Quick led wiring question.

[NanoReefWanabe]

As some of you may know I am using LED group buy Lumia chips in my current build. I bought them used, I have tested all of them and they work great. The previous owner had 6 of them over his 300g tank, I bought all 6 with everything needed to wire them, power supplies, ldd drivers 6ups, optics etc, for 120$...steal of a deal... anyway, he had them wired in pairs 2 pucks per power supply...I only want to use 3 pucks, for this tank... space is tight though, and i am having a hard time finding room to fit two power supplies...i am wondering, first, if I can run 3 pucks off one supply, and second, can a single bank of ldd drivers be run to a single puck?

The pucks are 5 channels 70w total
The drivers are on a 6up configuration board consisting of 4 700mA drivers and 2 1000mA (obviously only need to use 5)
And the powersupplies are s-250-48, so plugged into 110V they are 48V 5.2A output.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Looking atthe writeup on the website, it says the power supply can run 3 pucks using 10 ldd drives, would like tosee the wiring configurations though, andy help would be awesome

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Anyone? The guy I am talking to through email at led group buy has been less then helpful...

 

[AzMechE]

Ok, so I think I get what you are asking. You have 3 lumia LED boards which consist of 5 Channels with 5 leds per channel. You also have at least 1 driver board with 4x 700ldds and 2x 1000ldds. Also for your power you are using a 48V 250W supply.

At 48V each LDD driver could run two of of the Lumia Channels. So you could string two Lumia's in series to the one LDD driver board, but then the third would need another LDD driver board. One power supply should be enough for all of that but you would be running pretty hard.

Or you could use one LDD driver board for each Lumia LED board.

If you only have 1 driver board with 6 LDDs then you won't be able to run 3 Lumia LED boards as you don't have sufficient voltage to drive 15LEDs in series as the LDD drivers drop the voltage some. So you won't be getting 48V at the output of them which would be needed to light the LEDs.

 

[oreo57]

As some of you may know I am using LED group buy Lumia chips in my current build. I bought them used, I have tested all of them and they work great. The previous owner had 6 of them over his 300g tank, I bought all 6 with everything needed to wire them, power supplies, ldd drivers 6ups, optics etc, for 120$...steal of a deal... anyway, he had them wired in pairs 2 pucks per power supply...I only want to use 3 pucks, for this tank... space is tight though, and i am having a hard time finding room to fit two power supplies...i am wondering, first, if I can run 3 pucks off one supply, and second, can a single bank of ldd drivers be run to a single puck?

The pucks are 5 channels 70w total
The drivers are on a 6up configuration board consisting of 4 700mA drivers and 2 1000mA (obviously only need to use 5)
And the powersupplies are s-250-48, so plugged into 110V they are 48V 5.2A output.

Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)
Channel 2 - Royal Blue (base blue spectrum) (16.V @ 1000mA)
Channel 3 - 3 XT-E Netural White and 2 XT-E Warm White (base white color) (16.V @ 1000mA)
Channel 4 - Turquoise / CREE XPE2 Blue (enhanced color spectrum) (17.2V @ 700mA)
Channel 5 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)

Use a 24V ps w/
Way you want to do it would require 10 drivers OR split the current on one set (parallel arrangement of 2 pucks)
AFAICT. Easiest way is just to run 15 drivers, 1 power supply..
Use a 24V ps w/ 12A or so.. Need to know more real data..
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed

Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)

12.6A x 3 =37.8
37.8
36.12
48
48
208W total..so you will miss the "break" from 200 to 350W
Ones in red were changed by me.

IF their (clay-boa) #'s are good and IF you guess correct on the down voltage ratings you can calc. the "real" ps needs..

But back to what you have..

W/ the 5.2A 48V ps you can run w/ 10 drivers..
5 drivers feed 2 pucks in series (each channel in series) LIKE the orig owner.

And 5 drivers on one puck.
Boards will just be hooked to the power supply in parallel..
i.e 1 set of wires from the ps to each 5 up board.
SINGLE puck
12.6
16
16
12
12.6
..............................
TWO IN SERIES pucks
25.2
32
32
24
25.2
..................
208W total..
.................
One 48V ps is capable of 249W

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Use a 24V ps w/
Way you want to do it would require 10 drivers OR split the current on one set (parallel arrangement of 2 pucks)
AFAICT. Easiest way is just to run 15 drivers, 1 power supply..
Use a 24V ps w/ 12A or so.. Need to know more real data..
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed



12.6A x 3 =37.8
37.8
36.12
48
48
208W total..so you will miss the "break" from 200 to 350W
Ones in red were changed by me.

IF their (clay-boa) #'s are good and IF you guess correct on the down voltage ratings you can calc. the "real" ps needs..

But back to what you have..

W/ the 5.2A 48V ps you can run w/ 10 drivers..
5 drivers feed 2 pucks in series (each channel in series) LIKE the orig owner.

