Reactor manifold off return pump: Will this work?

[t4zalews]

After many drawings I've came up with this. This is just a dry fit for sizing. The end of it will be 45'd back to the middle of the tank where it will be T'd at the top for a dual return. Pump is an ehiem 1262.

Will this work or does anyone have any suggestions for a better design. Thanks

 

[SWKustoms]

Good question as I am about to do a setup just like this. I've seen it done before but I would like to get a little more insight on it.

 

[Aquatron]

Hello,
Looking good i would add a valve for each reactor to control flow in.

 

[bu11itt]

+1 on the individual reactor valves for flow control.

Also, I'd add a valve on the upstream (pump discharge) side of the pipe union. This way if you ever have to take both reactors offline or want to amend the manifold to add additional ports you can lock it out and still maintain circulation through your sump and into your tank.

 

[t4zalews]

I will be using valves on the 1/2 tubing between the manifold and reactor. I will be using the BRS reactors and they come with the small grey ball valves that tune in very well. I was originally going to use gate valves but with the limited space I have under my sump it wasn't going to work out.

I was going to add a true union ball valve instead of the normal union but I don't have enough horizontal space to do it. I still could add it if it would make a big impact, but then I'd have to rearrange how the reactor feeds would be. It would have to be union ball valve -> T -> then two 90's for individual feeds. Would work, but would be much more cluttered (what I'm trying to avoid).

 

[t4zalews]

btw..this is my first time doing hard plumbing, so if I'm missing something simple, please advise

 

[Brando457]

I would move the ball valve to where you have the straight run of pvc before the T. With the way you have it now that valve will get covered in saltwater and be difficult to turn eventually. It is better to not have it submerged at all. Otherwise It'll work fine.

 

[bpcardona]

What type of drainage system do you have? If it is a full siphon, it might be more trouble then it's worth.

 

[NH Fish]

Might want to put a t-y in there instead of just a t.

 

[t4zalews]

I would move the ball valve to where you have the straight run of pvc before the T. With the way you have it now that valve will get covered in saltwater and be difficult to turn eventually. It is better to not have it submerged at all. Otherwise It'll work fine.

It's partially submerged, but that a good idea, I will move it up

What type of drainage system do you have? If it is a full siphon, it might be more trouble then it's worth.

I have a 1.5" drain, with a 1" backup. I will be drilling anti-siphon holes as I am going over the top with the returns.

Might want to put a t-y in there instead of just a t.

If I went this route, I'd probably pick up some street 90's to save some space, and if I did this, I would use the union ball valve. I'll go to home depot tomorrow and pick some up to see what this would be like.

 

[t4zalews]

Here is what it would look liked with the ball valve and a Y. I wouldnt need street elbows as this would be pretty similar in size. If this is a better design, I could easily make this work. Pardon the feet

Second look, I would street elbow the Y so that the reducer to push fitting would be shorter.

 

[bobssecrtsn]

If i were you id put the ball valve after the manifold. if you put it before the T like you have it now, your flow in the manifold and DT will decrease. if you have the ball valve after the manifold you can adjust your display flow and your manifold flow will not be disturbed...

this how my setup is and i love it.

 

[t4zalews]

If i were you id put the ball valve after the manifold. if you put it before the T like you have it now, your flow in the manifold and DT will decrease. if you have the ball valve after the manifold you can adjust your display flow and your manifold flow will not be disturbed...

this how my setup is and i love it.

I will have union ball valves on each of the sides at the top of the tank for each return to control how much flow I want out of each one.

Should I just replace that ball valve with a union as I will have a ball valve for each of the other outlets?

 

[bobssecrtsn]

yes you should, that ball valve right next to the pump is useless

 

[t4zalews]

would it be worth it to coupling to 1" and use a 1" union then back couple back down to 3/4" so the union after the pump wont be more narrow? Or is this a moot idea

 

[bdr]

I have the same pump on a manifold works fine my drain is a full siphon 1.5" that is throttled back to flow the pump can supply. out of pump into manifold with flexible clear hose, then its all 3/4 pvc every t off gets a 3/4 ball valve. I wish I spent the money now on gate valves and I will be rebuilding this properly with the right valves. this will be a 40-50 dollar lesson learned. With this manifold I feed my display, brs reator (I leave that valve adjusted where I want it and use the one on the reactor to turn on and off) and a drain that goes outside for water changes.

 

[keithhays]

I would have valves on everything and more couplings particularly where your bends are because these frequently have to be adjusted for angle:

Mine is a little larger, but the concept is the same:
I can never figure out how to embed videos anymore.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=-oL34dssLmc

 

[r-balljunkie]

f you are using TLF reactors, you can use the ball valves on soft tubing to isolate the flow.

 

[t4zalews]

I think I like the Y design more, bought some street 90's this morning and it fits perfect. Also picked up a 1" union so there is no flow reduction on coming out of the pump. Like I said I have a union ball valve on each of the outlets to control flow, so a control on the pump itself is just another restriction. I'll be mocking up another go at it...

 

[t4zalews]

So here is what it looks like with a Y. This design may work better. Note the 1" union so that no loss is incurred after the pump in the 3/4" pipe

Here is what it looks like in my sump. I've set up an empty reactor in there to show you how it would hook up. The spacing is close to perfect. This may be a winning design.

You can see in my sump the old return and a separate pump that was my reactor feed. Those would be gone and the only addition would be another reactor.