Rasta growth

IME, some zoas just take a long time to adjust and settle in to a tank, even if the parameters are "ideal". It doesn't even seem to make a difference if a frag is wild collected or propagated in someones system. I have gotten newly collected zoas from the LFS that have adjusted and started growing new polyps right away and I have had some that have taken 6 months to grow a bud.
The rastas I had (before they got broken loose and pushed into a torch by an evil snail) acted very healthy as far as opening/closing, but only grew 2 new polyps in about 4 months.
I guess if they grew like weeds lots more people would have them and they would be a lot less expensive, eh?
 
Temp - 82F
Alk. 9.8
mag. 1400
Cal. 420
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
Amm. - 0
Your temp is a bit high IMO, as stated before, you can get away with it, but ideally, I would say 78-80 would be better. Also your magnesium is a bit high. Everything else looks good :)
pH - 7.8
Salinity - 1.026
I add Vit. C. Dose Cal, Alk, and Mag when I need too. I also add Iodide and strontium. For iodide and strontium, I dose weekly and do as the bottle instructs.
PH is a BIG deal IME, do you have a cover on your tank? Run the intake for your skimmer to outside of the house. This can help with large PH swings, oxygenate the water better, and keep your tank more stable. If you don't have a sump, I would suggest you try and get one for your tank. Also, I didn't see a test for strontium or iodine, are you monitoring those levels while you are dosing? If not, that could be a problem. I would either stop dosing, or get a test kit to make sure I wasn't over doing it. Even following the label instructions, if there isn't anything taking up the chemicals you are adding, they are just building up every time you dose.

The flow - From HOB skimmer and HOB filter + 2 mp10s set on RC mode running at 80% max and turned down to about 50% max at night.
Flow looks good, but again, I'd invest in a sump if possible. I also use some chinese LED fixtures on a couple of my frag tanks, and I can say, mine are cranked up to 100% on blue and white and zoanthids grow like mad. I don't have any rastas, but there are some that others have had trouble growing quickly (PPE, RPE) and they are putting on polyps seems like every time I look closely.

And, I'm sure others have and will say this. Some zoanthids just don't grow. Or they do great and die for no reason one day. Just make sure you keep up with water changes and keep your params in check. I typically do 20% every two weeks for the DTs I maintain, and 10% twice a week for my frag tanks.

I would say try and get your PH to be more stable around 8.2 or so, stop dosing or get test kits, and increase the intensity of your lights and see what happens.

Happy Reefing! :)
 
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I wouldn't change T5s for any china LED system.
To tell the truth I wouldn't change T5s for any LEDs in the market today.
Not yet!

Try to bring your pH up a little, around 8.2.
Temp. at about 7.9° - 80° works better for me.
8.2 is still fine, but not the ideal in the long run.

I don't know until when people will bring up the empty statement about "dirty water" for zoas. With al the respect!
Make sure you do maintenance including water changes and keep a good skimmer running!!

Target feeding is far better and the right way to do it.
I've heard very nice comments about the Reef Chili!

Grandis.


+1

basically like many corals zoanthids need zero phosphates so running gfo or some other phosphate remover is critical.

regardless of what some people think smaller zoos benefit from feedings , whether they take the large pieces or not. their ability to capture prey is pretty nil but they get tiny amounts of food particles through their mouth 24/7

feeding your tank heavily while controlling nitrates and targeting them around 10ppm i have found promotes tremendous growth , if your skimming hard while running a ats , you will actually have to increase your feedings to keep your nitrates up.

the dirty water thing gets thrown out of context alot , feeding doesnt mean dirty water , having nutrients doesnt mean having dirty water.... if you put the right kind of system together you can feed mass amounts to healthy system and still keep consistent water quality.


corals like zoanthids do not benefit from swings in nitrates, if you constantly go from high to low they will not adjust properly and will inhibit growth, zoanthids like consistency , so gfo keeps the phos consistently, i find a heavy skimmer gets rid of the larger food particles and a ats will demolish your excess nutrients.


what your frag is on also helps, imo (as a person who has propagated /grown zoanthids for many years) having a flat surface that is mature(left in tank for a while) gets them to spread fast. rubble,lr or anything with gaps forces the mats to grow down and up where as a flat surfaace is straight forward.


i do believe that vit c dosing is beneficial if it is consistently dosed.


alot of people , myself included, believe fragging or shocking the coral(nip with scissors) can promote growth.


