RO / RI Need help :(
- Thread starter Reefer180
- Start date
oscar.millan
Active member
Well, I'm right about once a week so I guess that's it for this week. LOL.
Thanks for your feedback vdubfiend and sorry if I gave you too much of a hard time.
Cheers!
Thanks for your feedback vdubfiend and sorry if I gave you too much of a hard time.
Cheers!
oscar.millan
Active member
This is probably what started this whole thing, lol.
"Drinking water is usually Ted off before the membrane as it does not need all the minerals removed from it."
Clarification: "Drinking water is usually Ted off after (not before) the membrane ..."
"Drinking water is usually Ted off before the membrane as it does not need all the minerals removed from it."
Clarification: "Drinking water is usually Ted off after (not before) the membrane ..."
oscar.millan
Active member
Haha, let's blame him before he get's back online. Poor Steve.
YES ITS ALL STEVES FAULT!! HAHAHA
no problem
oscar.millan
Active member
Good luck Mike, please keep us posted. If you need anything else, please let us know.
letsgofishin
New member
the you schould not store zero tds water.... especially in metal cannisters...
1. it is corrosive, and or reactive
2. storing 'clean water' will eventually get dirty? having the di resin on the output of teh storage cannister will give the water a last / final cleaning...
run the water from the membrane and carbon direct into the storage cannister... and place a tee in that line.. one side into the storage cannister the other goes into the di resin cannisters, and a line out of the di resin with a shut off valve..
also, use of a storage cannister is not reccomended for zero di water... due to the higher 'flow rate' of teh water and not enough dwell time / contact time with the resin.
yes, it will work but it will also deplete the resin faster
please contact russ at Bulkreefsupply for further info and sketches
1. it is corrosive, and or reactive
2. storing 'clean water' will eventually get dirty? having the di resin on the output of teh storage cannister will give the water a last / final cleaning...
run the water from the membrane and carbon direct into the storage cannister... and place a tee in that line.. one side into the storage cannister the other goes into the di resin cannisters, and a line out of the di resin with a shut off valve..
also, use of a storage cannister is not reccomended for zero di water... due to the higher 'flow rate' of teh water and not enough dwell time / contact time with the resin.
yes, it will work but it will also deplete the resin faster
please contact russ at Bulkreefsupply for further info and sketches
oscar.millan
Active member
How many GPD is your unit rated for?
Oscar -
I have no idea for the GPD. All I know it was bought and intend to use for drinking and cooking only.
Maybe its better off just getting a new one. They sell it at BRS for the RO with the three canister, then I can connect my dual DI canister to it. Should be fine right.
I think the BRS one is rate for 75 GPD (gallon per day??) and it cost $117 i believe.
Would something like this work.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gp-5-stage-ro-system-no-di.html
I have no idea for the GPD. All I know it was bought and intend to use for drinking and cooking only.
Maybe its better off just getting a new one. They sell it at BRS for the RO with the three canister, then I can connect my dual DI canister to it. Should be fine right.
I think the BRS one is rate for 75 GPD (gallon per day??) and it cost $117 i believe.
Would something like this work.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gp-5-stage-ro-system-no-di.html
laverda
Well-known member
It can be done either way, but it is usually Ted off before the membrane. As I said many people feel you need the minerals the membrane removes. After the water that has gone through the membrane it can be hard on some peoples stomach, as it is more acidic then before. RO/DI is a very mild acid the will dissolve more elements then any other acid. That is why tap contains so many minerals and elements. It has dissolved them all! That said; I have never had any problem drinking RO/DI water.
oscar.millan
Active member
Laverda,
I think we settled this confusion earlier, let's not further confuse people with these statements. Flat out incorrect bud, I mean that in the best way possible.
RO membrane removes heavy metals, phosphates, and lots of other impurities. The idea that a sediment filter and carbon is enough to make good drinking water makes absolutely no sense. Especially when you've got a membrane that can remove 98% of all impurities.
I will give you this...collecting water after sediment and carbon is better than tap water, but absolutely not better than after it has been through an RO membrane. The RO membrane is the "heart" of the drinking water system.
Show me a diagram from Spectrapure, Captive Purity, Kent, etc. that recommends your setup.
I'm all about good discussion, but I have a passion for stopping miss-information. I'm happy to hear your argument.
Cheers!
I think we settled this confusion earlier, let's not further confuse people with these statements. Flat out incorrect bud, I mean that in the best way possible.
RO membrane removes heavy metals, phosphates, and lots of other impurities. The idea that a sediment filter and carbon is enough to make good drinking water makes absolutely no sense. Especially when you've got a membrane that can remove 98% of all impurities.
I will give you this...collecting water after sediment and carbon is better than tap water, but absolutely not better than after it has been through an RO membrane. The RO membrane is the "heart" of the drinking water system.
Show me a diagram from Spectrapure, Captive Purity, Kent, etc. that recommends your setup.
I'm all about good discussion, but I have a passion for stopping miss-information. I'm happy to hear your argument.
Cheers!
Last edited:
oscar.millan
Active member
Not a bad unit that you're looking at, personally I use the Spectrapure units. If you have the money I would buy a new one to be honest. Try to go with the highest GDP you can afford. It can seem like an eternity when you're doing a water change and need 20 to 30 gallons.
I don't think you're suppose to T off before the membrane, this doesn't make sense. Why would they sell RO units made for drinking with a membrane on it if you're suppose to T off before the membrane?
Where you're suppose to T off is before the DI which strips the water too much for drinking. I've read this is how it's suppose to be done on multiple occasions if you plan to drink the water but never read to T off before the membrane.
oscar.millan
Active member
Mad respect Mike, couldn't agree with you more man. Before the DI (T-off point) is what's confusing so many people.
Thanks for chiming in.
Thanks for chiming in.
Mad respect Mike, couldn't agree with you more man. Before the DI (T-off point) is what's confusing so many people.
Thanks for chiming in.
:idea::dance::idea:
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