rotifers feedings

MimicTang

In Memoriam
I get the math part of how many rotifers should be in so many gallons but I know none of you sit there and measure them out. How do you eyeball it?
 
And if you're co-culturing, you don't want more than that, probably even a little less as the rotifers will take off long before the fry become proficient at hunting them.
 
Re: rotifers feedings

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8163825#post8163825 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MimicTang
I get the math part of how many rotifers should be in so many gallons but I know none of you sit there and measure them out. How do you eyeball it?

We count triple samples per culture, daily, under the scope. Egg counts are taken daily as well.
 
I think it goes something like this:
Draw a circle on the glass about the size of a dime.
What you can count in that circle is roughly what the density is per ml.
Sound right?

I grew up with a fairly large family, so I apply the same principles here. Namely: they gets what they gets, 'cause I ain't gots no mo'.:D
Fortunately I've always had way more than I needed.
 
I have had quite a few fish die from exploding bellies..... Due to eating too many rots?... Anyone else seen this? Particularly on day 1 and 2

This is why i add less rots rather than too many?...

For those whi have had the situation how did they go when you have far too many in there?? Did you get losses due to exploding fish?... (well maybe not exploding but you get the idea!)
 
I have had quite a few fish die from exploding bellies.....

I have heard of this happening, but only NHBS. What kind of fish are you raising?

A fast and easy way I have found to count Rots was with a small 5ml syringe. You don't need the needle just the syringe. Just pull a 5ml sample and count the rots between the 1ml marks on the syringe. Depending on your eyesight, and hand held magnifying glass might be helpful.
 
but it wont be the same everytime. Why dont you feed smaller portions more times daily? Then the stomach wont be as full each time?
 
Black and White osc.
They pretty good eaters!!... I got 115 through Met that batch and lost maybe 50 to the exploding belly thing!....
Guess overfeeding is better than under eh?

I am somewhat constrained by work times. I have to go to work at 8 and come home somewhere near 5:30 6ish so they get two good feeds a day ... Not ideal but seems to work ok.

Starting to run out of tank space at the moment....
130 in main tank at about 2 to 3 cm (~1 inch for all you americans) and with about 150 in a smaller tank at about 1-1.5 cm ..... there are a few about the place!
Not that I am complaining about that for a problem!!
:D
 
rotifer question

rotifer question

Hello everyone. I am a newbie to rotifers. I set up a 10 gallon tank at the beginning of the week for rotifers that I ordered online. The rotifers arrived in a bag with green water. I set my tank up at the same salt level as the rotifers were in. I keep my water a green tint with algae paste and I take about 2 gallons out each night. I drain what I take out threw a 53 micron. I put the water back into the tank after I drain my rotifers thru the micron seive. The bottom of my tank has a solid coat of green on the bottom of it. It looks like there are a lot of little black dots in the green coat on the bottom of the tank. I can see many many tiny things swimming or floating in the water so I assume that would be the rotifers. Is the green coat on the bottom of the tank ok or do I need to drain it all out into another tank and start over? Like I said I am new to this and dont really know much about it. I am trying to get lots of rotifers because my seahorses are breeding.
 
I have been feeding my 10gal rotifer tank 1/2 to 3/4 cup home cultered green water. population looks good, need to count. this sound about right to maintain healty levels????
 
Much is going to depend on how much light that your rotifer tank is getting, and the population density.

Its pretty hard to overfeed a rotifer tank with green water/phytoplankton. I have added rotifers to well established tanks of phyto and had them clear the green in a week.

One thing not mentioned, or I missed it, adding selcon or selcon plus to the rotifers is a major plus to their food value.

Back to the original qurestion, as is often said, add enough phyto to add a green tinge to the tank, myself I try to go heavy. Some aeration and daily siphoning of the bottom is needed.

Lastly the syringe or 'dime on the glass' rule both work and become almost automatic. To start draw some syringes to get an idea, then try the 'dime' method.
 
Jake, are you using live phyto or the instant stuff?

I use both, but when I use the instant to culture rotifers, i am careful not to over feed. When I am using live phyto, I can overfeed with no ill effect. Once I overdid it with the dead stuff, and I got smelly dead rotifers.
 
Sounds like you didn't use enough ammonia control. I use a liter a day in each of our systems. Granted two are flow thru's, but one isn't. With enough Chloramx and daily harvest/cleaning of rotifer floss, I don't have those "smelly" problems :D We could never achieve our usual 5K per ml, up to 10K an ML, on live phyto, that's for sure.
 
GreshamH,

Can you elaborate on that rotifer floss, and no don't send me the link, whats the best way of incorporating that to a small culture.

your inbox is full...

Ed
 
Inbox schim box :D I even paid hoping to increase that :lol:

Well that depends on your vessal. Is it round? Where's you air source, center? If yes to all those, hang it on both sides of you air (across the tank) and a couple inches off the bottom (that can very due to depth>water movement, so make you own judgement). You'll need to wait the bottoms down with something. You will get some rotifers locked up in the floss, but if your doing a semi dense culture, the loss won't effect you much, if at all.
 
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