RBTA split

S

stevestank

New member
Hey everyone,

I had a huge beautiful RBTA. He went behind the rocks to split a couple weeks ago. What emerged was one large RBTA and a pathetic looking deflated ball of red stringy mess that didn't survive. I wonder why this happened. I checked all my parameters and everything is OK. The only thing I don't like about my params are temp swings between 77 and 80 degrees over 8 hour period and PH swings between 7.8 and 8.2 depending on the photoperiod. I do drip Kalk to try to equalize it. Wonder what happened? tried to feed the little RBTA but to no avail. I have a few shrimp that seem to get in there and steal the chopped shrimp I offer. Anyone ever diagnose a problem with one split doing great and another falling apart in 3 days?

Steve
 
I know exactly what you are talking about , I had the same thing happen to me, except the one that survived is now stunted and wont grow . all of my others are doing fine. I dont understand it either.
 
params

params

Bond,

Which swings are big? 77 to 80 degrees over an 8 hour period, or the PH. I can install a fan to try to equalize the temp swing. I suppose I'd have to bite the bullet and buy all sorts of equipment to solve the PH swing puzzle. Any suggestions?
 
I have battled pH swings myself. IMO, you don't need additional equipment. Your best bet is to drip kalk continuously rather than try to combat it symptomatically. What will happen is you will drive the high end higher without solving the issue. High CO2 levels in the winter can drive pH down. Another thing to look at is your Mg levels. It will be hard to elevate to raise and stabilize your alkalinty if Mg is low.
 
An accurate temp controller (Ranco, ect) may help, if you get the dual version you can set heater and fan.

Continuous Kalk additions would be beneficial or Reverse Photoperiod refugium
 
kalk

kalk

Thanks fellas.

I positioned my fan to cool the water better and set up a timer to coincide with my MH lighting (the culprit). I also extended my photoperiod in my sump with macro to try to smooth out the PH swing.

I use a 1 gallon reptile dripper with a built in valve to drip Kalk. I pour 1 gallon RO water over 2 tablespoons of kalkwasser powder, shake, let it settle for an hour, and open the valve. The calcerous water moves through an IV drip I got with a 5 finger discount from the hospital. This works well. However, it's sort of laborious and one gallon a day isn't enough.

Can one of you guys maybe suggest some sort of timer/kalkwasser stirrer/reactor DIY link or perhaps tell your success story with your kalk set-up. The aim is to keep PH at 8.1 to 8.3.

I have never tested for Mg. I do a 5 gallon water change every week in a 125 tank. Could it be my Mg is low? My lfs says "don't worry about it. Do your water changes. It's in the bag."

Steve
 
IMO a commercially built (new or used) Kalk reactor is essential to a reef tank.

In combination with a dosing pump and/or float valves makes for an elegant way to top off your tank.

Your LFS prolly does not know what they are talking about :)
 
Andy,
Do you feel there is a drawback to manually mixing kalk for top off? Randy claims manually dosing even from large containers sitting for several weeks is just as effective as a reactor.


I'm just curious if you have a theory. I can't argue with the results you are having. :)
 
I agree with Andy as I think the ease of use of a reactor is a clear benefit. However, I think a lot of people have success manually dripping. IMO, the biggest single drawback to a drip system is the possibility of error and under/overdosing. Each time you mix, you have to make sure of the drip rate, etc.

There has been significant debate over whether mixing of the kalk is essential as several claim that Randy's method of letting it sit in a container works equally as well. Personally, I am partial to a reactor, either DIY or commercial.
 
I never saw any advantage to a reactor, but I know a lot of people have them. I could see it being a big space saver if you are willing to use your RO/DI for direct top off without a reservoir. Is that what you guys are doing?


I'm not using kalk now, but I should be. The elevated co2 in the house is always a problem for my tanks in the winter.
 
kalk

kalk

Here's my idea. I'd like to hear a "thumbs or down" from some of you and why...

I have a 10 gallon fish tank that is new. My idea is to remove the little pump from my top off system in a 5 gallon bucket and place it in the 10 gallon tank about 2 inches from the bottom of the tank.

Once a week place about 8 tablespoons of kalk powder in the 10 gallon tank of RO water and toss a powerhead in there to mix it up. Unplug the top off system so it won't pump kalk into my system until it properly settles. Remove the powerhead that is mixing the kalkwasser, plug in the top off pump.

If my calculations are correct, the top off system will dispense about a gallon of calcerous water (12 ph) into my sump at a rate of around 3 gallons every two days. I'm guessing this sort of set-up will be better than what I have now... A 5 gallon bucket of RO water for top off and a 1 gallon kalkwasser container dosed once a day.

Your thoughts?

I do have a PH meter. I suppose I can test and take notes. Perhaps leave the top off pump on a timer?

Steve
 
IMO no reason that wont work. Difficult part is usually finding a slow top off pump that doesnt plug in a few days.

Now you guys have me thinking about a kalk reactor. I could really use the space my 40g top off container is taking up.

1-Are you guys feeding a reactor with your RO/DI?
2-How often are you refilling your reactor?
 
You could plumb your RO/DI directly to the setup to save space. I did this with an electronic solenoid that switched on by a float switch. Its all relative to your comfort with switch.

1.) Currently I have an RO/DI reservoir feeding the reactor via dosing pump. To me, this is the safest way.

2.) I add kalk to the reactor every 2 weeks. Some add a ton and go months.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9122966#post9122966 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scottfarcuz
Andy,
Do you feel there is a drawback to manually mixing kalk for top off? Randy claims manually dosing even from large containers sitting for several weeks is just as effective as a reactor.


I'm just curious if you have a theory. I can't argue with the results you are having. :)
Click to expand...


I would say any way you can automate the delivery of top off water, DO IT.

Most reef tanks need the Calcium anyways.
 
I ran the trash can kalk method, but i got tired of it.

Breathing the Kalk was nasty, it took up lots of room

I was not talking about the purity of the Kalkwasser, i read those articles from Randy, sounds good. It works thats for sure
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9125257#post9125257 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serpentman
You could plumb your RO/DI directly to the setup to save space. I did this with an electronic solenoid that switched on by a float switch. Its all relative to your comfort with switch.

1.) Currently I have an RO/DI reservoir feeding the reactor via dosing pump. To me, this is the safest way.

2.) I add kalk to the reactor every 2 weeks. Some add a ton and go months.
Click to expand...

This is what i am talking about !!


But what ever fits your budget, you can go both routes
 
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