Scandinavian / Japanese Style Reef Tank

+1

Please please don't give up yet.
I am from Taiwan and I have shared your build to many enthusiasts and they are inspired by your design.

In our country, corals are cheap in comparison with Denmark and United States. It is a good thing but also a bad thing; some people treat corals like flowers arrangements they put in homes and they just throw out old dead ones and buy new ones every week. That was me with my first tank because the system wasn't matured and I just kept putting stuff in.

With all the different creatures in the tank causing constant change of variables that we can't even measure. My first tank never took off and the more suggestion people have me, the more changes I was making to the tank, more organisms went to heaven.

The first tank died and so did my passion for it. So I quitted my tank. It took a year for me to regain interest and my motivation and during this time I did my home work. And I figured out the basics; patience, routine/discipline, and observation.

For my second tank (similar size to yours), I did what most people I know don't do in Taiwan. I waited for my tank to cycle for two full months before I added any coral. My friends were laughing at me because they thought that I was keeping an algae tank and one person actually thought it was a beautiful algae tank. However I was determined to have a tank that can be as beautiful as some of the tank on this forum.

Once the algaes and cyano disappeared, I started adding inhabitants, little at a time. Not only the new organism need to get use to my tank, my system (bacteria/bioload) had to adjust to the new organism. While all the same time, I tested my water daily (occasionally more than once); from salinity to alkalinity, ammonia to phosphate.

With all the specific suggestions people give you, and with only good intentions, it might make it more difficult for your inhabitants in your tank because all the changes that's happening in such short amount of time.

Please don't quit and I'm sorry I can't give you any specific solution because it'd only be speculation as no one has the whole picture.

You can make it, just give it time for the system and the organisms to equalize and adapt to your routine.

Ps: for reference, a 30cm green haddoni anemone is $30usd and rbta is $10-20. I have to buy a QT tank ($100usd) today to treat my sick haddoni because someone fed it a dead tang. It's cheaper to just buy another haddoni but I dont want him to die.

uvu8umem.jpg

geduqygu.jpg


Wow Sparkpaul,

I have read your reply 3 times now and I am really glad that you took your time and write on the thread. It combined in a few lines all my assumptions and advice i got from pro aquarists in RC.

I am worried if our tank will follow the path of your first set up. We were actually discussing at home whether we should bring the entire system down and reset it properly this time. We ended up deciding on eliminating contributory factors for time time being. Last night i emptied 5 big buckets of water along with sand and today i will do the same in an attempt to remove all sand. This has been sitting there since day one and it could be a contributory factor.

After we have finished this we will focus on the 3-dosing pumps with Calcium, Mg and kH. I am afraid that there might be something in them that doesnt go well with our tank - Possibly start by trying other brands more drastically go to the solution of a calcium reactor.

For the time being we stopped adding things in the system (e.g. Vinegar, Coral food, amino acids, bacteria, phosphate remover). Only thing that goes in the tank apart from the 3-way dosing is a small portion of flakes for our little ones (fish) which they seem to be doing very good

Unlike Taiwan, Denmark is a very expensive place for our hobby. An average price for SPS is around 80USD LPS is around 70USD and anemones over 100USD.


Vinegar, Coral food, amino acids, bacteria, phosphate remover). Only thing that goes in the tank apart from the 3-way dosing is a small portion of flakes for our little ones (fish) which they seem to be doing very good

Once again thanks a lot for your reply which I have to admit gave us a good feeling in the heart.


P.S.: The pictures look AMAZING!!!!

:wave:

Dino
 
All my buddies are cheering for you! They were so moved when they saw you guys carrying so much water up four floors.

Once your system stabilize, I hope I can send you something from my tank ie maybe something like this.
vydureqa.jpg


This is Pinky today at noon Taipei time. She started as the size of a quarter and now he is four times the size.
 
All my buddies are cheering for you! They were so moved when they saw you guys carrying so much water up four floors.

Once your system stabilize, I hope I can send you something from my tank ie maybe something like this.
vydureqa.jpg


This is Pinky today at noon Taipei time. She started as the size of a quarter and now he is four times the size.

This is one great beauty! YES PLEASE!!!

The buckets of water.... ouch.. that was heavy work - good i didnt have to carry any as i was freshly operated at by back - But you see the Danish girl are real vikings! 2 x 25Kgs x 4 floors x 11 times - Cross fitness!

:thumbsup:
 
Do not hang your nose! All should get.
Is there in your system export system NO3 and phosphate?
Biopellets or algae?
And another question, do not think about setting calcium reactor?

No NO3 or Phosphate export system. Was dosing vinegar and phosphate remover so far. No bio pellets and no algae either.

Calcium reactor: Now you are touching a hot topic. Recently we were talking with two really experienced reefers that have successful tanks with an amazing coral growth "“ tanks like the ones you see as tanks of the month. We got very curious as to how they are able to keep their stock so healthy. Our first assumption was several high tech equipment, tenths of dosing pumps, many supplements etc. We were surprised to hear that simplicity is their key to success. No added elements, no vinegar, no phosphate removers, no amino acids, no coral food: just good husbandry "“ good circulation and.. CALCIUM REACTOR.

As you can understand I became very interested in finding more about the reactor so I started doing my homework and the more I was looking for info the more calcium reactors I could find behind successful tanks.

