Refugium tips (formerly "flow rate thorugh a refugium")
- Thread starter gearhead
- Start date
Anthony Calfo
New member
the one flaw I see if the splash plate for the skimmer overflow water.
As it is here, it will spill over (more downward) and not splash horizontally.
That is to say... the way you have the plate mounted here will make the water fall over and down unless you measure the sump wall panel very carefully and make it so that it is just high enough to always keep water over the plate.
Else... it looks fab my friend
As it is here, it will spill over (more downward) and not splash horizontally.
That is to say... the way you have the plate mounted here will make the water fall over and down unless you measure the sump wall panel very carefully and make it so that it is just high enough to always keep water over the plate.
Else... it looks fab my friend
Anthony Calfo
New member
correct... sort of. Slide the plate down so that it is lower(!) than the sump wall/dam. Just slightly (say 1-2")
This will insure that the water overflowing the skimmer partition wall will spill over and crash down on the plate (since the sump wall maintains the water level higher) then be forced horizontally just across/under the surface of the refugium portion, creating the rolling water flow you seek.
This will insure that the water overflowing the skimmer partition wall will spill over and crash down on the plate (since the sump wall maintains the water level higher) then be forced horizontally just across/under the surface of the refugium portion, creating the rolling water flow you seek.
BrianPlankis
Premium Member
Thanks!
Thanks!
Anthony,
I just wanted to thank you for your assist in my design of my new sump. I had to go with the 29 due to space limitations, but it sure eased my mind about a flood, lots of extra room for water:
I unfortunately had to put my HOB skimmer into my sump as I didn't want to drill the 29 for the input pipe, so my cheato area is smaller than I want:
But, now my skimmer pump draws water from the top 4 inches of the water instead of the bottom 1 inch and in eight hours I already have this:
The picture doesn't show it, but it is dark green yummy skimmate. I also had 1 inch of dark green skimmate in my overflow bottle in 8 hours, looks like I'll need to empty my skimmate every 1-3 days, much better than the 3-5 days it took to get one cup with my old refuge/sump.
THANKS FOR THE INFO!
Brian
Thanks!
Anthony,
I just wanted to thank you for your assist in my design of my new sump. I had to go with the 29 due to space limitations, but it sure eased my mind about a flood, lots of extra room for water:
I unfortunately had to put my HOB skimmer into my sump as I didn't want to drill the 29 for the input pipe, so my cheato area is smaller than I want:
But, now my skimmer pump draws water from the top 4 inches of the water instead of the bottom 1 inch and in eight hours I already have this:
The picture doesn't show it, but it is dark green yummy skimmate. I also had 1 inch of dark green skimmate in my overflow bottle in 8 hours, looks like I'll need to empty my skimmate every 1-3 days, much better than the 3-5 days it took to get one cup with my old refuge/sump.
THANKS FOR THE INFO!
Brian
Anthony Calfo
New member
outstanding to hear!
It really is amazing what a properly installed skimmer can do.
When I tell folks that they can get daily(!) consistent skimmate... many are doubtful. Yet when you take the time to tweak and tun a good design, the results (skimmate and tank health long term) are impressive
It really is amazing what a properly installed skimmer can do.
When I tell folks that they can get daily(!) consistent skimmate... many are doubtful. Yet when you take the time to tweak and tun a good design, the results (skimmate and tank health long term) are impressive
mwood
Premium Member
Anthony, quick question. I've been reading about fuge flow rates and was wondering about sump flow rates. If you have the proper flow in your tank through closed loops, and the right flow going though a separate fuge, how much flow do you need going through a sump housing a skimmer and heater? I ask the question after reading an interesting thread about sending a thinner surface layer to the sump via smaller turnover rates. What do you think?
Marcus
Marcus
Anthony Calfo
New member
the sump loop can be rather slow and quiet. There is no hard and fast rule for minimums/max. You'll find that even the smaller duty pumps that will handle the job long term of even 4' head from the floor to the top of the tank, for example, are still going to give you at least 800-1000gph (as with a Quiet one, Mag 9, etc). This is a reasonable amount of flow for typical home aquariums 55-180 gall. And its more than enough for a skimmer to process organics.
charley75
New member
Anthony,
My question is similar to the one above regarding sump flow.
I am hoping to upggrade in the near future from my current 75 to a 180, and then use my 75 for my sump/fuge. The sump will have the skimmer section at one end, the fuge at the other end, and the return section in the middle. I am also planning on using a Reeflo Dart for a CL. With all the recent reading on sump flow I'm beginning to think that there's no need to buy a bigger return pump (currently using Mag9.5). I was also planning on having an overflow in each back corner of the tank with 1 1/2 drains. Is this unnecessary as well?
Can I just have one overflow in one corner(or center), split with a T feeding the skimmer and fuge sections (each controlled with a ball valve). Would this be the better thing to do?
Thanks,
Charley
My question is similar to the one above regarding sump flow.
I am hoping to upggrade in the near future from my current 75 to a 180, and then use my 75 for my sump/fuge. The sump will have the skimmer section at one end, the fuge at the other end, and the return section in the middle. I am also planning on using a Reeflo Dart for a CL. With all the recent reading on sump flow I'm beginning to think that there's no need to buy a bigger return pump (currently using Mag9.5). I was also planning on having an overflow in each back corner of the tank with 1 1/2 drains. Is this unnecessary as well?
Can I just have one overflow in one corner(or center), split with a T feeding the skimmer and fuge sections (each controlled with a ball valve). Would this be the better thing to do?
