RO units Q and A

[Maraschiello]

Hello,

I do not use RO water but want to start. I guess I have a few questions about using it:
Do I just attach it to my sink when I make water?

Do I have it constantly running in my sump?

If I have a 65 tank, how big of a unit is needed?

How many people on URS are using this?

What experiences does anyone have on brands/models

Hopefully we can use this thread to not only help myself but maybe help others out there too!

Thanks!

 

[toddmh]

Do I just attach it to my sink when I make water?

There are a couple units you can run from your sink,I have used a portable unit from http://www.purewaterclub.com/ but then i went out and bought a better unit from http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...systems/reverses-osmosis-deionization-systems it still is connected to my wash tub sink in the basement and is always hooked up..There are also some units that can be used to connect to your water line direct,I am not a huge fan of those..

Do I have it constantly running in my sump?

No..Some do not I though..Some have it controlled from a auto top off device..I top off my tanks by hand every day so I run my ro/di water in a 35g brute can,then pump it to a 45breeder mixing tank to make sea water..

If I have a 65 tank, how big of a unit is needed?

well that depends,at most my two tanks evaporate about 4g per day..Any ro/di can make that much a day with ease

How many people on URS are using this?

probably many

What experiences does anyone have on brands/models

Like I said I've used a low end purewater club unit and a really nice BRS unit..They both did the job,but I really like the BRS unit way more

 

[EllieSuz]

I use a unit called a Mighty Mite that I got from a Reef Central sponsor, Air, Water, Ice. It was a little over $100 as I remember and it easily handles the needs of my 60 gallon tank, the sump and lately, my quarantine tank (with daily water changes). I attach it to my laundry room sink about once a week and run it into holding jugs to use for top-off and new saltwater mix. I recently tested the water from this unit. From the faucet our water measures 154 and the water from the Mighty Mite is still at zero after six months of use. This is a compact, portable RO/DI unit and designed for our smaller systems.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

I would guess that many people (myself included) use RO water for their reef aquarium. Whatever you do- avoid using the cheapo saddle valve connection to a water line because they eventually (and always!) FAIL.

RO units aren't meant to be directly plumbed to a reef aquarium (for evaporation topoff) and it's a bad idea IMO. Fill a resevoir with RO and plumb that holding vessel for topoff or (in my case) avoid using an ATO unit altogether.

 

[pascal32]

I'm using a unit from the filter guys. Not the cheapest, however it seems well made. Keep in mind that the advertised GPD (gallons per day) will vary in real life. The colder your water source, the less RO will be produced - however, never run hot water through as it will damage the membrane.

If you are going to use a float switch to stop the unit you need a shutoff switch like this one (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html) If you are passing through Syracuse I will give you a brand new one (bought the kit and only used the float as I already have a shuttoff).

Per Gary's point - don't use saddle connections. I put a splitter on the washing machine along with an adapter which feeds the unit.

I've read that the upright DI units are better than the horizontal - though I don't know the details on that matter.

My RO/DI unit has a T on the output with one line going to my RO mixing hold container (circulating with heater) and the other to a 5 gallon bucket for topping off the sump.

For ATO - any ATO introduces a certain amount of risk. with risk comes reward. If you do it yourself by hand you will likely always get it right - but you might get sick, have an emergency that takes you away from the tank. For me, the risk of an ATO outweighs the benefits.

With that said I have what Gary mentioned - the RO/DI feeds a 5 gallon buck with a float switch. from there a 50 ml/minute dosing pump tops off the water level. This has a few safety features

* if the float valve fails my 5 gallon bucket will overflow onto the basement floor (not that big of a deal)
* if the ATO system fails to dose, a low level switch is activated which shuts off the sump pump and turns on a backup heater in the display tank
* if the topoff dosing pump gets stuck I am introducing water at 50 ml/min which will slowly lower the salinity - not ideal, but better than a MJ1200 pumping 20 gallons of RO into the tank. I tried to manage this with a high level switch, however I can't get it to play well with the standby to feed which turns off the return pump which raises the sump level.

 

[block head]

i'm very happy with the filter guys, great product and customer service. i use a quick connect faucet adapter. i'd lean towards units that use quality membranes and filters. i've had nothing but good dealings with BRS and the filter guys. it takes me about ten seconds to set up or take down and store under the sink vanity. i also make ro water for family to drink.

 

[Gravesj1s]

From my experience ro systems that produce less water or gpd are more effient than one producing higher amounts per day.You didnt mention DI but thought this maybe of interest.

( I.e.-a 25 gal per day unit channels water through DI resin slower than 60 gal per day units so theres less contact time.The effect is even more so when you move up to 90 gal per day membranes.

If you need more water on hand you could just add an additional storage vat and readily have what ever volume you think might be needed.Its more effient IMO than having to replace 2 cannisters of DI resin.1 would work well Imo.