RO/DI decision time

five.five-six

Well-known member
So last night I am standing outside the grocerie store with 8, 5 gallons jugs and a bag full of quarters, at midnight, in the rain, freezing my butt off wondering when the last time this water machine was serviced, when it occurred to me that I just might consider buying a RO/DI unit for my home

the main reason I have not got one yet is that I do not know enough to make a decision. I have tried the search button but "ro" and "di" are not enough letters. any help would be much appreciated.

membrane / media price

membrane / media availability

membrane / media longevity

TDS output

GPD output

rejection rate / water wasted

this stuff is co confusing I just do not know where to start
 
Start by understanding how they work. The key to any system is a good membrane that blocks absolutely as much dissolved solid as possible. DI resin takes care of what remains. So obviously, the more work the membrane does, the less work the resin will need to do. Resin is rapidly exhausted and generally considered a disposable commodity. So our goal is to keep resin cost down. Membranes last years and years, so their initial cost is almost negligible when compared to the cost of the other filters involved in RO. It is a good idea to pay good money for a top notch membrane because you will keep it a very long time.

So now you understand that when you hook your unit up to the water source, the membrane will remove most total dissolved solids (TDS) and the DI resin will take care of the rest. The problem is that your tap water will quickly destroy your membrane by exposing it to chlorine. So we must remove the chlorine with a carbon block. Better carbon blocks remove more chlorine and have less of a risk of chlorine break through. So now we should be good to go. The membrane protects the DI resin from exhausting too fast, the carbon protects the membrane from being exposed to chlorine. Only problem now is that as the carbon block clogs with sediment from your tap water, it is no longer effective at removing chlorine. So the system fails. We need to protect the carbon block. This is where a sediment filter comes in.

What you'll see is that each component of a well designed RO/DI system is specifically built just to protect the next downstream item. So you really want something that is of high quality from start to finish. No point in getting a top notch membrane only to protect it with terrible prefilters. Also, it is not a great idea to have a lousy membrane and just use lots of high quality DI resin to make up for it. The cheapest systems to "maintain" (not necessarily set up), are those that use premium quality parts and allow for the membrane, as opposed to the DI, to do all of the work. My general recommendation, assuming typical tap water, is to go with something like a 1 micron prefilter, a chlorine guzzler carbon block, a filmtec 70gpd membrane, and a full 24oz vertical DI resin cannister. Now that you know roughly what you are looking for check out these RC sponsors and you can easily compare units.
Filterguys
buckeyefieldsupply
airwaterice
spectrapure

Let us know if you need any more help.

FB
 
wow! outstanding, that should be a sticky :) that sounds like what I wan't. I do not want to save $50 upfront just to have problems downstream. I am wondering if I can T the output and run one end to the refrigerator in my kitchen and my ice maker and the other end run to some sort of float valve that I have drilled into my rolling brute, so I will generally always have water made up for a water change.

I just do not know what is a good carbon block or membrane and what is just marketing mumbo-jumbo
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11764545#post11764545 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
a filmtec 70gpd membrane,

You do mean 75GPD right? I didn't know they made a 70.
 
Re: RO/DI decision time

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11764404#post11764404 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by five.five-six

membrane / media price

membrane / media availability

membrane / media longevity

TDS output

GPD output

rejection rate / water wasted

this stuff is co confusing I just do not know where to start

I answer some of your questions a little more specifically since it seems my last response was more of a ramble than anything.

membrane / media price In terms of membranes, price is a tiny factor. You really want to get a 70GPD dow filmtec membrane so just get the cheapest price possible (from a reliable source of course!). The only real other price concern regarding membranes, I think, is whether or not you want to go for a hand tested membrane by spectrapure. See, dow filmtec membranes are rated to remove 98% of dissolved solids (tds) before your DI resin. That is a great thing. However, this is only an AVERAGE. The membranes are not considered defective unless they get below 95% I believe. This is a big deal when it comes to di usage. Normal dow filmtec membranes can be had for about $40. Now if you want someone to hand test your membrane and guarantee you that you will get one of the ones that is ABOVE 98% rejection, then you can pay about $80 and get a tested membrane from spectrapure. The value of this is directly related to how much TDS is i nyour tap water. If you have high tds tap water, the spectrapure membrane will save you money in no time at all since you will use less DI resin. If you have great tap water, then it is certainly not a necessity. You will need to evaluate that on your own. For my high tds (500ppm), it was obviously worth it.

