SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[kevin_e]

Anyone have a pic of the cabinet interior for the 50?

Is there room to mount to 5" mini reactors from BRS and 2 1.1 ml BRS dosing pumps?

 

[homer1475]

According to GMAC reef(the original setup guide for a herbie), you want a gate valve on the siphon and thats it. Also the emergency should just trickle so your not constantly adjusting the valve to keep the water level right at the top of the emergency.

This is exactly how I have mine plumbed.

Perfectly balancing the water level until it remains totally still inside the overflow is difficult and time-consuming to achieve even with a Gate valve. Although it can appear stable and stay that way for a while, slight variations in the system such as changes in resistance of water through the plumbing will inherently change the rate of flow over hours or days. For example, the growth of slime in the pipes.

Simply by allowing a very slight trickle of water to enter through the emergency standpipe at all times, you sidestep the nearly impossible requirement of perfectly adjusting the valve. We are talking a trickle here "” just enough to negate the need for constant fiddling, but still allowing the emergency drain ample capacity if needed.

And a word about a valve on the emergency

Emergency Drain Setup

This drain is what makes the system fail-safe in the event of the main valve standpipe getting clogged. It should be designed simply as a straight (as possible) unrestricted pipe going down into the sump and into the water, never joined with other pipes.
An open-ended standpipe will act as an alarm in a way. With only a small trickle of water seeping into it, it will make no noise. If there is a partial blockage of the siphon line, then the Emergency drain will start to take on more water and you will hear a loud hollow noise, alerting you that it needs attention. This is one reason that you should not try to muffle the Emergency drain.
You want the emergency to have max capacity, so most people leave it open and don't use a strainer on this pipe.
Don't install a valve on the emergency pipe "” just don't"¦no good can come of it.

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

 

[homer1475]

Sorry I was one page back and didn't realize it when I saw everyone arguing about the drains and posted the above.

 

[Devaji108]

Anyone have a pic of the cabinet interior for the 50?

Is there room to mount to 5" mini reactors from BRS and 2 1.1 ml BRS dosing pumps?

I Am sure there is I think jayball has I build thread in that section. his tank is clean and sweet.
also join the SCA FB group there are looks of pics there of ppls 50s.

 

[pelphrey]

Luckily I stumbled across this thread even after 2 days of searching the web, it was hard to find! I was originally looking at the 120 gallon for the depth, but after looking at the 150 I am now leaning in that direction since it is 60x24x24. I plan to build my own stand so I can have the height and will use 2x6's for the top bracing. What size ply wood should be on top of the stand? I see where a lot of people use either 1/2 or 3/4.

I currently have a Kessil A160 and I plan to use it along with 2 360's. Will the Kessil mounts work with the Eurobracing?

Steve with SCA responded to a few of my questions yesterday and I was thrilled to hear that they are now using 3 holes in the overflow of both the 120 and the 150!

 

[davocean]

I always use 3/4" ply on top, you could use same for bottom or get away w/ 1/2" on the bottom if you choose to add a bottom panel, I always do, catches minor spills, adds strength to stand.
Not sure on the kessil mounts but I'm sure they can be made to fit one way or another.

 

[davocean]

I Am sure there is I think jayball has I build thread in that section. his tank is clean and sweet.
also join the SCA FB group there are looks of pics there of ppls 50s.

I looked and there are like a ton of pages w/ the name SCA, and 2 groups I saw sc aquariums, but neither had much activity or photos

 

[pelphrey]

I looked and there are like a ton of pages w/ the name SCA, and 2 groups I saw sc aquariums, but neither had much activity or photos

Not sure if this will work - https://m.facebook.com/groups/1596186693960582?tsid=0.4835507310926914&source=typeahead

They are SCA Aquariums on Facebook and it's a closed group. Steve will approve you.

 

[pelphrey]

I always use 3/4" ply on top, you could use same for bottom or get away w/ 1/2" on the bottom if you choose to add a bottom panel, I always do, catches minor spills, adds strength to stand.
Not sure on the kessil mounts but I'm sure they can be made to fit one way or another.

Thanks! I saw in a previous thread you created that you're a carpenter. The last stand I built used the 4 screw strips, I'd like to use pocket screws this time. I actually thought about using 2x6 as the legs and putting wood filler in the seams and not skinning the stand. I'd like to counter sink magnets and make the front and 2 sides removable. What are your thoughts on pocket screws, as well as laying the 2x4 down on the bottom frame to insert the ply wood inside of the stand. Figure I'd gain a inch in height by doing that.

I plan to put 2 braces in the back of the stand and I'll cover the entire back with ply wood to reduce any noise with cutouts for power and ventilation.

Thanks in advance!

 

[davocean]

Nice, submitted, thank you for that link!

 

[davocean]

Well, 2x6 for legs would be a bit overkill and bulky IMO, I'd stick w/ the 2x4 L
As for filling seams and painting frame members, I have seen many do this but it just never seems to look very clean IMO and it's a lot of work.
Pocket screws work great, especially for face frame or narrower framework like 1x or ply.
I personally make 2 changes to rockets design, I do lay my bottom 2x flat and add a ply bottom below that, it helps tie all together and adds a great deal of strength, helps keep from racking.
The other thing I do different is a 2x4 cap on top of framing laid flat, and then my ply top on top of that.
I just started building stands this way long before seeing anyone elses design, but either will work fine.
if you cover the back completely to reduce sound keep in mind it may hold heat and moisture, so I'd at least add vents of some kind if you do that.

