ReefWreak's 29g SPS Biocube Adventure!

[ReefWreak]

I don't believe my skimmer is modified in any way, just the cutout in the hood for the bracket. I'll double check to see if there were any of those weird flaps in the plastic that was cut away (I don't think so, since I think the flap is on the inside of chamber 2 for that partition between 1 and 2), but I'll double check tonight.

Yea, I don't have any weird magnet mods or anything like that for my AL115. It goes in and out of chamber 1 just fine, I just didn't do the initial setup since I bought the tank used with the skimmer already there, so I have to double check before misleading millions of AL115 users into tearing their hair out trying to jam it in a place that it doesn't fit.

That being said, I do like the stronger hold of the magnet on the 9001 versus the kinda spongy hold that is there with the AL115 with the stock suction cups. They're okay, and if a magnet held them better with minimal modding effort, that would be nice, but it's a "nice to have."

 

[ReefWreak]

Crossposted from here, but thought I'd share what I'm doing about the Green Star Polyps growing out in my tank (that I didn't introduce, they were in my LR which were DRY for a month before going into my tank).

I have GSP that are irritating my SPS (causing STN in small frags where they make contact, and slow discoloration and what looks like the start of STN in larger colonies). My wife wants to keep the GSP, so I bought a set of dental picks from Amazon to try that route first, but I have a bad feeling about the effectiveness of that, so I also ordered some Fish Bendazole (fenbendazole) powder.

My plan B is to start slowly adding powder to tank water, dissolving it, and pouring it into the tank. A little bit at a time until I start to notice a change in the GSP. I would ideally not like to kill the shrimp or other inverts in the tank, though I do know and understand the risks. It sounds like from the Amazon reviews that people have been using this in FW for hydras (don't know what these are), and often dose it into shrimp-filled tanks without killing the shrimps, so we'll see what can be done.

Last time I did a fluke tab dip for my QT of new acros (maybe 8 years ago, 120g SPS tank), it killed the small frag of xenia in my display tank after the frags were rinsed and introduced into the display tank. Hopefully this time it's as potent without killing my shrimp and other inverts.

 

[ReefWreak]

Working on adding in the ATO today.

If I wanted to start dosing KNO3, according to this thread, the formula to use would be:

To make a solution of 1Mole KNO3:
Add 101g of KNO3 / 1L H2O, which gives you 101mg (KNO3)/1mL (H2O) = 61mg (NO3) / 1mL

I did a bunch of other calculations but it took too long and wasn't coming up correctly so I'm just using this calculator for now on (about half way down the page on the right)! (Or this calculator too)

0.74PPM per 1mL of KNO3 solution (made at 101g (KNO3)/1L (H2O))

To raise tank NO3 by 3PPM:
(3mg/mL / 0.74 mg/mL) = 4.05mL to be added to the tank

 

[Hope_L]

Just read your entire thread and all I can say is WOW! Your tank is awesome! Also I wanted to ask, and this may be a stupid question, but I'm really new.... You have three plastic water jugs under your tank, I know you said one has some sort of alkalinity solution, can you go into detail about what each one is and how they work how, how they are fed into the system etc?

 

[ReefWreak]

Just read your entire thread and all I can say is WOW! Your tank is awesome! Also I wanted to ask, and this may be a stupid question, but I'm really new.... You have three plastic water jugs under your tank, I know you said one has some sort of alkalinity solution, can you go into detail about what each one is and how they work how, how they are fed into the system etc?

Hi Hope!

I'm glad you like my tank

Not a stupid question! The three jugs under my stand start with the standard top-off, which is fed via my new Tunze Nano Auto Top Off (ATO) unit. It has a float switch at the water line, held in place by magnets on both sides of the glass in the back. When the water line drops, the float switch triggers the Tunze controller unit, which then runs a pump in the first plastic jug. This jug is just water (or sometimes water with calcium hydroxide powder [kalkwasser]) and refills the back chambers until the float switch goes up again and turns the controller off.

The second and third jugs are for calcium and alkalinity dosing. As corals grow, they need calcium to build their structures (this applies to all corals, and most living things in general, not just SPS/acropora). Alkalinity impacts the concentration of calcium in the water and the availability of the calcium in the water for the organisms to pick up (not a very good explanation, but easy enough way to think about it; a much better explanation can be found here).

