Return Pump for 180 gallon reef ready??

Would a Sicce 4 or 5 work for my situation? I used to have a mag 12 years ago and it do okay but seemed too weak. The 18 seems much better. I understand what folks are saying about slowing things down for better skimmer and filter efficiencies. I just have no experience with other pumps and want some thoughts. I have a 135 reef ready not 125.
 
I have the same tank (m-land 180 rr) and I run an eheim 1262. It also feeds my fuge and a carbon/ gfo reactor. If I take the reactor offline the extra flow back to the tank causes the drains to gurgle a bit.
 
I would go with the Sicce, but I would use the Sicce 4.0
Or a Eheim 1262 which I am using on my 240 as my return pump.
 
I am thinking of purchasing a new 180g and using my 125g as a sump/fuge/ro water reservoir for my ATO/w 4 reactors plumbed in/return- under the 180g. Still figuring the layout and technicalities. Would a Sicci 5 be too powerful then? Maybe I should trade it in for a Sicci 4?
 
It will have a hob overflow and thinking it will also need a longer of box as well. The tank is not drilled.
 
If you are buying new, do yourself a favor and get it drilled (either by the LFS or DiY). Vastly superior to HOB IMO/E.
 
It's a used thank and looks like a marineland perfecto. No leaks, looks great for $150. Nervous about someone ( especially me) drilling it. But yes I agree.
 
Also, if i was to drill it, i will need 2 returns 1 for my SB spraybar with antisyphon and 1 that is mid level since this will be a peninsula tank and everything is at one end except PHs. Before anyone says anything about the spray bar it works beautiful! I have it in my 125 G and it is working perfectly to keep continuous flow through my Rock Ridge. I've had several power outages since placing it in the tank, and it has never over flowed the sump.
 
I wouldnt worry about drilling the tank, just use a eshopps overflow or the life reef overflow, they use u-tubes and they dont fail. As for a pump I use a dc-6000 on my 210, uses little energy and has enough power to run reactors and other items you want.
 
I wouldnt worry about drilling the tank, just use a eshopps overflow or the life reef overflow, they use u-tubes and they dont fail. As for a pump I use a dc-6000 on my 210, uses little energy and has enough power to run reactors and other items you want.

Thank you :) I've never hear of life reef so I'm going to check them out. Right now i am using the second largest eshopps overflow. It has broken syphen before but due to high/low wave action from the wp40 at the far end of the tank. Had to lower tge box and it was fine after. My pumps right now are mag 9.5s (1 for each return) I want 1 to do the whole job if I can. I'll check out the dc- 6000!
 
If there is even a slight chance to get the tank drilled I would.
After dealing with the issues of overflow boxes for several years, I bit the bullet and dragged a 135 gallon tank to a glass shop and had them do it.
After that was done, I realized what a relief it is not to have that worry any more.
 
At the time which was in 1995 or so, it was $30. Which at the time was a lot.
I doubt it would be much more now.
Local fish stores would probably know where you could get it done.
Plus there is a company on the internet that sells kits to drill it yourself.
 
Keep in mind tho that if the tank breaks, your stuck as most shops wont cover breakage. Thats why I didnt go get mine drilled, too much financial risk for me. My eshopps has been running for 3 years and never had a problem restarting the siphon.
 
Thank you. I will need 4 holes drilled. So that worries me. Below is a general rough draft of what i was thinking if i get it drilled. Bottom half of the page is the DT, top is 125g sump.
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Keep in mind tho that if the tank breaks, your stuck as most shops wont cover breakage. Thats why I didnt go get mine drilled, too much financial risk for me. My eshopps has been running for 3 years and never had a problem restarting the siphon.

I know, that's my main concern. :banghead:
 
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