But I would like to through a question to all who read this thread:

What is your opinion on Calcium Reactors ?
Is it a good return of investment?
Will it benefit our sick tank?



Best regards,

Dino
 
I have both calcium reactor and a ghl dosing pump for balling method. I retired my calcium reactor for a while and the tank continued to thrive.

However, imho, dino don't spend more money on new equipment just yet before your tank stabilize and develop an ecosystem. It's a biological issue.

Just simple water changes and limit your feeding. When I first started after the cycle was finished, I knew I did not have enough bacteria for the bioload, so I only had 3 fish and I fed them once a day and made sure none of the food ever landed on the substrate thus limiting the amount of nutrients/waste in the water column.

Keep temp salinity and alk stable with frequent water changes.

Imagine if you bought a calcium reactor and it outputs too much co2 and brought the ph even lower. ... it just one more variable to worry about.

Right now keep it simple and give it time. If you worry about your inhabitants, see if a lfs or friend will host them for you while you keep a couple in tank as indicators of your system overall development.

If you see that they are doing fine, bring another coral back.... weekly if not biweekly. Slowly but surely, your tank and inhabitants will have the opportunity to balance each other out while you make sure your parameters are stable.
 
No NO3 or Phosphate export system. Was dosing vinegar and phosphate remover so far. No bio pellets and no algae either.

Calcium reactor: Now you are touching a hot topic. Recently we were talking with two really experienced reefers that have successful tanks with an amazing coral growth "“ tanks like the ones you see as tanks of the month. We got very curious as to how they are able to keep their stock so healthy. Our first assumption was several high tech equipment, tenths of dosing pumps, many supplements etc. We were surprised to hear that simplicity is their key to success. No added elements, no vinegar, no phosphate removers, no amino acids, no coral food: just good husbandry "“ good circulation and.. CALCIUM REACTOR.

As you can understand I became very interested in finding more about the reactor so I started doing my homework and the more I was looking for info the more calcium reactors I could find behind successful tanks.

But I would like to through a question to all who read this thread:

What is your opinion on Calcium Reactors ?
Is it a good return of investment?
Will it benefit our sick tank?



Best regards,

Dino

So I am browsing one of my favorite builds and came across such disappointing news! I, like so many others, say please keep fighting! I would hate for you to stop when we all know this can be overcome.

As to your question:

What is your opinion on Calcium Reactors ?
Is it a good return of investment?
Will it benefit our sick tank?


To me, personally, I find them very useful but a bit complicated by the fact that they can be quite touchy (Sensitive). It may take a while before a calcium reactor can be "dialed in" correctly. But... once dialed in appropriately, the return in investment is very high.

Here's my problem with the thought of purchasing one... it doesn't seem like we are still sure as to what is really going on with your reef tank. I am REALLY worried that a calcium reactor, at this point, would further discourage you both in continuing your reef pursuit. It's (usually) a high start up cost, and then there's the tinkering with it until it works. If a problem arises (Which often does at the beginning), I worry it may cause an additional problem for your tank's inhabitants.

My solution? For now, I would just supplement the needs of your tank either manually or via dosing pumps, if you already have them. You can easily maintain Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium by hand or via those dosing pumps.

Until you discover what is truly going on with your tank, I would wait on the calcium reactor until your patience is calmed and your tank is officially stable. I am going to re-read this thread and see if I can help discover what is going on that may have possibly been missed.

If you haven't already done so... what are your current parameters (Alk, average pH, Magnesium, and Calcium)?
 
so i am browsing one of my favorite builds and came across such disappointing news! I, like so many others, say please keep fighting! I would hate for you to stop when we all know this can be overcome.

As to your question:

what is your opinion on calcium reactors ?
Is it a good return of investment?
Will it benefit our sick tank?


to me, personally, i find them very useful but a bit complicated by the fact that they can be quite touchy (sensitive). It may take a while before a calcium reactor can be "dialed in" correctly. But... Once dialed in appropriately, the return in investment is very high.

Here's my problem with the thought of purchasing one... It doesn't seem like we are still sure as to what is really going on with your reef tank. I am really worried that a calcium reactor, at this point, would further discourage you both in continuing your reef pursuit. It's (usually) a high start up cost, and then there's the tinkering with it until it works. If a problem arises (which often does at the beginning), i worry it may cause an additional problem for your tank's inhabitants.

My solution? For now, i would just supplement the needs of your tank either manually or via dosing pumps, if you already have them. You can easily maintain alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium by hand or via those dosing pumps.

Until you discover what is truly going on with your tank, i would wait on the calcium reactor until your patience is calmed and your tank is officially stable. I am going to re-read this thread and see if i can help discover what is going on that may have possibly been missed.

If you haven't already done so... What are your current parameters (alk, average ph, magnesium, and calcium)?

+1
 
Hi Dino,

So I spent some time reading over the entire thread. I looked pretty closely at all the videos, and focused on the problems that you noted and what could be seen in the videos. I also focused on the solutions you have tried to fix some/all of your problems.

I am going to try to cover all things involved with this tank and maybe we'll discover something(s) that can be remedied. Here we go:

The Tank and Sump: Nothing much to go on here as nothing seems to be leaking, and you do an excellent job cleaning the glass. One thing I would ask here (Although very minor) is how often do you need to clean the glass? I'd like to know how long it takes before the view to the inside of the tank is blocked.

