Reid's 120g Oceanic Tech Build

[AJP]

Why do you need 12-16 gate valves? One on the return line, one on the drain line, one on the closed loop line, 3 total.

 

[crvz]

I'd also look at where you're putting the ball valves. If you want fine control (such as return pump, skimmer, etc.), get gate valves. If you want on/off control (drains, some close loop applications, etc.) just use the ball valves.

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641257#post14641257 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AJP
Why do you need 12-16 gate valves? One on the return line, one on the drain line, one on the closed loop line, 3 total.

I'm going to be putting together a manifold to run carbon, phosphate reactor, calc reactor and the like off of as well. Would ball valves work for that or do you recommend gate valves there as well?

 

[AJP]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641277#post14641277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reidcrandall
I'm going to be putting together a manifold to run carbon, phosphate reactor, calc reactor and the like off of as well. Would ball valves work for that or do you recommend gate valves there as well?

If you just need on off then ball valves are fine, if you need to control or fine tune the flow then go with gate valves.

 

[reidcrandall]

Good deal. I will do a gate on the returns, would you recommend needing to really fine tune carbon and phosban? I am going to get a needle valve on the calcium reactor when I get it so that I can really dial that in.

 

[AJP]

I would not think you would I would assume that on off would be fine.

 

[Padrino]

Reid personally i would use a pinpoint ph probe rather than the lab grade from neptune. many people will tell you the same.

Also you SHOULD NOT be using the ball valves from lowes. Those are hard to turn and are white? they have a type of gasket that will leach in salt water and become hard and even worse to turn later on. spend the 22 dollars or whatever. Go to a plumbing store that sells quality true union ball valves that use an EPDM gasket. i think i spent anywhere from 20-33 per valve.

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641569#post14641569 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Padrino
Reid personally i would use a pinpoint ph probe rather than the lab grade from neptune. many people will tell you the same.

Also you SHOULD NOT be using the ball valves from lowes. Those are hard to turn and are white? they have a type of gasket that will leach in salt water and become hard and even worse to turn later on. spend the 22 dollars or whatever. Go to a plumbing store that sells quality true union ball valves that use an EPDM gasket. i think i spent anywhere from 20-33 per valve.

Good deal. Thank you for the advice. I'll definately take the Lowes valves back. I had a bad feeling about them when I got them home and started playing with them. Apparently my concerns were well founded!

Are any of the probes on the ACIII worth anything, or should I be basically using it as an expensive timer?

 

[Padrino]

ohh no thats not what i meant. Use pinpoint probes on the AC3, they connect to the AC3 teh same way the neptune ones do, They are just better quality. Absolutely use the probe ports on the AC3.

 

[reidcrandall]

Ahhhhh... gotcha. I'm a bit slow

I assume you'd recommend the Pinpoint ORP probe as well?

 

[melev]

I don't have anything to add to this thread, because I'm too jealous of your beautiful house. Plus you get snow to boot! So unfair.



















Your sump looks fine, as does the plumbing. The advice I've read in this thread is good. :thumbsup:

 

[Padrino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641706#post14641706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reidcrandall
Ahhhhh... gotcha. I'm a bit slow

I assume you'd recommend the Pinpoint ORP probe as well?

i don't have one as i am using two pinpoint PH probes with my AC3. One in my calcium reactor the other in the sump. Based on what i have read through reef central and from the gentlemen at premium aquatics, The pinpoint probes are a more reliable quality probe. I cannot tell you from experience because i have never owned anything else.

 

[crvz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14642859#post14642859 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I don't have anything to add to this thread, because I'm too jealous of your beautiful house. Plus you get snow to boot! So unfair.

It hurts me to participate for the same reasons, but I just swallow the envy and try to push through.

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14642859#post14642859 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I don't have anything to add to this thread, because I'm too jealous of your beautiful house. Plus you get snow to boot! So unfair.

Your sump looks fine, as does the plumbing. The advice I've read in this thread is good. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the compliment on the house, but as far as the snow... you can have it! It's far less fun when you actually have to live in it. Just ask Padrino, who has to deal with CANADIAN snow!

I am getting ready to maked my sump, and have been consulting your website, and I am a little unsure of the best way to prepare the cut edges to make the best bond. I see your scraper tool, but could use a little bit of direction as far as the process I need to go through to get a good edge. Any help would be fantastic!

 

[sbs5950]

cool build!

Good luck with everything! Following along! :rollface:

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14644447#post14644447 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sbs5950
cool build!

Good luck with everything! Following along! :rollface:

Welcome, Thanks for checking it out. welcome to Reef Centeral as well!

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14644021#post14644021 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reidcrandall
Thanks for the compliment on the house, but as far as the snow... you can have it! It's far less fun when you actually have to live in it. Just ask Padrino, who has to deal with CANADIAN snow!

I am getting ready to maked my sump, and have been consulting your website, and I am a little unsure of the best way to prepare the cut edges to make the best bond. I see your scraper tool, but could use a little bit of direction as far as the process I need to go through to get a good edge. Any help would be fantastic!

After you've cut the pieces to size, you only have to prep the edges that will bond to the next piece. The edges you'll be routing off later don't need to be cleaned up, since they are waste.

The front & back piece need the upper and lower edge cleaned up, but not the ends.

The end pieces need the upper & lower edges cleaned up, as well as the left and right side. All four edges will be bonded to something.

All the baffles need to be cleaned up on all four sides.

Once you have the piece stable before you, you can hold a utility knife razor blade with both hands, and drag it across the edge, pulling it toward you. You want to hold the blade perpendicular to the material, raking the rough stuff off and creating a smoother surface. Try to keep it very square with the piece, and avoid creating a dip or crater. It should be as straight and smooth as possible, without beveling it.

Another method that is a little more tiring is to lay the piece down on a flat surface with the lip barely hanging over the edge of the workbench, and lightly sanding it, again keeping the sanding block flat to avoid beveling or rounding-over those edges.

I use a jointer, a machine that has a spinning blade the quickly cleans up those edges.

The best system is a large router table, as the edge will be perfect for bonding, but most of us do not have that type of set up. Maybe some day I'll build one.

 

[reidcrandall]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14645351#post14645351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
After you've cut the pieces to size, you only have to prep the edges that will bond to the next piece. The edges you'll be routing off later don't need to be cleaned up, since they are waste.

The front & back piece need the upper and lower edge cleaned up, but not the ends.

The end pieces need the upper & lower edges cleaned up, as well as the left and right side. All four edges will be bonded to something.

All the baffles need to be cleaned up on all four sides.

Once you have the piece stable before you, you can hold a utility knife razor blade with both hands, and drag it across the edge, pulling it toward you. You want to hold the blade perpendicular to the material, raking the rough stuff off and creating a smoother surface. Try to keep it very square with the piece, and avoid creating a dip or crater. It should be as straight and smooth as possible, without beveling it.

Another method that is a little more tiring is to lay the piece down on a flat surface with the lip barely hanging over the edge of the workbench, and lightly sanding it, again keeping the sanding block flat to avoid beveling or rounding-over those edges.

I use a jointer, a machine that has a spinning blade the quickly cleans up those edges.

The best system is a large router table, as the edge will be perfect for bonding, but most of us do not have that type of set up. Maybe some day I'll build one.

I may just sand it while it is clamped to the edge of the table saw. The blade makes me a bit nervous, as I fear I may gouge the acrylic.

 

[melev]

It never hurts to practice on scrap material.

 

[crvz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14645741#post14645741 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
It never hurts to practice on scrap material.

Or your thumb. Wait, no, that does and did hurt.