Thanks,
Charley
Anthony Calfo
New member
cheers, Charlie
indeed... you do not need a bigger pump to run the sump loop. Leave your CL pump to do the heavy duty while keeping your sump quiet and smooth running
But please do not tee the overflow drain. Ever. Never! A simply dreadful notion for many reasons re: complicated plumbing, handicapping the downstream skimmer, etc.
As for the overflow drains... you may want/need to keep these too. While you do not need a large sump pump, you do want large/quiet overflow drains. Displays are too commonly underdrilled. One 1.5" drains may handle the mag 9.5 at the head you likely have on it... but it will be operating on the high end of the range. Too risky for me. Drill a 2" hole or stick with your original plan for two 1.5" holes.
FWIW... I never liked refugia integrated into sumps. Too cramped, limited production from such small refugia... and unduly restricts sump proper volume/buffer.
indeed... you do not need a bigger pump to run the sump loop. Leave your CL pump to do the heavy duty while keeping your sump quiet and smooth running
But please do not tee the overflow drain. Ever. Never! A simply dreadful notion for many reasons re: complicated plumbing, handicapping the downstream skimmer, etc.
As for the overflow drains... you may want/need to keep these too. While you do not need a large sump pump, you do want large/quiet overflow drains. Displays are too commonly underdrilled. One 1.5" drains may handle the mag 9.5 at the head you likely have on it... but it will be operating on the high end of the range. Too risky for me. Drill a 2" hole or stick with your original plan for two 1.5" holes.
FWIW... I never liked refugia integrated into sumps. Too cramped, limited production from such small refugia... and unduly restricts sump proper volume/buffer.
charley75
New member
Anthony,
Thanks for the quick response. OK, so stick with the 2 drains....1 for skimmer, 1 for fuge. Is that enough flow through a fuge....roughly 400gph?
FWIW, I currently run a separate fuge, but am hoping to consolidate...also compromising with the wife by getting the fuge out of the utility room.
Charley
Thanks for the quick response. OK, so stick with the 2 drains....1 for skimmer, 1 for fuge. Is that enough flow through a fuge....roughly 400gph?
FWIW, I currently run a separate fuge, but am hoping to consolidate...also compromising with the wife by getting the fuge out of the utility room.
Charley
Anthony Calfo
New member
no worries, Charley
I'm wondering though if you cannot simply send all raw water to the skimmer compartment first... then have that overflow to the refugium compartment... which then overflows tot he sump compartment before being pumped back to the display?
It is very important if/when using a skimmer to send all raw water to it if possible.
Anth-
I'm wondering though if you cannot simply send all raw water to the skimmer compartment first... then have that overflow to the refugium compartment... which then overflows tot he sump compartment before being pumped back to the display?
It is very important if/when using a skimmer to send all raw water to it if possible.
Anth-
charley75
New member
Anthony,
Yeah, I could do that...I just though it was better to not skim the water from the refugium. I think I read that somewhere here on RC a while back. If that's the case and I only need one drain, does it matter where the overflow is....corner or center?
Thanks,
Charley
Yeah, I could do that...I just though it was better to not skim the water from the refugium. I think I read that somewhere here on RC a while back. If that's the case and I only need one drain, does it matter where the overflow is....corner or center?
Thanks,
Charley
Anthony Calfo
New member
it would depend on what you are growing in refugia... but most likely the optimal export of (accumulating) organics via the skimmer (getting all raw water) will likely serve the greater good if your tank is like most, my friend.
Anth-
Anth-
Anthony Calfo
New member
its no great matter overall... build it wherever it suits you best aesthetically, my friend.
charley75
New member
Anthony,
Would one 2" drain be enough for the Dart on a CL since the intake on the Dart is 2"? Also, do you think the Dart is powerful enough to adequately supply a perimeter manifold? I am wanting to drill the bottom for the overflow and the CL. For the CL intake, I was thinking of coming up from the bottom of the tank to a T with a 2" strainer on each side. Is this doable or would It still create too much suction and shred my inhabitants?
Thanks a bunch,
Charley
Would one 2" drain be enough for the Dart on a CL since the intake on the Dart is 2"? Also, do you think the Dart is powerful enough to adequately supply a perimeter manifold? I am wanting to drill the bottom for the overflow and the CL. For the CL intake, I was thinking of coming up from the bottom of the tank to a T with a 2" strainer on each side. Is this doable or would It still create too much suction and shred my inhabitants?
Thanks a bunch,
Charley
Anthony Calfo
New member
cheers, Charley
no... I rarely if ever recommend drilling the bottom of an aquarium. Undue risk and no practical service in most cases.
Feed/flood the pump from a 2" bulkhead that is about 1/3 down from the top of the tank. We don;t want to go down any further than we need to be safe in case of a bulkhead leak. But we do need to be down low enough to prevent the strong pump from sucking air.
As for the Dart on a manifold... do see if you can get at least 400gph from each 1/2-3/4 outlet (more if you are using larger tees). And see if you can come close to having one tee per ten gallons of water on the manifold loop.
no... I rarely if ever recommend drilling the bottom of an aquarium. Undue risk and no practical service in most cases.
Feed/flood the pump from a 2" bulkhead that is about 1/3 down from the top of the tank. We don;t want to go down any further than we need to be safe in case of a bulkhead leak. But we do need to be down low enough to prevent the strong pump from sucking air.
As for the Dart on a manifold... do see if you can get at least 400gph from each 1/2-3/4 outlet (more if you are using larger tees). And see if you can come close to having one tee per ten gallons of water on the manifold loop.
mr. maroon clown
New member
does anybody have any pics of chaeto? wanna see the good stuff
Similar threads