regular dips in coral RX does wonders as well:)

another thing is if its growth your after leave it alone , like a plant if you up root it and change its location constantly or pick at the polyps its going to be ****ed , some can handle it more than others.


heres the kicker......its a vast species so its normal for most types to do well and some not, with time you learn what certain types need.



hth

I guess if they grew like weeds lots more people would have them and they would be a lot less expensive, eh?

not necessarily, if its high end colonies rarely make it past 20-30polyps ,so when a single polyp frag gets sold it takes some time to grow it to 10 polyps...no one wanst to sell their full 10 polyps so they offer out single or double polyp frags. this vicious circle is what keeps alot of these from being accessible, we have to wait for the growth to catch up with the hype......


lets say your single polyp frag sells to me for $40(high) i keep it for 2 mths and grow it to 6...i make 3 double polyp frags and send them out to either friends or people wanting or dying for this "flavor"

the colonies are never getting a chance to grow out , if you include the ones that die and the ones that never get parted with its a slow process to get things passed around.


so actually alot of the rarest stuff and nicest stuff grows super fast, i grew a colonie of darth mauls from 10 polyps to 200+ in 6mths, my candy aples and alot of other palys grow 30 polyps monthly;)
 
Some good news and bad news. I moved the rastas down to about 3" off the sand bed on a frag rack and it has a new single baby polyp coming out!! after 2 months finally growth! Bad news, now they aren't open as much, maybe 3/4 open. I stopped dosing iodide and strontium since I don't have a test kit to see my levels. I am still dosing vitamin C though. They were completely open when they were sitting a little higher. Maybe it was from me moving them around to the frag yet that they aren't opening completely right now?
 
With zero phosphates there would be no life... Also, I've only seen phosphate to be a limiting factor in zoanthid growth by means of algae growth which will inhibit reproduction of zoanthids. Beyond that, when phosphate is talked about in regards to inhibiting coral growth, it's usually in regards to its ability to inhibit calcification, which is not a factor with zoanthids. In fact I have witnessed explosive growth of zoanthids in tanks with quite high levels of phosphate (over 2ppm in many cases). I find it quite peculiar that you act as if phosphate is the great limiting factor, but then act as if nitrate is something that will encourage growth. Both of those are required to be present for growth to take place, but in both instances we don't have test kits accurate enough to measure the small amounts that need be present. Dipping too low on either (below test kit detection levels) could limit growth, but I've never witnessed the presence of either limit the growth of zoanthids in general.

In regards to feeding, there are actually studies showing how highly autotrophic some zoanthids can be. So, to make the statement that "they get tiny amounts of food through their mouth 24/7" without any real basis is quite presumptuous. As far as zoanthids go, I would suspect "rastas" to be among the more autotrophic in the hobby, but that's purely a somewhat educated guess and based on the fact that they exhibit no prey capture.

Also, your statement about nitrates and the stability of nitrates is quite puzzling. The toxicity of nitrates has been overblown by quite a bit through the years, but I don't think I've ever seen anything on the stability of nitrates being a limiting factor in growth. In fact stability of various things is something that is often overblown in the hobby, but I've nitrate stability being important brought up before. So, I'm not even sure what to make of this statement and am wondering what the basis is there.

After that you do into talk of dipping and snipping or fragging corals to promote growth, but then a short time later mention you need to "leave it alone". I kinda know where you're coming from with that, and all zoanthids can be a little different, but there's a lot of contradiction there.

Why so much confidence in things with little to no scientific basis, yet so quick to shoot down information that does relate to something that actually has peer reviewed scientific studies to back it up?

I hate to pick on you a little, but it's posts like yours that can make it frustrating to be a part of these forums.

Just a general rant since I'm on a roll... and I probably won't make many friends with this statement, but I don't seem to do that much in general when I post in this forum and why I generally tend to stay away. The zoanthid forum and side of the hobby seems to have the biggest use of conjecture and generally either can't get the genus of their inhabitants correct, or don't care enough to do so. Sadly, the same person that insists on calling some pretty clearly a zoanthus species a "paly" will fight to the death over if something is a "true" red devil eater or not. I get the usefulness of the names and am not fully against them and use them myself, but it's really too bad that it seems many have lost sight over what it is we're really keeping. It seems a whole new generation of reefers looks at reefing more like collecting pokemon cards rather than gardening or something with more scientific roots.

