SC Aquariums Owners Thread

KZ ask Steve if he can send out a sample of the stain or a piece of the veneer depending on what they used for your stand. Looking at the pics you only have to worry about the one side. The top and back will not be seen and to seal those I would put a thin layer of silicone just to ensure no seeping of potential spills. Though if you get the stain just do it all.

If veneer I would take a blade and cut out the section impacted and replace with a new piece. You wil see the slightest seam but it would only be visible to you since you know it is there and being in the back with the lower light hitting the stand I bet it would be invisible.


I too needed a new door for my wood stand. There was the smallest imperfection in the door and I had asked for some stain to cover it. Steve said he was on it and in 2 days I had a new door instead with a hand written note saying he was sorry for the trouble and to send back the damaged door with the included shipping slip.

I rarely stand up for vendors as they should be in the business to make a customer happy but there are a select few who have gone above and beyond and as such I defend them. BRS and SC are really the only two in the aquatic world that are on my list as both have gone out of their way to help when something went wrong even if it was my fault.

Crap happens with everyone. I think you have cooled off now as you were understandably mad, depressed, and anxious all at the same time. Hopefully the convo with Steve quelled your nerves and you guys get this worked out.


Thanks SoulPatch! I have cooled off .. Sorry for the rant.
Anyway, Steve will replace the door. I was more concerned about the stability of the tank on the stand. Steve said that it will be fine.

I have attached pictures of the damage. I hope that the foam between the tank and stand evens out the damage.

I bought a touch up marker to fix furniture scrapes from the move (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYT39O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I will test it tomorrow in daylight to match color with the stand.

I think scraping off the damaged veneer and adding a new one might be over kill. Most damage is to the top and back of the stand, the visible side seems to be fairly less damaged, a touch up pen might work.

Any ideas or thoughts?
 

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you can use either to seal technically but clear silicone will look a bit better.

Seeing those pics I would just use the touch up marker on that little spot and call it a day. It is so minimal and with it in the back no one will ever notice.

Yes the foam pad will take care of the top but I would still put either glue or silicone on it to seal the wood.
 
you can use either to seal technically but clear silicone will look a bit better.

Seeing those pics I would just use the touch up marker on that little spot and call it a day. It is so minimal and with it in the back no one will ever notice.

Yes the foam pad will take care of the top but I would still put either glue or silicone on it to seal the wood.

Ok so I put in some water resistant wood glue last night. A few minutes ago, I leveled the stand and put the tank on it. It looks good!

Now I need help with the plumbing. I've got the herbie/beanie design tank with three holes (overflow + return + emergency). I need help with the plumbing.

I've created a new thread for that and would really appreciate your help on setting it up.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24602969#post24602969

Thank you so much friends!!
 
I have a new 50g Cube with 3 holes in the overflow. Is it a good idea to put a check valve after the bulk head in the drain pipe?
Sorry for the newbie question but been out of the hobby for about 8 years.
 
I have a new 50g Cube with 3 holes in the overflow. Is it a good idea to put a check valve after the bulk head in the drain pipe?
Sorry for the newbie question but been out of the hobby for about 8 years.

Here is a link to the basics of the Herbie overflow:
http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

You should have two levels marked in your sump. One when operational, and one when non operational. The overflow will drain back to the sump to the level of the Main drain pipe which would be the level marked as non operational. Once estabilshed, you don't need a check valve.
 
Yeah just design your sump properly, you should not need a check valve, they end up failing in on position anyway.
 
Hi all, planning to order the standard 120.

Couple questions:

What is the actual height (to the mm, or inch), width, and side?
Anyone have one they can measure up?

Also, will it support a canopy on the glass top?

Thanks!
 
Are the exact outside dimensions 48x24x24? Or is there a little overage? (Or underage) I want to make sure my stand and canopy can accommodate it. They were on a tank with trim which added 1/4" to the overall dimensions. The canopy has wiggle room beyond that still.

I just wanna be sure it won't be an airball...

Thanks again!
 
I will measure mine when I get home. The SCA 120 is a very very nice aquarium. The seams and the glass were as good as an old Ellos I had. My only complaint is with the black plastic on the overflow. Mine looked like it was heated up and bent. It wasn't straight, but wavy. It bothered me for a couple of days until I cut it out and replaced it with one I had made for me at work.
 
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Are the exact outside dimensions 48x24x24? Or is there a little overage? (Or underage) I want to make sure my stand and canopy can accommodate it. They were on a tank with trim which added 1/4" to the overall dimensions. The canopy has wiggle room beyond that still.

I just wanna be sure it won't be an airball...

Thanks again!

Mine is exactly 48" long, 24" 1/16 front to back, 23"7/8 tall, so pretty darn close to call out.
 
Sweet thanks!

I'm going to send Steve a Synergy overflow and have him drill the holes and the holes for the return.

Not a fan of the stock overflow.
 
Yeah there is probably a very slight variation depending on silicone job, but should be close enough to get what you need.
I know one guy in my local club is getting a ghost overflow done on his right now.
Mine was the first roll out on these, I gots 2 holes and a standard overflow and I get to make do w/ that, but I'm not complaining, it's a sweet tank and I took precautions to deal w/ that...BUT, one of these days I do plan to upgrade and I'll probably do a ghost as well, or who knows what will be available by that time.
 
I will certainly post with pics on my 150 custom drilled tank when it arrives. Steve emailed me within a few hours after I emailed him that I should email him on the 12th for a delivery date- we are progressing - Yeah!! This way you guys will know if they are as good at drilling tanks as they are at building them. I most certainly will take the stand/canopy and tank out of the shipping crates,etc. before signing off. I am lucky that I have 3 teenagers and myself to carry the tank into the garage - and no stairs. GO to my build thread for updates,etc.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2582016
 
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