membrane / media availability Membranes are available everywhere and from every RO vendor. This is a cerrtain non issue with any standard RO system. The parts and filters are more or less interchangeable. if you get a system from the Filterguys you can put spectrapure filters in it. If you get a unit from melevsreef you can throw buckeyefield supply units in it also. the only exception might be specialty units like costco unit that I would stay away from for that reason alone (someone correct me if I am wrong). But in general, media availability is not a concern. Customer service is a better concern and all of the RC sponsors will have good service.

Media longevity Better go with media quality instead. Longevity isn't much of an issue with most media b/c you will want to replace the prefilters every 6 months anyways. As previously mentioned, just get high quality prefilters and they will do the job just fine. The longevity of the membrane will be determined by the quality of the prefilters. the longevity of the DI resin will be determined by the quality of the membrane (which is determined by the prefilters again. so we come full circle).

TDS output. All units should give 0 tds. Even the worst of the worst should give you 0 tds. This is because DI resin is very effective at stripping ions from water. The issue is how did we get to 0 tds. Bad units will rely more heavily on the DI resin and so it will need to be changed more often. Good units will rely on the membrane so the operating cost will be cheaper. Initial impressions of cheap units are almost universally good, but within a few years it becomes obvious that the units are more expensive to run because of the heavy DI dependence. I make tons of water, always have 0 tds out, and I do it on the super cheap b/c I use the best membrane possible to do all of the work for me. So the end tds result is almost always 0 tds as long as you are willing to throw enough DI resin at the problem (the goal is not to).

Rejection rate: I described this above. Stick with dow filmtec and you should get around 98% rejection. Avoid 100gpd membranes as they get an average of 96% rejection. Think of that as 2% vs 4% getting through. That's twice as much DI you will use with the 100gpd membrane vs the 70gpd membrane. Your only real other option is the hand tested membrane for a guarantee.

Waste water.
Most high quality units run at about 4 gallons waste to 1 gallon good water. This is pretty much a standard so not a lot you can do. Spectrapure has a new high efficiency unit that runs 1:1 ratio but be prepared to drop about a grand. Filterguys have a water miser system that they claim works well to reduce waste water but it is almost certainly a better idea to use it on low tds tap water rather than high tap tds. Last, if you will use this for drinking water (pressurized storage tank) then a permeate pump will save you a huge amount of water. otherwise, almost all units from the RC sponsors will run at about the same 4:1 ratio.

HTH,
FB
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11764783#post11764783 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by atvdave
You do mean 75GPD right? I didn't know they made a 70.

Sorry Dave, that is right.
 
Re: Re: RO/DI decision time

Re: Re: RO/DI decision time

thanks again,
for sure, this needs a sticky

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11764789#post11764789 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
if you will use this for drinking water (pressurized storage tank) then a permeate pump will save you a huge amount of water. otherwise, almost all units from the RC sponsors will run at about the same 4:1 ratio.

HTH,
FB

are you saying that if I want to hook the output to my refrigerator, (ice maker and drinking water) I need a pressurized tank?

I hear nothing but great stuff about spectrapure, and I like to support RC sponsors

do I need to buy a TDS meter first?, how about a TDS meter on the output, should I but one of those to help make a decision on which sediment filter and carbon filter to buy?
 
Re: Re: Re: RO/DI decision time

Re: Re: Re: RO/DI decision time

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11765107#post11765107 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by five.five-six
are you saying that if I want to hook the output to my refrigerator, (ice maker and drinking water) I need a pressurized tank?

I hear nothing but great stuff about spectrapure, and I like to support RC sponsors

do I need to buy a TDS meter first?, how about a TDS meter on the output, should I but one of those to help make a decision on which sediment filter and carbon filter to buy?


