Revamping older DIY LED fixture

[el aguila]

I enjoy DIY projects, but I'll make it clear that I am a total job when it comes to electronics.

I have some of my older drivers starting to go out, so rather than just replacing old school drivers with the same thing. I'm thinking about upgrading.

I built the first lower portion of the fixture on my 190G by following instructions from Soundwaves LED thread. Fixture had 88RB and 40CW all wired in parallel series. Used a Typhoon controller.

At a later date, I added an upper portion to the fixture that had 20 purple, 4 red, 4 cyan, 18 blue, and 6 WW.

Below is a thread with some pics and a little more of a description:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2416792

 

[mcgyvr]

Was there a question?

 

[el aguila]

Was there a question?

Sorry I'm at work, thought that I had a little time, and things got crazy. Presently working 7 days a week 12-14 hours a day.

I'll continue possibly with questions one at a time rather than all at once.

 

[el aguila]

Back again. Even though I’m super busy now, things should slow down in a week or two and I’ld like to start purchasing things.

1. The reason that I’m looking at doing this is my drivers. I’ve been reading the Meanwell LDD dimming thread and thinking of going with these drivers on the Steve’s boards for them. I’ll be rewiring LEDs also and taking them off the parallel series.

Does anyone have experience with Steve’s boards for the LDDs? I’m assuming that they would be relatively easy to wire to LEDs, controller, and power supply.

Would I be just as well off to have some of O2Surplus’ boards printed from the LDD dimming thread?

2. I’ll mount the boards, controller, and power supplies inside of the AL frame enclosures just like my present drivers are mounted. I may see if I can get a fan to blow through the enclosure with the power supplies at the downwind portion of the enclosure. Any concerns there considering the number of power supplies that it will take to power more or less 170 LEDs?

On my lower fixture when rewiring the LEDs, I’m going to swap out some of the RBs and CWs for violets (thinking about Steve’s), a few WW, and the blues on the upper portion of my fixture.

Upper fixture I’ll add a few more red and some lime green.

Channels - 1 RB and blue, 2 mixture of CW and WW, 3. Violet, 4. Red, 5. Cyan an LG, 6. Possibly have a moonlight.

3. Considering 170 LEDs on 6 channels with the LDDs, any recommendations on a HLG Meanwell power supply?

4. Thinking of going with Bluefish mini so that I have 6 channels and I like the WiFi capability. Any easy mods to the Typhoon to get these options from it or are there any other controllers that I might want to consider?


That’s all that I have time for now. Thanks for the help.

 

[lingwendil]

For the LDD boards Steve's LEDs or RapidLED are both good options, and save the fuss of rolling your own. If you need to buy the LDDs both vendors carry them, as does LEDsupply, which works out to free shipping on small orders, which can save a ton.

These are handy-
https://www.stevesleds.com/LDD-Driver-Array--8X-Drivers_p_306.html


Steve's LEDs for the violets for sure, they consistently offer great bins and have excellent customer service, at very good prices.

I suggest you try the new Luxeon "mint" that they carry too- it's like a lime with more 445nm blue in it, I've used them and really like them. Maybe grab a few to play with.

 

[oreo57]

4) No though it's just Aduino based.. the "easy" part is a bigger question
3)One that fits..

1) Prefer RapidLED boards because I detest th non-removable (except solder/saw 10kOhm pull down resistors.) pull downs.
RapidLED uses jumpers..so you can put them in or out ..

Keep in mind UV's are rated at like 1000 hours..YMMV.. Keep milliamps low..
OPP's violets, not quite the same..

As to ps's.. higher the voltage, less drivers, less amps..
@ 48 V 12 drivers high estimate 12A ps..

@ 24V 24 drivers 24A..

simplistic (and only rough ballpark and can be high) add driver amps.

 

[el aguila]

So would 3 HLG 240H drivers be a good choice to power approximately 170 LEDs?


https://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-hlg-240h-c1400a/

 

[el aguila]

Or is this one better?

https://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-se-350-48/

I’m going to have to admit that there are so many different PS that I’m lost on trying to figure what is best to power the LDDs/LEDs.

 

[oreo57]

The LDD's take over the driver function so all you need is a switching power supply..
Now one or more is a choice, based more on cost..

This will handle up to 1000W of LEd's ,at a cost
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/...MIl6uk1duG4AIVBJFpCh3KsQrqEAkYByABEgIa0fD_BwE

Single power supply >500W...or close..
Need the driver current and string V(f)'s to get closer
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ori...48V-meanwell-ac-dc-switching/32793490835.html
That MAY work..


Cheaper is like 2 of these:
LRS-350-48
I don't "do" 2 ps systems so others can comment about them. Technically easy .. just not me..


170 diodes x 3W (11A w/ 11 @1000mA drivers @ 48V)....only a guesstimate of real wattage..

 

[oreo57]

Need more info..
anyways a couple of more things..
LDD's can't output the same max voltage as the input.
If you use a 48V power supply the cumulative V(f) of a diode string at your chosen current cannot exceed 45V..
If you exceed it the diodes either won't light, light dimmer than expected or some will light and not towards the string end..
won't break anything AFAICT..

Say you have Royal blues that have a v(f) of 3.6V @ 1000mA (don't recommend because you are exceeding "3W" rating but that is another issue.)

45/3.6 = 12.5 diodes.. i.e 12...
That string would be 43.2W...

more than "guessed" at..

14 "like" strings (168 total diodes) would total 604W.. Add 10% overhead 660W are needed..still approx but much closer..

Shift to 500mA drivers and you only need 330w-ish.. well close.. depends on the V(f) at 500mA
@ 500mA v(f) is only 3.4
3.4 x .5 x 12 = 20.4W x 14 like strings = 285 or 300-ish w/ added ps overhead..



Point is picking a ps is dependent on diodes and design.. Can't really give an "exact" answer..
Well except for that 1000W expensive medical power supply is certainly enough..

to be "perfect" one would need to build the strings and actually test them live.........
just need the actual voltage on the string.. you know the current (driver rating) as long as it's below max voltage
That would get you REAL wattage of each and just add them up to get the ps needs..

 

[el aguila]

Ok, I get it. I need to get the numbers of LEDs per string, with Forward voltages, strings per channel, the actual LDD sizes that I’ll use. Then I can intelligently figure out which PS to get.

Rather than one big expensive PS, multiple more moderately priced PS makes sense.

 

[oreo57]

Ok, I get it. I need to get the numbers of LEDs per string, with Forward voltages, strings per channel, the actual LDD sizes that I'll use. Then I can intelligently figure out which PS to get.

Rather than one big expensive PS, multiple more moderately priced PS makes sense.

Usually.. but not always a lot....

https://www.jameco.com/z/SE-600-48-...-Output-48-Volt-12-5-Amp-600-Watt_295929.html
600W $72.20.. Voltage adj to 43-56V
https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-SE...ocphy=1028224&hvtargid=pla-571728199195&psc=1




2 LRS-350-48 Sale Price: $33.49 x 2 = 66.98 43-52.8V adj.
100 extra watts though.

.