Regal has ich for sure

UPDATE:
I have been using Metronidozole, Focus, and Garlic Guard for one week today. All my fish for the past 4 days have appeared ich free. They are all swimming great, eating like champs, and have clear eyes/skin. I know that everyone says that those types of medications won't treat or help ich so maybe I mis-diagnosed...or I got lucky. Also I understand the life cycle of ich so perhaps I am just in a lull and it will come back with vengeance in a couple of days. Everyone has their own opinions and have had their own experiences in this hobby and I taking the advice from my LFS and so far they haven't steered me wrong. Anyway, I have added a UV sterilizer and a protein skimmer to my tank.
 
Please believe me when I say this...we are here to help you. We have ZERO vesting interest in what you purchase other than to help the fish out. The store steering you towards these medications DO have an interest. Your money = their interest.

That said, you are wasting money on these bottles of 'instant ich cure' that don't work. You SHOULD be spending that money on a quality qt setup and beating the parasite that way. A UV sterilizer isn't going to touch the ich either.
 
The verdict is still out, but the chemical makeup of Cupramine suggests that is doesn't react with calcareous material. It's far less reactive then it's copper sulfate competitor[QUOTE}

Cupramine is an ionic copper. Also, I'm almost sure good carbon will remove copper sulfate.
I think there is a big difference between "absorb" and "react". From an saved email response from SeaChem, mfg of Cupramine: "Cupramine can definitely be absorbed onto the substrate and live rock when those things are present in the aquarium.* Really, anything that is porous has the potential to absorb Cupramine"

Cupramine is an organic compound, therefor it must be aminated .... copper sulfate is an ionic compound given the copper (cation) and sulfate (anion).

Carbon, no matter how good it is, will not remove copper sulfate because it is a salt, and in-organic.
 
Cupramine is an organic compound, therefor it must be aminated .... copper sulfate is an ionic compound given the copper (cation) and sulfate (anion).

Carbon, no matter how good it is, will not remove copper sulfate because it is a salt, and in-organic.

This is way above my paygrade, so I'll defer to you on copper sulfate just ask a few questions: 1.) If carbon doesn't remove CS, how do you remove it? 2.) I haven't heard anything about copper sulfate in quite a while, isn't it used a lot by pondkeepers? What is the major brand for SW fish hobbiests? 3.) Do you think CS demands more precise attention to dosing & monitoring than Cupramine? I could never read most copper test kits, which is how I switched to Cupramine. Thanks! I try, at my age, to still learn something every day and I'm just curious, I will never switch; I like the 'forgiveness' factor of Cupramine and treat all new fish with it in QT--as a prophylactic treatment. With Cupramine I can just run carbon (I prefer Cuprisorb) and don't have to empty my QT between fish.
 
This is way above my paygrade, so I'll defer to you on copper sulfate just ask a few questions: 1.) If carbon doesn't remove CS, how do you remove it? 2.) I haven't heard anything about copper sulfate in quite a while, isn't it used a lot by pondkeepers? What is the major brand for SW fish hobbiests? 3.) Do you think CS demands more precise attention to dosing & monitoring than Cupramine? I could never read most copper test kits, which is how I switched to Cupramine. Thanks! I try, at my age, to still learn something every day and I'm just curious, I will never switch; I like the 'forgiveness' factor of Cupramine and treat all new fish with it in QT--as a prophylactic treatment. With Cupramine I can just run carbon (I prefer Cuprisorb) and don't have to empty my QT between fish.

To remove copper sulfate, one would either need to do a 100% water change or use a binding agent like cuprisorb or filter material like polyfilter.

Red Sea's Paracure is the easiest brand to get, it comes with their copper kit, which by chance happens to be the easiest kit to use. The color change between the 0.05 increments is very easy to differentiate. The API and Salifert kit can be a royal PITA to read, I've used both and hate them for the lack of color change and poor resolution (API).

Copper Sulfate does require a little more attention to detail, maintaining the therapeutic level sometimes requires daily testing and dosing. In a tank devoid of calcareous material, the copper stays in the solution, and dosing isn't required that often. Most times it's fine, but if you need to QT a fish that needs sand like a wrasse or goby, daily dosing is essential.

I too choose a prophylactic approach, it's the best way IMO, a healthy fish will show no signs of infection, only to unknowingly drop a bomb in the tank later....not something I want to deal with.

FWIW, cupramine does work, just not quite as well as copper sulfate, I've had crypt make it through Cupramine treatments as well as chelated treatments, but never ionic copper.
 
Today is day 9 that all my fish appear ich free. They are all eating great, swimming great, not scratching or rubbing, and have no signs of ich. I am still treating their food with Metro.
 
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