I wouldn't call it Balling, maybe Balling Light? Its not setup on this tank yet but I'll be dosing Randy's 3-part via dosing pumps controlled by the Apex.
Reeferhead's 150DD Build
- Thread starter Reeferhead
- Start date
Dennis had the stickers at the swap, you didn't get one?
I can always wait until the next frag swap, and use Sharpies in the meantime.
No pics but I got a bit more work done. I mounted and hooked up almost all of my new APEX toys but currently only have the lights working on it. I'm unable to use the Temp, pH, Conductivity, and Vortech control modules until I update the APEX's firmware, which I've found is a real pain to do on a Mac. I'm hoping to sort it all out this weekend.
The LED Spotlights are also in. I need to go to Lowes this weekend to find some suitable tracklighting fixtures and get them hooked up. I also ordered a Water Blaster 5000 to replace the 7000 as its way more flow than I need and a bit louder than I would prefer.
To ensure a good cycle, I've been feeding the 150 everytime I feed the 60 which is about 4-5 times a week. At three weeks in, I'm starting to get a little bit of green hair algae developing, but no diatoms or coraline yet. I plan on ordering a CUC in the next few weeks and split it up between the two tanks. The CUC in the 60 is pretty week right now and I'm struggling with red turf and this stringy black cyano that is impossible to blow off with a powerhead. I really need to change the GFO in my 60 more often but I get lazy
ALK: 6 dkh
Ca: 500+
Mg: 1500
NO3: undetectable
I'm using Coralife salt which I've found is lite on ALK and high on Ca and Mg. I added enough of Randy's Alk to bring it up to 9 DKH but I still need to retest.
The LED Spotlights are also in. I need to go to Lowes this weekend to find some suitable tracklighting fixtures and get them hooked up. I also ordered a Water Blaster 5000 to replace the 7000 as its way more flow than I need and a bit louder than I would prefer.
To ensure a good cycle, I've been feeding the 150 everytime I feed the 60 which is about 4-5 times a week. At three weeks in, I'm starting to get a little bit of green hair algae developing, but no diatoms or coraline yet. I plan on ordering a CUC in the next few weeks and split it up between the two tanks. The CUC in the 60 is pretty week right now and I'm struggling with red turf and this stringy black cyano that is impossible to blow off with a powerhead. I really need to change the GFO in my 60 more often but I get lazy
ALK: 6 dkh
Ca: 500+
Mg: 1500
NO3: undetectable
I'm using Coralife salt which I've found is lite on ALK and high on Ca and Mg. I added enough of Randy's Alk to bring it up to 9 DKH but I still need to retest.
tall_jason79
Active member
sounds like good progress, no chromis to aid in the cycle yet?
Nope. I went with 17 blue damsels, three of which I think are still alive. The rest are now "aiding the cycle."
Exactly? I don't know. Since I'm not an engineer lets say MAGIC
Seriously though the Reefiller is a dual head diaphram pump that will allow me to pump new saltwater in and old salt water out at the same time and at the same rate. The pump will be controlled by my APEX to change out about 1-2% per day or 2-4 gallons. I have two 40 gallon Brute trash cans to hold fresh saltwater located in my mud room on the opposite side of the house. This way I can alternate cans when I'm mixing a fresh batch. Two lengths of 3/8" tubing run though my crawl space to connect the system. I may setup a quarantine tank in the near future and have the old water run straight to it. I also have a conductivity probe that will be hooked to the APEX to shut down the reefiller if the salinity becomes too high or too low. Dr Randy on the Chemisty Forum uses the same pump.
I've used Coralife almost excusively for the last 6 years and have always found the Alk to be low. I usually bump it up before doing water changes.
Yeah, LED fixtures will be mounted in the hood. I have five bulbs but I'm not sure how many I will end up using.
smoothdog
Active member
It just dawned on me that I still use treated tap water. Since nothing gets pulled out of the water and St. Louis water is notoriously alkaline, that's probably why I've never had an issue. I'll have to keep that in mind if I ever hook up that RODI I bought last spring. :lol:
I tested the PO4 of my tap water last night and it was .70ppm 
I could never get away with tap in Caseyville.
I could never get away with tap in Caseyville.
Sistom
New member
Exactly? I don't know. Since I'm not an engineer lets say MAGIC
Seriously though the Reefiller is a dual head diaphram pump that will allow me to pump new saltwater in and old salt water out at the same time and at the same rate. The pump will be controlled by my APEX to change out about 1-2% per day or 2-4 gallons. I have two 40 gallon Brute trash cans to hold fresh saltwater located in my mud room on the opposite side of the house. This way I can alternate cans when I'm mixing a fresh batch. Two lengths of 3/8" tubing run though my crawl space to connect the system. I may setup a quarantine tank in the near future and have the old water run straight to it. I also have a conductivity probe that will be hooked to the APEX to shut down the reefiller if the salinity becomes too high or too low. Dr Randy on the Chemisty Forum uses the same pump.
I was looking into continuous systems and I guess it never dawned on me that they could be this simple lol...The setup that got me thinking about this idea was the Genesis Renew/Storm but It was WAY overcomplicated (and expensive). Could you point me in the direction of where I could find this pump? What about distance? I'm guessing you have a pretty long run from your DT to your brute cans?
smoothdog
Active member
I tested the PO4 of my tap water last night and it was .70ppm
I could never get away with tap in Caseyville.
I should break down and pick up one of those little hanna meters but I'm kind of afraid to actually know what my levels are. :eek2:
tall_jason79
Active member
nick i suppose there will be no concern for the water in your long run of tube to get overly cold dropping the tank any. i only ask because it is in a crawl space. Also do you for see any issue with a little stagnate water sitting in the tube for a 24 hour period of time? i only ask because you are a mostly SPS guy and the need for stability is critical.besides my two cents is really equal to a penny.... 1/2 off for the holiday lol
Here's the pump I got:
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17521&cat=1113&page=1
And here's a decent thread about using the reeffiller for a continous water change system:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1869266&highlight=reef+filler+water+change
If you do a little searching you'll find a lot more info on the subject
I have one add it works great but the 60 still reads zero PO4 dispite all the algae issues. I really think I need a good CUC to remobilized the nutrients that the algae is binding so they can be picked up by my skimmer and GFO.
I did the math and the tube itself will only hold about 1/3 gallon. I don't think temperature or low DO will play a factor as the discharge rate is so low and all the water will have ample mixing time in the sump.
For reference my 60 uses 2 gallons a day of topoff and in runs through my crawlspace as well
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Sistom
New member
Thanks for the info!
Might have to pick one of these up! And another energy bar for the Apex...And a long usb cable......and tubing............and....
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