 

[pelphrey]

Well, 2x6 for legs would be a bit overkill and bulky IMO, I'd stick w/ the 2x4 L
As for filling seams and painting frame members, I have seen many do this but it just never seems to look very clean IMO and it's a lot of work.
Pocket screws work great, especially for face frame or narrower framework like 1x or ply.
I personally make 2 changes to rockets design, I do lay my bottom 2x flat and add a ply bottom below that, it helps tie all together and adds a great deal of strength, helps keep from racking.
The other thing I do different is a 2x4 cap on top of framing laid flat, and then my ply top on top of that.
I just started building stands this way long before seeing anyone elses design, but either will work fine.
if you cover the back completely to reduce sound keep in mind it may hold heat and moisture, so I'd at least add vents of some kind if you do that.

The reason for 2x6 legs is to flush mount washers and attach magnets to a front panel that is removable. Figure with the width of the 2x6 it would look better. Would you recommend pocket screws for the legs or use the screw strip?

I would for sure have 2 openings on the back just as you stated. My wife wants the stand white, so that will be easy. White interior and exterior!

So your putting plywood underneath the stand, or just on the interior of the stand?

 

[davocean]

Well, it always ruffles feathers when I say this but personally I think magnets are a bummer for panels, they really don't hold a lot of weight and usually you end up doing a cleat of some kind anyway, and they don't line anything up straight w/out some kind of guide, and to mortise the front panel you have to be careful lining it up and not drill through the face.
Personally I use quick release hinges, which are much easier and cleaner, not expensive, or if you do want a panel a cleat, maybe a french cleat, maybe an aluminum channel cleat that is like a french, and possibly magnets to secure if you are dead set on magnets, some people just love that idea, I just happen to not, but to each their own.
Yes, I do a ply at very bottom, and I seal that really well so it holds spills

 

[acer]

Moving forward with my situation and Steve and I are awaiting some specifics from local acrylic overflow builders that will be making me a low profile coast to coast ( 4 feet long angled internal box x ? inches deep x ? inched high) with an external box ( 24 long x ? deep x ? high) for a Bean Animal plumbing scenario - Steve is going to Drill the back of the tank per my specifications with 2 holes that will accommodate 2 x 1.5 inch bulkheads, as soon as I find out exactly where the acrylic guy wants the holes put to match up with the holes in the internal and external boxes. We will omit the stock overflow completely, they will seal the bottom area that had the stock 3 holes with 3/8 inch glass ( I will request they use 12 mm after thinking about it, which is the same as the other parts of the tank) .

yes !! Thanks again to all that started this thread- I would not had any confidence in this company without you.

 

[915MANG]

Moving forward with my situation and Steve and I are awaiting some specifics from local acrylic overflow builders that will be making me a low profile coast to coast ( 4 feet long angled internal box x ? inches deep x ? inched high) with an external box ( 24 long x ? deep x ? high) for a Bean Animal plumbing scenario - Steve is going to Drill the back of the tank per my specifications with 2 holes that will accommodate 2 x 1.5 inch bulkheads, as soon as I find out exactly where the acrylic guy wants the holes put to match up with the holes in the internal and external boxes. We will omit the stock overflow completely, they will seal the bottom area that had the stock 3 holes with 3/8 inch glass ( I will request they use 12 mm after thinking about it, which is the same as the other parts of the tank) .

yes !! Thanks again to all that started this thread- I would not had any confidence in this company without you.

Coast to Coast is sweet!

 

[915MANG]

The reason for 2x6 legs is to flush mount washers and attach magnets to a front panel that is removable. Figure with the width of the 2x6 it would look better. Would you recommend pocket screws for the legs or use the screw strip?

I would for sure have 2 openings on the back just as you stated. My wife wants the stand white, so that will be easy. White interior and exterior!

So your putting plywood underneath the stand, or just on the interior of the stand?

What Up!!

 

[ian09]

I'm so jealous of all the bigger tanks you guys are building. Someday, I'll upgrade and I'm sure I won't be disappointed with an SC aquarium setup. Here's mine going on 5months. My lil 50g sca setup

 

[acer]

That's " p-u-r-dy" ..... Great picture.

 

[pelphrey]

Well, it always ruffles feathers when I say this but personally I think magnets are a bummer for panels, they really don't hold a lot of weight and usually you end up doing a cleat of some kind anyway, and they don't line anything up straight w/out some kind of guide, and to mortise the front panel you have to be careful lining it up and not drill through the face.
Personally I use quick release hinges, which are much easier and cleaner, not expensive, or if you do want a panel a cleat, maybe a french cleat, maybe an aluminum channel cleat that is like a french, and possibly magnets to secure if you are dead set on magnets, some people just love that idea, I just happen to not, but to each their own.
Yes, I do a ply at very bottom, and I seal that really well so it holds spills

I'll take any advice I can get from someone with a lot more experience then I have! What is a good wood to skin the stand with, my wife wants to paint it all white. We discussed last night and decided we would check out a local cabinet store. They have a garage full of used cabinet doors for next to nothing.

 

[davocean]

I'll take any advice I can get from someone with a lot more experience then I have! What is a good wood to skin the stand with, my wife wants to paint it all white. We discussed last night and decided we would check out a local cabinet store. They have a garage full of used cabinet doors for next to nothing.

Well depending on what you are comfortable w/ woodworking wise, either some clean 1x or a decent quality ply would be fine.
Doors make a stand, so if you find a good deal on something prefabbed you are half way home there.