pandimus
Active member
Thanks.. Wasn't sure there was other reasons other than funds..
Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them
- Thread starter kc350twin
- Start date
Redman88
New member
If money wasn't an issue I'd have gone with square tanks that would hold more water in the same foot print, but they are all kinds of expensive compared to a $35 brute can........
sjeff35
New member
RO/DI storage does have a few inches of reserve capacity at the low water switch mark so there is always water available for ATO, transfer pump has it's own low water switch in the RO/DI container so I can't run the RO/DI storage dry while filling the AWC and Salt Mixing container. I just have to take the AWC offline for a day or so while refilling and mixing a new batch of Saltwater. I only had room for two brute cans so have to make due.
RO/DI storage on the left, AWC and Saltwater container on the right.
What kind of bulkheads did you use on those bottom outlets? I've got a Uniseal in mine, but I don't trust it.
Thanks
pandimus
Active member
Those look like heavy duty
Sonicboom
Addicted to salt
RO/DI storage does have a few inches of reserve capacity at the low water switch mark so there is always water available for ATO, transfer pump has it's own low water switch in the RO/DI container so I can't run the RO/DI storage dry while filling the AWC and Salt Mixing container. I just have to take the AWC offline for a day or so while refilling and mixing a new batch of Saltwater. I only had room for two brute cans so have to make due.
RO/DI storage on the left, AWC and Saltwater container on the right.
funny there are 35 gallons of water next to plants that look to be dying from lack of water...lol
805reef
New member
I spent the money on 2 square tanks... They look great without water in them, but once I filled them with water they bowed out so much I had to build a frame around them...
Errr???
Lowes specials, heavey duty, they were like $7. can crank them down nice and tight to get a good seal on the flexible brute cans. the smaller gray bulkheads were 1/4" threaded from US Plastics also pretty darn heavy duty to make it easy to hook up the ATO and AWC lines.
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Hey now, that's their dormant period. LOL! they are supposed to look dead. Actually that's what's left that wasn't put outside for the summer at the time of the pic...............you can't see in the pics but my basement dwelling plants have an irrigation system fed from my RO/DI during the winter months........only the left overs go thirsty, :lolspin:
sjeff35
New member
Thanks, I'll try them!
Sonicboom
Addicted to salt
Haha, no offense its a sweet setup
Reefinny
Building my Reef
You can see mine in this post. Two 100 gallon containers.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2497330
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2497330
Just completed mine too. Full details:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23688563#post23688563
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23688563#post23688563
Been really enjoying this thread and I'm currently building my Salt water changing station, with that said thought I'd pass along a deal and F&F, they have Norwesco Horizontal leg tanks on sail through the 26th.
http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/064726-norwesco-horizontal-leg-tank.html
http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/064726-norwesco-horizontal-leg-tank.html
I appreciate all who have taken the time to share their WC setups, the different designs and ideas were a big help when I finally decided to build mine. I hope this post can help someone who's been thinking of building their own. Here's mine.. hope it makes sense
Two 40gal poly tanks. RO/DI fills the top tank in the pic and also a 7gal ATO reservoir that's under the tank next to the sump.. both are connected to the same RO/DI unit with a T fitting. When the ATO tank in the house is full it stops flow via mechanical float, then water runs to the top tank in the garage which also has a float valve installed. Apex controls a solenoid that turns the RO/DI on once a day.. an hour seems to be enough to fill the ATO and usually give the WC tank 2-3 gallons or so. Also have leak sensors connected to the Apex that are next to the ATO, RO/DI unit, and tank in the garage.. it'll shut down the solenoid if water is detected and also send me a text message. After 10-14 days I have enough fresh water (top tank) for a water change. Just open a couple valves and the water fills the salt tank on the bottom which has a heater, powerhead, and temp gauge. I usually always have 35 gallons mixed and ready to go..
I've been carrying 5gal buckets of water for years and was finally tired of it.. so I made this. I turn off the return pump, skimmer, ATO, and couple reactors but leave all powerheads in the DT tank on.
After the DT has stopped draining into the sump, I mark the water level (very important) with an erasable marker on the sump. Then drop this pump into the sump and run the hose out a window to my backyard.
When I've drained enough I turn the pump off, but leave it in the sump. I grab the end of hose that's outside and connect it to the WC station.. this is why I installed female connectors (both made of plastic) on both ends of the hose. I open a couple valves, turn the WC pump on, fill the sump back up to my water level mark made earlier with marker and the WC is done. Turn everything back on, pull the pump out of the sump, roll up the hose, flush with fresh water for storage and that's it
Two 40gal poly tanks. RO/DI fills the top tank in the pic and also a 7gal ATO reservoir that's under the tank next to the sump.. both are connected to the same RO/DI unit with a T fitting. When the ATO tank in the house is full it stops flow via mechanical float, then water runs to the top tank in the garage which also has a float valve installed. Apex controls a solenoid that turns the RO/DI on once a day.. an hour seems to be enough to fill the ATO and usually give the WC tank 2-3 gallons or so. Also have leak sensors connected to the Apex that are next to the ATO, RO/DI unit, and tank in the garage.. it'll shut down the solenoid if water is detected and also send me a text message. After 10-14 days I have enough fresh water (top tank) for a water change. Just open a couple valves and the water fills the salt tank on the bottom which has a heater, powerhead, and temp gauge. I usually always have 35 gallons mixed and ready to go..
I've been carrying 5gal buckets of water for years and was finally tired of it.. so I made this. I turn off the return pump, skimmer, ATO, and couple reactors but leave all powerheads in the DT tank on.
After the DT has stopped draining into the sump, I mark the water level (very important) with an erasable marker on the sump. Then drop this pump into the sump and run the hose out a window to my backyard.
When I've drained enough I turn the pump off, but leave it in the sump. I grab the end of hose that's outside and connect it to the WC station.. this is why I installed female connectors (both made of plastic) on both ends of the hose. I open a couple valves, turn the WC pump on, fill the sump back up to my water level mark made earlier with marker and the WC is done. Turn everything back on, pull the pump out of the sump, roll up the hose, flush with fresh water for storage and that's it
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I though those Jebao's couldn't run outside water. Have you had issues doing that?
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Yeah I did, it leaked a little bit.. it was only a few drops but it was enough for me. When I bought the pump I didnt know some of them were leaking when used externally. So I pulled the housing off the end and cut/fit a 1/4" rubber gasket for it. Not one leak since then, but I still keep that valve on the bottom tank closed at all times between water changes.
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