Filtration and Water changes: This is an important one for me, for obvious reasons, but lets look at the non-obvious things about this. I want to know the following:

- What is the flow (Liters per hour is fine) from the tank to the sump?
- What model skimmer do you have? How often do you clean it out, especially the pump and airline?
- How often do you clean out (Siphon out) the sump for detritus?
- What other filtration are you using? (Maybe GFO, Carbon, ceramic media, etc?)

Water Flow: I know you've worried about this in the past, and this is my biggest worry for you. It's a bit complicated/difficult to explain why.. but here's my attempt:

- You started out with extremely low flow. It was so low, that I am a bit worried that much of the tank may absorbed much of the "dirty stuff" like phosphates, etc. In effect, your rocks and/or sandbed may have acted like a sponge and took on this load. When it over loaded, it started to seep out and maybe contributing to problems like cyano, etc.

You then increased the flow pretty dramatically. You wondered why corals that liked flow started dying? That could be for several, or all of these reasons:
- The change in flow was so dramatic, it may have not been "ready" for it and just couldn't adjust to the change.
- I personally believe it was the type of flow. I was worried about this when I first saw your closed loop, but you basically have eight streams (Like a jet nozzle on a water hose) in the tank. Think of it like sitting in a room at 82-83 degrees Fahrenheit. Without some air flow, you get pretty uncomfortable. But then eight streams of low powered gusts of air appear, and you just happen to sit slightly out of the way. You get some air.. but it ain't enough. Then suddenly, the gusts of air get super powerful! You are getting hit with a narrow gust of air... like getting hit with a jetstream of water, as opposed to being rained on. While you appreciate the air.. getting hit that hard in a small area gets quite annoying.. but you aren't allowed to move. Then.. after that fun the air gusts suddenly turn off, and the air gusts change (Like when you added the tunzes, and shut off the Oceans Motions pump). Some parts of the room get some decent flow, but others do not. You are now not only unhappy but confused about these gusts of air... imagine the corals with this same scenario. (Its kind of a poor example, but the best I have.) :debi:

What we need to do if make sure the entire tank is getting nice and somewhat even flow, enough that corals are happy and the water column stays fairly mixed, keeping all the "funk" in suspension for your skimmer to eventually get. The problem? This may force you to have equipment (Like powerheads) in your tank, that you did not want. :headwallblue:

Maintenance: The most common one is water changes. Here's what I'd like to know:

- How often and how much water changing are you doing? What kind of salt are you using, and how do you mix it, and for how long? Are you testing new salt mixes to make sure you aren't getting a bad batch?

- Are you adding any additives (Bacteria, iodine, etc) to your tank, aside from the magnesium/calcium/alkalinity? How much of each are you adding and when?

- Like I asked up top, how long does it take before you feel the need to clean the tank walls?

- Have you been siphoning the cyano from the tank?

- Have you been pulling out any of the algae from the tank? Are the tangs eating any of it?

Sand bed: How deep is your sand bed, and how new is it at this point? When was the last time your stirred it up or did anything to it?

Algae, other issues:

- Aside from the Cyano, are you suffering from any other obvious issues like hair algae, bryopsis, etc?

Odd questions:

- Have you lost any or much of you Clean up crew? Has there been a massive die-off of them at all? If so.. when?

Bacteria dosing: This is going to be a bit weird to deduce but we'll give it a try.

- Are you still dosing any forms of bacteria and/or bacteria food? If so, what brand is it, and at what doses? How often are you doing it, and how long have you've been doing it for?

I have to run and pick up my son, but I'll be back shortly and will write more of my questions. We'll get this fixed! :)
 
So I am browsing one of my favorite builds and came across such disappointing news! I, like so many others, say please keep fighting! I would hate for you to stop when we all know this can be overcome.

As to your question:

What is your opinion on Calcium Reactors ?
Is it a good return of investment?
Will it benefit our sick tank?


To me, personally, I find them very useful but a bit complicated by the fact that they can be quite touchy (Sensitive). It may take a while before a calcium reactor can be "dialed in" correctly. But... once dialed in appropriately, the return in investment is very high.

Here's my problem with the thought of purchasing one... it doesn't seem like we are still sure as to what is really going on with your reef tank. I am REALLY worried that a calcium reactor, at this point, would further discourage you both in continuing your reef pursuit. It's (usually) a high start up cost, and then there's the tinkering with it until it works. If a problem arises (Which often does at the beginning), I worry it may cause an additional problem for your tank's inhabitants.

My solution? For now, I would just supplement the needs of your tank either manually or via dosing pumps, if you already have them. You can easily maintain Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium by hand or via those dosing pumps.

Until you discover what is truly going on with your tank, I would wait on the calcium reactor until your patience is calmed and your tank is officially stable. I am going to re-read this thread and see if I can help discover what is going on that may have possibly been missed.

If you haven't already done so... what are your current parameters (Alk, average pH, Magnesium, and Calcium)?

Hi Dino,

So I spent some time reading over the entire thread. I looked pretty closely at all the videos, and focused on the problems that you noted and what could be seen in the videos. I also focused on the solutions you have tried to fix some/all of your problems.

