Re-automating my tank

[ronc98]

You need an isolated diaphram type valve. I use these with my setup however the valves themselves are expensive. Do a google for burkert or pneumatics.

We are talking 100 ish per valve.

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8446993#post8446993 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ronc98
You need an isolated diaphram type valve. I use these with my setup however the valves themselves are expensive. Do a google for burkert or pneumatics.

We are talking 100 ish per valve.

Pretty difficult to justify $300+ worth of valves.

Don

 

[ronc98]

Yes You are right. But who ever said it was this hobby was cheap.

I am a buit lucky since i have a steady supply of items like that.

 

[Cuervo]

Hey Don, would it be possible to turn your system on, run it for a couple of minutes, turn everything off, then check the conductivity. If it's not acceptable, turn it back on for a couple of minutes, and run through it again.

Then once you have reached the acceptable level, it does what it's supposed to do?

My other question is, could it be possible to get a greater distance between the valves and the probe - maybe if the distance were longer, the stray voltage wouldn't affect it? Also, could it be the electromagnetic field from the valves that is causing the false reading as opposed to actual voltage in the water?

Just trying to throw out some ideas for ya!

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8450255#post8450255 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cuervo
Hey Don, would it be possible to turn your system on, run it for a couple of minutes, turn everything off, then check the conductivity. If it's not acceptable, turn it back on for a couple of minutes, and run through it again.

Then once you have reached the acceptable level, it does what it's supposed to do?

My other question is, could it be possible to get a greater distance between the valves and the probe - maybe if the distance were longer, the stray voltage wouldn't affect it? Also, could it be the electromagnetic field from the valves that is causing the false reading as opposed to actual voltage in the water?

Just trying to throw out some ideas for ya!

I did consider both of those options. Moving the probe 6ft away did nothing. Once the solenoids turn on it causes the controller to read a steady 1999 until I unplug it and reset.

I'll have my other parts tomarrow anyways. It will work just fine.

Don

 

[Cuervo]

That's just wierd.. I wouldn't have expected 12V to travel that far through water. I guess the probe is extremely sensitive though.

 

[Donw]

Alright here is the fix for the previous hang up. Very simple and can be used with any float valve or solenoid valve type ato system. The ato is just a solenoid that opens the rodi line to the sump, this new gizmois just a add-on.

First is the pressure switch. If the ato turns on the pressure will drop below 20psi. This sends power to the timer board. The board turns on the dump solenoid for a time from 0-60 seconds or 0-60 minutes depending on the jumper settings. After the dump cycle the board closes the dump and opens the clean water solenoid. When the tank is full the ato shuts off and the pressure rises. When it hits 20psi it shuts down the clean water solenoid. Finally when the pressure reaches 90% of line pressure the rodi asv will shut down the input and waste.

 

[conefree]

good find Don! Where did you get the timer module?

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8463009#post8463009 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conefree
good find Don! Where did you get the timer module?

The timer is just a modified version of the elk 960.

Don

 

[ppurcell]

Can you include a link for the pressure switch? I have a line on a timer module from Keelay (multi timer from the sump thread) that I think I would use with this pressure switch. This mod should be a lot less expensive than the SpectraPure solution.

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8466075#post8466075 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ppurcell
Can you include a link for the pressure switch? I have a line on a timer module from Keelay (multi timer from the sump thread) that I think I would use with this pressure switch. This mod should be a lot less expensive than the SpectraPure solution.

I'll have to look up the pn when I get home but the switches come from omega. This whole project is pretty cheap under $55 so if your timer is expensive I have a few of these timers.

Don

 

[ppurcell]

Cool. And I just got pumped while looking at the linear actuator link you provided. I now know what my next project is going to be. Are you using a PLC to control the time of day raising/lowering cycle or something else?

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8466159#post8466159 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ppurcell
Cool. And I just got pumped while looking at the linear actuator link you provided. I now know what my next project is going to be. Are you using a PLC to control the time of day raising/lowering cycle or something else?

Its all controlled by the ocelot in one way or another.

Don

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8466075#post8466075 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ppurcell
Can you include a link for the pressure switch? I have a line on a timer module from Keelay (multi timer from the sump thread) that I think I would use with this pressure switch. This mod should be a lot less expensive than the SpectraPure solution.

Switch is a psw23-20 FYI dont try to solder leads onto the switch without a heatsink.

Don

 

[ppurcell]

What would be the best way to do that? Alligator clip on the lead with heavy gauge wire connected to the heatsink?

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8471687#post8471687 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ppurcell
What would be the best way to do that? Alligator clip on the lead with heavy gauge wire connected to the heatsink?

Ive got a fancy little aluminum clip on heat sink. Otherwise I use little needle nose piers or vise grips.

Don

 

[PaintGuru]

Sorry I'm a bit late to the party. Anyone have any good website on how these components work (like what you have to connect to certain things, etc.) and where to buy some of this stuff? I have some basic programming experience in controllers, but nothing that I have pieced together myself. This is something I've always wanted to play with, but didn't know where to start.

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8490373#post8490373 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaintGuru
Sorry I'm a bit late to the party. Anyone have any good website on how these components work (like what you have to connect to certain things, etc.) and where to buy some of this stuff? I have some basic programming experience in controllers, but nothing that I have pieced together myself. This is something I've always wanted to play with, but didn't know where to start.

The controller and modules are applied digital www.appdig.com. Most everthing Ive posed is readily availible on the internet from many different suppliers. I like Worthington distributing for most automation related stuff and Omega for sensors.

Don

 

[PaintGuru]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8495734#post8495734 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
The controller and modules are applied digital www.appdig.com. Most everthing Ive posed is readily availible on the internet from many different suppliers. I like Worthington distributing for most automation related stuff and Omega for sensors.

Don

Cool, I'm slowly making progress on understanding how all this stuff works. I'm fine on the IF/THEN programming, and it looks like you simply need relays to turn things on and off if an input is triggered (this is where I need to learn more on how one hooks up relays). I think in the end I may need to buy your custom powerstrip to hook into the SECU

 

[Matrexz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8241306#post8241306 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Yeah trusting a PC can be hard. I have an ATMEGA128 that I was going to play with, but I am to lazy to solder THAT MANY SMT pins to a board and to cheap to buy a ATEMGA dev board. I got some pretty powerfull PICs but am to cheap to buy the programmer for the 18F devices (about $180).

Right now I am woring on a PIC based current measurement package that will monitor all 24 of my outputs and log the power usage of each device. It is basically a set of 24 cheap current transformers, a bridge rectifier and buffer and a PIC to do the A/D. The output with be local LCD and RS485 to interface to whatever controller I end up with.

The prototype for the relay box looks good. Don't give the wife too much credit, otherwise she will be the one who spends the profits!

I play with the atmegas as well here's a link for ya bean on a cheap bard or anyone else.

http://www.futurlec.com/ET-AVR_Stamp.shtml