So one container is alkalinity concentrate, the other is calcium concentrate. They are both dissolved power forms, that I bought online from bulkreefsupply. I have a dosing pump for each of the liquids, and the dosing pumps are turned on and off by my aquarium controller, a Reefkeeper Lite. I programmed a timer for 2 outlets, so that I can control the amount of liquid that the pumps pump into my tank by changing how long each of the pumps receive power (since when they're on they're pumping, when they're off they are not pumping).

I tested my water to see how much alkalinity and calcium were being used weeky, and eventually set up the dosing pumps to add enough calcium and alkalinity to offset how much was being used by growth in my tank, so that the two values always stay at about the same level.

As my corals grow, they will need more and more calcium and alkalinity, and so I have been, and will have to, adjust the timer on those pumps to add more calcium and alkalinity solution over time.

For reference, each dosing pump has an inlet and outlet side. The inlet to the pump goes into the top of the 1 gallon containers, and the outlet goes out the back of the stand and into the hood. You can see in the picture from 8/19 how I ghetto rigged the dosing tubes so they didn't fall back down the back of the stand and on to the floor. Most people have a much nicer way of organizing them, but I'm too cheap to buy a holder and too lazy to invest a lot of time and energy to make it look nice. The way they're set up now works reasonably well.

Hope that helps, thanks for stopping by!

 

[Hope_L]

Hi Hope!



I'm glad you like my tank



Not a stupid question! The three jugs under my stand start with the standard top-off, which is fed via my new Tunze Nano Auto Top Off (ATO) unit. It has a float switch at the water line, held in place by magnets on both sides of the glass in the back. When the water line drops, the float switch triggers the Tunze controller unit, which then runs a pump in the first plastic jug. This jug is just water (or sometimes water with calcium hydroxide powder [kalkwasser]) and refills the back chambers until the float switch goes up again and turns the controller off.



The second and third jugs are for calcium and alkalinity dosing. As corals grow, they need calcium to build their structures (this applies to all corals, and most living things in general, not just SPS/acropora). Alkalinity impacts the concentration of calcium in the water and the availability of the calcium in the water for the organisms to pick up (not a very good explanation, but easy enough way to think about it; a much better explanation can be found here).



So one container is alkalinity concentrate, the other is calcium concentrate. They are both dissolved power forms, that I bought online from bulkreefsupply. I have a dosing pump for each of the liquids, and the dosing pumps are turned on and off by my aquarium controller, a Reefkeeper Lite. I programmed a timer for 2 outlets, so that I can control the amount of liquid that the pumps pump into my tank by changing how long each of the pumps receive power (since when they're on they're pumping, when they're off they are not pumping).



I tested my water to see how much alkalinity and calcium were being used weeky, and eventually set up the dosing pumps to add enough calcium and alkalinity to offset how much was being used by growth in my tank, so that the two values always stay at about the same level.



As my corals grow, they will need more and more calcium and alkalinity, and so I have been, and will have to, adjust the timer on those pumps to add more calcium and alkalinity solution over time.



For reference, each dosing pump has an inlet and outlet side. The inlet to the pump goes into the top of the 1 gallon containers, and the outlet goes out the back of the stand and into the hood. You can see in the picture from 8/19 how I ghetto rigged the dosing tubes so they didn't fall back down the back of the stand and on to the floor. Most people have a much nicer way of organizing them, but I'm too cheap to buy a holder and too lazy to invest a lot of time and energy to make it look nice. The way they're set up now works reasonably well.



Hope that helps, thanks for stopping by!

It definitely helps! Also makes me wish I would have put my tank on an actual stand instead of a little chest with drawers. Is this system something you would recommend to a beginner? I know you are a big advocate for keeping things simple for people just starting a tank. I am moving very slow with my tank as I don't want to fill it up too fast with a bunch of random stuff, I'm trying to take my time and carefully select each thing. Currently I only have 6 pieces in my tank and that's counting a teeny tiny Zoa. I have some other things I know I need to upgrade on my tank, but at what point would you suggest adding a system for top off/ dosing?

 

[soulpatch]

It definitely helps! Also makes me wish I would have put my tank on an actual stand instead of a little chest with drawers. Is this system something you would recommend to a beginner? I know you are a big advocate for keeping things simple for people just starting a tank. I am moving very slow with my tank as I don't want to fill it up too fast with a bunch of random stuff, I'm trying to take my time and carefully select each thing. Currently I only have 6 pieces in my tank and that's counting a teeny tiny Zoa. I have some other things I know I need to upgrade on my tank, but at what point would you suggest adding a system for top off/ dosing?