I am going to try to cover all things involved with this tank and maybe we'll discover something(s) that can be remedied. Here we go:

The Tank and Sump: Nothing much to go on here as nothing seems to be leaking, and you do an excellent job cleaning the glass. One thing I would ask here (Although very minor) is how often do you need to clean the glass? I'd like to know how long it takes before the view to the inside of the tank is blocked.

Filtration and Water changes: This is an important one for me, for obvious reasons, but lets look at the non-obvious things about this. I want to know the following:

- What is the flow (Liters per hour is fine) from the tank to the sump?
- What model skimmer do you have? How often do you clean it out, especially the pump and airline?
- How often do you clean out (Siphon out) the sump for detritus?
- What other filtration are you using? (Maybe GFO, Carbon, ceramic media, etc?)

Water Flow: I know you've worried about this in the past, and this is my biggest worry for you. It's a bit complicated/difficult to explain why.. but here's my attempt:

- You started out with extremely low flow. It was so low, that I am a bit worried that much of the tank may absorbed much of the "dirty stuff" like phosphates, etc. In effect, your rocks and/or sandbed may have acted like a sponge and took on this load. When it over loaded, it started to seep out and maybe contributing to problems like cyano, etc.

You then increased the flow pretty dramatically. You wondered why corals that liked flow started dying? That could be for several, or all of these reasons:
- The change in flow was so dramatic, it may have not been "ready" for it and just couldn't adjust to the change.
- I personally believe it was the type of flow. I was worried about this when I first saw your closed loop, but you basically have eight streams (Like a jet nozzle on a water hose) in the tank. Think of it like sitting in a room at 82-83 degrees Fahrenheit. Without some air flow, you get pretty uncomfortable. But then eight streams of low powered gusts of air appear, and you just happen to sit slightly out of the way. You get some air.. but it ain't enough. Then suddenly, the gusts of air get super powerful! You are getting hit with a narrow gust of air... like getting hit with a jetstream of water, as opposed to being rained on. While you appreciate the air.. getting hit that hard in a small area gets quite annoying.. but you aren't allowed to move. Then.. after that fun the air gusts suddenly turn off, and the air gusts change (Like when you added the tunzes, and shut off the Oceans Motions pump). Some parts of the room get some decent flow, but others do not. You are now not only unhappy but confused about these gusts of air... imagine the corals with this same scenario. (Its kind of a poor example, but the best I have.) :debi:

What we need to do if make sure the entire tank is getting nice and somewhat even flow, enough that corals are happy and the water column stays fairly mixed, keeping all the "funk" in suspension for your skimmer to eventually get. The problem? This may force you to have equipment (Like powerheads) in your tank, that you did not want. :headwallblue:

Maintenance: The most common one is water changes. Here's what I'd like to know:

- How often and how much water changing are you doing? What kind of salt are you using, and how do you mix it, and for how long? Are you testing new salt mixes to make sure you aren't getting a bad batch?

- Are you adding any additives (Bacteria, iodine, etc) to your tank, aside from the magnesium/calcium/alkalinity? How much of each are you adding and when?

- Like I asked up top, how long does it take before you feel the need to clean the tank walls?

- Have you been siphoning the cyano from the tank?

- Have you been pulling out any of the algae from the tank? Are the tangs eating any of it?

Sand bed: How deep is your sand bed, and how new is it at this point? When was the last time your stirred it up or did anything to it?

Algae, other issues:

- Aside from the Cyano, are you suffering from any other obvious issues like hair algae, bryopsis, etc?

Odd questions:

- Have you lost any or much of you Clean up crew? Has there been a massive die-off of them at all? If so.. when?

Bacteria dosing: This is going to be a bit weird to deduce but we'll give it a try.

- Are you still dosing any forms of bacteria and/or bacteria food? If so, what brand is it, and at what doses? How often are you doing it, and how long have you've been doing it for?

I have to run and pick up my son, but I'll be back shortly and will write more of my questions. We'll get this fixed! :)


Christian initially I would like to sincerely thank you on behalf of both for your time and effort in assisting. We highly appreciate this and we thank you in advance for your patience.

Here is feedback to your enquiries:

Curent parameters:

pH: 8.10
Temperature: 25.5 c (78F)
Redox: 230 mV
Salinity: 1.0250
kH/ Alkalinity: 125ppm (7 dkH)
Mg: 1250
NO2: 0
NO3: 3
PO4: 0.08
Ca: 380
Potassium: 370
Ammonia: The minimum value on Salifert test set reads “less that 0.25” and that is what I have
Cu: 0
Baron: 1.5ppm


Methods of measuring:
Computer: pH, Temperature, Salinity, Redox
Salifert: Mg, NO2, NO3, Potassium, Ammonia, Cu, Baron
Hanna meter: Calcium, kH, PO4

Q & As

The Tank and Sump: Nothing much to go on here as nothing seems to be leaking, and you do an excellent job cleaning the glass.

Question: One thing I would ask here (Although very minor) is how often do you need to clean the glass? I'd like to know how long it takes before the view to the inside of the tank is blocked.
Answer:I will talk about how the situation is now since a few months ago it was a totally different case. We start seeing a very thin layer of green kind of algae start forming on the second – third day following a good cleaning of the glass.

