Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

Did you call them? Online they are all listed as costing shipping but on the phone typically they will waive that. I got mine when they were free shipping on the web but I have gotten some for local reefers where they waived shipping.

Tractor supply is another option if you have one locally.

Oh yes, tractor Supply.... Thanks Brother!!
 
Love how neat and tidy this looks! Not to be critical but out of concern, is that electrical box safe? I put all my electrical above drip zones and to our local code. I mean my husband did...lol.

I hadn't thought about drips! I did install a GFCI outlet where I plug everything in, and I changed out that box to a watertight box made for the outside.
 
Are there any commercial pre-built Salt Water Mixing Stations available? Or is it all still DIY?

You can have someone make you one, but the price outweighs getting one. It is better to make it for what you need.

The experience doing the pipe work helps for when you do your own, if you have not done it yet.

In this hobby while there are more things being made for the aquarist, it is still mostly a DIY situation. There are so many people on these forums that someone can give you an idea for your own setup, or you might find a fellow reefer near you than can help you out with design/build.
 
Getting some good ideas from ya'll. I got my tank in my bedroom and don't really have space for tanks. So I am currently using tote boxes and it involves dragging those things around everywhere :(
 
Mixing pumps

Mixing pumps

I want to know what everyone's is using as a mixing pump.
I just built my mixing station using 2x 65g vertical storage tanks. And I got ahold of a used Iwaki 20MD pump.i rebuilt this pump with new bearings and impeller housings as the bearing surface were worn for the impeller. Well at the 4ft of head according to their charts I'm getting about 480gph. This just doesn't seem like it's enough to mix everything thoroughly. Does this seem to be enough to mix the salt properly? And quickly
 
I want to know what everyone's is using as a mixing pump.
I just built my mixing station using 2x 65g vertical storage tanks. And I got ahold of a used Iwaki 20MD pump.i rebuilt this pump with new bearings and impeller housings as the bearing surface were worn for the impeller. Well at the 4ft of head according to their charts I'm getting about 480gph. This just doesn't seem like it's enough to mix everything thoroughly. Does this seem to be enough to mix the salt properly? And quickly

I have two vertical 55gal tanks and use an Iwaki 40RXT pump that I picked up used. It seems to be more than enough. In fact, I never have the outlet valve for my hose connection fully open (used during water changes or filling my ATO container). I don't have anything to mix the flow with in the SW tank, I just dump the water into the top and draw from the bottom, and I've never had an issue with salt not mixing properly or quickly.

- Ivan
 
You can have someone make you one, but the price outweighs getting one. It is better to make it for what you need.



The experience doing the pipe work helps for when you do your own, if you have not done it yet.



In this hobby while there are more things being made for the aquarist, it is still mostly a DIY situation. There are so many people on these forums that someone can give you an idea for your own setup, or you might find a fellow reefer near you than can help you out with design/build.



Good idea. I think I'll have my plumber come help me build one. That way I learn and I don't have a major leak and mess!


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I used a Jebao DCT6000. Cheap. Power efficient. Mine are used on my awc system. Takes 12 hours to mix fully on my 55g tank. Plenty of water movement. I run it 4 times a day for 15 min just to stir it

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I'm currently working on getting mine set up along with a Neptune DOS so I can run continuous water changes. It will also server as my ATO. Hopefully the days of lugging 5g buckets up and down the steps are gone.

The RODI tank (on the right) has two float switches. The bottom switch will open a solenoid that controls the RODI system feed from the tap. The top switch will close the solenoid. In the event that it doesn't, the RODI feed is attached to a BRS float switch that will manually turn off the system.

The NSW tank only has a low float switch for now which will disable the DOS until I can transfer water from the RODI tank and mix the salt.

I've piped the drain from both the DOS and the RODI into the side of the sink, so no worries about flooding the basement from those lines. I'm also planning on leak detection sensors for the Neptune.

I ran a CAT 6 (solid core) line from the float switches to the BoB that's under the tank. It seemed like an easy way to get enough wire for 4 switches and they are even color coded. :)

I also ran lines for the ATO feed, DOS feed and DOS drain.

I spent more than I should so it looked pretty. I'm going to be the only one that ever sees it, but it makes me happy.

Now all I have to do is figure out how to program the Apex. I've used it for a few years, but only for the basics. I'm completely lost when it comes to any of the higher level stuff, like virtual outlets, Defer, OSC, etc.

Anyway, here are a few pictures.

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I ended putting a older blue line 70 on my mixing station. It may be slightly over kill but it moves everything how I want it.:lol:
 
read this whole thread and saw some great layouts!

what id like to know is what everyone is using to control their rodi into their freshwater tank. that is whats stopping the ro water going into the tank once its full? you guys just using a simple float valve since its pure clean water?
 
read this whole thread and saw some great layouts!

what id like to know is what everyone is using to control their rodi into their freshwater tank. that is whats stopping the ro water going into the tank once its full? you guys just using a simple float valve since its pure clean water?

I have a two fold approach. I have a solenoid on the feed line from the tap. It's opened and closed by my Apex based on feedback from a float switch at the top of the tank.

If for some reason that were to fail, the RO system has a mechanical float that trips the pressure shutoff. I just put the mechanical float higher than the one used to control the Apex.

I also added the ALD module and threw in a sensor. I'm automating water changes out of the other 65g tank, so the last thing I need is a flood.
 
I have a two fold approach. I have a solenoid on the feed line from the tap. It's opened and closed by my Apex based on feedback from a float switch at the top of the tank.

If for some reason that were to fail, the RO system has a mechanical float that trips the pressure shutoff. I just put the mechanical float higher than the one used to control the Apex.

I also added the ALD module and threw in a sensor. I'm automating water changes out of the other 65g tank, so the last thing I need is a flood.

wouldn't this method cause creep going on and off all the time? sounds like a safe set up but im trying to figure out something just as safe but a low level on turn on and a high level off turn off.
 
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