Return bulkhead leaking

praveen956

New member
The return bulkhead is leaking. Not sure how to fix. I cannot remove the bulkhead as i had installed a 90 fitting (slip). i used Teflon tape with no help.

Its a 1.5 inch bulkhead with 65 mm hole.. please let me know any suggestions..

https://youtu.be/8XsDKF2X6gs


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Do you have the washers on both sides, i use them everyday for work and never had this issue. Remove the tape or whatever is in the way of creating a clean seal.

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Thanks for your response!! Washer is on the wet side only.. let me visit Home Depot and get a washer for the other side..


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Thanks for your response!! Washer is on the wet side only.. let me visit Home Depot and get a washer for the other side..


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If you absolutely can't get one on you could try water bond... It's two part epoxy made for fixing plumbing. I'm not sure on the reef application but I've used it in ponds and for potable drinking water.. if there's minimal contact with the auctual tank water I'd try making a washer like piece out of that. If you can let it dry you could try a liquid gasket material then there's no need to remove anything.

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Here's what the assembly should look like, i believe you need the white more ridged washer.
a995621009ce76cd824b63473296f2f0.jpg


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The return bulkhead is leaking. Not sure how to fix. I cannot remove the bulkhead as i had installed a 90 fitting (slip). i used Teflon tape with no help.

Its a 1.5 inch bulkhead with 65 mm hole.. please let me know any suggestions..

https://youtu.be/8XsDKF2X6gs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take the teflon tape off for sure. Use a SMALL amount of silicone grease on the rubber washer. Dry the washer first. Then hand tighten the bulk head. If it's still leaking, do a quarter of a turn with a bulkhead wrench. If it's still leaking, you might need a new bulkhead or gasket. I recently had trouble with a large bulkhead leaking and just loosened it and tightened it until I found the sweet spot. It was not leaking like that though, maybe a drip every 4-5 seconds.
 
Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks

Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?!
a3ac6b4b549f42360e6737ae6589b832.jpg


cc3c68c0d1239375408bbf8565f81f70.jpg



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No silicone, especially the one you posted with mold prevention chemicals. The silicone I was talking about is a grease. It's used to lubricate the washer. This looks very similar to the stuff I use:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/10/12/plumbing_to_pump-33.jpg

I use a small amount on the o-rings on my unions as well.
What he is talking about is silicone lubricant, it helps your rubber wear better. It is also sold as 'o' ring lubricant and gasket grease, or their similar enough for this application. This won't seal the gap itself but may help the washer seal it by keeping it more plyable.

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Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks

Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?!
a3ac6b4b549f42360e6737ae6589b832.jpg


cc3c68c0d1239375408bbf8565f81f70.jpg



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That doesn't look like the right washer to me? You want the ridged kind on the outside.

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If it's done right there would be no need for a washer on dry side not any silicone.
Rest anything you do it's accident waiting to happen.
Need to open the bulk head enough to clean under the washer and retighten.
 
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Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks

Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?!
a3ac6b4b549f42360e6737ae6589b832.jpg


cc3c68c0d1239375408bbf8565f81f70.jpg



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Do you have reef epoxy? I'd try a generous hunk of that if so you know it's safe and very similar to water bond if it's not the same thing with a different name.

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If it's done right there would be no need for a washer on dry side not any silicone.
Rest anything you do it's accident waiting to happen.
Need to open the bulk head enough to clean under the washer and retighten.
Bulk heads come with washers for both sides, I understand some may not use them but to say their completely not needed may be an overstatement.

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Sometimes there is a burr on the nut from the manufacturing process which prevents the gasket from sealing properly. Take the nut off, clean up any debris or burrs, retighten, and hope that fixes it.
 
Bulk heads come with washers for both sides, I understand some may not use them but to say their completely not needed may be an overstatement.

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Every bulkhead I've ever used only had 1 washer, and it goes on the wet side.

If sealed properly there is no need for a gasket on the nut side. Besides the twisting action of tightening the nut would cause the gasket to bunch up and not have a very good seal.
 
First, is the gasket on the wet side damaged at all? If so, it needs to be replaced. Make sure you get a gasket made to fit your bulkhead if needed.

