Reid's 120g Oceanic Tech Build

[crvz]

Eh, I've had bubbles in my sumps, but they've never been a problem. If you do find a small leak, the easiest solution is to get your hands on some weldon 16. Not the most aesthetically pleasing solution, but it works well. I've always used 1/4" products in the past, but if I do something as large as I'm thinking I imagine bumping up the thickness will prove well adviced.

 

[guitar510]

hey reid, just had a crash course in the house build, tank basement build and wife getting antsy about a baby....jealous is an understatement...at least regarding the house and tank build

my wife is in the same place so i can relate...

nice to have dad involved in the project too...

looking forward to the progress, i'm tagging along

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15054061#post15054061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
What brand acrylic is that, and it was 1/4" right? I'm thinking about making a large frag tank (48"x30"x16"), and I'd bet I need something thicker than the 1/4" (especially seeing that it won't have baffles reinforcing it).

That's a lot of water. I would use 3/8" minimum, if you build it with a 3" top flange. The water level in the tank would be 13.5", right? If it was built 16" tall, take off 3/4" for the top and bottom piece, leaving you with 15.25" of vertical internal height. I'd imagine you'd want about 2" of void at the top so you can reach in and out, float stuff, etc..

3/8" should be good enough. That's 91.2g of water using internal measurements. If anything, I'd make it shallower, like 12" tall.

 

[crvz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15059185#post15059185 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
That's a lot of water. I would use 3/8" minimum, if you build it with a 3" top flange. The water level in the tank would be 13.5", right? If it was built 16" tall, take off 3/4" for the top and bottom piece, leaving you with 15.25" of vertical internal height. I'd imagine you'd want about 2" of void at the top so you can reach in and out, float stuff, etc..

3/8" should be good enough. That's 91.2g of water using internal measurements. If anything, I'd make it shallower, like 12" tall.

Thanks for the words, Marc. I was going to have a 3" flange/brace around the perimeter. I like the idea of going shallower, but it may turn into a holding tank for all my current inhabitants if we move (may happen in the next 6-9 months), so the extra depth would be useful if I'm cross-mojinizing. 1/2" acrylic isnt out of the question, but I got a quote for ~$200 for the half inch sheet (4'x8') vs. $160 for the 3/8" (and I'd need more than one sheet). Are those reasonable?

And now back to Reid's original programming.

 

[reidcrandall]

Chris,

$160ish was what I found here in Indy, so I think that's about right. Marc told me that about $100 for 1/4" sheets was average, and I paid $97 at that same place.

In other news, the sump survived a 4 hour water test without incident!

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15060262#post15060262 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
Thanks for the words, Marc. I was going to have a 3" flange/brace around the perimeter. I like the idea of going shallower, but it may turn into a holding tank for all my current inhabitants if we move (may happen in the next 6-9 months), so the extra depth would be useful if I'm cross-mojinizing. 1/2" acrylic isnt out of the question, but I got a quote for ~$200 for the half inch sheet (4'x8') vs. $160 for the 3/8" (and I'd need more than one sheet). Are those reasonable?

And now back to Reid's original programming.

1/2" would be best on that one. And yes, you'd end up needing two sheets. But it would look awesome. You could put a corner overflow like the one I made for our club. I can't post a picture of it due to sponsorship rules, but if you want to see a few pictures, PM me for a link.

Reid, glad to hear it is waterproof!

 

[Padrino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15054061#post15054061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
What brand acrylic is that, and it was 1/4" right? I'm thinking about making a large frag tank (48"x30"x16"), and I'd bet I need something thicker than the 1/4" (especially seeing that it won't have baffles reinforcing it).

I made a frag tankl a whil;e back which was 30x 19.5 x 14" and i used 3/8 acrylic to help prevent any bowing. I think 1/4" for your application you will see a lot of bowing unless you are making a sump with many baffles

 

[reidcrandall]

I've got several baffles in it. Looking back, I wish I had just played it safe and gone with the 3/8", but this is what I have for now. If it starts bowing too much or there are any other problems, I guess I will just make a new one out of 3/8".

