Quick Quarantine Tank Questions

[nuxx]

Hey guys,

Had a quick question about setting up two quarantine tanks for new fish in a rushed manner.

I have a 40 gallon breeder and 20 gallon long that I want to setup for fish I want to get in on Friday.

Planned to just fill the tanks completely with water from the display.

Then used MarinePure Ceramic Spheres in the filter of each tank. Tanks will also each have a HOB skimmer, heater, thermometer, pvc, ammonia badge, powerhead and a bubbler.

I have the following bacteria as well:
- Seachem Stability
- DF&S Live Nitrifying Bacteria
- MICROBE-LIFT Nite-Out II
- FritzZyme 9

I have some filter pads in the sump, but they've only been in there for a few days.

If I dose bacteria everyday starting today until Friday (when I want the fish), should there be pretty good biological filtration in place?

I would also continue dosing after the fish go in.

Thoughts?

 

[wooden_reefer]

What is the expected bioload? How many and how big will the fish for QT be?

 

[wooden_reefer]

The first thought is if there is a way to avoid the rush it should be avoided.

There must be a real compelling reason for such rush in setting up QT.

 

[nuxx]

What is the expected bioload? How many and how big will the fish for QT be?

3.5" Male Crosshatch Trigger, 3" Female Crosshatch Trigger and Cleaner Wrasse in the 40 gallon.

Flame Wrasse Pair, Potter's Angel and Cleaner Wrasse in the 20 gallon long.

The first thought is if there is a way to avoid the rush it should be avoided.

There must be a real compelling reason for such rush in setting up QT.

Yeah really small pair of Crosshatch Triggers came up. Also going on a trip in 7 or so weeks. Wanted to get QT done before going. If anything comes up and QT gets delayed, I have somebody that can look after the fish while we're gone.

 

[wooden_reefer]

In general, buying that special fish when one is not ready is a bad idea. Well, just think something even better might come when one is ready often helps mentally to overcome such urge.

One can cultivate absolutely enough bacteria at little cost if one has about 4 weeks.

But at least the expect bioload should be known to assess the feasibility even at the costs of packaged bacteria.

 

[nuxx]

In general, buying that special fish when one is not ready is a bad idea. Well, just think something even better might come when one is ready often helps mentally to overcome such urge.

One can cultivate absolutely enough bacteria at little cost if one has about 4 weeks.

But at least the expect bioload should be known to assess the feasibility even at the costs of packaged bacteria.

My current QT that is running right now, also a 40 gallon breeder was setup quickly as well.

Instead of using tank water, I used new water.

I had intended on doing tank transfer method, then using the 40 gallon for observation. Fish tended to hate the TTM method, so I abandoned it.

The 40 had only been setup about 6 days (dosing DF&S bacteria and 6 days of stability). I've had a large Lineatus Wrasse and 5 Lyretail Anthias in there for about 20 days now. Still very low to no ammonia.

Just wondering if 4-5 days would be enough using liquid bacteria. I don't mind using a ton of bacteria, already have it all and it's cheap compared to the fish.

All I'm really looking for is ammonia right? So if it starts creeping up, add more bacteria and do a water change? In a pinch use prime?

 

[wooden_reefer]

"Just wondering if 4-5 days would be enough using liquid bacteria. I don't mind using a ton of bacteria, already have it all and it's cheap compared to the fish."

Surer and almost free is to cultivate great abundance of bacteria in advance so that there will be no ammonia whatsoever (unless one has to use a drug that harms the bacteria).


At least you are willing to spend the money to buy enough packaged bacteria.

 

[DasCamel]

"Just wondering if 4-5 days would be enough using liquid bacteria. I don't mind using a ton of bacteria, already have it all and it's cheap compared to the fish."

Surer and almost free is to cultivate great abundance of bacteria in advance so that there will be no ammonia whatsoever (unless one has to use a drug that harms the bacteria).


At least you are willing to spend the money to buy enough packaged bacteria.

Have some Amquel or prime ready plus an ammonia badge. What you have setup won't handle the bioload especially factoring in feeding. Water changes will help also.

