northbay-reefer
New member
Finally got all the LEDS glued to the 72" heat sink. I alternate blue and royal blue.
here are the close ups:
here are the close ups:
Rapid LED
- Thread starter northbay-reefer
- Start date
northbay-reefer
New member
It is going to the front replacing the T5, I am still keeping the VHOs.
northbay-reefer
New member
Nope I am going all in ��
northbay-reefer
New member
By the way, what is tin test?
Testing and tinning are two different things. Usually you would test each LED to make sure it's not damaged before gluing it to the heat sink. You can do that with a AA battery tester.
Additionally, you'd usually pre tin the solder pads on the LEDs so that in case you made a mistake and shorted/broke an LED you wouldn't have to pry it off the heatsink to put on a replacement. I recommend pre-tinning all your wires and solder pads.
Additionally, you'd usually pre tin the solder pads on the LEDs so that in case you made a mistake and shorted/broke an LED you wouldn't have to pry it off the heatsink to put on a replacement. I recommend pre-tinning all your wires and solder pads.
zeroinverse
New member
Confused by Lucas comment about tinning. If an Led broke, you'd still have to pry LED "star" off the your main heatsink.
Tinning would just make it easier to remove the soldering wires so you can put on a replacement LED, right?
Or am I missing something about tinning the back of the "star" heatsink before you epoxy it onto your "main" heatsink?
northbay-reefer
New member
Ok, so tin test is pre tin and LED test. I cut and stripped all of the wires and is in the process of pretining it. The soldering should be done hopefully tonight if I get time to work on it.
northbay-reefer
New member
The best and easiest way to test the LEDs is to use a volt meter and switch it to diod mode. This mode will send a small voltage to the leads and using the possitive and negative leads of the meter to apply the voltage to the LEDS. If the LEDS turns on then it is good.
All the LEDS tested good and the soldering is done. Tomorrow I'll connect the drivers and voila
.
All the LEDS tested good and the soldering is done. Tomorrow I'll connect the drivers and voila
.You don't tin the back of the LED, just the solder pads.
My suggestion is to test each LED for functionality and additionally to tin the pads you plan on using before gluing to the heat sink. If you don't, you're just running the annoying risk of having to pry off, re order, and replace any LEDs that are broken. Additionally, it's easier to tin on a surface that you can rest your hands on easily. The heat sink with LEDs mounted is not a forgiving work surface.
Long story short, test all your LEDs and tin them before mounting, lest you break one in the wiring process or had a faulty one to begin with and have to do a lot of work over again.
northbay-reefer
New member
I only tin the LED connection, not the wire and then use a tweezer hold the little wire and solder it in place. The connections are solid. The trick is keep a wet sponge and keep the soldering iron tip clean at all time. I'll post pix soon.
northbay-reefer
New member
OMG those LEDs are so freaking bright. I almost go blind.
northbay-reefer
New member
Installed the light and it is looking Awesome. Ill try to take pictures when the tank tour reach Windsor
