SC Aquariums Owners Thread

Hey everyone; I am looking at potentially grabbing a 50 or 66 in the next few weeks. I'd like to change the sump out though maybe for something like a Trigger Emerald 26, so I can fit an ATO resevoir in the stand as well.

Has anyone with either of these units changed their sump out completely, as the standard unit takes up what appears to be the entire floor space area of the stand?

While I have the 150 it is the same issue in that the PNP sump is entire width of the stand. I went with a Trigger Ruby Elite 30 to start and am moving to a custom Emerald 40 that I had Trigger build me.

I wouldn't want a sump to take up all of the room unless I had a fish closet nearby or something to use to store things...
 
Thanks soul patch for the prompt reply .
I am sure I will have lot of questions regarding the plumbing but I will wait till I receive and start my tank .

My biggest fear is to hear the tank crack in the middle of night ... Worst nightmare that keeps me from going with a cheaper manufacturer ..

I guess must of you are pretty happy with SC aquarium quality and delivery to the curb side ?

Regards,
ABHISHEK

SC is not a cheap manufactorer BUT they are also not a custom house. If you want them to do a custom tank for you it is similar in pricing to many of the custom guys. If you go with a stock tank then it is more expensive in most instances compared to other mass production guys like Marineland.

Considering the amount of us on here who have or have seen tanks of various quality and we all like the SC line you should feel safe to go that route as well.

Though that said ANY manufactorer can have a bad piece of glass, seam, or silicone and cause a leak. Risk we take in this hobby. Ensure you have home/renters insurance and that it covers an aquarium.
 
I wouldn't want a sump to take up all of the room unless I had a fish closet nearby or something to use to store things...

My idea exactly, I need SOME type of other space down there, but I still want as large of a sump as possible, so maybe once I decide on the tank I'll contact trigger or synergy and see what can be made to my liking.

Have to talk to Steve sometime and see what the cost ends up being if I ditch the sump / equipment and just just want the tank and wood stand.

2nd idea; what are your thoughts on just asking for the sump from the 50 with the 66 tank?? I could fit a nice 10 gallon ATO next to it then.
19-3/4"W x 16-1/2"L x 13"H
vs
28"W x 17"L x 13-3/4"H
 
all depends on what you want honestly. A trigger or synergy sump will have more features like adjustable walls, probe holders, dosing line holes, ect but you will pay more. So it is fully up to you on what route you wish to take.

I like the after market personally for the features gained and looks but others see it as just a sump and are good with the glass ones Steve sends. Totally up to you.
 
Think the smaller one he offers from the 50 would be too small for the 66 though? Just for simply fitting an ATO unit down there?

Likely to start I would like to just use something that's available for simplicity.
 
Has anyone ordered the wooden stand instead of the mdf ? I am planning for the 66 gal tank with the wooden stand . Steve mailed me saying they will have 2x4 reinforcement .

How do you guys like the wooden stand ? It's 200$ more only but thought better peace of mind ?

Regards,
ABHISHEK

You might want to find out what the useable space in the cabinet is for the aquarium size you want to purchase. Don't take this as a negative, I really like the aqurium and stand. But without information on the inside dimensions of the cabinet, I should have taken the next step which would be to ask for that information. Just what I learned from my purchase. I purchased the 90 PNP with the wood stand and found that because of the way the stand is built, I only have room for the sump below. There is a 2x4 center brace in the back which reduces the useable depth inside the cabinet to 19". The useable width inside the cabinet is 34.5" and the useable height is 33.25". After putting the sump (31.5"x16.5"x17.75" standard sump for 90G) in place and leaving a marginal clearance from the rear 2x4 brace and the sides to keep vibration noise from the cabinet, there is only 2" of space on the side, and 3" of space in the front for additional equipment. The space above the sump to place equipment is 12". At this point, I'm considering purchasing a smaller sump (an additional $325 cost which I had not counted on). Had I known the internal size of the wood cabinet, I would have ordered my system without the sump or a smaller one. Having a large sump it great, but if you can't put any other equipment in the base, other considerations have to be made.
 
Quick off topic question... what do I use to glue rocks after they are underwater? I read on Amazon that aquarium epoxy does not cure when wet ..
 
The coral epoxy sticks cure underwater just fine. Many use them to affix corals.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
I don't glue my rock work but you can use any like the tunze, Io, and others

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Just wanted to drop a note to thank everyone on this thread, especially Soulpatch, and to thank Steve at SCA for his unrivalled customer service.

I've filled my tank and cycling it.. couldn't have done it without all the help.

To clarify, despite my bad experiences, I would highly recommend SCA products, phenomenal CS!!
 
I used the BRS mini reactor on my previous tank. Just use short screws with a head that the reactor mount will work with.
 
Short enough to not go all the way through the stand, long enough to hold the reactor. I used a small power drill for the screws. I didn't use a drill bit to drill pilot holes.
 
I prefer the deluxe BRS reactor since it has an air purge and such.

Also the soft silicone upgrade is VERY worthwhile IMHO. I used some neoprene behind the mounting plate to further kill any potential vibrations to the stand.

As for screws anything will work honestly so long as you either use a washer or get a large head screw so that it is larger then holes in mounting plate.
 
sounds good. Another question. As I put up lights on the aquarium, I noticed that the silicone seal is a bit thin on one edge of the aquarium. It is not leaking.

Is this a problem (or a potential problem) that I need to fix to avoid a leak?

Please see attached pic.
 
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