Top off can be done manually if you wish but an auto unit makes things run smoother and is easier. Dosing only needs to be done when your livestock starts depleting the levels in the tank. If you use a quality reef salt you will replenish those on every water change but at a certain point the water change is no longer enough OR the levels between water changes drop too much for some more sensitive corals like SPS.

I still have no reason to dose on my tank even though I have everything to do so. Kalk in my ATO container is enough to keep things happy and growing. This is why many of us advocate so heavily for spending the money on quality test kits so you can monitor your levels and know what is going on in your tank.

A beginner should NOT go about adding random things to a tank because older tanks have it. You need to add things to your tank as it requires it and for most new tanks that is a ways off...

 

[Hope_L]

Top off can be done manually if you wish but an auto unit makes things run smoother and is easier. Dosing only needs to be done when your livestock starts depleting the levels in the tank. If you use a quality reef salt you will replenish those on every water change but at a certain point the water change is no longer enough OR the levels between water changes drop too much for some more sensitive corals like SPS.



I still have no reason to dose on my tank even though I have everything to do so. Kalk in my ATO container is enough to keep things happy and growing. This is why many of us advocate so heavily for spending the money on quality test kits so you can monitor your levels and know what is going on in your tank.



A beginner should NOT go about adding random things to a tank because older tanks have it. You need to add things to your tank as it requires it and for most new tanks that is a ways off...

Thank you!!! I'm loving the info that this community has to offer and the willingness to share knowledge.
I'm home every day and I do weekly water changes like clock work, so I'm able to manually top off my tank as needed. Considering that everything in my tank in thriving at the moment I wouldn't randomly add anything just because it is what the more established tanks have. I am quickly learning that in this hobby it is important to be educated and able to anticipate what may be needed in the future.

 

[ReefWreak]

This

Top off can be done manually if you wish but an auto unit makes things run smoother and is easier.

and this

Dosing only needs to be done when your livestock starts depleting the levels in the tank.

and this

A beginner should NOT go about adding random things to a tank because older tanks have it. You need to add things to your tank as it requires it and for most new tanks that is a ways off...

and probably the most important part:

you can monitor your levels and know what is going on in your tank.

If you believe you are low on something, buy a test kit, if you are low, investigate why the level may be low, and correct the issue.

For where you are in the hobby, bi-weekly water changes (salinity checked with a refractometer!) are the most important thing you can do. Keep the nitrates down (basic hobby item to test for), and if things are doing well, growing, and coloring up, then you can look for the next steps (adding kalkwasser, 2-part dosing, etc). Until then, water changes and stability are the most important.

 

[ReefWreak]

Also, about the auto-top off, keep in mind this is the first time I have ever had one in 10 or so years of reefkeeping. I only did it because I really want to get this Tunze 9001 skimmer performing like I know it can, and it needs an absolutely stable water level to do that. So for the first time ever, I'm using an auto top off.

Before that specific reason, I've always just used the gallon jug in the stand and added water every day or two to bring the level up. My inhabitants have never (noticeably) been harmed by 2-4 days of not topping off water, but I also only evaporate a gallon every 2 weeks or so.

 

[Hope_L]

When you top off do you just use RO water or is it mixed with salt?
I got a refractometer last week and since then my salinity has been on point! Before that I was just using a cheepy hydrometer thing but it was proving to be consistently unreliable.
Also I change my water every week, mostly because I have a dendro that I target feed every night and I haven't gotten a skimmer yet. The skimmer is going to be my next purchase.
My mom has a test kit that we share and the owner of my LFS also said he will test my water any time I want or need him to.

 

[soulpatch]

It is ro water as you are replaceing the water that evaps over time. The salt remains though so you use RO water which mixes with the saltier water to keep your salinity stable.

You will have to watch if you skim wet like I do that you do not lose too much salt water to be replaced with RO or else your salinity will drop.

Unless you live at home with your mom and you both have reef test kits for calcium, alk, mag, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates you need to get your own. Too many things happen fast in our tanks and measurements need to be done. If you post anything along the lines of my fish died, my coral wont open, ect we will need those parameters so having your own kit is really essential.

I dont mean to be a D about it but this is one of those things you really should have gotten before splashing water in the tank.