Filtration and Water changes: This is an important one for me, for obvious reasons, but lets look at the non-obvious things about this. I want to know the following:

Question: What is the flow (Liters per hour is fine) from the tank to the sump?
Answer: 200 to 2,400 l/h but to be honest i dont know on what is it set as it was set upon installation and hasnt been changed ever since

Question: What model skimmer do you have? How often do you clean it out, especially the pump and airline?
Answer: Skimz Kone SK201 - Air intake 780l/h, with a ES2800 pump

Question: How often do you clean out (Siphon out) the sump for detritus?
Answer: Not that often. Maybe once a month. In general the sump looks to be very clean even without cleaning it.

Question: What other filtration are you using? (Maybe GFO, Carbon, ceramic media, etc?)
Answer: We am not using any of the mentioned items. The only one I have is a basket with cotton filter which we change 2-3 times a week.


Maintenance: The most common one is water changes. Here's what I'd like to know:

Question: How often and how much water changing are you doing? What kind of salt are you using, and how do you mix it, and for how long? Are you testing new salt mixes to make sure you aren't getting a bad batch?
Answer: We are doing weekly water change of 10% (approximately 60-70L each time). The salt we have been using so far was Grotech and we just switched last week to a new one named Blue Treasure. We are using a semi-automatic water change chamber so what we do is isolate this separate chamber (by valves) that hold those 60-70L, empty the chamber, put new salt, add RODI and have a circulation pump in this separate chamber to ensure that salt will be dissolved. When we see a fair dilution we open the valves and the water from the chamber start entering the system. Have never test new salt mixes and in full sincerity this is something I didn’t think we have to do nor I know how to do L

Question: Are you adding any additives (Bacteria, iodine, etc) to your tank, aside from the magnesium/calcium/alkalinity? How much of each are you adding and when?
Answer: We used to add 3 drops of ZEObak (bacteria) and 3 drops of ZEOAmino (aminoacids) 2-6ml of Sea Klear phosphate remover (depending on how much algae we could detect on the tank), 6 ml of vinegar (3 x 2 ml so we don’t get great pH fluctuations).

Question: Have you been siphoning the cyano from the tank?
Answer: Periodically, we did though notice that the cyano came and gone at different phases of the day. After siphoning the sand we could see that top layer was as if you add water to powder – it was like a cyano paste.

Question: Have you been pulling out any of the algae from the tank? Are the tangs eating any of it?
Answer: 3 months ago when we got an algae issue I tried to pull it out manually – tanks where not even going close to it – sea hare did her job though. Now we have no algae apart from some parts of the tank where mainly the circulation is not that great and it looks as if it is trapped algae that has died (minor quantity)

Sand bed:
Question: How deep is your sand bed, and how new is it at this point? When was the last time your stirred it up or did anything to it?
Answer: The average depth of the sand bed was approximately 5-6 cm (2-2.3in). The first 5 months after setting the undersigned was stirring the sand all the time because he didn’t like the cyano formation (smart me). After that I read afew articles and stopped my bad habbit. Then for 2 months I didn’t touch at all the sand until we decided to vacuum the sand totally out as it was neither deep enough nor sallow enough – something in between trapping all the crap with a lot of black air gaps that were visible from the sides. What is left now is a very thin (less than a cm deep -0.4 in) layer that we are not able to siphon it totally out so we are more or less bare bottom.

Algae, other issues:

Question: Aside from the Cyano, are you suffering from any other obvious issues like hair algae, bryopsis, etc?
Answer: A lot of hair algae issues started at 2 months after setting the tank and ending on month n.6. for the past 2 month no algae anywhere in the tank . We think that Sea Klear has helped OR created a different kind of trouble which comes with your below question.

Odd questions:

Question: Have you lost any or much of you Clean up crew? Has there been a massive die-off of them at all? If so.. when?
Answer: We reached a point where we would wake up in the morning and start turning turbo snails up side down. It really seemed like there was an attack of a toxic gas – snails were acting as if they had fainted. We are talking about 8-15 snails collapsed every single morning and us spending 5 minutes turning them around. Even if we did so it was taking a lot of time for them to start being active again and before we knew it.. boom, they were collapsing again. I would say that we have had this problem nearly ever since we set up the tank. My partner noticed that when we increased dosing Sea Klear phosphate remover we would see the entire clean up crew collapsed. The truth is that for the past 2 weeks that we have stopped dosing Sea Klear we don’t see as many fainted snails as before. But still there is a couple every day.

Bacteria dosing: This is going to be a bit weird to deduce but we'll give it a try.

Question: Are you still dosing any forms of bacteria and/or bacteria food? If so, what brand is it, and at what doses? How often are you doing it, and how long have you've been doing it for?
Answer: I have stopped dosing any type of bacteria 3 months now. I was using the Bioptim (1 dose per week). I was using it for around 2 months. I stopped using vinegar 2 weeks ago. I have been using vinegar nearly at the same time as Bioptim


I don’t know how important that is but the tank is 8.5 months old. We see so far no life in the rocks. In our old Red Sea Max 250 tank at night there was a mini “Studio-54” action with a lot of different creatures, warms, mysis etc. We do have coraline on all rocks though but no life. We have been thinking of adding a few pieces of live rock and get more diversity but we are not sure if we are not sure if it is recommented. Everyone we have asked says go ahead but we are still in the process of making our homework.


Some pics that might help:

It was doing great until 4 weeks ago


We have lost great lot of Zoanthis - looks like they have closed permanently


What is left from the sand


...In the meanwhile some other corals are doing great


Thank you for your time in reading my pretty long reply. Looking so much forward hearing from you and once again THANK YOU for being there.


