RODSTAR'S REEF ROOM - 561G Display Tank

This will be an amazing setup once your done! You have a killer fish room! Def will be tagging along for the rest of this build!
 
Wow, I didn't realize I didn't post any new pictures!

Okay, here are some shots of the tank with lights in place. That is my 15yo daughter in the tank.

In these shots you can also see the return lines front and back. They are both powered by a single Super Dart Gold.

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Okay, these are some shots of the tank filling.

The rock that you see in bubble wrap is from MarcoRocks.

The rest fo the rock on the floor is from Bulk Reef Supply. I bought 100# of pukani dry rock, plus a jumbo complex branching rock and a jumbo complex shelf. Those things were huge and heavy.

In the tank I also added my live rock that was chillin in the eel tank.

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So, I managed to get the drain lines complete and finished filling the tank.

I have discovered three more leaks right at the bulkheads on one side, so I had to shut it down and I will have to fix those.

On the other side I have no leaks but that side does the flushing thing. The water rises and then flushes. I know I have done something wrong, I just can't figure out what.

I ended up going with modified durso drains and not bean animals. I could probably even get away with a single drain on either side, but that would be dangerous.

Oh, and I messed up big time. In my rish to get this beast running I forgot to put valves on the drain lines. So, I can't even adjust them. Well, looks like another week until I get time to cut and re-do all the pipes.
 
Rodstar - super build and thread! Your system is my dream down the road. If possible can you post a couple pics of the beananimal end- did Miracles notch the ends to feed external overflows? Can't tell if you have both internal and external boxes. Thanks! I am planning only external.
 
Just a quick update this morning:

I managed to get the overflows balanced and all tanks are running!.

But, as I think I mentioned in a previous post, I blew out my last baffle. Because of that baffle not being in place, I have millions of microbubbles in the DT. Not sure how I am going to fix this as i have no way of getting into the sump....

I tried the suggestion from online to use EPDM weather stripping and jam it into place, but the pressure was too great.

I am now thinking about building some sort of pvc bracing to hold it in place, but not sure yet.

I was also thinking about filter socks but I have 10 drain lines all squished together in the return area and that isn't very conducive to putting them on and taking them off.

ARGHHH....

I am open to suggestions.
 
Just a quick update this morning:

I managed to get the overflows balanced and all tanks are running!.

But, as I think I mentioned in a previous post, I blew out my last baffle. Because of that baffle not being in place, I have millions of microbubbles in the DT. Not sure how I am going to fix this as i have no way of getting into the sump....

I tried the suggestion from online to use EPDM weather stripping and jam it into place, but the pressure was too great.

I am now thinking about building some sort of pvc bracing to hold it in place, but not sure yet.

I was also thinking about filter socks but I have 10 drain lines all squished together in the return area and that isn't very conducive to putting them on and taking them off.

ARGHHH....

I am open to suggestions.

How can you not get into or get to your sump?
 
I can get to it...barely. The sump is a 180g located under the display tank. There is about 4" of clearance between the to if the sump and the stand above it.
In addition I have 3 1.5" drain lines that run across the to p of the sump from the far overflow to the other end of the sump where I have 11 pipes draining into the sump.
6 from the display tank (3 on each side)
2 from the eel tank
1 from the fuge
1 from the skimmer
1 from the frag tank

But I was able to fix the problem. Details coming soon

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
Still, 4" is pretty small clearance to get into your sump. You will find yourself constantly needing to get in there to fix/change things, not to mention vacuum it out once or twice a year. Is there any way you could tee some of those returns together so that you have fewer returns emptying into the sump?

Dave.M
 
In my first tank (125g) I plumbed the overflows together and drained them to the basement. I ended up running separate lines because t'ing them together severely restricted the flow.

I think I will be okay.

I was able to fix my microbubble problem with two combined solutions to add another baffle.

First, I used EPDM to make the baffle fit snugly. I but, with almost 6000gph going through the 180g sump from one end to the other, it didn't hold for a second.

So, I built a bracing set-up using 1 .5" pvc pipes.

First, I created a U. The top of the U is against the wall of the aquarium on the left. The bottom of the U is on the right, where the baffle belongs and the U lays flat on the bottom of the sump. I then added two T's to the bottom of the U and ran pipe vertically up each T. The baffle is pushed up against it and it stays perfectly!

It required a bit of assembly inside the sump because I couldn't build all outside and then put it in.

Here is a picture of it at the baffle (the pipe with the screen on it goes to the skimmer):

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Hmm. Narrow and long strips of glass might have made for a good stop point. Especially if they weren't that narrow. Then the last plate would have to exude an insane force on the strips that would be in its way of budging. The strips of glass would basically be a silicone sandwich when siliconed to the glass sump wall. Could even do a strip on the glass bottom of the sump. That would have worked with the narrow space you had also.

Glad you found another working solution! Amazing what one can come up with due to necessity.

Cheers,
Gordon
 
Rodstar,
quick question for you and i apologize if this was already talked about but why do you have 6000GPH flow through your sump. That will make your skimmer extremely inefficient.

Rob
 
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