Rotifer water quality

I don't think it's the salt, but the phyto (large food source) is definitely one thing that helps them boom.

I just spoke to one of our scientists and he said no worries on Mortons (even with iodine in it) and well water. He did say it would be best to either bleach the water or boil it prior to use.

I didn't ask about getting rid of them. I know we worked on that a little while back to get us clean and clear of them. I'll ask and report back tomorrow.
 
I don't think it's the salt, but the phyto (large food source) is definitely one thing that helps them boom.

I just spoke to one of our scientists and he said no worries on Mortons (even with iodine in it) and well water. He did say it would be best to either bleach the water or boil it prior to use.

I didn't ask about getting rid of them. I know we worked on that a little while back to get us clean and clear of them. I'll ask and report back tomorrow.

Thats awesome, thanks for the help.
 
I think I can add a bit of clarity on the issue of glass tanks without actually knowing why what I am doing is working. To start off, I can't keep a rotifer culture going in a rectangular glass tank. However, I now use 2G glass jars situated near the door of my breeding shed. They get plenty of light from a tank next to them and from the door when it is open.

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In the second image the line is just over 2cm long so you can get some sort of idea of rotifer density (I have never measured rotifer density). They get fed with Rotifer Diet and are very easy but take a bit of time to maintain. I have a couple of backup cultures is plastic drums outside in full weather which get totally neglected except for feeding.

My rotifers are fine in glass jars and with light so I don't think either of these factors crash cultures. I think it is more likely to be the shape of the glass tanks that create inadequate circulation in the tank.

Just my theory, hope it helps.

Graham
 
I meant to post yesterday about "dead zones" created bu square and rectangular tanks. I think that plays a big part in it. Clear in general produces less dense cultures we've found, whether it's plastic or glass, especially is you are using paste and not live.

The scientist I need to talk to re: getting rid of ciliates is not in today so I sent him a text message. I'll try to reply to that question this weekend if he gets back to me.
 
Hoff's plankton culture manual mentions rinsing the rots (in a sieve) with fresh water in order to dislodge the ciliates from the rots. Than placing the cleaned rots into a fresh culture container.
 
Gresham - That would certainly make sense. I don't get anywhere near the rotifer densities that Rotifer Diet is supposed to be able to produce but I get more than enough for my small hatchery. I also get heaps more rots using 3 x 2G jars and Rotifer Diet than I ever managed to get from live phyto and a 40G drum.
 
Hoff's plankton culture manual mentions rinsing the rots (in a sieve) with fresh water in order to dislodge the ciliates from the rots. Than placing the cleaned rots into a fresh culture container.

Bill, am I reading correctly "rinsing with fresh water" or does that mean new/clean saltwater?

I was under the asumption if the rots were exposed to water with a change of SG more than .007 they become useless.
 
Bill, am I reading correctly "rinsing with fresh water" or does that mean new/clean saltwater?

I was under the asumption if the rots were exposed to water with a change of SG more than .007 they become useless.

Actual fresh water, no salt. I expect the temperate exposure might set back production a bit, but won't kill them for such a short duration.
 
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