Quietest and energy efficient pump for basement sump

dtum

New member
My tank is on the main floor, the room where the sump will be is in the basement, 16 feet horizontal distance and 14 feet vertical.

What kind of return pump would I need to run water from the sump to the main tank. I don't need a high flow, just consistent.
 
I dont know what size tank you are dealing with but one of the panworld/iwakis as they are pressure rated for that. Another option would be a reeflo blowhole of whichever size best fits your needs.
 
Quietest and most energy efficient will be a Reeflo. Most reliable but with the most heat transfer will be an Iwaki. The downside to the Iwaki is the likely need for a chiller due to heat transfer, it's power consumption (they are highly inefficient) and noise. That said, the Iwaki's will run forever.

If it were me, I'd go with a Reeflo Hammerhead Gold plumbed with 2" PVC lines to reducee head pressure between the pump and the tank. You could reduce it to 1.5" at the tank or even split it into a pair of 1" lines at the tank like I do. The nice thing about the Reeflo's is that you can gate them down with a valve to reduce the flow and they become even more efficient. They are also one of the quietest pumps in their class and will not transfer much heat into your system.

Regardless of the pump you use, I'd strongly suggest keeping a spare pump on hand. I keep spares of any vital equipment from Apex brains to Reeflo pumps with unions installed so I can swap a pump in less than 3 minutes if I need to. You can never be too prepared when it comes to the life support for your tank!
 
Agrred a hammerhead would be my first pick as well just without knowing anything of the size tank we are dealing with I hesitated to recommend such a large pump. A hammerhead is what i run.
 
Wow, really appreciate all the feedback.

The tank will be a 225 gallon on the main floor.
Overflow will be Herbie: 2 1.5'' drains and 1 1'' return with a sea-swirl or vortex moceanic.
 
I am doing a similar build. 110 on the main and basement equipment room. 20 horizontal and 14 ft vertical. I did a trident 2700 (newer version of blowhole) and 1.5" return. 2 1" drains on a herbie.
 
#1 is the pain in the butt seals that Reeflo uses around their motor shaft. They are only good for so long then have to be replaced. The last time the seals went out it leaked electricity in to the tank and smoked about $1500 in coral.

The PanWorld is more like a standard mag drive pump. No motor shaft seals, the only seal to really worry about is the housing seal. The only down side is that if the pump is gummy/dirty on the inside, they can be harder to get restarted. I rarely have that problem though.

Overall the design of the panworld pump is a little more friendly to the every day user in my opinion. The run on my system is pretty close to your vertical and horizontal distances, a PS-200 runs my entire system, plus reactors and 2 frag tanks pretty easily.
 
Overall the design of the panworld pump is a little more friendly to the every day user in my opinion. The run on my system is pretty close to your vertical and horizontal distances, a PS-200 runs my entire system, plus reactors and 2 frag tanks pretty easily.

Thank you for this explanation. How do you find the sound/noise factor and also energy consumption?
 
Get an amp master. Same power as a Reeflo, but you won't need to replace the seals, motor or bearings in a few years. I have never had a Reeflo last more than 2 years without needing something, but I have had AmpMasters last for 10+.

I have a Diablo DC 10500 that will currently do 15 feet of head, but the output is probably around 1200 GPH (guessing) at about 89 watts (kill-a-watt tested). Nice pump, but if I had a few more feet of head, then I don't know how it would react. Also, we have no idea about the reliability... I can update in 5+ years.
 
Thank you for this explanation. How do you find the sound/noise factor and also energy consumption?


Noise factor I find it quieter......and mine could be even better if I would spend some time on my mounting method. Energy consumption I don't care about as they are rated similar, so I never took the time to put a kill-a-watt on them and measure. Peace of mind is good enough for me when it's the life blood of my system.
 
Get an amp master. Same power as a Reeflo, but you won't need to replace the seals, motor or bearings in a few years. I have never had a Reeflo last more than 2 years without needing something, but I have had AmpMasters last for 10+.

Wow. That deviates from everything I had heard before on Ampmasters!!! All I had heard was leak, leak, leak!
 
If efficiency is a concern and you want to get somewhere near your targeted flow rate you will have to use a larger return line. 1.5" is a minimum but 2" would be much better. Incorporating DWV fittings will also reduce losses due to friction compared to the standard schedule 40.
 
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I just plumbed in a Reeflo Trident 2 nights ago to replace an Iwaki MD100RLT and pending reliability, I couldn't be happier! Only slighly less flow uising almost 1 amp less electricity and it is DEAD silent. The Iwaki I could hear LOUDLY in my basement living room through 2" foam and drywall. I can't even here the Trident when I am standing next to it. I will never knock Iwaki because, other than noise, they are the absolute best pumps I have ever used. If noise it not an issue, go Iwaki. If you want something that is basically silent, I would give the Reeflo Trident a try. It runs MUCH cooler than the previous Blowhole model and I much prefer the plastic housing compared to the Blowhole's stainless steel.

I will be creating a thread documenting my switch and the drastically decreased noise level. I will post an update here when I do.

Don
 
I use a Reeflo Hammerhead for very similar setup.

IF you get a Reeflo, you MUST:
1) also purchase an extra saltwater seal and be prepared to replace it anywhere after 6months, normally 12-15 months. And immediately order a new seal when you replace the old one.

2) have a spare, either Reeflo or Iwaki, fitted to be plumbed in immediately as Slief says. Because you will need it when seal goes.

3) regardless, use true union ball valves so that you can swap easily.
 
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