SC Aquariums Owners Thread

I forgot about the height in the equation aiding gravity.

I guess I never had to think about my GPH since I run a fluval SP6 and even with headloss can push over 2K GPH into the tank if needed.
 
It would be great under the tank,but not enough head pressure for me due to the sump being in the basement. Is it pretty quiet as well?

Maybe just making this too complicated and difficult- I just know that if you can do a Coast to coast overflow setup your skimmer works way better and you don't have to spend 500 on a skimmer. I have a decent, but not super high end ASM G3 skimmer that I have modified quite a bit ( gate valve, bigger /better pump,etc ) and was hoping to continue using it on the 150. And I hate the scum on the top of the water in a tank that does not have enough surface skimming (like my current 65 with a corner overflow) .
 
Thanks Devaji!

SoulPatch, no. On the Herbie system, the 2nd pipe is supposed to trickle. You can't keep a full syphoned pipe balanced indefinitely. Herbie himself said that on his thread. Bean Animal, on the other hand, has a 3rd pipe that's supposed to be dry the whole time except emergency. That also comes from his own mouth on reef central.
 
I talked to herbie about the second pip in depth not that long ago. Should you set the second pipe for a trickle then you are over the amount a single pipe would drain and you have the tank out of balance should the siphon clog.

Beam it is supposed to trickle to account for fluctuations which the herbie doesn't handle well. That is why the bean is preferred. Less tuning
 
No. Unless he changed his mind in the last few months (Herbie) stated that the emergence/trickle pipe should be bigger than the syphoned pipe for the reason alone- a clogged syphoned pipe.
 
Perhaps trickle if emergency is larger but when same size as drain it should run dry if possible so as to handle load of siphon pipe.
 
You should always put a gate/ball valve on the syphoned pipe to regulate the flow. That's how you keep the pump/return balanced to begin with. Once it has a valve in place, the emergency pipe can be the same size as the syphoned yet able to handle much bigger volume in the event should the syphoned pipe clogged.
 
While I have a gate on every pipe there is no reason to really touch the gate on the siphon as the return should be gated and dialed in to adjust flow. Why would you want to reduce your siphon to restrict the size of a drain that you wanted for the flow? Makes no sense other then perhaps for the finest of tuning but the main valve to be touched should be that of your return...

Listen if you want a trickle in your emergency be my guest. I prefer to have my emergency inlet slightly above the very bottom of the weir teeth so that it runs dry but will switch over to full siphon if needed without any concern in the tank.
 
I have no problem what you wanna do with your plumbing either. I just want people to know what a true Herbie or a Bean Animal is. Return pipe with no gate valve? Hahaha unless you are thinking of the old durso plumbing, perhaps you should do a little more researching.
 
WHat are you talking about? I have a gate on every line in my tank and just stated I gate off the return as opposed to the main siphon. If you are going to attempt to counter someone at least read first.

I have researched as well as discussed with Herbie. I have tried to meet up with him as well as he is not that far from me.

That said I have run all types of plumbing over the years. Durso, gurgle buster, herbie, and bean. I prefer bean due to it not being as fickle It truly is a set and forget since you have the third pipe. That said the herbie is just as safe and for me needs adjusted about once every six months.

You can see the multiple valves, manifold, and everything else in my build thread. I wont say you need to research per say but you should be leary and ready what one posts before you attempt to counter...



Regardless this is not the thread to discuss drain types or the specifics of such. Feel free to PM me should you wish to continue this back and forth so as to keep this thread clean.
 
Let's just put it this way- we both have the SCA 150. I challenge you to run your syphoned hose/pipe on their 1" set up without a gate valve. Tell me how your overflow box or pump can keep up or not. Since you "have a gate in every single line" of your system, it's funny how you insisted that you don't need a gate for the syphoned return. Contradiction much?
In fact, you should never put a gate valve on your emergency pipe.
 
I don't get what you are asking. I have already stated I have a gate on my return that I use for tuning. So *** are you trying to get at?

You should never USE a valve on your emergency to tune though it is beneficial to have one what you want to change plumbing or disconnect a sump for a swap like I am about to do. Ever line from my tank has ability to be shut off at the base of the tank to maje any edits I need.

Where did I state that one does not need a valve for the return? I said I used one. You do not need a valve for the drain if you use one on your return instead to tune.

I believe in redundancy and ability to turn off any portion of my plumbing. I overuse valves and unions in my builds so I can take out a section. If you want to run more simplistic and not have valves and unions everywhere more power to you.

Seriously dude its like you are reading what you want to read and not what I am typing.


This is last I will post on this. PM me from here on about the plumbing. I will take any pics or vids you wish to show the system is running and silent. I will turn valves for you as well and speak SLOWLY so you can follow along if needed.



As for the opening in the canopy... 1 foot by 52 3/8" is the full opening. If the front door is open it eats about 2 inches of the opening as it overlaps some.
 
Oh no. You are the one only read what you wanna read. You said you had every line gated, not me. You said you didn't need a gate on the syphoned pipe, not me. I said you needed one. I never said anything about the return line. Yes, return line needs a gate too but that was a given. Like I said, just read the official page. Maybe you will see how they work since they have pictures.
 
I sent you a PM. You can handle it through there. Having a valve on a line does not mean it is utilized for tuning. It is just smart planning and someone one should do no matter what drain system they chose to run.
 
I think there is a misunderstanding there. There are 3 pipes in a Herbie system-
One pipe that connects the pump back to the DT is called return line.
One pipe that runs a full syphon from DT to sump is called the syphoned/drain line.
One pipe that either stays dry or trickles water to sump is called emergency.

This is also the last of what I would say on this matter.
 
GoGo - Thank you for the link to the descriptions.

SOUL - Thank you for measuring the top - do you have the Walnut or the Cherry?

** I am so sorry for deflecting this great thread into what happened today**

Ok - lets get back to the Thread = Pictures and descriptions on everybody's builds.
 
I have the walnut. You can see pics in my build thread on here and I can take any pics you need if it will help you with your decision.
 
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