Return pump question
- Thread starter x0xvi3t
- Start date
davocean
Active member
The Eheim compacts are not made by Eheim, they just took over someone elses brand on that one, and they don't get very good reviews.
I would be looking at the original Eheim 1262 or 1260 depending on drain size/overflow, or a Tunze, a lot of people seem to like the fluvals.
I would be looking at the original Eheim 1262 or 1260 depending on drain size/overflow, or a Tunze, a lot of people seem to like the fluvals.
Bent
I got nothin'
Well it's going to depend on a bunch of factors.
Ideally you want the return flow at 10x the display tank volume.
So 125-10 for displacement (rock and sand and such.). That's about 115 total gallons. 115x10=1150gph through the display.
Then you need to factor in your plumbing. Are you teeing off to run some reactors? How much head space? Any bends? What size piping?
Generally, plumbing wise, my rule of thumb at this point after the fiasco that was my return pump is at least 1.5x the outlet size. I.e if the return pump has an outlet size of 3/4" then you want piping at least 1.125 (round it up to 1.25"). This way the pump has little to no pressure to work against. Then you have your head height. Are you pumping from the stand or from a basement or what?
Then you have to consider the skimmer. If you are using a skimmer that is rated for 400gph, then putting 1100gph through the sump is a tad pointless. Which, in this example, you would need a bigger skimmer. Always size the skimmer for the 10x turnover IMO.
All of these will decide how much oomph your return pump needs. So to recap, where what we need to know to size it properly.
1: head height
2: amount of horizontal runs
3: amount of elbows
4: return piping size (1.5x the outlet)
5: amount of rock and sand (to calculate displacement)
6: additional accessories to be fed from the pump. (Reactors, UV, Etc. if any)
7: skimmer size.
Ideally you want the return flow at 10x the display tank volume.
So 125-10 for displacement (rock and sand and such.). That's about 115 total gallons. 115x10=1150gph through the display.
Then you need to factor in your plumbing. Are you teeing off to run some reactors? How much head space? Any bends? What size piping?
Generally, plumbing wise, my rule of thumb at this point after the fiasco that was my return pump is at least 1.5x the outlet size. I.e if the return pump has an outlet size of 3/4" then you want piping at least 1.125 (round it up to 1.25"). This way the pump has little to no pressure to work against. Then you have your head height. Are you pumping from the stand or from a basement or what?
Then you have to consider the skimmer. If you are using a skimmer that is rated for 400gph, then putting 1100gph through the sump is a tad pointless. Which, in this example, you would need a bigger skimmer. Always size the skimmer for the 10x turnover IMO.
All of these will decide how much oomph your return pump needs. So to recap, where what we need to know to size it properly.
1: head height
2: amount of horizontal runs
3: amount of elbows
4: return piping size (1.5x the outlet)
5: amount of rock and sand (to calculate displacement)
6: additional accessories to be fed from the pump. (Reactors, UV, Etc. if any)
7: skimmer size.
Bent
I got nothin'
Yeah that's a good point too.
The reason I always say 10 is because I've always had the tendency to over estimate what my pump can do. So if I shot for 10, then I had room to add things to the pump and all in all probably ended up at 5x realistically.
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
+1 also keep in mind your tank can only handle the drains that are in the tank.
Bent
I got nothin'
AC= alternating current. DC=direct current.
DC pumps take the AC power from the house socket, convert it to DC and then can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of electricity going to the pump. You can't adjust the amount of power going to something that uses AC power. It's either on or off. (Light bulb dimmers are a different ball game).
So a standard AC pump would be a non-DC pump that is either on or off. You can adjust the amount of output from these pumps by installing a valve on the output and physically dialing it back.
Two different ways to achieve the same goal, but standard AC pumps are quite a bit cheaper than most DC pumps. Just depends on your preference. I was trying to tell you that if you are getting a DC pump simply because it's adjustable, the Standard AC pumps are adjustable too for the most part. I didn't want that one option to be the male or break for you between the two options.
DC pumps take the AC power from the house socket, convert it to DC and then can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of electricity going to the pump. You can't adjust the amount of power going to something that uses AC power. It's either on or off. (Light bulb dimmers are a different ball game).
So a standard AC pump would be a non-DC pump that is either on or off. You can adjust the amount of output from these pumps by installing a valve on the output and physically dialing it back.
Two different ways to achieve the same goal, but standard AC pumps are quite a bit cheaper than most DC pumps. Just depends on your preference. I was trying to tell you that if you are getting a DC pump simply because it's adjustable, the Standard AC pumps are adjustable too for the most part. I didn't want that one option to be the male or break for you between the two options.
