Re-automating my tank

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8373221#post8373221 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FuzzyLogic
Don or Tanya, which linear actuator are you using?

http://www.firgelliauto.com/ I'm using the 24" with the motor built in, the square one.

Don

 

[TandN]

I am gonna have it so that at maximum hieght extended stops before the ceiling I bought the one that only goes 6"

 

[Donw]

Here is the beginning of the rodi system portion of the remodel. I'll add the electronics after I get the replacement for the second ro membrane that I broke.

 

[TandN]

Hey Don do you need a single RO membrane holder like the last one on the top row ????

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8378884#post8378884 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tanya72806
Hey Don do you need a single RO membrane holder like the last one on the top row ????

Thats the one. Ive got one comming should be here today or monday. Instead of adding more tape to a fitting I got lazy and tried to give it just one more turn to many. It will work out anyways, this way I'll have two fresh membranes.


Don

 

[RobbyG]

Thats a whole lot of work, you could have gotten a pressure switch or made one by just putting a TEE in the Co2 line and then branching the extra line over to a small spring loaded piston in a tube. I think you get the picture.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8372396#post8372396 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
What I really needed for this system was a way to have a hammer pound me on the head when my co2 starts running low. I have a spare bottle but I loose at least one coral every time I put off buying co2.
I took wire and soldered it to the spring inside the co2 gauge. Then took a second wire and soldered it to the needle stop pin. Then insulated the face from the gauge with tape so there is no continuity. I then tweeked the tip of the needle so that it touches the stop at 50psi instead of 0. Now I'm going to have the system bother me and the wife until I get co2. Bothering the wife is the key to it success.

Don

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8379670#post8379670 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Thats a whole lot of work, you could have gotten a pressure switch or made one by just putting a TEE in the Co2 line and then branching the extra line over to a small spring loaded piston in a tube. I think you get the picture.

Were talking bottle pressure 1100psi for the little bottle and 2000psi on the bigger one. This took 5 minuts and cost nothing. A preset 50psi switch that can hande 2000+psi and the related plumbing to hook it directly to a bottle would cost around $300 to set up.

Don

 

[TandN]

O ok I have one i would of sent to you for free

 

[CHAOSTACTICS]

good lord, this is far better an far more complicated then anything i could hope to achieve with my tank

 

[Donw]

I'll wire it tomarrow.

 

[Donw]

Here is the tail end of the light lift photo period. Then 2 bulbs shut off and it about as bright as 20k moonlights. Then one hour later the last bulb goes off.

 

[goda]

look in to spectra pures ptv system
i just got one for 400 bucks that turns on the ro unit when psi in storage tank drops. and passes first ferw gallons of water to waste ( so the temporay high tds dosnt touch the di ) then after its done it auto flushes the membrainf or a few minutes

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8402224#post8402224 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by goda
look in to spectra pures ptv system
i just got one for 400 bucks that turns on the ro unit when psi in storage tank drops. and passes first ferw gallons of water to waste ( so the temporay high tds dosnt touch the di ) then after its done it auto flushes the membrainf or a few minutes

Ive been doing that for the last two years. It sure makes membranes last a long time. I added to the automation system and 10 stage rodi for about $60. I also dump the input water to deal with the cities water line flushing program.

Don

 

[Tiki G.]

Talk about making things easy. Enjoying following this thread.

 

[Donw]

Few more pics.

 

[Donw]

Well, the conductivity control turned out to be a complete flop. It works perfectly up until the solenoids turn on. The solenoids are 12vdc and are obviously putting dc voltage into the water. The conductivity probe is picking up the voltage and causing the dump solenoid to run constantly. I tried gounding the solenoids and the water with no luck, so back to the drawing board.

Don

 

[tinygiants]

Donw,

I have seen some conductivity set ups that use a remote water holder to set the probe in. I would think that a slow feeding "cup" would isolate the water volume. As the cup over fills it would spill over into the sump. If the spill over tube provides for water stream break up, then the volume would be elictrically isolated. Or do I not understand the problem?

Dale

 

[tinygiants]

Never mind, it seems I am thinking of the tank, and it appears you are working with the RO/DI unit.

Sorry.

Dale

 

[Tigger240]

edit: n/m bad idea was here

also did you try to ground the solenoid and not ground the water? if you do them together it maybe easier for the electric to ground through the water than through itself?

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8443910#post8443910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tigger240
edit: n/m bad idea was here

also did you try to ground the solenoid and not ground the water? if you do them together it maybe easier for the electric to ground through the water than through itself?

I tried every combonation with no luck. I designed a rodi add on flush timer that works with any rodi that has a asv. I guess I'll just install one on my system. Not really what I was after but they do work.

Don