Sorry guys, I feel better now. :wave: Let me have it... :angryfire:

P.S. Does anyone have some space monster palys for trade or sale?! Just kidding, sort of ;)


+1

basically like many corals zoanthids need zero phosphates so running gfo or some other phosphate remover is critical.

regardless of what some people think smaller zoos benefit from feedings , whether they take the large pieces or not. their ability to capture prey is pretty nil but they get tiny amounts of food particles through their mouth 24/7

feeding your tank heavily while controlling nitrates and targeting them around 10ppm i have found promotes tremendous growth , if your skimming hard while running a ats , you will actually have to increase your feedings to keep your nitrates up.

the dirty water thing gets thrown out of context alot , feeding doesnt mean dirty water , having nutrients doesnt mean having dirty water.... if you put the right kind of system together you can feed mass amounts to healthy system and still keep consistent water quality.


corals like zoanthids do not benefit from swings in nitrates, if you constantly go from high to low they will not adjust properly and will inhibit growth, zoanthids like consistency , so gfo keeps the phos consistently, i find a heavy skimmer gets rid of the larger food particles and a ats will demolish your excess nutrients.


what your frag is on also helps, imo (as a person who has propagated /grown zoanthids for many years) having a flat surface that is mature(left in tank for a while) gets them to spread fast. rubble,lr or anything with gaps forces the mats to grow down and up where as a flat surfaace is straight forward.


i do believe that vit c dosing is beneficial if it is consistently dosed.


alot of people , myself included, believe fragging or shocking the coral(nip with scissors) can promote growth.


regular dips in coral RX does wonders as well:)

another thing is if its growth your after leave it alone , like a plant if you up root it and change its location constantly or pick at the polyps its going to be ****ed , some can handle it more than others.


heres the kicker......its a vast species so its normal for most types to do well and some not, with time you learn what certain types need.



hth



not necessarily, if its high end colonies rarely make it past 20-30polyps ,so when a single polyp frag gets sold it takes some time to grow it to 10 polyps...no one wanst to sell their full 10 polyps so they offer out single or double polyp frags. this vicious circle is what keeps alot of these from being accessible, we have to wait for the growth to catch up with the hype......


lets say your single polyp frag sells to me for $40(high) i keep it for 2 mths and grow it to 6...i make 3 double polyp frags and send them out to either friends or people wanting or dying for this "flavor"

the colonies are never getting a chance to grow out , if you include the ones that die and the ones that never get parted with its a slow process to get things passed around.


so actually alot of the rarest stuff and nicest stuff grows super fast, i grew a colonie of darth mauls from 10 polyps to 200+ in 6mths, my candy aples and alot of other palys grow 30 polyps monthly;)
 
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I woulda sent ya some Peter but my large colony took a massive SHIIIITE went my tank crashed. I woulda sent to you for free bud.
 
With zero phosphates there would be no life...this was meant from a testing point of view,even the best of tests will not give you aguaranteed reading




Also, I've only seen phosphate to be a limiting factor in zoanthid growth by means of algae growth which will inhibit reproduction of zoanthids.this is what i was refering to, its the film algae that will stop them from opening



Beyond that, when phosphate is talked about in regards to inhibiting coral growth, it's usually in regards to its ability to inhibit calcification, which is not a factor with zoanthids. see above comment


In fact I have witnessed explosive growth of zoanthids in tanks with quite high levels of phosphate (over 2ppm in many cases). i have seen them die in this, so, both our opinions i guess unless you have some scientific proof they will all live in that high of phosphate, and im curious what was the long term success of this??


I find it quite peculiar that you act as if phosphate is the great limiting factor, but then act as if nitrate is something that will encourage growth.
i clearly said this to be what ive found, in my post ,as mosty of what your saying is??

Both of those are required to be present for growth to take place, but in both instances we don't have test kits accurate enough to measure the small amounts that need be present.


Dipping too low on either (below test kit detection levels) could limit growth, but I've never witnessed the presence of either limit the growth of zoanthids in general. again, like i said , your taking the zero phosphate as a literal term when theres always going to be phosphates, i was merely saying to run a reactor to keep phosphates in check

In regards to feeding, there are actually studies showing how highly autotrophic some zoanthids can be. So, to make the statement that "they get tiny amounts of food through their mouth 24/7" without any real basis is quite presumptuous.hers a quote from Advanced aquarist:

Zoanthus spp. do not need to be fed directly, since they obtain much of their nutritional requirements from their symbiotic zooxanthellae. They must therefore be provided with adequate illumination to thrive. They also ingest dissolved organic substances from the water, as well as fine particulate matter. Some species do not take large particles of food, while others do take and eat such things as flake food, blackworms, shrimp, and sea urchin eggs. Regular feeding promotes rapid growth.



this is the link:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/2/inverts


As far as zoanthids go, I would suspect "rastas" to be among the more autotrophic in the hobby, but that's purely a somewhat educated guess and based on the fact that they exhibit no prey capture. in my 10yrs of zoanthids and feedings i believe they do. so in short your saying if theres no feeding response to capture the prey theres no possibilitie what so ever of them feeding right??