Warm regards,
Dino
 
Review

Review

Curent parameters:

pH: 8.10 ***Good

Temperature: 25.5 c (78F) ***Good

Redox: 230 mV ***I've never done much with Redox, and don't measure it myself. I can't give you much info on this, but I definitely see other things I would take care of.. and maybe once fixed the Redox can be fixed.

Salinity: 1.0250 ***Good

kH/ Alkalinity: 125ppm (7 dkH) ***A tad bit low, but nothing worrisome. I wouldn't actively try to raise this right now.. maybe after we get to the other more pressing issues.

Mg: 1250 ***Fine for now

NO2: 0 ***Good

NO3: 3 ***Good

PO4: 0.08 ***Not too major right now

Ca: 380 ***Fine for now

Potassium: 370 ***Another parameter I don't test for, so I'll leave this alone for now. Once we get to the other issues, we'll look at this then.

Ammonia: The minimum value on Salifert test set reads “less that 0.25” and that is what I have ***A bit pressing, but I think solving the other issues will help resolve this parameter.

Cu: 0 ***Good

Baron: 1.5ppm ***Another parameter I don't test for. For now, we won't worry about this.

Methods of measuring:
Computer: pH, Temperature, Salinity, Redox
Salifert: Mg, NO2, NO3, Potassium, Ammonia, Cu, Baron
Hanna meter: Calcium, kH, PO4

Q & As

The Tank and Sump: Nothing much to go on here as nothing seems to be leaking, and you do an excellent job cleaning the glass.

Question: One thing I would ask here (Although very minor) is how often do you need to clean the glass? I'd like to know how long it takes before the view to the inside of the tank is blocked.

Answer:I will talk about how the situation is now since a few months ago it was a totally different case. We start seeing a very thin layer of green kind of algae start forming on the second – third day following a good cleaning of the glass.

***This is good, nothing out of the ordinary.

Filtration and Water changes: This is an important one for me, for obvious reasons, but lets look at the non-obvious things about this. I want to know the following:

Question: What is the flow (Liters per hour is fine) from the tank to the sump?
Answer: 200 to 2,400 l/h but to be honest i dont know on what is it set as it was set upon installation and hasnt been changed ever since

***Oh boy, this is a MAJOR worry for me. You need to find out what flow this is at as soon as possible. If it indeed 200LPH, that is MUCH too low. Think of it this way, your skimmer processes MUCH more water than what is coming into the sump (Assuming it is only 200LPH). As fast as you can, I would definitely boost the flow to the pump's max setting. Even at 2,400LPH, after accounting for head loss, it's going to be lower. Even at the pump's max setting... I still find it a bit low, but not too bad. This issue (If the pump is running on it's lowest setting could definitely be a major, if not THE source of your issues.

Question: What model skimmer do you have? How often do you clean it out, especially the pump and airline?
Answer: Skimz Kone SK201 - Air intake 780l/h, with a ES2800 pump

***This skimmer should be fine, but make sure to clean it out consistently to keep it running in top form. It claims to do tanks up to 320G (1280LPH), so we'll assume half at best.. which your tank is pretty much at.

Question: How often do you clean out (Siphon out) the sump for detritus?
Answer: Not that often. Maybe once a month. In general the sump looks to be very clean even without cleaning it.

***Not major, and if you don't see too much detritus in there it should be fine.

Question: What other filtration are you using? (Maybe GFO, Carbon, ceramic media, etc?)
Answer: We am not using any of the mentioned items. The only one I have is a basket with cotton filter which we change 2-3 times a week.

***We'll come back to this after we've reviewed the bacterial dosing scheme, if you have one. I personally just started using Prodibio, because I didn't want to use my GFO reactor (I don't have much room for equipment).

Maintenance: The most common one is water changes. Here's what I'd like to know:

Question: How often and how much water changing are you doing? What kind of salt are you using, and how do you mix it, and for how long? Are you testing new salt mixes to make sure you aren't getting a bad batch?

Answer: We are doing weekly water change of 10% (approximately 60-70L each time). The salt we have been using so far was Grotech and we just switched last week to a new one named Blue Treasure. We are using a semi-automatic water change chamber so what we do is isolate this separate chamber (by valves) that hold those 60-70L, empty the chamber, put new salt, add RODI and have a circulation pump in this separate chamber to ensure that salt will be dissolved. When we see a fair dilution we open the valves and the water from the chamber start entering the system. Have never test new salt mixes and in full sincerity this is something I didn’t think we have to do nor I know how to do L

***Let's start mixing salt mixes for at minimum of 24 hours before performing a water change. I don't believe this is an issue for your tank, but better be safe than sorry.

***This is definitely important. Test the three major parameters of the new salt. Every time you get a new batch of salt, and open it for the first time, mix the new salt water as you would for any water change and then test it for Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium. Alkalinity is the most important one to know, as it'll be the first to impact your aquarium.. but at the same time Calcium and Alkalinity are pretty related.. so if something is wrong with one... then more than likely there is something wrong with the other. Obviously, if something is wrong with the salt batch, don't use it, and get new salt.

***I am unfamiliar with the salts you are using... so I can't comment on their reliability. For now, I wouldn't switch salts unless your tests reveal something about them being bad. If that does happen, we'll talk about your other options.

