how they are done, will have a direct impact on integrity, or impact on the floor, if not careful.
To maximize space in a aquarium stand, and to have a stand that is borderline overkill, 3/4" hardwood plywood is the answer, and you save yourself the additional hassle of skinning the stand. No special joints required, just screws and glue; the screws act as clamps... A plywood stand cannot rack over to the floor, which is a problem with dimensioned lumber stands, and part of the reason a skin is required. Also with plywood, you don't have to deal with twist, crook, and bow, inherent with dimesioned lumber, that causes out of whack stands and the need for more equipment to get them right.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1213499
Reefer54
New member
1x4 are only good for additional supplementary bracing IN ADDITION to 2x4.
for a 180, i would use 4x4 posts adn at least 2x 6 exterior top framing. you could get away with 2x4 cross braces, but 2 x6 would be guaranteed.
And as stated above, using a 3\4 or 7\8 in ply to tighten everything up means you could go with a2x4 frame comfortably, but i would still reccomend 2x6 framing with 4x4 corners
for a 180, i would use 4x4 posts adn at least 2x 6 exterior top framing. you could get away with 2x4 cross braces, but 2 x6 would be guaranteed.
And as stated above, using a 3\4 or 7\8 in ply to tighten everything up means you could go with a2x4 frame comfortably, but i would still reccomend 2x6 framing with 4x4 corners
devildog12210
New member
You should never ever use a 4x4 for a tank stand.
billdogg
Well-known member
exactly what he said. x 1000
either that or my stand is a disaster waiting to happen
not a 2x4, or even 1x4 in sight - just proper joints and solid construction
Rhodophyta
New member
I have to agree with Uncle on this, even if he is a minority opinion, his is fact. Over twenty years ago the Greater Akron Aquarium Society built their show stands out of 3/4 inch CDX plywood. They were going to paint it some day so it would last longer. It's been used at least once a year ever since, and the intention to paint it some day between shows is kind of fading. It still looks good.These stands assemble in a kind of tab and slot system. No glue, biscuits, screws, carriage bolts, just a slot sliding through another slot.
I have stands with 2 by 4's and 2 by 6's, but it is more that they are cheap and look better stained to me than plywood does. It's the plywood panels pinned between the dimension lumber that does the work.
I built a 160 gal stand for a guy with 1x4s and it's still standing as strong as the first day. Best part is it's more then strong enough to hold a 180 and will weigh a lot less then if you did it with 2x4
I used 1x4 common board you'd find in a big box store.
It also had 1/2 plywood to cover the frame which adds a lot of support also if done correctly
I used 1x4 common board you'd find in a big box store.
It also had 1/2 plywood to cover the frame which adds a lot of support also if done correctly
sleepydoc
Team RC
Umm... those look like 1x4s, or are they 1x3s? :spin2: Nice stand, either way!
I too agree with uncle on this, and with devildog about not using 4x4s.
Look up the compressive strength of wood. White pine is 4800 PSI, fir is 7200. A 2 x 4 fails at around 25,000 pounds, and you're using 4. (I know this ignores several factors, but you're still 1-2 orders of magnitude off.) In addition to being massive overkill beyond the 2x4s, 4x4s are prone to splitting and twisting, potentially making your stand weaker.
FWIW, my "manufacturer" stand that I got with my Marineland 120 is made of ½" furniture board. It's not even real plywood, much less solid wood.
Rhodophyta
New member
Yes Devildog is right too, not just Uncle. 4 by 4's bow, twist, bend, and warp. Often they are intended for outdoor use and treated. That would create areas unevenly penetrated by the carrier of the chemical bath, and resultant movement.
SGT_York
New member
Plywood will give you much better support than planks.
I agree that a 3/4 plywood is an efficient tank stand, but you better have a some understanding on how to join the plywood, using 2x4's as attachment pieces to the plywood certainly helps DIY's that are not experienced carpenters ensure their stands will last, safely. Using 3/4" plywood and cutting a large hole in the center panel to insert a huge sump, is probably not the best idea, using a 2x6 for the header board is very easy, safe, and will give you a better stand even if it is not weight required.
I agree that a 3/4 plywood is an efficient tank stand, but you better have a some understanding on how to join the plywood, using 2x4's as attachment pieces to the plywood certainly helps DIY's that are not experienced carpenters ensure their stands will last, safely. Using 3/4" plywood and cutting a large hole in the center panel to insert a huge sump, is probably not the best idea, using a 2x6 for the header board is very easy, safe, and will give you a better stand even if it is not weight required.
My reason for wanting to build out of 1x is to allow a wider opening on the sides of the stand, I plan to have a 75 gallon tank extending 12" out the side of the stand, with filter bags and skimmer in that area, for super simple bag changing and skimmer cup emptying. And also a 60 extending 12" out the other side of the stand, for a salt mixing station / rodi storage tank (no space in our house for a full scale fish room).
To do that, I would need 19" width between the side uprights. With the Rocket Engineer plan, 2x4s would leave me with 14". Of course, the 4 side uprights are optional, and I could leave those out.
With this plan, I could use upright supports on the front, since I wouldn't need a full front opening.
And the last reason for 1x lumber, it is much better quality here. No good lumber yards around, and Home Depot and Lowes 2x wood would require hours searching through the stacks to find the straight ones.
To do that, I would need 19" width between the side uprights. With the Rocket Engineer plan, 2x4s would leave me with 14". Of course, the 4 side uprights are optional, and I could leave those out.
With this plan, I could use upright supports on the front, since I wouldn't need a full front opening.
And the last reason for 1x lumber, it is much better quality here. No good lumber yards around, and Home Depot and Lowes 2x wood would require hours searching through the stacks to find the straight ones.
davocean
Active member
Well that would be for keeping cost and shipping weight down, I have also seen many of those fail.
I do agree ply would be a better option if you want max space and know how to connect properly, 2x's give a greater tolerance for the beginner DIY guy.
I don't recall seeing hearing or reading of any 2x frames failing if they are built correctly following rockets design.
I have built many for myself and others over the years w/ a 2x frame, I can't tell you how many tanks are sitting on my frames right now, including my own, and I sleep w/out worry.
1x could work if you know what you are doing, up to a point anyway, but for anyone here asking how to I would stick w/ ply or 2x
Flippers4pups
Home made abyss
Both plywood and 2x construction are good. I've always built mine from 2x. I like the "overkill" approach to my stands. My current build for my 125 sump and DT is 2x6 and 2x4's with plywood skins. I know they could hold twice the weight they are intended to hold. Makes me sleep better at night!:love2:
I was thinking of this at work, and like the plywood stand more and more. Would a plywood stand hold up good if I cut out a 19"x30" hole in each of the sides, for the sump and the salt mixing tank to come out of?
Of course, I will be extending the stand around them as well, so aside from the main part of the stand at 72 x 24 x 42, the side pieces will be about 12 x 20 x 42, permanently attaching to the main stand so as to look as one whole piece.
Of course, I will be extending the stand around them as well, so aside from the main part of the stand at 72 x 24 x 42, the side pieces will be about 12 x 20 x 42, permanently attaching to the main stand so as to look as one whole piece.