Also, your statement about nitrates and the stability of nitrates is quite puzzling. The toxicity of nitrates has been overblown by quite a bit through the years, but I don't think I've ever seen anything on the stability of nitrates being a limiting factor in growth. In fact stability of various things is something that is often overblown in the hobby, but I've nitrate stability being important brought up before. So, I'm not even sure what to make of this statement and am wondering what the basis is there.
you missed the part about how i said i find , not i have proof , these are just that... what ive found, do you have proof that says the opposite?? or is this also what you have found??



After that you do into talk of dipping and snipping or fragging corals to promote growth, but then a short time later mention you need to "leave it alone". I kinda know where you're coming from with that, and all zoanthids can be a little different, but there's a lot of contradiction there. yup , and i still stand by it , ive found for many , ill admit def not all, that fragging and snipping CAN start a growth spurt, if your looking for scientific proof i have none ,again this is what ive found in my years of doing this.



Why so much confidence in things with little to no scientific basis, yet so quick to shoot down information that does relate to something that actually has peer reviewed scientific studies to back it up? and what exactly did i shoot down i dont recall shooting anyones ideas down , perhaps youd like to quote that part for me??

I hate to pick on you a little, but it's posts like yours that can make it frustrating to be a part of these forums. its people like you who keep people from me coming to RC , people with very little respect to others opions...again opinions!!

Just a general rant since I'm on a roll... and I probably won't make many friends with this statement, but I don't seem to do that much in general when I post in this forum and why I generally tend to stay away.believe it or not i can see that


The zoanthid forum and side of the hobby seems to have the biggest use of conjecture and generally either can't get the genus of their inhabitants correct, or don't care enough to do so. Sadly, the same person that insists on calling some pretty clearly a zoanthus species a "paly" will fight to the death over if something is a "true" red devil eater or not.i dont see what this has to do with my answer or the op's question , if you want to start a thread on "the way names should be" then do so , i have no interest in zoo names, in fact i have over 150 types including palythoas, the only ones i know the names for are the ones that came with names.


I get the usefulness of the names and am not fully against them and use them myself, but it's really too bad that it seems many have lost sight over what it is we're really keeping.i cant tell what you mean anymore i think you gave up at this point???


It seems a whole new generation of reefers looks at reefing more like collecting pokemon cards rather than gardening or something with more scientific roots.and sps does not , right?? cause there arnt hard core sps collectors out there naming and buying things frequently aand looking for the next "flavor"....




Sorry guys, I feel better now. :wave: Let me have it... :angryfire:that should about cover it:P

P.S. Does anyone have some space monster palys for trade or sale?! Just kidding, sort of ;)

i would also give you a free frag just to show no hard feelings:)


cheers mate:)
 
Reefwars you should post in your primary name, guessing your response you have another account??? if not then my bad..and im wrong
for some reason I have a feeling you do:rolleyes:
 
Reefwars you should post in your primary name, guessing your response you have another account??? if not then my bad..and im wrong
for some reason I have a feeling you do:rolleyes:


hey charles, no this is my only id , i live in canada so reefcentral is just somewhere i drop in from time to time, up untill last week i had no posts just been watching:)

i actually only started posting on RC because i have my bonzai tree nano posted in the nano forumns , being an avid zoo mongrel i do like the zoanthid forumns .


to the above poster i mean no disrespect i was simply offering my advice and my own findings, for a guy who does not know me or my background you came off rude , i understand there are alot of people on this site so things can get frustrations but i in no way attacked you, or the op or anyones ideas , i simply stated what ive found:(

i def was not trying to say in my origional post that i have scientific or a biology background , ive been reefing for just over 10yrs,and most of what i know i had to learn my self through trial and error, i have not been on a computer for reefing untill a few years ago.

again my apolgies to anyone i may have offended, that was not my intention:)




cheers gang:)
 
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