 

[Hope_L]

It is ro water as you are replaceing the water that evaps over time. The salt remains though so you use RO water which mixes with the saltier water to keep your salinity stable.

You will have to watch if you skim wet like I do that you do not lose too much salt water to be replaced with RO or else your salinity will drop.

Unless you live at home with your mom and you both have reef test kits for calcium, alk, mag, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates you need to get your own. Too many things happen fast in our tanks and measurements need to be done. If you post anything along the lines of my fish died, my coral wont open, ect we will need those parameters so having your own kit is really essential.

I dont mean to be a D about it but this is one of those things you really should have gotten before splashing water in the tank.

My mom lives a block away and can be here in two minutes vice versa, if she isn't home we have keys to each others houses so I can't foresee a scenario where sharing the kit would be a problem. Even if both of our cars broke down simultaneously I could still walk to her house in minutes. I don't have a problem purchasing my own kit or spending money on the things I need to have a healthy tank. I'm not one of those people that jumped into this hobby head first without a second thought about what I needed to be successful. Also another reason am taking my time and adding new pieces at a slow pace.
I don't think you are being a D at all but I know that to experienced reef keepers it is aggravating when people jump into this and then don't have what they need but want help saving their tanks and could have avoided the problem in the first place if they had something as simple as a test kit to ensure that their water perimeters were where they needed to be.

 

[Hope_L]

Also I have seen a lot of posts about the reliability of certain test kits, in your opinion which one is the best on the market?

 

[soulpatch]

salifert or red sea.

I wouldnt touch API with a ten foot pole...

 

[Hope_L]

salifert or red sea.

I wouldnt touch API with a ten foot pole...

Thanks! And given the proximity of my house to my moms do you see a problem with us sharing a kit or do you still think it's a bad idea?

 

[ReefWreak]

FWIW I use Salifert, sometimes Elos, and I still use API for nitrate, nitrite, ammonia. It came with my tank, it's pretty cheap, and I feel at least for nitrate it's reliable, it's just not "high precision."

I think you're fine sharing kits. As long as you can test within 12-24 hours, you should be fine. The only thing you want (near) constant access to IMO is a refractometer, since you may need to make a quick emergency water change ASAP, so it helps if you can get saltwater made in an hour or something (my 5g bucket filled Sunday in about 1.5hrs; ideally you want to let salt mix age for 24 hours as well, but if it's an emergency it makes sense to ASAP).

 

[Hope_L]

FWIW I use Salifert, sometimes Elos, and I still use API for nitrate, nitrite, ammonia. It came with my tank, it's pretty cheap, and I feel at least for nitrate it's reliable, it's just not "high precision."

I think you're fine sharing kits. As long as you can test within 12-24 hours, you should be fine. The only thing you want (near) constant access to IMO is a refractometer, since you may need to make a quick emergency water change ASAP, so it helps if you can get saltwater made in an hour or something (my 5g bucket filled Sunday in about 1.5hrs; ideally you want to let salt mix age for 24 hours as well, but if it's an emergency it makes sense to ASAP).

Ok be prepared I'm about to sound like a true newbie.... So when I do a water change I should be mixing my saltwater letting it sit for 24hrs then do my water change?
I keep RO water on hand at all times but I don't have a RODI unit yet.

 

[soulpatch]

I hope you are keeping enough for multiple water changes when you cant get to a store for a couple days....

I dont let my water sit for 24 hours when I mix. I mix then heat it while it is agitated with a power head. When it is up to temp I put it into the tank. Preferably one woudl allow it to sit longer so that it could fully blend but the time it takes to get up to temp is long enough for crystal clear water for me...

 

[ReefWreak]

You don't need to let it age. Honestly it's probably a holdover from when salt didn't dissolve as quickly and cleanly. You just didn't want salt crystals to make it into your tank and land on a coral and burn it, or not have dissolved yet, so when it's fully dissolved the salinity is higher than you expected. I run my water to fill the bucket (or at least my 5g fill line), then heat it, usually overnight, though it doesn't take that long, I just don't have time to constantly attend to it. Then once it's up to temp, I add one cup of salt at a time, give it 10 minutes to dissolve, do the next cup, etc until the salinity measures 1.025/6 / 35ppt

There are a number of holdovers from the olden days of reefkeeping that I still do. Most of them are wastes of time, some of them potentially dangerous, most of them somewhere in between.