And 5 drivers on one puck.
Boards will just be hooked to the power supply in parallel..
i.e 1 set of wires from the ps to each 5 up board.
SINGLE puck
12.6
16
16
12
12.6
..............................
TWO IN SERIES pucks
25.2
32
32
24
25.2
..................
208W total..
.................
One 48V ps is capable of 249W

I was hopingto hear from you... do I have to use the 1000mA drivers for the whites? I plan on using them for the blues, but was just going touse 700mA four the rest

 

[oreo57]

Problem is any "blue" channel w/ hyper violets..
Wouldn't recommend over 700mA per their recommendations..
No clue as to who or what specs the "turquoise" has..so same recommendation.


any pure blue/royal blue channels or blue/white should be fine based on the CREE diodes

Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)
Channel 2 - Royal Blue (base blue spectrum) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 3 - 3 XT-E Netural White and 2 XT-E Warm White (base white color) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 4 - Turquoise / CREE XPE2 Blue (enhanced color spectrum) (17.2V @ 700mA)
Channel 5 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)

Not sure "exactly" what puck you have..but downgrading drivers is more recommended than up...

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Yup, 700mA channels 1,3,4,5 and 1000mA channel2

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

One more simple question... if I plugin the power supply but not the apex with the leds fire in full, ot not at all?

 

[oreo57]

One more simple question... if I plugin the power supply but not the apex with the leds fire in full, ot not at all?

Depends on the board the drivers are on.
most have a 10k pull down resistor which is sort of a "safety" device in case of controller failure..

Unfortunately it means you need a controller..

BTW Apex is 10v analog. Ldd's are 5V PWM
so you also need a converter board ..

Your simple question really isn't that simple...

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

I already have a converter board that I wired into a project box with the ldd drivers. Wish I could post pics here

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

flickr

 

[oreo57]

flickr

nice implementation..

Answer though is not at all. no controller ..no lights..

IF the board has the pull down resistors..
Looks like the coralux LDD boards..

Pre-soldered 10K pull-down resistors on each channel

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Yes corallux boards...yeah I just wanted to test everything again, but the apex isn't running yet, nor do I have any clue how to program it

 

[oreo57]

Yes corallux boards...yeah I just wanted to test everything again, but the apex isn't running yet, nor do I have any clue how to program it

Well..Actually since you have the converter board it's sort of easy to test w/out the Apex..

Just put a 10V DC source where the Apex would be (for 100% on) or any < or = to 10v.
Advise using a stable power source so you don't exceed 10V.
don't forget to "common" the neg w/ the LED power supply (just the neg.)

If you have one of those Cheap Chinese DC/DC buck voltage regulators that are all over eek bay..all the better.

NOTE I NEVER did this. Theory is sound but any "itty bits" I'm not aware of..like current limiting the 10v feed..


Now you may understand why I "campaign" for jumpered boards like RapidLED's.


you can always cut or remove the 10K..

 

[frankv702]

Toss a 9v battery on the 0-10v adapter. That’ll fire the lights up to 90%.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

My 0-10V signal wires are cat5 wires though.. unless I open the box, then I can disconnect them one at a time I guess... or I could buy another cat5 female end and wire it to match the apex, essentially exactly the same as it is in the box, but leave the wires flying, then I could connect them to a battery or 5v wall wart.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

I more so wanted to test that I hooked the cat5 female couplers up right...I couldn't figure out what the little pictures of the coupler where trying to tell me...nor could i see the colors of the wires through head of connector... so what I did was take my multi meter (cheap piece of crap that doesn't have a continuity tester) hooked up a 9v battery to a wire, which I wedged into the eight different connections one the coupler, then took the COM and put it onthe battery, and then probed wires in the end of the coupler till it read 9v

 

[oreo57]

I more so wanted to test that I hooked the cat5 female couplers up right...I couldn't figure out what the little pictures of the coupler where trying to tell me...nor could i see the colors of the wires through head of connector... so what I did was take my multi meter (cheap piece of crap that doesn't have a continuity tester) hooked up a 9v battery to a wire, which I wedged into the eight different connections one the coupler, then took the COM and put it onthe battery, and then probed wires in the end of the coupler till it read 9v

Why didn't you just tap in at the push connectors on the 10v/PWM board?
Your board is different than the current one shown at Steves..sooo
Also can't say EXACTLY where but the PWM wire signal and LED power supply need to share "ground"..

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Why didn't you just tap in at the push connectors on the 10v/PWM board?
Your board is different than the current one shown at Steves..sooo
Also can't say EXACTLY where but the PWM wire signal and LED power supply need to share "ground"..

Wow....I totally miss read that the first 2-3 times you said it...I readththe Apex and power supply needed to share a ground...lol...yes the pwm board and both driver boards all share the same ground and power supply. I actually have a wall wart with selectable voltage (3,6,9,12) I guess as long as it isnt set to 12v I should be fine using it?