RO System?

As said above, you want RO/DI for the aquarium.

But, DO NOT DRINK RO/DI water! IT is BAD for you!!
RO is fine. RO/DI is no bueno to drinko!
 
DI water is not bad to drink

May have a very slight different taste as ther are no minerals in it any more like filtered or tap water.

But ideally u don't want to waste DI for normal drinking water
 
If all u drink is di water then ok.
But we eat and drink so much other stuff ....
Water in general is toxic to the body as well in excess and does the same imbalances to through off our system.

But I don't suggest drinking 3+ gallons a day of water
 
Air Water Ice Typhoon. Been running one for years with the original membrane still getting 3 TDS RO and 0 TDS Di.
 
I have no desire to drink DI water and I see no reason not to drink regular water with the essential elements we need.

But, this may not be true, it seems if our digestive system is designed to remove these elements from what we ingest, then how could the DI water extract those elements form our system. Seems our system would just grab them back
 
DI water can dry your mouth and throat by stripping minerals, similar to how rubbing alcohol can dry your skin. That said, you definitely want RO/DI for the fish tank. There is a huge difference between the two. Mainly that RO has an amount of TDS, no real guidelines on how much, in the water that will be added to your tank and will then build up.

Normal water can be between 50 and 400 TDS while an RO filter will usually reduce it to between 10 and 50 TDS with new filters while RO/DI is 0 TDS if the DI is still working. The big thing is that you are topping off with this water so the dissolved solids add up, and we don't know what those solids are. If you have a lot of copper in the ground in your area, then it could be bad in the long run.
 
Specifically to the system you linked the last stage is a carbon block. That may increase the TDS of your output water

All you need for a system that size is:

S1. sediment filter
S2. Carbon block
S3. R/O Membrane
S4. D/I resin

One big exception here is if you have chlorimine treated water you should get a second or a larger Carbon block that is designed for that.

I have been using the BRS 4 stage value system for almost 2 years now with no problem supporting a 90 Gallon reef.
 
Honestly, if you get one like the guys suggested, three sediment cans on bottom, and the RO on top, it doesn't matter what brand. They will work EXACTLY the same. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if the containers were even made by the same people. In the end, you're just buying some containers. The media you buy and put in is what does the work.
 
Get what you need for the water you have, i.e. what is the tds of the tap water coming in. Pour a glass and let it set for a few hours. Do you see any settlement of sediment? If not a 4 stage with the small micron sediment filter might be best, rather than 2 sed filters. I would get a second DI and a dual in line tds meter. Measure tds out of the RO and out of the first DI. When tds is 1 out of the first di move the second one to the first spot, replace the resin in the first and put in the second spot. That way nothing but 0 tds gets to your tank.
 
I have a RO/DI system that serves as a double duty for my fish tank and drinking water. My main system is just an RO system. When I make water for the fish tank, I use a 3 way diverted valve and send the water through a separate dual DI resin cartridge.

For my Dinking water, I use the Vitev ReMin cartridge as a last stage before my faucet. I get clean drinking water that is highly mineralized. This remineralizer is by far the best on the market for drinking water. It is not made of calcite which gets depleted too quickly.

For those who want to drink RO water...you need to put the minerals back in for it to be healthy once they're stripped out from the RO system.


Here is the link to the remineralizer cartridge....
http://www.vitev.com/alkaline-water-ionizers-p/remin.htm


Russ from Buckeye hydro is the guy you want to talk to...he helped me tweak my system.
 
Last edited:
BlueRoofTang said:
Honestly, if you get one like the guys suggested, three sediment cans on bottom, and the RO on top, it doesn't matter what brand. They will work EXACTLY the same. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if the containers were even made by the same people. In the end, you're just buying some containers. The media you buy and put in is what does the work.
Click to expand...

I'll respectfully disagree with this opinion. We see it often, but never do we see it from folks who are truly familiar with these systems.

Russ
 
I purchased the aquatic life ro buddie system for my 29 gallon tank. It is rated for 100 gpd. I get zero tds out of it no problem. I am pleased with it so far. For less than 100 bucks I just couldn't justify the brs system.
 
I love my BRS value plus unit. Flush valve, check valve and pressure gauge for 149 is hard to beat. Well now its 200$ still a great price.
 
Also make sure you have a pressure gague and a tds meter, those 2 things are needed to know when to change your filters and how good it's running.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

sickman
Juwel Lido 200 - really reef tank ready all in one? Really Really?
2
Replies
39
Views
588
Reefing102
Reefing102
Dogs442
NEED HELP WITH RO/DI SYSTEM
2
Replies
34
Views
3K
griss
griss
P
Leak in RO system
Replies
11
Views
1K
wvned
wvned
Raptor72
Another RO/DI setup question(s)
Replies
19
Views
2K
griss
griss
Twisk
New Ro-di system & aquascape questions
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
griss
griss
Back
Top