If you will be using the unit for drinking water (and we'll say an ice maker for kicks too), then you do not typically want to wait for the unit to make water when you decide you need water. The units will typically make water at a slow trickle rate. Instead you store the water in a pressurized tank that will hold 3-14gallons and water will be available anytime when you open the RO faucet. The idea behind the pressurized storage tank is that you will not need any additional pump to send water to the ice maker or drinking faucet. Since the water is stored under pressure, it will flow as soon as the faucet is opened. The problem with this design is that RO membranes work on a pressure differential and not just the pressure on one side of the membrane. As water pressure builds up in the storage tank, the membrane will see a drop in pressure across it and become less and less effective. A permeate pump uses the waste water pressure of the unit to force water into the storage tank. So the RO unit continues to work at a 4:1 waste to good ratio instead of slowly creeping to a worse 12:1 or some that is often seen at the end of a tank filling cycle. The permeate pumps use no electricity but do make a clicking noise as they turn over and force water into the storage tank. They are not necessary but are a good addition if saving water is a concern. They do absolutely nothing for a system that is not using a pressurized storage tank and is only filling an "open to atmosphere tank", like a sump or brute trashcan.

Yes, spectrapure makes great products. You will not go wrong with them.

Meters: There are couple things you may want to consider before selecting a unit. Having a pressure gauge and a TDS meter will let you predict what kind of performance you will get out of your unit. One of the most frustrating events in RO/DI is to spend a lot of money on a great system, spend a day or so hooking it all up and plumbing it, only to find out your tap water pressure is 30-40 psi. This is heartbreaking. There is absolutely nothing you can really do about except invest even more money and then buy a (pressure) booster pump. This pump connects between the sediment filter and carbon filter and will raise the water pressure before the membrane. RO membranes really work best around 60-80 psi and anything else can be a bit disappointing. The pumps can be a little expensive but at least they are easy to install. If this is something you are absolutely not will to purchase or install, then you really should get a pressure gauge before purchasing anything else because low input pressure is always a possibility and it is incompatible with reverse osmosis.
TDS meters: There are two styles of tds meters; hand held and inline. Both have advantages. Hand held units tend to be more accurate and are better temperature compensated. You can use them to test your tap water, RO only water, DI water and pretty much anything else (no saltwater though please). You can even lend them out to friends if need be. I initially purchased a hand held unit and rely on it mostly for trouble shooting now (b/c of it's accuracy). The inline meters are a bit less accurate but make up for it greatly with convenience. I have one that straddles my membrane so that I can quickly calculate rejection rate and know that everything is functioning properly. There is no meter to locate, cap to remove, meter to flush, and valves to open. I just use the inline meter and click from "in" to "out" and have my answer. So the convenience is the principle factor for me. if you are only going to get one meter, then the versatility of the hand unit is probably the safer bet, but the inline unit can also be justified.

FB
 
ok, I am getting a bit confused about the permeate pump. are you saying that once the pressurized tank is full, the RO machine will keep wasting water?

also, when I plumb this thing, should I get my supply before or after the water softener


also, I have seen hand held TDS meters that double as conductivity meters (for measuring salinity) should I stay away from those?

I wish you could write an article and post it with all of Randy's at the top of the reef chemistry forum
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11765547#post11765547 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by five.five-six
ok, I am getting a bit confused about the permeate pump. are you saying that once the pressurized tank is full, the RO machine will keep wasting water?

also, when I plumb this thing, should I get my supply before or after the water softener


also, I have seen hand held TDS meters that double as conductivity meters (for measuring salinity) should I stay away from those?

I wish you could write an article and post it with all of Randy's at the top of the reef chemistry forum

An RO system that is designed to work in conjunction with a pressurized storage will also include an auto shutoff valve (ASV or ASOV) to stop the flow of water when the storage tank is full. A permeate pump only serves to purpose to shield the membrane from the backpressure of the storage tank. It is in no way necessary. It just keeps the membrane running as efficiently as possible throughout the tank filling process. When plumbing the RO system into a house with a water softener, the RO system should be installed after the water softener (someone correct if I am wrong. I have not done this, but this is my understanding).

TDS meter: If the TDS meter is specifically designed to be immersed in saltwater as well, then that should be ok, otherwise don't risk it. Make sure that the unit you are considering is designed to measure saltwater conductivity and not just freshwater conductivity. A great hand help meter is the HM COM 100. I believe spectra and a few other sponsors carry it.

