<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11126647#post11126647 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dendro982
Sideline question about the tanks, shown in this thread, Reef Ceramics and see-trough shortcrete tanks.
They give impression of open and clean space.
I just finished reaquascaping with recommended amount of LR, and my tank looks like a dump (what is the word for stone dump - quarry?). Everything is filled by rock.
Where are you keeping your other rock or biomedia - in the sump?
Thanks.
It depends on what kind of tank you're aquascaping. If it's one of your nano tanks listed in your signature, then they need 2 lbs per gallon. If it's over 50 gallons, then you only need 1 lbs per gallon, in my opinion.
The need for nitrification is dictated by the bioload, not the volume of water. As a general rule, nitrifying bacteria need a certain amount (critical mass) of rock to establish a stable colony. Any additional rock (sites) will not increase the colony, just the amount of real estate available.
There are some good aquascaping tips in this thread.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1001929
Here are a few of my tips, in no particular order.
- try to make it asymmetrical. Symmetry makes it look fake.
- use the small (orange size) pieces on the bottom to make a smaller footprint in the sand.
- hide plumbing etc. first, then continue with the rest of the tank.
- make sure you orient each rock with the "good side" up, while maintaining the natural strata (the position the rock was formed in) of the rock.
- don't place rocks precariously, for function (balance & stability) and aesthetic reasons.
- add substrate when the rock work is half done so the rock sits on the glass and not the sand. Otherwise fish and inverts will undermine, and collapse the structure.
- make an effort to have a low foreground, medium height mid-ground, and taller background, but don't make it too contrived or it will look fake.
- incorporate a small island to make it look bigger and more realistic.
- remember to leave room for coral to grow at the top of the tank (don't go too high).
- try not to make a straight line of uniform height, break it up with peaks and valleys.
- leave some caves for non-photosynthetic corals and cave dwelling fish.
- create stable shelves for corals. You can use a pedestal to hold it up.
- keep in mind that you want as much area as possible exposed to light. Too many overhangs or steep drop-offs will cause excess shadowing.
- use key stones to hold the reef structure together. These can double as bridges.
- Test the stability of the reef as you go. Gently push down on it from above so the rocks lock together naturally.
- when it's done, go around the base and middle and remove rocks that aren't structural. This will open up the reef and create caves without losing structural integrity.
- try to picture what kind of corals you want in each location and design around that. Create a gentle sweeping base for mushrooms on the bottom, and holes in the middle regions to hold euphylia branches for an overhang effect. Leave large areas for leather corals to fill.
- avoid the straight brick wall style at all costs.
- use the biggest rocks before you get stuck with them at the end, when they no longer fit. You can always break them into smaller pieces, but it's a shame when they traveled so far to get to your tank.
- cable ties only last a few years under water, but they can help hold it together as you build and later as corals grow and bond it together. The clear/white cable ties last longer than the black ones.
- if you use powerheads, build caves to hide them and make sure you are able to remove them every couple of months to service.
- make sure that your rock-work doesn't impede with flow from returns or powerheads.
- leave access points for closed loop intakes, so you can use a tooth brush to clean them periodically.
- incorporate large enough coral perches and nooks to avoid stinging from neighbouring corals.
- use large shells or rock rubble at the base so sand sifting fish & inverts can build permanent, stable tunnels. This will stop them from constantly digging.
- leave room between the rock-work and glass for cleaning pads and magnets.
- use the ugly rocks at the back for stability, but don't pack it tight, as you need room for fish and water flow.
- try to leave a channel across the back at the bottom for a closed loop return or powerhead, to eliminate dead spots.
- test fit pieces out of the tank before you put them in.
- don't be afraid of breaking pieces to fit.
- use only as much rock as you need. Don't feel obligated to add more rock just because you have it.
- if you don't like the way it looks, start again.
- always aquascape while the tank is empty (no water).
