Reeferhead's 150DD Build
- Thread starter Reeferhead
- Start date
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/GAP-LC.html
The Gap Level Loc is a float valve with a float switch controlled solenoid valve in one. So it has a built in failsafe. I think my real issue with hooking it directly to the RO is excessive wearing of the RODI's auto shutoff valve.
Yeah, I love it too. I can't imagine dealing with this tank without it. Once I trim out to the wall and conceal the mechanicals behind the tank its going to look even more super awesomo!
Got a little work done today.
Got a little work done today.
Finished up the dry rock portion of my aquascaping. I still plan to add a few pieces of LR from my current tank to create a couple ledges and help seed the Marco Rock. Its difficult but I did my best to keep the amount of rock I used to a minimum. I want lots of room for SPS growth. I have a big sump and plan on cramming as much LR as I can into it for biological filtration.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108466/" title="IMG_0130 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/5037108466_0fdbddc579.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0130" /></a>
So I used a 3/8" tap to create threaded holes into a sheet of 3/4 acrylic. Then screwed in 3/8" fiberglass threaded rod and used PVC nuts and washers for the rock to rest on.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108476/" title="IMG_0131 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5037108476_2a0e81bb12.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0131" /></a>
I elevated all the rock about an inch which will be the depth of my sandbed. I placed the rock to maximize flow underneath. I used a 3/8" masonry bit to drill the holes in the rock.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108480/" title="IMG_0132 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5037108480_96a6bfc64d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0132" /></a>
So here it is complete. The cardboard is the dimensions of my tank. Like I said, "minimal." Once I add 2-3 pieces of LR (holes are predrilled into the dry) there will only be about 60 pounds of rock total in the tank.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108484/" title="IMG_0133 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5037108484_f59a8f5623.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0133" /></a>
I haven't decided yet if I will secure the threaded rod into the rock with thorite cement yet or not. Everything is pretty stable without it so I may skip it and leave the option to easily change it later if I need to.
Got a little work done today.
Finished up the dry rock portion of my aquascaping. I still plan to add a few pieces of LR from my current tank to create a couple ledges and help seed the Marco Rock. Its difficult but I did my best to keep the amount of rock I used to a minimum. I want lots of room for SPS growth. I have a big sump and plan on cramming as much LR as I can into it for biological filtration.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108466/" title="IMG_0130 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/5037108466_0fdbddc579.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0130" /></a>
So I used a 3/8" tap to create threaded holes into a sheet of 3/4 acrylic. Then screwed in 3/8" fiberglass threaded rod and used PVC nuts and washers for the rock to rest on.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108476/" title="IMG_0131 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5037108476_2a0e81bb12.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0131" /></a>
I elevated all the rock about an inch which will be the depth of my sandbed. I placed the rock to maximize flow underneath. I used a 3/8" masonry bit to drill the holes in the rock.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108480/" title="IMG_0132 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5037108480_96a6bfc64d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0132" /></a>
So here it is complete. The cardboard is the dimensions of my tank. Like I said, "minimal." Once I add 2-3 pieces of LR (holes are predrilled into the dry) there will only be about 60 pounds of rock total in the tank.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5037108484/" title="IMG_0133 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5037108484_f59a8f5623.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0133" /></a>
I haven't decided yet if I will secure the threaded rod into the rock with thorite cement yet or not. Everything is pretty stable without it so I may skip it and leave the option to easily change it later if I need to.
plumbing video
plumbing video
So I made some changes to my plumbing. Here's a video of a freshwater test I did today at maximum flow. I had to take the overflow grate off so it could handle it. I'm going to modify the overflow a bit but there's no way I'll run that much water through it. I'm running one drain pipe as a siphon and plan on running the other one (slightly higher) as a Durso that is siphon capable. In this video the 2nd drain is just a straight standpipe and the reason its so loud. Once I install the durso and turn down the flow the tank should be pretty quiet... well at least when I'm not lifting the hood
I love my sump, its fun just to look at
Warning! Turn the volume down on your computer before watching unless you like the sound of fingernails on a chalkboard :lol:
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YOnRWU6tpXo?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YOnRWU6tpXo?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
plumbing video
So I made some changes to my plumbing. Here's a video of a freshwater test I did today at maximum flow. I had to take the overflow grate off so it could handle it. I'm going to modify the overflow a bit but there's no way I'll run that much water through it. I'm running one drain pipe as a siphon and plan on running the other one (slightly higher) as a Durso that is siphon capable. In this video the 2nd drain is just a straight standpipe and the reason its so loud. Once I install the durso and turn down the flow the tank should be pretty quiet... well at least when I'm not lifting the hood
I love my sump, its fun just to look at
Warning! Turn the volume down on your computer before watching unless you like the sound of fingernails on a chalkboard :lol:
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YOnRWU6tpXo?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YOnRWU6tpXo?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
_E_
Professional Lurker
My initial concern would be TDS creep at startup of the RO unit. I know that you can put the solenoid on a timer so that you only make water at certain times (and therefore in larger quantities), but as a rule, I like to make at least 5 gallons at a time when I run my RO/DI.