And thanks for the compliment:)

FB
 
so if I want to auto fill a brute and pressurize a tank for my fridge, then I do not want a auto shutoff, but I do want a permeate pump

I probably want to check my water pressure, should I call the city or buy a gauge? home depot?

I have heard filter guys name tossed around here with a good rep, am i safe to just call them, tell them what I want and get a fair deal
 
You may also want to consider a rechargeable Kati Ani unit that produces zero rejected water. You can recharge it for dollars if not pennies.

I used to use a ro/di but it took so long to make water and it wasted alot of water.

Kati anb is one of the best pieces of equipment i have purchased.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11766518#post11766518 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by five.five-six
so if I want to auto fill a brute and pressurize a tank for my fridge, then I do not want a auto shutoff, but I do want a permeate pump

I probably want to check my water pressure, should I call the city or buy a gauge? home depot?

I have heard filter guys name tossed around here with a good rep, am i safe to just call them, tell them what I want and get a fair deal

There are a couple ways to go about this. If you will be using the pressurized storage tank, then you will definitely need the ASOV. It will turn off the unit when all of the RO or DI outlets are closed and the storage tank is full. Here is a wiring diagram

http://www.spectrapure.com/support_hud_addons.htm

4th from the top, Deluxe Drinking Water System. Essentially you will have RO water being stored in the pressurized tank at all times and when you open the faucet, water RO water will go their. DI water will go to your brute trashcan only when the DI ballvalve is open. It is easier to see it in the diagram on the spectrapute page. This is pretty easy to set up and any of the RC sponsors can set you up with this type of system. You can also use another valve, called a float falve that will close off once your brute can is filled to max. Thus at all times, you will have a full pressurized storage tank for drinking purposes and a filled brute trash can for you RO/DI reef water. One thing to keep in mind though is that each time the RO system turns on, you will experience a very temporary high tds period of time as pressure stabilizes across the membrane. This momentary increase in tds is called tds creep and is made worse by cycling the unit on and off rapidly. Avoid this by not taking a thimble of water each time from your RO faucet or a few cups of water from your brute trashcan. Each time you do this, the unit will cycle on for a brief period of time and show higher tds. Always measure tds after the unit has been running for at least 5 minutes and has stabilized to get the best results.
 
You want a system with an autoshutoff valve. This is what stops the flow when it senses backpressure from a full pressure tank or closed float switch or valve. A permeate pump is a device that uses backpressure to help produce water a little faster. It has nothing to do with shutting the flow off.
Kati/Ani DI systems have their place but are not as efficient as a good RO/DI system and also require harardous chemicals to recharge the resin. You will also find you will never ever be able to recharge the resin back to 100% as it requires heat too to accomplish this. DI will not remove non electrically charged contaminates so is not as effective as a membrane. I suppose if I hada tpa TDS or 50 or less I would consider it but when the national average TDS exceeds 250 its not an option for most.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11766643#post11766643 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
There are a couple ways to go about this. If you will be using the pressurized storage tank, then you will definitely need the ASOV. It will turn off the unit when all of the RO or DI outlets are closed and the storage tank is full. Here is a wiring diagram

http://www.spectrapure.com/support_hud_addons.htm


I am thinking I will need a check valve before the pressurized tank, so that when I empty the brute, it does not fill immediately leaving no water for the fridge for 1/2 a day

how do I check my water pressure? can I just buy some sort of meter at the local hard ware store?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11766863#post11766863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by five.five-six
I am thinking I will need a check valve before the pressurized tank, so that when I empty the brute, it does not fill immediately leaving no water for the fridge for 1/2 a day

how do I check my water pressure? can I just buy some sort of meter at the local hard ware store?

Sorry I forgot to answer some of that. You can use a check valve to isolate the storage tank and DI reservoir. That is fine. You could use the water stored in the pressure tank to help fill your brute trash can but there are two potential downsides. First, you may notice more tds creep in your small pressurized storage tank due to the smaller volume, and second you are right in that it will quickly empty your pressure tank and leave you temporarily without water for drinking. So the check valve will remedy these issues. You may be able to find something like this at HD or Lowes

http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/faq-pressure-gauge.htm

and the necessary adapters to make it work on your kitchen sink. Lowes and HD should have something you can use and it should be pretty cheap.

FB
 
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