RO/DI Unit Opinions
- Thread starter ameares8
- Start date
fallinapart
Premium Member
I have been using one for well over a year now, and am real happy with it, Does just as good as the expensive units, but not as many bells and whistles. I use the 6 stage unit, but skip the 6th stage for top-off water as it is a taste reduction unit. so I guess I use a 5 stage unit and have had no problems.
fallinapart
Premium Member
Yes, you can mount it anywhere you like, and I have a separate UV unit I use, but it sits between the sump and display tank. I'm not familiar with their UV unit so I cannot comment on that part.
Your welcome to drop by my place anytime and take a look at my unit for ideas if you like.
Your welcome to drop by my place anytime and take a look at my unit for ideas if you like.
if you like, i asked a similar question in a post a couple of weeks ago, and there is a couple links to check out. I also ordered one like norman's.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1572078
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1572078
waynesworld
Premium Member
I also use it for both drinking and for my fish. what I did was put a t before the di and if I want water for my fish it goes to the di and for us it goes to the tast thingy. i use a lot of water so I put some cheap prefilters from lowes or home depot first so I still get 0tds and have used it over a year.
MVlk
New member
I bought the 6 stage last month from Pure Water Club. Instruction are pretty bad and in broken English but it comes mostly assembled and with the exception of one connection, very easy to figure out. The mystery connection was explained after a quick posting for help. I would recommend this unit.
Here is a shot of my unit hooked up. I do no use it for drinking water.
Here is a shot of my unit hooked up. I do no use it for drinking water.
sal-t-dawg
Registered Nut Job
I had heard that between the wasted water and the cost of the filters that these units really arent cost effective. What has your experience been? I usually just by my water from the LFS.
poolkeeper1
New member
They have more efficient units but there not as cheap as that one is. The difference is in the membrane rejection rate of good water to waste water. That being said It's still cheaper than what the LFS charges unless you don't use that much water. Look at Spectra Pure units they are top of the line IMO Max Cap RODI in particular.
waynesworld
Premium Member
I would say the cost of filters is cheaper then others. I have not checked the rejection rate vs others but i wouldn't think its that much different.
There are ways to limit the waste as well. I you added another carbon filter and membrane.....although you may go through a membrane quicker on the second unit, it then reduces the waste water and yields you twice the treated water. For fish hobbyists this may be a good option unless you go through 100 gallaons a day of use. 
And keep in mind it may appear all are near the same, that isn;t necessairly true. I do not think you need to buy an expensive canister, but as Angela had done (and I did as well), check the fittings and ensure theya re good fittings.
The real difference are the membrane and particle size ratings. You have a choice here. Most less expensive units come with 5 micron filters, and a non TFC membrane (I forget the other type of membrane).
TFC membranes do a better job and last longer imo. Also, 5 micro filters do OK, but 1 micron do better. If you have very little TDS to begin with and your water is soft natively from the municipal supply, then the cheap filter elements may work out ok. Otherwise, 1 micron is your best bet. Don't forget to backflush them every 1000 gallons or so.
Another way to hep save money are using some refillable canister inserts for your DI or carbon. BRS has them and the DI refillable resin pretty inexpensively.
Regards,
Andy
And keep in mind it may appear all are near the same, that isn;t necessairly true. I do not think you need to buy an expensive canister, but as Angela had done (and I did as well), check the fittings and ensure theya re good fittings.
The real difference are the membrane and particle size ratings. You have a choice here. Most less expensive units come with 5 micron filters, and a non TFC membrane (I forget the other type of membrane).
TFC membranes do a better job and last longer imo. Also, 5 micro filters do OK, but 1 micron do better. If you have very little TDS to begin with and your water is soft natively from the municipal supply, then the cheap filter elements may work out ok. Otherwise, 1 micron is your best bet. Don't forget to backflush them every 1000 gallons or so.
Another way to hep save money are using some refillable canister inserts for your DI or carbon. BRS has them and the DI refillable resin pretty inexpensively.
Regards,
Andy
Last edited:
poolkeeper1
New member
http://www.spectrapure.com/low_waste_systems.htm
Here is an example of a more efficient type unit FYI
Here is an example of a more efficient type unit FYI
fallinapart
Premium Member
It sounds efficient for water conservation, but that would completely destroy my bank account
Wish I could afford something like that.
Wish I could afford something like that.
poolkeeper1
New member
I started with their 24gpd model then called them and they sent me all the parts to upgrade to the Max Cap 90gpd for a lot less than buying it new. Kinda did the assy myself and saved a bundle, for I'm with you lots of cash to buy from them. But IMO they are the best out there!
waynesworld
Premium Member
You can also do what I do is to have pre filters before the rodi you can connect 3 in front of your rodi for Aprox $30 and then just stager the filters down to 1 mic.
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
To maximize the effectiveness of the DI cartridge, you'll want to remove the horizontal DI from its clips and orient it vertically with bottom up flow.
Russ
Russ
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