Do a search for the herbie overflow system. You will be very happy you went with that system.
Did just that, and i understand now.
Thanks
Do a search for the herbie overflow system. You will be very happy you went with that system.
Sorry this is the right pic.
Thanks! That's good to know. I saw those for rent on custom aquariums site and wondered if that would be the way to go. I'll start looking around locally to see if I can buy/rent some. Might be worth it to buy them because there is a good chance I'll have to move it off again before filling it. Part of the deal to have a reef tank was to get new floors installed first, so I am going to have to move it again before I fill it. I'm thinking I can go ahead and do the plumbing while I am waiting to get the floors done. I better make sure it is leak proof because we are going with a wood laminate.:uhoh2:
The shorter one remove the supplied top and put a strainer on it if you dont have an overflow top cover. If you do haev the top cover run it wide open without strainer. Issue with strainer is that it needs to be cleaned at times and as such you will need to pull the pipes from your overflow to get to it.
sc actually sells an overflow cover. I have one on mine now and no longer use a strainer.
As for raising the level you need the 2 45s so that the emergency can snake up behind the returns. With the t at the top of the return you need to get behind that pipe to raise the water level more and the 45s do exactly that.
(palm to face) I was thinking a 45 on the main and emergency not both on one pipe. So If I was to raise the level of the water with the emergency should I raise the main pipe too? I have seen diagrams of the herbie system thats shows there basically a sweet spot for the height of the main to emergency.
I will look into the cover thank you, Id rather not have to deal with removing the return just to clean a strainer. I honestly don't see the point of a strainer in the first place as the water is going into a filter sock in most cases. I assume catch everything there for removal instead of collecting somewhere you have to fight to get to.
As for raising the level you need the 2 45s so that the emergency can snake up behind the returns. With the t at the top of the return you need to get behind that pipe to raise the water level more and the 45s do exactly that.
I will definitely be looking into a lid or screen of some sort when I get the tank up and going. Do you have any suggestions to a low profile lid?

Hey guys. This is a pic from T8T's build. I am trying to mimic what he did in his overflow and move the return pipe over to the hole drilled on one side. Has anyone else done this and have a picture of it. This picture doesn't really show the pvc fittings he used.
I am close. I have 1" pipe running up from the bulkhead to a tee fitting and a bushing inside one side of the tee but If I push the bushing all the way in when I glue it I will be about 3/8" short from the hole to screw in the loc-line.
Anyone do something similar or have any suggestions?
Does it fit tighter on the 50 cube? I am setting up an 80 gal. Not sure if overflow boxes are different sizes. But you are probably right on it being locked in place from both sides. I will probably just glue the bushing in place the best I can and give it a test. The bushing will be in the tee about 5/8"
I am setting up a 50 cube tank and planning the ATO.
How much water evaporates per week on a 50 cube tank?
is 3 gallon ATO water sufficient for 1 week?