RO water for QT or just use water conditioner?

[Dmorty217]

I'm setting up a 125g RR tank with a 55g sump and my question is what does everyone use when filling their QT? My RO is painfully slow... I realize that water conditioner coupled with some meds that may or may not be used in the QT could have a detrimental effect on the tank inhabitants. My ATO will be RO water but my question revolves around filling the tank initially. Usually the QT tanks I use are much smaller than this in total volume. The tank is being setup for a bandit and male crosshatch that I'm getting on Wednesday. Thanks in advance

 

[downbeach]

I usually take clean water from my DT during a WC.

 

[mrdobie]

ditto as long as you dt is in good health I drain my qt and refill with water from dt.

 

[Dmorty217]

I usually take clean water from my DT during a WC.

ditto as long as you dt is in good health I drain my qt and refill with water from dt.

Well there in lies the problem... The DT without question has ich so that isn't a option at this point

 

[Dmorty217]

I'm moving in 6 months so when I move I will address the ich in the DT

 

[ThRoewer]

Well there in lies the problem... The DT without question has ich so that isn't a option at this point

Just TTM the water:
Fill one clean container with water from the tank - syphoned from mid water and not close to the rocks.
After a day and a half transfer the water to another clean canister. Now it should be free of any cryptocaryon stages.

 

[Dmorty217]

Just TTM the water:
Fill one clean container with water from the tank - syphoned from mid water and not close to the rocks.
After a day and a half transfer the water to another clean canister. Now it should be free of any cryptocaryon stages.

That could work but I would need to do several transfers to make sure I don't transfer the ich right? The last thing I want to is make the over 1k of fish I'm about to get sick. No one is suggesting the water conditioner option. Does everyone think that pure RO makes that big of a difference as opposed to bringing the garden hose in? The tank is about half way full of RO now after running for 30 hrs or so. I guess at this point I just answered my own question:hammer::headwally:

 

[ThRoewer]

Another alternative would be doing TTM at hyposaline condition.

But back to the original question: For fish QT or TTM, if old DT water isn't available or not suitable, I would use tap water, add salt and treat it with a water conditioner.

 

[bc1281]

I use conditioned water for my Qt tanks and when doing tank transfer. So far I haven't had any issues.

 

[mitchrapp]

I use RODI for HT, TTM, QT, DT, ATO, everything (enough acronyms there?). Yes, it's slow, but as stated, with 1k of fish, why take a chance?

 

[ThRoewer]

I think it also depends on the quality of your tap water.
It is supposed to be suitable for human consumption though here in the US I wouldn't drink it as most water treatment plants still use chlorine (long gone out of use in Germany).

 

[downbeach]

Well there in lies the problem... The DT without question has ich so that isn't a option at this point

So, you're setting up a QT to quarantine the new fish, and then adding them to the DT with a know case of ich? Or, are you just setting up a separate DT where the new fish will remain? Or, is the new tank going to be a HT?

I'm moving in 6 months so when I move I will address the ich in the DT

Why not wait to do the move, and then deal with the ich before adding/getting any new fish.

 

[Dmorty217]

The new fish won't go into the current DT. The reason for setting up the 125g in addition to the new fish coming is to have a ich free tank to put the melanarus wrasse (the only fish in my 220g currently) in after TTM and then observing for several weeks. Kind of silly to have a 220g up for 1 3.5" fish... I will put the few pieces of rock I don't want to dry out and die off in a brute with a air stone for 73 days

I admit I should wait to get fish until I move and everything is setup but the fish are well priced and I miss having fish to stare at... Also the current 220g will be a sump or refugium for the 625g that will be setup when I move

 

[snorvich]

That could work but I would need to do several transfers to make sure I don't transfer the ich right?

No. Since you would only draw water from the top of your display tank, you would only "collect" the theront stage of the life cycle, that is the motile infective stage. If you "age" that water for 52 hours or more, it would be ich free since the theronts would "expire" in that time frame.

 

[Dmorty217]

No. Since you would only draw water from the top of your display tank, you would only "collect" the theront stage of the life cycle, that is the motile infective stage. If you "age" that water for 52 hours or more, it would be ich free since the theronts would "expire" in that time frame.

I follow you.

 

[jjk_reef00]

I can't aswer your question, but get a booster pump for your RO if you don't already have one. It helped me big time. If you have delicate fish I'd probably just go with RO because I tend to be paranoid.

 

[Dmorty217]

I can't aswer your question, but get a booster pump for your RO if you don't already have one. It helped me big time. If you have delicate fish I'd probably just go with RO because I tend to be paranoid.

I have a dual membrane with a booster pump along with a single membrane system. Dual isn't being used with the booster pump. I could hook up the booster pump and see how that helps production.

 

[ThRoewer]

No. Since you would only draw water from the top of your display tank, you would only "collect" the theront stage of the life cycle, that is the motile infective stage. If you "age" that water for 52 hours or more, it would be ich free since the theronts would "expire" in that time frame.

Why 52 hours?
Isn't the time within the theronts have to find a host 24 hours?
And eventually collected protomonts will be encysted within 18 hours.
So after 24 hours all free swimming stages have either died off or are attached to the walls of the container. So if that water is then poured out it should be completely Cryptocaryon free.
Did I miss something here?

 

[snorvich]

Although the marine biology literature suggests a lesser time is adequate, due to the nature of the fish being purchased, I suggest a safe interval of 52 hours which is 4 hours after the theront lose motility. I am also sensitive to potential strain differences. All the literature marine biologists agree that the theront's infectivity is highest early in its life (and is also the most vulnverable to treatment). By 6–8 hours after it leaves the cyst, its infectivity is greatly reduced (Burgess 1992; Yoshinaga and Dickerson 1994; Colorni and Burgess 1997; Dan et al. 2009), although a non-infective theront may still be able to move for up to 48 hours. Very simply I don't want to suggest any possible risk.

 

[Dmorty217]

Although the marine biology literature suggests a lesser time is adequate, due to the nature of the fish being purchased, I suggest a safe interval of 52 hours which is 4 hours after the theront lose motility. I am also sensitive to potential strain differences. All the literature marine biologists agree that the theront's infectivity is highest early in its life (and is also the most vulnverable to treatment). By 6"“8 hours after it leaves the cyst, its infectivity is greatly reduced (Burgess 1992; Yoshinaga and Dickerson 1994; Colorni and Burgess 1997; Dan et al. 2009), although a non-infective theront may still be able to move for up to 48 hours. Very simply I don't want to suggest any possible risk.

This is why I was hesitant to do it, not that I have ever doubted your advice. Put the booster pump on and tank is running.:thumbsup: