***RO/DI selection HELP! Salt Mix HelpWhat brand is good? what do you all use?

[champion6sigma]

CS

That sounds like great water! and flow!

I'm thinking about getting the prefilter for sediment...since its recommended for pumps. I've only seen the one on bulk reef. DM prefilter device for 8.99 They are out of stock. Did you find yours at local hardware? Once I start doing water in the house....I may not really need it...since we have a heavy duty water softener....but I'll have it just in case.

I want to get some murlok connection tabs to make them more secure...I need to figure out exactly what type of connection I want to use in house....and Im trying to figure out a better solution for a container of product water.

http://spectrapure.com/manuals/CALC-FORMULA.pdf

Theres the formulas which discuss temperature...actual performance...you are right about the colder water and extreme high water making performace worst. People who live in snow areas...I guess during winter months they will have very poor performance unless they are using hot water....but in that case..they must need a massive water heater tank or they will run out of water in no time in it....

I want to get 2:1 ratio if possible. From the people at spectrapure and marinedepot...they really do recommend the single membrane stage rather than the dual piggybacked. Every person I talked to said I'm better off with ONE. and that they use only ONE on their systems.

Once I have it running through home faucet I'll post the TDS meter. I still can't believe ours is high. Our city uses a natural water source...clean...I don't know what its treated with but I am surprised what the TDI in was reading from the hose and outside faucet.

 

[CStrickland]

yup. my waters 66 degrees so I was down to 2.5 gph at one point. You don't heat the water though, since it's dangerous for the membrane if it gets too hot. Spectrapure helped me set the flow restriction so that the water has more force going through the membrane (more psi doesn't help, and more than 80 can be a problem). Rather than use diff flow restricters in the summer and winter, I have a ball valve on my outlet that reduces waste. So when the water warms up I can open the valve and let more waste through. Like, I physically control how much goes down the drain. But you only want to do that if you know everything else is up to snuff, and it's just that the water's cold.

For my sediment, I bought the fancy rinseable sediment cartridge from spectrapure. It's really gross how dirty it gets IDK what youre supposed to do for booster pumps, but I'd guess that whoever sold you the booster could point you in the right direction.

Natural water can be high in TDS, like minerals and alkalinity. It's not necessarily bad for you. For the 2:1, to be honest it sounds like a great idea but my logic in not trying to get there is - if it were easy everyone would do it There's probs a reason why most units run 3-4:1 out of the box. Where I live the water's free and plentiful, no droughts or anything. But yeah, if you can get it, that's awesome. People do achieve it.

 

[Mackenze]

Brs Rodi units are the best way to go. Watch their videos on the carbon blocks.

 

[champion6sigma]

Right, I've read on countless threads where people are pushing there systems to 90 and 95 with their booster pumps thinking they are getting better results....and they aren't.

The booster pump is the aquatek 8800. Industry standard which spectrapure uses, marine depot and brs sell, probably is available everywhere. In the manual of spectrapure it states to use the presediment filter for a booster pump. Marine depot doesn't sell one. if you check out the brs video on how to install a booster pump....either for lower flow or for higher flow(i got high flow) then the long haired guy shows the presidement filter which is a tiny inline thing...but its an old model probably cause its too small and people who really need it maybe had backup issues. Their current one the DM filter is larger. They don't recommend a true "filter"

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dm-fit-filter-strainer.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHEnHpdm1Qw

Theres the strainer and theres the video.

I guess I just want 2:1 because the details of the maxcap show 2:1...but i understand now that the worse off the starting water it...it may not be possible. Even their 1:1 system for 1000 states that if you have terrible water it may not be best system or work at 1:1 ....something like that.

As far as flow restrictors...I'm still figuring that out. I know the piggy back system add on you need a 180 flow restrictor compared to the standard....which is included in kit....but I honestly don't know still the dynamics. I think I need some an easy to see visual showing fluid movement with both systems so i can compare.

I'm in san antonio. We have our aquifer.

 

[champion6sigma]

Brs Rodi units are the best way to go. Watch their videos on the carbon blocks.

BRS is a great system...no doubt....but I still say they are 2nd to spectrapure. Spectrapure designs commerical and much larger systems...and I think they have an advantage. According to testing and their FAQ, their systems are achieving the highest filtration and also saving money in the process.

I love BRS stuff and they will always have my business.

