Reeflo/Sequence Skimmer Club

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12914724#post12914724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NuReef
Hello...can someone post a pic of the old and new needlewheel side by side???


68af54d5.jpg
[/IMG]

This is the one I'm currently running on my Reeflo 200. The prototype NW's are identical for both the 200 & 250. I hear the performance gain is outstanding on the 250 also, like 90-100 scfh. I think stock they pull in the neigborhood of 65scfh.

HTH

:D
 
strendo
can you post a picture the hole skimmer and pump? the elbo turns that is why after you get it hooked up you put the little screws in it to hold it. the air valve looks right it is just in the wrong position it needs to be up. silicone grease is good to put on all unions on the o-ring and treads don't force it. hope this helps
 
Richierich-sorry my camera just died. The elbow turns fine, but the black collar that has the hole for the air valve in it is tightened all the way down. so the air valve is stuck pointing straight down.
 
You need to purchase some teflon tape and wrap the threads with alot of it. When you think you have put enough put a little more.

The valve needs to be between 10-12 o'clock.

HTH
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12915210#post12915210 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by strendo
Richierich-sorry my camera just died. The elbow turns fine, but the black collar that has the hole for the air valve in it is tightened all the way down. so the air valve is stuck pointing straight down.

I suggest you get yourself a full roll of teflon and use it. I recommend anyone that is putting a Reeflo skimmer together for the first time to read the RC article Paul Whitby wrote on the Reeflo 250. He gives pretty good instructions on how to set it up correctly. The only change I would make to his article would be to shorten the height of the tee about 3/4 of an inch or so that the top of the tee lines up with the top of the Reeflo lettering.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-11/pr/index.php
 
I used a lot of teflon tape, you think that I have it to tight?
I guess I could glue it in place since it would be pretty loose
 
Did you use a whole roll? I don't think you have it on too tight just not enough tape. Honestly this is the only major flaw that I find with these skimmers. But once you get the volute on correctly it's a cake walk.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12915210#post12915210 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by strendo
Richierich-sorry my camera just died. The elbow turns fine, but the black collar that has the hole for the air valve in it is tightened all the way down. so the air valve is stuck pointing straight down.

the black collar dosen't have to be all the way tightened down put alot of thread tape on it and when you feel it is getting close to all the way then stop where the air hole is 12 o'clock the thread tape will hold.


did you get the drain fixed?
 
I took me a few tries to get this water-tight at 12 O Clock. Ultimately, I had success using the thick teflon tape (red spool at Menards) and some PTFE paste.
 
I think it's completely random depending on where they drilled the hole. If they were smart, they'd line up the screw thread to the same location, then drill the hole in the correct spot. My guess is they just pick a spot based on the very random locations. This was one of my major complaints in the initial review I wrote.

Mine is at about 1:30-2 outward away from the skimmer body with a little tape.

06.03.2008-4.jpg
 
Those are from my upgrade pictures. Go a a few pages back and I discussed the original dart vs dart gold temps I was seeing. I've since removed the fan since the dart gold is SO much cooler.
 
I cant open up my air valve all the way or the skimmer starts flooding. Do I have too much flow going into it?

I have a few elbows in the return for it to reach my sump, could that cause the water level in the skimmer to raise to high?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12926101#post12926101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by strendo
I cant open up my air valve all the way or the skimmer starts flooding. Do I have too much flow going into it?

I have a few elbows in the return for it to reach my sump, could that cause the water level in the skimmer to raise to high?

With the reeflo pump turned off, the water level in your skimmer should be steady.

Adjust the resistance on the outflow to hold the water level somewhere around the "REEFLO" letters on the skimmer (see previous pictures). If you can hold the level steady here, and adjust it up and down a few cm you plumbing should be fine.

Ryan.
 
I received the final version of the Reef Specialty NW. All I can say is WOW. The craftsmanship is outstanding.

Here are the stock and the Reef Specialty Reeflo upgrade NW side by side.
DSCN2993.jpg


DSCN2997.jpg


Some close ups showing the perfect execution of it's design.
DSCN2998.jpg


DSCN3000.jpg


I have it soaking in some skimmate to hopefully allow for a faster break in time.
DSCN3001.jpg


I can't wait to get it installed on the skimmer. If it works as good or better than the prototype I will be astatic. All I can say is that it appears to be perfectly balanced which should run much smoother on the Dart. Thank Mike, I think it will be worth every penny.
 
Here is the 200 with the Reef Specialty Pro package added. I am still running the stock AO Smith Dart pump that initially came with these skimmers. This is quite impressive.
3 hours after cleaning the cup and replacing the needle wheel.

DSCN3003.jpg


The wattage ranges from 104-107 and staying usually around 105. The #s should become more steady once the wheel breaks in.
DSCN3006.jpg


I have no way of testing the air pull at this time. It just pins and sticks my 60 scfh max Dwyer meter. The suction howls like a freight train.
 
Back
Top