 

[wooden_reefer]

Have some Amquel or prime ready plus an ammonia badge. What you have setup won't handle the bioload especially factoring in feeding. Water changes will help also.

WC to rid water of ammonia is very wasteful and subjects fish to low levels of ammonia.

Amquel and Prime could interact with drugs.

I always just think that an even better chance will come after I am ready, so I don't have the urge to buy that special fish now.

 

[nuxx]

Doesn't adding more bacteria also lower ammonia?

 

[wooden_reefer]

Doesn't adding more bacteria also lower ammonia?

Yes, a few people here state that this actually works often.

It is a matter of costs and degree of certainty.

When there is an emergency, packaged bacteria is an option.

Cheaper and more certain is to cultivate bacteria in advance and to know by recent history of the cycle (or testing with an ammonia pulse) that the medium you have WILL handle all possible bioload. There is no need for any ammonia badge or WC (unless a drug that harms the bacteria has to be used).

 

[nuxx]

Yes, a few people here state that this actual works often.

It is a matter of costs and degree of certainty.

When there is an emergency, packaged bacteria is an option.

Cheaper and more certain is to cultivate bacteria in advance and to know by recent history of the cycle (or testing with an ammonia pulse) that the medium you have WILL handle all possible bioload. There is no need for any ammonia badge or WC (unless a drug that harms the bacteria has to be used).

Yeah I need to keep filter pads in the sump... just forget... actually just tossed one that had been in there for 2 months a couple of weeks ago...

 

[wooden_reefer]

Yeah I need to keep filter pads in the sump... just forget... actually just tossed one that had been in there for 2 months a couple of weeks ago...

Keeping filter pads in the sump of the DT per se does NOT cultivate great numbers of bacteria.

Sometimes this piggybacking method works. When the bioload planned for QT is very much lower than that in the DT, this method works often. Otherwise, it fails often, leading to calamity.

Medium for QT should be cycled deliberately in a separate container with levels of ammonia high enough to harm livestock applied many times.

A good compromise would be to use the piggyback method but the pads must have processed at least one strong pulse of ammonia independently in a separate container before use in QT; this boosting can be as short as 10 days.

 

[nuxx]

Keeping filter pads in the sump of the DT per se does NOT cultivate great numbers of bacteria.

Sometimes this piggybacking method works. When the bioload planned for QT is very much lower than that in the DT, this method works often. Otherwise, it fails often, leading to calamity.

Medium for QT should be cycled deliberately in a separate container with levels of ammonia high enough to harm livestock applied many times.

A good compromise would be to use the piggyback method but the pads must have processed at least one strong pulse of ammonia independently in a separate container before use in QT; this boosting can be as short as 10 days.

Thanks

My main QT always runs and has strong biological filtration... it's just being used right now

 

[firemountain]

Keeping filter pads in the sump of the DT per se does NOT cultivate great numbers of bacteria.

Sometimes this piggybacking method works. When the bioload planned for QT is very much lower than that in the DT, this method works often. Otherwise, it fails often, leading to calamity.

Medium for QT should be cycled deliberately in a separate container with levels of ammonia high enough to harm livestock applied many times.

A good compromise would be to use the piggyback method but the pads must have processed at least one strong pulse of ammonia independently in a separate container before use in QT; this boosting can be as short as 10 days.

When you refer to exposing your media to strong pulses of ammonia in a separate container, could you be more descriptive in the process. The reason I am asking is because I just started to seed a big sponge block in my sump. I am looking to buy a few new fish and want to put them through the TTM soon. The last TTM I did, I cut up 4 sections of a big seeded block, and used it in each tank transfer to handle ammonia, (which was then thrown out after each transfer) when I cleaned and sterilized my tank and equipment. I did still dose some prime, because my work schedule kept me away from the tank longer than I wanted to, and wanted to make sure no ammonia would be present.

Do you take the seeded sponge, place it in a 5 gallon bucket of salt water, with an air stone for surface agitation (is an air stone or powerhead even needed?), and dose straight ammonia multiple times over the course of a week or two? How long do you wait in between doses, and do you increase the strength as you dose?