If I ever get a much larger tank and a new house...I would be getting a bigger spectrapure system. Maybe their 1:1 or possibly their larger commercial units. In retrospect....I probably wouldn't have mind buying the autoflush unit which I think flushes every hour. Its an addon that can always be done later. I need to get the system working with the floats...and supposedly i need a second switch...spectrapure highly stressed that the system as is...the kit is not an automated process..the one float switch they give is like a clutch...not a true "off" and to not let it run as is on standby. They sell a secondary module for true automation and true turn off. both are needed to be installed to have that

 

[CStrickland]

As far as flow restrictors...I'm still figuring that out. I know the piggy back system add on you need a 180 flow restrictor compared to the standard....which is included in kit....but I honestly don't know still the dynamics. I think I need some an easy to see visual showing fluid movement with both systems so i can compare.

The flow restriction itself isn't complicated at all. But the effect it has, like what it's doing for the system, I don't totally understand. So I just know that I need 3-4:1 and I make it do that, but I'm fuzzy on why

Most rodi use a capillary tube flow restrictor, but the idea is the same as my ball valve. They change how much back pressure is on the waste water. If the tube is really long, or extra skinny, or the valve is mostly closed, less water is wasted. If the tube is short, or the valve open, more water goes down the drain. It's like you need to balance the psi coming in (tap side) with the pressure on the (waste-side) membrane, to get it fully efficient (product). The right balance is long filter life & least waste & fastest production of pure water.

If you haven't yet, it's pretty easy to pop out the restrictor on your unit and look at it. They are shipping them with really short tubes now. Apparently, they used to come long and nobody was following the setup directions to trim it down the the right length for their tap water conditions. So they were getting great waste ratios and blowing their membranes. So now spectrapure err on the side of too much waste by shipping with a pre-trimmed, less-restricted flow of waste water. It's fine for most water, but my cold water needed more restriction.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Looking for a ro/di system about 100 gpm what brand and how many stage is good?

Are you really looking for a 100 gallons per MINUTE system? If so, please give us a call. With a system this size, 144,000 gpd, there is obviously many more things to consider.

I suspect you meant 100 gpd.

 

[champion6sigma]

Finally made some RO water. I'm producing about 5 gallons an hour. Using a bathroom faucet. I tuned the aquatek to the 'green' good zone to be in instead of over 90 psi.

I'm considering a permanent wall fixed position in wash room. I'm thinking of a Y spout from washer inline. Plan on ordering that DM strainer from BRS. The faucet adapter i got was from home store all it is a hose adapter for a sink faucet...then i connected 1/4 line adapter hose thing included ....to that. The faucet actually has a builtin strainer. My TDS at the gate is now 220 showing in house...

I think I can make a clean looking setup with wire management...perhaps so that there are not exposed 1/4 inch lines zipping around. That was one of my concerns...is not having a mess. Im going to look at wire management solutions in media dept or plumbing to figure out how to make it cleaner on walls. I also need to add an outlet I think to washroom wall. At this point I also might just order the piggyback system and the autoflush so that I do not need to reach up and actually manually move the lever.

I decided I don't want to do anything under sink, or use those devices to bust into a pipe and feed from that. Plus there is not enough room, and I can't see readings of the monitors.



I still need to do the salt water mixing.

 

[champion6sigma]

I'm doing the salt water mixing today. I will be doing 20 gallons in a brute trash can...I've got a powerhead to stir salt mix. Should I be adding a heater to water before adding salt and mixing or just add after?

Whats the minimum length of time to have powerhead moving water before transferring back to the 5 gallon jugs..

Also what is the best way to clean my containers. They have a brown dark residue on bottom....interior. Vinegar? Hydrogen peroxide ? half water solution...

Any other tips before I do mixing tonight?

What I'm doing until I can figure out better mixing container...is I'm making the water in my containers. I'll dump out 4 containers until trash can. Then I'll mark where 20 is, in future I'll just make 20 at a time.

I've got long enough hosing where I can pump out the salt water direct into the jugs after its done. Same pump positioned with flex hose will move water around. I've got a junk heater from my quarantine tank that I can use...but if it doesn't affect the salt mixing I may just wait to heat each one until I'm ready to pour into fish tank?

 

[uncleL]

I have the 5 stage plus from BRS 75 gallons per day $200 works great

 

[champion6sigma]

Not sure if anyone still following my thread....

I completed the 20 gallons of salt water. Made it 20 hours of mixing with a 500gph pump. My salinity was higher than expected...at 1.027 or 8 so I added maybe a gallon of RODI.

Completed a 10 gallon water change to tank.

Used pump to fill 2 additional 5 gallon containers...does it in about 45 seconds! I've got two containers of RODI on standby for top off.