 

[Padrino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15062622#post15062622 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reidcrandall
I've got several baffles in it. Looking back, I wish I had just played it safe and gone with the 3/8", but this is what I have for now. If it starts bowing too much or there are any other problems, I guess I will just make a new one out of 3/8".

i don't rmember what your dimensions were but you should be ok with the baffles and a eurobrace

 

[reidcrandall]

Marc:

Any advice on polishing the sump up? I have a few... inconsstencies, and ugly spots where the Weld On went a little wild on me.

 

[crvz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15065606#post15065606 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reidcrandall
Marc:

Any advice on polishing the sump up? I have a few... inconsstencies, and ugly spots where the Weld On went a little wild on me.

Flame polish. I use a butane soldering iron (a priceless tool if you ever do car audio installation), I think Marc uses a more standard blow torch but I'm not sure. You can't leave the flame in one spot for long, as the acrylic will catch on fire, but for a few seconds it will clean the smaller weld-on spots beautifully. I'll even polish the edges, but this takes longer and is more likely to result in a burn. If I were you, I'd get a scrap, polish the edge to see how long it takes, and then let it catch on fire so you know what to look for (it starts to bubble when you've been there too long, but before it catches fire).

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15065833#post15065833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
Flame polish. I use a butane soldering iron (a priceless tool if you ever do car audio installation), I think Marc uses a more standard blow torch but I'm not sure. You can't leave the flame in one spot for long, as the acrylic will catch on fire, but for a few seconds it will clean the smaller weld-on spots beautifully. I'll even polish the edges, but this takes longer and is more likely to result in a burn. If I were you, I'd get a scrap, polish the edge to see how long it takes, and then let it catch on fire so you know what to look for (it starts to bubble when you've been there too long, but before it catches fire).

This sounds scary.

 

[reidcrandall]

What about the really nasty areas? There are a couple of areas where the Weld On crept under a panel and took on the texture of the sheet that it was sitting on.

 

[crvz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15065847#post15065847 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reidcrandall
This sounds scary.

only if youre under-insured.

 

[melev]

Don't worry about it. Once it is full of water, it is essentially invisible.

If you want to try to erase some spots, you can run a torch over the area briefly. There is no hurry. Heat it up, get the flame away. Try again in a few minutes after it has time to cool, just to be cautious.

You can also take a dab (literally!) of Acetone and swipe the spot to see if that helps erase it. Do NOT use Acetone on warm or hot acrylic, as it will instantly craze. This is an alternative to torching a spot. Even cool acrylic can craze with too much.

Again, as crvz suggested, do it on a scrap piece.

Also, never flame polish any glued joints, period. Just leave them be. If you want to flame polish the inner edge of the top flange, or the top of the baffles and bubble tower, that's fine. Just don't heat up welded areas.

 

[reidcrandall]

Progress Update

Progress Update

I've got some pics coming tonight, but no time to post now.

The stands for the frag tank and sump are painted and done. The sump is drilled. We will soon be carrying them downstairs and getting the rest of the plumbing hooked up. Then water!

Marc, I think you are right. I am not going to mess with polishing. It's not like anyone will see the sump anyway. I just need it to hold.

After 6 weeks, and giving up on the crab trap in with the rocks, it has yielded results. There was a little crab when I looked in there today. Hadn't looked in for a couple of weeks, because I thought all was clear, so the crab was dead. I wonder what else ishanging out in there that continues to outsmart me...

 

[Taqpol]

Excited for water?

I forgot, what were you trying to trap from your rocks and why?

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15068547#post15068547 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Taqpol
Excited for water?

I forgot, what were you trying to trap from your rocks and why?

I'm trying to trap any unwanted crabs. This tank shall be crab free!

Working on a photo update right now. Stay tuned!

 

[reidcrandall]

Definatey excited to get water in the system. Look at it go!

Mix, water, Mix!

Lots of progress today. I got the sump stand and frag tank that we built yesterday primed and painted. I painted everything that might come in contact ith water. Better safe than sorry...

The frag tank and sump were drilled for what will become clear later.

Started getting the fish room arranged to get everything plumbed together tomorrow:

The sump stand and the frag tank stand are right next to each other. One of the return pumps will split off from the manifold to supply the frag tank, and it will drain back into the sump via gravity.

 

[Taqpol]

Did you know that you had crabs in the rock, or was it just a prophylactic step?

Oh man I wish i had a fish room right now. That setup looks so clean and simple!