Also.....are there any water changes taking place during this time frame? And....once you have achieved that bio load capability...how often do you have to feed it, so as not to loose it?

If you could supply some of us with your procedure for seeding a sponge in a 5 gallon bucket, it would be appreciated. Since sponges and buckets are cheap, I think a lot of guys here would/should utilize it.

I have never had a problem cycling a tank, but an accelerated procedure regiment would be a huge help for guys who need to have a seeded sponge (that could handle a big bioload) and have it readily available for an emergency would be a huge help.

Maybe a separate thread that could be turned into a sticky would be great.

 

[tassod]

When you refer to exposing your media to strong pulses of ammonia in a separate container, could you be more descriptive in the process. The reason I am asking is because I just started to seed a big sponge block in my sump. I am looking to buy a few new fish and want to put them through the TTM soon. The last TTM I did, I cut up 4 sections of a big seeded block, and used it in each tank transfer to handle ammonia, (which was then thrown out after each transfer) when I cleaned and sterilized my tank and equipment. I did still dose some prime, because my work schedule kept me away from the tank longer than I wanted to, and wanted to make sure no ammonia would be present.

Do you take the seeded sponge, place it in a 5 gallon bucket of salt water, with an air stone for surface agitation (is an air stone or powerhead even needed?), and dose straight ammonia multiple times over the course of a week or two? How long do you wait in between doses, and do you increase the strength as you dose?

Also.....are there any water changes taking place during this time frame? And....once you have achieved that bio load capability...how often do you have to feed it, so as not to loose it?

If you could supply some of us with your procedure for seeding a sponge in a 5 gallon bucket, it would be appreciated. Since sponges and buckets are cheap, I think a lot of guys here would/should utilize it.

I have never had a problem cycling a tank, but an accelerated procedure regiment would be a huge help for guys who need to have a seeded sponge (that could handle a big bioload) and have it readily available for an emergency would be a huge help.

Maybe a separate thread that could be turned into a sticky would be great.

+1 would love to know this as well.

 

[wooden_reefer]

For myself, I always cycle the medium for QT separately and deliberately in a separate container. NO compromise.

A good compromise is to boost the pads or sponges you have put in the DT sump for weeks.

If you use canister filter for QT, then you can just use a five-gal bucket 3/4 filled and put the intake and output into a bucket. The salinity has to match approximately. Put the pads into the chamber of the CF. Let it run to adjust the mechanicals for best aeration and circulation. Then finely chop up a small shrimps (more better) and put into the bucket.

You can elect to do no tests and just wait 10-14 days. It doesn't matter if not all the ammonia has been processed because the water in the bucket will not be included in the QT tank because you will be rinsing the medium with QT water. Of course you drain out the water in the CF before use in QT.

If you use a HOB power box filter for QT, you need a rectangular container; Walmart has them for a few bucks.

Nitrification bacteria do not die quickly due to lack of ammonia, but if you persistently feed with little ammonia for many weeks, then the population will shrink.

 

[nuxx]

Tanks have all been filled with display water.

Have the MarinePure Ceramic Spheres in both HOB filters. Have bout 175 gallons worth of spheres in the 40g and about 75 gallons worth of spheres in the 20 gallon.

Also added 3 large sponges that were in the display's sump for a week into the 40g and 2 sponges into the 20 gallon.

Dosed some DF&S bacteria into both, also some of the MICROBE-LIFT Nite-Out II. I'll then start with Stability tomorrow and also the FritzZyme 9. Then continue dosing Stability for 7 days.

If I see any ammonia I'll add more Nite-Out II or DF&S bacteria. If it gets out of control before I start with Cupramine, I'll use a little prime or amquel.

Also turned the heat up to around 82-84 in the tanks to help speed stuff along.

Plan on doing 10-25% water changes twice a week. Also will add a bit of bacteria after each change.

Hoping it'll be fine. Haven't seen any blips on the ammonia badges yet.