Question: Are you adding any additives (Bacteria, iodine, etc) to your tank, aside from the magnesium/calcium/alkalinity? How much of each are you adding and when?

Answer: We used to add 3 drops of ZEObak (bacteria) and 3 drops of ZEOAmino (aminoacids) 2-6ml of Sea Klear phosphate remover (depending on how much algae we could detect on the tank), 6 ml of vinegar (3 x 2 ml so we don’t get great pH fluctuations).

***This is where it'll be a little tricky for me, mainly because I am not there, but we'll give it a shot.

***I would stop adding Amino Acids for now, as I don't think it's needed and may be contributing to your overall load of "stuff". Instead we'll come back to it's usage after dealing with your current major issues.

***I am going to assume (And I hope someone corrects me if I am wrong) that ZEObak is fairly similar in terms of bacteria that consumes nitrates and phosphates to help with achieving ULNS (Ultra low nutrient system). I see they recommend 1 drop per 100 liters, about once or twice per week. If I am not mistaken, you have about 720L tank. I am guessing you are under-dosing your system? If I am correct, you should be dosing more like 7 drops per week (Or twice, but for now.. I would go with the lower range.) Here's my next issue.. (next paragraph).

***I recently started using Prodibio, which has us dose the bacteria AND food for that bacteria. I don't remember you using a Zeo Reactor... so how are you feeding that bacteria? For the people reading this: This is not a discussion on the merits of the system or of bacteria systems in general, please don't contribute opinions about that. If you have experience with Zeo.. I would definitely appreciate your input so we can get Dino back on track.

Question: Have you been siphoning the cyano from the tank?

Answer: Periodically, we did though notice that the cyano came and gone at different phases of the day. After siphoning the sand we could see that top layer was as if you add water to powder – it was like a cyano paste.

***Cyano bacteria is what I call a quick powerhouse problem. It quickly "consumes" the surrounding tank funk, and holds it until usually the light disappears.. to which all the "funk" gets re-released. If you have the opportunity, it helps to siphon that out when you see it. Every little bit helps.

Question: Have you been pulling out any of the algae from the tank? Are the tangs eating any of it?

Answer: 3 months ago when we got an algae issue I tried to pull it out manually – tanks where not even going close to it – sea hare did her job though. Now we have no algae apart from some parts of the tank where mainly the circulation is not that great and it looks as if it is trapped algae that has died (minor quantity)

***This is pretty good news then. If you don't have a full on breakout.. then I consider that a win. We'll definitely want to take care of the source, instead of just the symptoms.. but we'll get that done too.

Sand bed:

Question: How deep is your sand bed, and how new is it at this point? When was the last time your stirred it up or did anything to it?

Answer: The average depth of the sand bed was approximately 5-6 cm (2-2.3in). The first 5 months after setting the undersigned was stirring the sand all the time because he didn’t like the cyano formation (smart me). After that I read a few articles and stopped my bad habit. Then for 2 months I didn’t touch at all the sand until we decided to vacuum the sand totally out as it was neither deep enough nor sallow enough – something in between trapping all the crap with a lot of black air gaps that were visible from the sides. What is left now is a very thin (less than a cm deep -0.4 in) layer that we are not able to siphon it totally out so we are more or less bare bottom.

***Okay, well that simplifies things in terms of determining a problem. For now I would probably just leave the substrate as it is.

Algae, other issues:

Question: Aside from the Cyano, are you suffering from any other obvious issues like hair algae, bryopsis, etc?

Answer: A lot of hair algae issues started at 2 months after setting the tank and ending on month n.6. for the past 2 month no algae anywhere in the tank . We think that Sea Klear has helped OR created a different kind of trouble which comes with your below question.

***I have a feeling that your phosphate remover is like many others, in which it binds the phosphate to be later picked up by something like a skimmer. If this is true... then we really need to up the flow to the sump, so your skimmer has a greater access to it.

Odd questions:

Question: Have you lost any or much of you Clean up crew? Has there been a massive die-off of them at all? If so.. when?

Answer: We reached a point where we would wake up in the morning and start turning turbo snails up side down. It really seemed like there was an attack of a toxic gas – snails were acting as if they had fainted. We are talking about 8-15 snails collapsed every single morning and us spending 5 minutes turning them around. Even if we did so it was taking a lot of time for them to start being active again and before we knew it.. boom, they were collapsing again. I would say that we have had this problem nearly ever since we set up the tank. My partner noticed that when we increased dosing Sea Klear phosphate remover we would see the entire clean up crew collapsed. The truth is that for the past 2 weeks that we have stopped dosing Sea Klear we don’t see as many fainted snails as before. But still there is a couple every day.

***I don't know if there is an official correlation between the dosing of the phosphate remover and the problems with your CUC. I would honestly ask the Chemistry pros (Actually, I'll go ahead and ask them.) My only thought is that maybe the phosphate remover is accumulating too much in the display, and is not being directed to the skimmer because of the severely low flow (Again, I am assuming this low flow) to the sump/skimmer.

Bacteria dosing: This is going to be a bit weird to deduce but we'll give it a try.

Question: Are you still dosing any forms of bacteria and/or bacteria food? If so, what brand is it, and at what doses? How often are you doing it, and how long have you've been doing it for?