The teflon tape shouldn't have anything to do with it as it's not leaking from the threads, unless it's between the bulkhead nut and the glass. Really, if done correctly, water should not make it to the threads. But I agree, there should be no need for it. There should also be no need for a gasket on the dry side.

I'd remove the bulkhead, clean the glass on BOTH sides, make sure there is absolutely nothing between the bulkhead on the wet and dry sides, and reassemble. Do not over tighten. Hand tight really should be sufficient. If you start cranking down too much you will damage the gasket. DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALANT! Especially the stuff you posted a picture of. Anything with a mold resistant agent is a big no-no. If you still have a leak, and it's possible to do so, replace the bulkhead. If that isn't possible, you can try a small amount of silicone grease between the gasket and the glass. I use Aladdin Magic Lube II. Works wonders.
 
Every bulkhead I've ever used only had 1 washer, and it goes on the wet side.

If sealed properly there is no need for a gasket on the nut side. Besides the twisting action of tightening the nut would cause the gasket to bunch up and not have a very good seal.
I'll have to agree to disagree ;)
The bulkheads I use all look like the pic I posted. A ridged washer goes on the outside so it does not bunch this comes with the bulkhead. But I also buy them in bulk from the same supplyer all the time for our business so I always get the same ones and will continue to do so since I never had any issues with leaking like this ;)

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I agree with Bnumair & homer. I would quit messing with the nutt side of the bulkhead. U don’t need a washer, silicone, Teflon or anything else on the nutt side of the bulkhead. In fact by doing so u can do more harm then good. It is the flange side of the bulkhead that is causing the leak. Imo overtighting the bulkheads is what causes most of them to leak.

Has the tank been setup & it just started leaking or has it been leaking since water has been in the tank? How did u tighten the bulkhead, by hand or did u use a tool?

When installing a bulkhead they only need to be a little more then hand tight. If u tighten it by hand u should only need to tighten it another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn with a tool. It depends on the individual & how tight they can get it by hand. I usually hand tighten them then I will do a leak test. Usually they are fine but if they have a small leak I will tighten it a little at a time until it stops.

I would start by loosening the nutt as much as possible so u can slide the bulkhead into the tank. Then try to clean the flange, glass & washer as much as possible. Once u get it clean, slide to bulkhead back thru the hole & make sure it is centered on the hole. Then tighten it back down the correct way.

If that doesn’t work u will have to replace the bulkhead. It is possible that the gasket is bad. One thing to keep in mind next time is to keep a little space inbetween the fitting & the union u installed. If u left 1” to 1.5” inbetween the 90 & the Union u could cut the pipe just below the 90 & still have enough pipe left to install another 90 or a coupling. I try to keep that in mind when doing plumbing. It’s the same concept at the bulkhead. If u left 1” inbetween the bulkhead & the 90 u would be able to cut the pipe right at the bulkhead & have enough room to install a coupling or just slide the pipe straight into the new bulkhead.
 
I'll have to agree to disagree ;)
The bulkheads I use all look like the pic I posted. A ridged washer goes on the outside so it does not bunch this comes with the bulkhead. But I also buy them in bulk from the same supplyer all the time for our business so I always get the same ones and will continue to do so since I never had any issues with leaking like this ;)

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I agree some bulkheads do have a washer on the nutt side but 90% of the bulkheads used in the hobby do not have a washer on the nutt side. By using a washer on the nutt side it is more likely to cause a leak then to prevent one. In the op’s case, that bulkhead is meant for only one washer & it is meant to be on the flange side.

Op, if the washer is a little damaged u can put silicone on both sides of the washer & it should fix the leak. I would recommend against it though & I would change out the bulkhead before I went that route. The reason I wouldn’t use silicone is because u would have to let it cure fully before putting it back in use & that could take anywhere from 5 days to 14 or so days depending on the silicone. Personally, I let it cure a minimum of 14 days before putting any silicone in use on my systems. U can use whatever silicone u want as long as it is fully cured before getting wet. Any silicone is safe once fully cured, it is not letting it fully cure that causes issues
 
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