RODI valve relay?

[mpderksen]

Since I'm the only one that has left their RODI running and forgot.....
Mine fills a standard 44gal Brute. I have float valves to tell me when the level is low. Since I mounted an APEX Break Out Box at the mixing station, could I have it trigger a relay to shut down the water to the filter when the container is full?
My supply line is standard 1/4" poly....

 

[tkeracer619]

Yes, you can use a float switch to trigger a full condition. I buy my solenoids from autotopoff.com

An ASOV and float valve should also be utilized to guarantee you will not have a spill.

 

[PirateToast]

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Sh...1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493174946&sr=8-1&keywords=Asov

 

[mpderksen]

That seems crazy simple. So how does the float valve (contact closure) trigger the shut off? I'm missing something

 

[tkeracer619]

Gotta get the terminology correct.

A float switch is an electrical device that has a contact.

A float valve mechanically stops the water flow.

In your situation an ASOV in conjunction with a float valve will not tell you apex that the tank is full but it will shut down water flow. As soon as there is more room for more water the RODI will resume operation. If you take small amounts of water from the brute frequently this will cause a short cycling condition that will burn DI very quickly.

You need a float switch that tells the apex when to turn off the solenoid until the low switch is triggered. Just like what you have to tell the system to turn on but in reverse.

 

[jml1149]

Oye. This is what you need. I promise. The float valve closes, closing the upstream switch cutting off flow into RO filter.

 

[mpderksen]

All great info, thanks. So, I want a float SWITCH to tell the Apex that the tank is full. Then I want the Apex to trigger a VALVE that stops source water from getting to the RODI. I can put a hold code in the Apex virtual outlet to keep it from cycling (good tip).
I have a breakout box next to the Brute and know what float SWITCH I'm getting. There is also an EB4 there. So, what do I buy that the Apex can trigger to stop the flow?

 

[BigBlueTang]

All great info, thanks. So, I want a float SWITCH to tell the Apex that the tank is full. Then I want the Apex to trigger a VALVE that stops source water from getting to the RODI. I can put a hold code in the Apex virtual outlet to keep it from cycling (good tip).
I have a breakout box next to the Brute and know what float SWITCH I'm getting. There is also an EB4 there. So, what do I buy that the Apex can trigger to stop the flow?

A solenoid should work, although I'm not sure if they sell plastic ones. Obviously you can't use a copper one after the RODI..

 

[jewlz]

A solenoid should work, although I'm not sure if they sell plastic ones. Obviously you can't use a copper one after the RODI..

A Solenoid Valve... The Solenoid actuates the valve, you wouldn't get far with just the solenoid.

They do make plastic ones. You can get them on Ebay or even at one of the forum sponsor websites that deals with RODI.

 

[mpderksen]

Can I get a link and description in really simple words?

 

[BigBlueTang]

A Solenoid Valve... The Solenoid actuates the valve, you wouldn't get far with just the solenoid.



They do make plastic ones. You can get them on Ebay or even at one of the forum sponsor websites that deals with RODI.

Yeah sorry that's what I meant, forgot to add the valve, thanks for catching that!



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[tkeracer619]

This is the solenoid valve you want.

http://autotopoff.com/Solenoids/index.html

1/4" Stainless, Normally Closed with 1/4" Tube Fittings


You also want an ASOV and a float valve. If your apex misses the float switch this will prevent a flood.

 

[mpderksen]

Thanks for the help!

 

[tkeracer619]

You're welcome!

 

[mpderksen]

Old post, but I just got my 2 plastic 55-gallon drums in place, skin I'm ready to get the float switches to indicate a high and low level for both drums. Looks like the horizontal ones going in the side of the barrel keeps the electronics dry and would be a better choice?


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[mpderksen]

Looking at the horizontal float valves, I'm not sure how I can install it if the top only has a bung hole. Can't reach inside to place it.
Anyone have a better idea for this?


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[Horace]

What would the apex code look like for the hold?

I have mine simply set for Low, and high (in case the low sticks). But you do have a good point. Rather than letting it cycle on/off several times per day, it would be ideal to have it only on maybe 1 or two times per day, and even tune it to only be on for an appropriate amount of time to refill the amount of water needed. This would also serve as a safety to ensure you dont have a continuous flow in the case of a tank/sump leak. I also have a water leak detector that will close off the ro feed tube if it gets wet, but ANY additional safety measure is welcome.

 

[mpderksen]

Just to clarify what I'm trying to do. Assuming both barrels are currently empty. 1 is for RO/DI fresh water, the second is for Saltwater for my DOS auto-water change. Currently, the Apex is doing 6,000 ml/day, or about 1.5 gallons. I haven't gone through a winter with this tank, but the 75 gallon tank was using ~1 gal/day for ATO. I am estimating about twice that given this is a 150 gallon tank. My hope is that I'll get 3+ weeks out of each 55 gallon barrel.
When I'm ready to make one, or both, I turn on the RO/DI system, on bypass until I see TDS<10. This takes 5-10 minutes. Then I engage the resin and start making water. Once the 55 gallons are made, the top float switch will activate, closing the water supply, send me a text, and not re-engage until I reset it. I get the text, go to the garage and manually turn off the system. When the water runs out, it sends me a text, and stops the DOS from running (this part is already working).
What I need at this point is a recommendation for some reliable float switches that I can drill into the side of the plastic barrels. Once that's done, I'll get the water supply shut-off part done.


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