Thanks Nate for your comments.
Right now I have no fish at all. The damsel has a new home. I will likely get an orchid dottyback in the future.
Honestly, I feed pinches (literally) of the smallest 2 sizes of top dressed Otohime from Reed (APBreed). I add it 1-2 times a week. I dose 0.5 mL/gallon day of 5% acetic acid.
The tank lets me know (almost) right away if I've added too much food, after a few day delay, nice green film.
Some other general husbandry stuff.
I turkey baste the rocks once a week to suspend trapped detritus (there isn't usually much). The skimmer pulls maybe 100 mL of wet, tan-colored skimmate a week.
I top off with RO/DI saturated with kalkwasser, to boost pH up. The issue is preventing it from shooting too high if the top off triggers during daytime... Thus, the topoff is programmed such that no kalkwasser enters the system if the pH is at 8.40 or reaches 8.40 as kalkwasser is being added (i.e., it will cease to top off, with a 60 minute hysteresis). This usually means the ATO runs at night.
I add the vinegar and 5 mL of each part B-Ionic in the morning.
Howdy,
I've read both threads, fun to follow along.
In the first thread it was mentioned that Therman's old TOTM winner was lost. The wayback machine has a copy, just FYI for those who want to see it.
http://web.archive.org/web/20040413050805/http://www.reefcentral.com/totm/2001-10/index.php
Looking forward to seeing continued progress with this tank.
Thank you for the reply. I have noticed that there is a great deal of confusion regarding the term nutrients when talking about reef tanks. One 'definition' of the term would seem to describe the levels of nitrate and phosphate in the reef, while the other 'definition' describes the amount of food in the water column that the corals (hard and soft) can consume. Base on the literature I have read, real stony dominate reefs are low in the 'nutrients' phosphate and nitrate, while nutrient dense with regard to flora and fauna that the corals can actually consume.
I believe that the bare bottom method is the perfect approach while trying to achieve this balance, as it allows a greater degree of control with regard to nutrient control, in both senses. It appears that perhaps with a less aggressive means of detritus removal (with your tank compared to mine) there is more food for the coral, and therefore would require less frequent intentional feedings. Would you agree? Also, do you feel that the addition of a carbon source provides additional food for your corals?
I love it.
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I have the same meter. I love mine for how consistent and accurate it is. In terms of accuracy, I have tested against D&D and Merck low range kits.
I have been using mine for nearly two years I think. Over 100 tests done with it.
My meter gave me a reading of 17 the other day...converted that is roughly 0.05ppm phosphate. I would like lower, in the hopes my corals colour up better.
Some of my SPS (mainly the aquacultured) are colouring up nicely. The Mari frags are kinda brown or some very brown.
Two questions for you:
1. Couldnt see on this thread; what are you using to control phosphates?
2. How low do you wish to take the phosphate (ie 0.03ppm or even lower)?
I finally found the last reservoir of garbage in the tank from the crash, it was a pile of detritus inside the skimmer body. After deep cleaning the skimmer and tuning it to run very wet on the 11th, today the PO4 measures 0.006 ppm, and the water is as clear as air this morning. I'm excited to see how things progress from here.
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Can you provide an idea of much skimmer fluid you are collecting daily or even weekly?
A shot of your skimmate fluid would be very useful. I just didnt think wet skimming would make much of an impact on phosphate levels.
Thanks for continuing this very interesting and useful thread :thumbsup:
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I about spit my coffee out when I saw the reading at the end of the timer this morning.