Additionally, I would be concerned with excess water production (and the resultant salinity drop) in the event that something went wrong. I know that's what the backup soleniod is for, but you never know. I have a topoff unit that has a secondary (backup) float to shut off my topoff pump in case the first float valve fails. However, I recently had the drains in my DT become partially clogged and slow the water getting into the sump. My pump kept pushing water up to the DT at the same speed, creating a waterfall over the side of the DT and a low water condition in the sump (triggering the float). Luckily I topoff from a 5 gallon jug that was only partially full, so the amount of water on the floor was better than it could have been and the salinity drop was minimal. What this has taught me though is, when automating something, rudundency is the key.
logiktest
New member
Jeez, not even Pizza Night yet, and I'm already having to get permission to smart off... Naw man, I would have gone with something like a Reeflow Dart. You know, for flow. :lol:
I'd be a little worried about about an infinite water supply from your RODI just waiting to enter your tank should something fail. Could you use some sort of top off tank that only tops itself off right before its empty? I also think _E_ Makes a valid point about the TDS creep.
An automatic waterchange system sounds great, and I'm sure having a conductivity probe will open up many options for you. Have you seen these pumps? This is one of the lower flow models, as they vary in overall quantity as well:
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17517&cat=1113&page=1
Your rockwork looks great, and that hood lift is rad!
I'm down at Ft Benning right now. I just finished eating IHOP 
I feel so much better. Weighed in at 168 and I'm already back to 176. I'll likely be 178 when the tournament starts tomorrow. There are over 100 soldiers in my division.
Thanks E and Mike,
All valid points on the topoff. I think I am going to go with what I know will work and setup a 10-20 gallon tank as a reservoir and gravity feed the levelloc. Additional back ups will include setting a valve on the RO line so it adds fresh water at a rate comparable to my evap and/or hooking the levelloc to my controller so it adds small amounts several times a day. I can also work my conductivity probe into the mix for added control.
The dual head Reef Filler is on my short list for the auto water changes.
Dave,
The black shelf with the holes is for my CDP tank but initially I'm not going to use it as that portion of my sump will be full of LR and softies waiting to be put back in my current 60 gallon when I tear it all down and reset it up as a softie/jawfish tank.
The sump is 33" x 33" x 12" about 60 gallons. I think I can fit about 80 pounds of LR in there.
I feel so much better. Weighed in at 168 and I'm already back to 176. I'll likely be 178 when the tournament starts tomorrow. There are over 100 soldiers in my division.Thanks E and Mike,
All valid points on the topoff. I think I am going to go with what I know will work and setup a 10-20 gallon tank as a reservoir and gravity feed the levelloc. Additional back ups will include setting a valve on the RO line so it adds fresh water at a rate comparable to my evap and/or hooking the levelloc to my controller so it adds small amounts several times a day. I can also work my conductivity probe into the mix for added control.
The dual head Reef Filler is on my short list for the auto water changes.
Dave,
The black shelf with the holes is for my CDP tank but initially I'm not going to use it as that portion of my sump will be full of LR and softies waiting to be put back in my current 60 gallon when I tear it all down and reset it up as a softie/jawfish tank.
The sump is 33" x 33" x 12" about 60 gallons. I think I can fit about 80 pounds of LR in there.
Working on it this weekend. I should have something to show for it on Sunday.
Carriegiesler
New member
Love the hood lift and the rock stilks...taking notes on your great build
I installed the lights into the hood yesterday. I had some leftover aluminum from a previous reflector project so I made some reflectors for the VHOs. Even though the VHOs have a "built in" reflector I think these real ones make a difference.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5133697720/" title="light by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1173/5133697720_beb6019367.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="light" /></a>
Lumenmax Elite SE Reflector
250/400 watt Lumentek Ballast
Radium Bulbs (250 and 400 watt to play around with)
2 x 36" VHO URI Super Actinics in homemade reflectors.
I knew from the start the the stock hood was way too short to get a good spread with a single MH throughout the tank. However, I'm getting decent coverage on the center islands where I intend to actually keep corals. I may still add some T-5s or LED spotlights in the future, we'll see how it goes. I have my own PAR meter now and will post some numbers when the tank finishes filling.
Almost full!!!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5133097961/" title="fill2 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/5133097961_6b2c675509.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fill2" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5133697720/" title="light by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1173/5133697720_beb6019367.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="light" /></a>
Lumenmax Elite SE Reflector
250/400 watt Lumentek Ballast
Radium Bulbs (250 and 400 watt to play around with)
2 x 36" VHO URI Super Actinics in homemade reflectors.
I knew from the start the the stock hood was way too short to get a good spread with a single MH throughout the tank. However, I'm getting decent coverage on the center islands where I intend to actually keep corals. I may still add some T-5s or LED spotlights in the future, we'll see how it goes. I have my own PAR meter now and will post some numbers when the tank finishes filling.
Almost full!!!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21479988@N04/5133097961/" title="fill2 by nickgrant79, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/5133097961_6b2c675509.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fill2" /></a>
Oh, BTW the sand is Tropic Eden Miniflakes and is by far the best sand I've ever seen. Big thanks to Lonnie for the recommendation. :thumbsup:
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