Feels real good to get this done myself. Gain this experience and confidence.

 

[champion6sigma]

Thanks for everyones help.

 

[CStrickland]

I'm still following!
And I'm really proud of you <3

 

[champion6sigma]

Thanks CS

I have a question...I just did a manual test of tank water with my refractometer....and its a bit high...about 1.0265 or 1.027

I just recently calibrated my apex about 2 or 3 weeks ago....was reading great. I currently have my probe in the skimmer section (first section) . My sump is 1 skimmer and return 2 temp 3 return pump..... does the probe section make any difference if probe in a tepid low water movement area furthest away from all activity....?

should i trust my apex over my handheld device....?

i don't have any more calibration solution at moment to test my refractometer. the refractometer is about 3 years old and never calibrated...but reads 0 with RODI water...and always "seemed" to be fairly consistent. When I used to test at the LFS they would always come back with 1.025 or 1.026...and this last few times with apex I know they are off.

I guess I will need to double check calibration of apex with control substance...check refractometer also...

Main questions then are should I trust the APEX for now and is the placement of probe affecting readings? I originally placed probes together with temp in 1st section so that I could see the true water temp coming from display. I sort of figured if I put the probes in the return pump section I'd be heating water it would read instantly but then it may cool off in the DT and come out cool into skimmer where it keeps cycling heater just enough to get it "right" in return pump area...but the slow water intake to DT is neutralized by DT temp...

i might be overthinking this...

 

[champion6sigma]

my apex reading is 34.3 currently and has been around 34 most of day slightly below slightly above

reference chart
51.0 33.50 1.0248
51.5 33.90 1.0250
52.0 34.30 1.0253
52.5 34.60 1.0256
53.0 35.00 1.0259

 

[CStrickland]

I mean, I don't have an apex so I can't speak on that, but I can see how it would be a prob if the water the probe contacts is diff from all the tank water. Whether because it's too close to where the ato dumps fresh water, or just not moving fast enough to be even. Temp does affect it, but idk if a few degrees is enough to make that much diff.

Calibration fluid is def key. Is the probe movable, or could you like take a cup of water from the DT or another part of the sump and put the probe in it? Just out of curiosity.

 

[champion6sigma]

I just moved probe to display tank...Getting similar readings...unfortunately the numbers are not static...the ranged from 33.9 through 34.5 not sure if maybe I really didn't let salt mix properly and its still slowly mixing. I know when I dumped water in that I thought there was a little more sediment then usual...but I could be wrong...

The pump I have is supposed to be 500gph...I've never tested it...its chinese junk that came with my cadlights. Maybe it didn't do too well of a job moving water around quickly.

Tank looks fairly clear now with moonlights. I guess tomorrow things should settle more and I can see if readings change. I'll have to get another calibration solution..test both products.

I'll need to do more readings on the apex probes, see when they need to be cleaned..I'm still new to it. Its very complex system.

 

[champion6sigma]

It might be refractometer though...remember I said readings were high when I did the salt mixing?

I filled 4 5 gallon jugs properly and used that amt for first batch. I measured out exactly 6.6 pounds of dd2 salt based on their 1 pound per 3 gallons of water directions....so it may very well have been 1.026....even when refractometer said it was 1.028 or 7 .....then I added RODI to batch to dilute thinking it was somehow off. Or perhaps it hadn't mixed long enough...other possibility...

Eitherway when doing the 10 gallon water change....apex didn't have a drastic change (really none except for usual fluctuates )

calibration solution will have the answers.

 

[CStrickland]

for the first part you added salt to water right? But then since it was a little high you added more water? That's fine, you just can't measure the salt into the bucket and then add water to it.

I add salt to fresh, cold, rodi; let it mix for 20 min with a $6 Chinese powerhead; and it's good to go. I doubt it's your mixing process as long as you aren't pouring the water into a pile of salt. Some brands have directions that say not to mix for a long time, but idk dd2 salt. Weighing is def more accurate.

 

[champion6sigma]

Oh yes, I remembered what you said. Water first then salt. I had powerhead on also, before I added salt so that it started process instantly.

Water was room temp. Yeah the mixing I think said 2 hours....most threads say minimum is fine but that its good to mix 12 to 24 hours.

DD2 didn't give a lot of instructions. They did write to mix around the salt in its container, I did best I could but I couldn't go too deep. Not easy to do with 50 pounds of dense salt.

Apex reading as of now says 33.8

I really don't understand...i don't have experience with apex to know what fluctuations are normal and why they happen....if its the probe or the water movement...