Randy's new 120 gallon Reef

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9014816#post9014816 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yraveh
Hi,
I was reading your article "CHEMISTRY AND THE AQUARIUM "
It is excellent! it has clarified a lot of confusion for me.
thank you.

please allow me a few questions/comments
1. at the section "Step by Step Acidification" you included H2co3 as a proton acceptor (although a minor one, in black coloring). It is however identical to adding CO2 which does not change alkalinity!
2. In medicine we use the term buffer (in blood) which is exactly identical to "alkalinity" but less confusing. isn't "alkalinity a misnomer"
3. In blood chemistry we measure the "base deficit" or base excess. That would have been the most practical terms to use in reef
4. I am puzzled about the frequent warning not to use distilled water to compensate for evaporatory loss. Why not? if you loose water >>why not correct with water?

thank you
Click to expand...

yraveh,
As boxfishpooalot said this thread is for his tank setup.
That is why I asked him that his 120 and the others tanks he said has his on one system.Asking if he has any problems.

You need to post a new thread about so he answers you on this CHEMISTRY AND THE AQUARIUM. Just being helpful here.
 
The way you have all your tanks on one system is that better?

Its easier in the sense of one skimmer, one auto top off, one set of chemistry issues, one heating system, one cooling system, etc.

It would be bad if a disaster in one spread to the others, but I've not had such an issue yet. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9021666#post9021666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
The way you have all your tanks on one system is that better?

Its easier in the sense of one skimmer, one auto top off, one set of chemistry issues, one heating system, one cooling system, etc.

It would be bad if a disaster in one spread to the others, but I've not had such an issue yet. :D
Click to expand...

Randy,
Yes I see and save money with double system and cut down on power.
What plumbing did you use from upstairs to down to the basement and the other hookups?
flex pvc,solid pvc or something else?
Also is there for the refugium a size chart to tank system?
As I have X system of this size to get it to work right the refugium should be Y size to handle the load?
 
Nice tank Randy!

Nice tank Randy!

Love the walnut, looks classy! I have a question for you...This is about reactor media. I am using ARM right now, and always having to add Mg. Does a media exist that replenishes more than just Ca & Alk, or am I just going to have to add Mg & Sr every other day?
:beer:
 
Thanks. I see you posted the media question in another thread. :)


What plumbing did you use from upstairs to down to the basement and the other hookups?

I used a combination of rigid PVC and tygon type flexible tubing in both directions.

Also is there for the refugium a size chart to tank system?

Yes. It says, bigger is better. :D

Seriously, I do not know of such a table, and the primary reason that folks do not succeed in adequately dropping nutrients or preventing problem algae with growing macroalgae is the do not have enough space/light, IMO.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9043618#post9043618 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
Thanks. I see you posted the media question in another thread. :)


What plumbing did you use from upstairs to down to the basement and the other hookups?

I used a combination of rigid PVC and tygon type flexible tubing in both directions.

Also is there for the refugium a size chart to tank system?[?B]

Yes. It says, bigger is better. :D

Seriously, I do not know of such a table, and the primary reason that folks do not succeed in adequately dropping nutrients or preventing problem algae with growing macroalgae is the do not have enough space/light, IMO.
Click to expand...


Randy,
Thank you
 
Just a little update.

Cyano has started to be a problem in one of the refugia, and the skimmer was barely sucking air. Apparently, the air intakes were clogged with salt, and the skimmer pump (an Iwaki 55 RLT) itself had parts of the impeller clogged. On cleaning it all out, the skimmer was working a ton better. Hopefully the cyano will retreat.

I just replaced the 2 original 250 w XM 10k bulbs. They'd been in for about 15 months. The new ones are clearly brighter.
 
I had that problem with my venturi getting plugged. It was every 3 days I had to clean it out. But what I did to totally prevent it was run the air intake line to a breather hole inside the skimmer cup. This way it sucks in air thats nearly 100% humid wich dissolved the solid salt creep. Now its been a month without cleaning and still works. My pump got clogged on my old becket skimmer too but full of snails...

Do you have an airline hose that you could run to the skimmer cup to get it to suck in humid air? This would stop it from getting clogged.
 
I think the problem was the reduced air intake caused by reduced water flow, which caused water to back up into it and dry out. You're right that an air pump might help, but I'd like to avoid that. :)
 
Air pump? No I mean on your skimmer the air intake where air sucks into the downdraft area, attach an airline tube to it and then let it draw air from inside the skimmer cup. The air inside there is very humid and prevents salt creep. Your skimmer draws air inside from that tower thing right, not the pump?

But I think your problem was just reduced pressure from the pump not working. How do you like downdraft desighn? My old skimmer with a beckett injector always got clogged with caulerpa bulbs and chaeto. My reason for a needle wheel skimmer now. I hear downdrafts(your etss) are not effected so much by solid particles. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9215549#post9215549 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by boxfishpooalot
Air pump? No I mean on your skimmer the air intake where air sucks into the downdraft area, attach an airline tube to it and then let it draw air from inside the skimmer cup. The air inside there is very humid and prevents salt creep. Your skimmer draws air inside from that tower thing right, not the pump?

But I think your problem was just reduced pressure from the pump not working. How do you like downdraft desighn? My old skimmer with a beckett injector always got clogged with caulerpa bulbs and chaeto. My reason for a needle wheel skimmer now. I hear downdrafts(your etss) are not effected so much by solid particles. :)
Click to expand...

Boxfishpooalot,
How does it look as to where you put that air line if you do not watch if the cup goes full up it will suck the skimmate back in the pump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9212683#post9212683 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
Just a little update.

Cyano has started to be a problem in one of the refugia, and the skimmer was barely sucking air. Apparently, the air intakes were clogged with salt, and the skimmer pump (an Iwaki 55 RLT) itself had parts of the impeller clogged. On cleaning it all out, the skimmer was working a ton better. Hopefully the cyano will retreat.

I just replaced the 2 original 250 w XM 10k bulbs. They'd been in for about 15 months. The new ones are clearly brighter.
Click to expand...

Randy,
Where do you get the XM 10k from?
 
Air pump? No I mean on your skimmer the air intake where air sucks into the downdraft area, attach an airline tube to it and then let it draw air from inside the skimmer cup.

My skimmer cup often has foam filling it, and I wouldn't want to suck that back in.

The downdraft design is likely OK, but may not be as efficient as needle wheels.


Randy,
Where do you get the XM 10k from?[/]

Marine Depot, IIRC.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9220005#post9220005 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
Air pump? No I mean on your skimmer the air intake where air sucks into the downdraft area, attach an airline tube to it and then let it draw air from inside the skimmer cup.

My skimmer cup often has foam filling it, and I wouldn't want to suck that back in.

The downdraft design is likely OK, but may not be as efficient as needle wheels.


Randy,
Where do you get the XM 10k from?[/]

Marine Depot, IIRC.
Click to expand...


thank you for bulb info.
 
hey randy you mentioned about using the brute cans,but i dont understand how you have them plumbed to not overflow. I dont know if you wrote exactly how and maybe i missed it. Is there anywhere you can point me to thats shows such an example?
 
I cut a hole in the side of each can, about 18 inches down, and used two bulkhead fittings with a section of 2" (maybe 3") PVC pipe to connect them. It is about 8 inches long.
 
I hope i dont bother with two more small questions....So water dumps into the first can,and a pump inside the second can pumps out water that comes in via PVC,correct? (if correct) Whats the water level for can 1 & 2? Thank you for the replies.Also Im really interested if you have any update?

Im sorry i was born/raised in Lawrence,ma. I have a habit of not understanding. (Ima also put that in my signature.lol.)
 
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