Answer: I have stopped dosing any type of bacteria 3 months now. I was using the Bioptim (1 dose per week). I was using it for around 2 months. I stopped using vinegar 2 weeks ago. I have been using vinegar nearly at the same time as Bioptim

***Uh oh... let me ask you this. Do you know the difference between BioDigest and Bioptim? Basically, BioDigest is the actual bacteria and Bioptim is the food for the bacteria. Adding Vinegar, which is another carbon source, food for the bacteria, may be a big problem. If you overload your tank with a carbon source, bad things tend to happen.. like HA, cyano, etc.

***If you still have Prodibio products, I would recommend you stick with BioDigest and Bioptim for now, as that would currently serve in this situation well. If you are using their other products (Like Reef Booster) I would stop it for now.

***Bacteria regimens take weeks to work, before you start seeing results. Once started I would stick with it for at least two months before expecting any tangible results.

I don’t know how important that is but the tank is 8.5 months old. We see so far no life in the rocks. In our old Red Sea Max 250 tank at night there was a mini “Studio-54” action with a lot of different creatures, warms, mysis etc. We do have coraline on all rocks though but no life. We have been thinking of adding a few pieces of live rock and get more diversity but we are not sure if we are not sure if it is recommented. Everyone we have asked says go ahead but we are still in the process of making our homework.

***Dino, I would wait until we've solved the core issues in your tank. Your tank and rock had life before, and something has wiped out the majority of it. I would say, let's first get the things we see that need fixing done first, and then move onto diversifying the life in your tank.

********************************* Other things I'd like to see done.

I would like to get the flow situation helped in both your tank and to your sump.

*** If you can, we need to get the flow restarted in your tank, the Ocean Motions. Have you found the issue with it yet? If not, you'll need to take it out and figure out what the problem is, so you can fix it. I would honestly like to get that restarted and a few other powerheads in appropriate places to get the water column in your tank properly circulating. It'll keep things that need to be in suspension, suspended... to later be picked up by your skimmer.
 
Oh boy, I just read up what SeaKlear is.. I hadn't realized it's lanthanum chloride and water. This changes things quuiiiiite a bit. Lanthanum chloride is a pretty complicated subject, and there is much back and forth between using it. If someone does use it, from what I have read, you need to follow pretty specific directions in order to make sure you capture it after it binds to phosphate.

If it isn't captured, it looks like it could definitely cause major issues for the tank.

Here's what I have read about it:

When dosing it, every bottle of the stuff seems to be different. I don't know what the recommended dosage is for SeaKlear. I'll have to look for it.

When dosed, it's suggested to dose it in the skimmer section.

After dosing (I have read dosing it at night is best), you should see your Filter Sock be filled with "flocculant " (The stuff bound to phosphate). You will get this result assuming you use a micron sock. Some people use 1-micron, which will probably overflow pretty soon after putting it on, while others use a 5-micron sock which still allows water and some particulate through... meaning you won't catch all the flocculant.

Are you using a micron sock after dosing SeaKlear Dino? Also, what is your dosage for SeaKlear?
 
Here's a quote by one of the RC team members about Lanthanum Chloride:

"Lanthanum phosphate (the precipitate that forms when you dose SeaKlear) is actually pretty bad news in the marine aquarium. It can clog gills leading to respiratory distress (I've even seen reports of a yellow tang swiming through a cloud of it and dropping dead on the spot) and damage filter-feeding invertebrates quite severely. Lanthanum Chloride is not something to be used carelessly. "
 
Curent parameters:

pH: 8.10 ***Good

Temperature: 25.5 c (78F) ***Good

Redox: 230 mV ***I've never done much with Redox, and don't measure it myself. I can't give you much info on this, but I definitely see other things I would take care of.. and maybe once fixed the Redox can be fixed.

Salinity: 1.0250 ***Good

kH/ Alkalinity: 125ppm (7 dkH) ***A tad bit low, but nothing worrisome. I wouldn't actively try to raise this right now.. maybe after we get to the other more pressing issues.

Mg: 1250 ***Fine for now

NO2: 0 ***Good

NO3: 3 ***Good

PO4: 0.08 ***Not too major right now

Ca: 380 ***Fine for now

Potassium: 370 ***Another parameter I don't test for, so I'll leave this alone for now. Once we get to the other issues, we'll look at this then.

Ammonia: The minimum value on Salifert test set reads "œless that 0.25" and that is what I have ***A bit pressing, but I think solving the other issues will help resolve this parameter.

Cu: 0 ***Good

Baron: 1.5ppm ***Another parameter I don't test for. For now, we won't worry about this.

Methods of measuring:
Computer: pH, Temperature, Salinity, Redox
Salifert: Mg, NO2, NO3, Potassium, Ammonia, Cu, Baron
Hanna meter: Calcium, kH, PO4

Q & As

The Tank and Sump: Nothing much to go on here as nothing seems to be leaking, and you do an excellent job cleaning the glass.

Question: One thing I would ask here (Although very minor) is how often do you need to clean the glass? I'd like to know how long it takes before the view to the inside of the tank is blocked.

Answer:I will talk about how the situation is now since a few months ago it was a totally different case. We start seeing a very thin layer of green kind of algae start forming on the second "“ third day following a good cleaning of the glass.

***This is good, nothing out of the ordinary.

Filtration and Water changes: This is an important one for me, for obvious reasons, but lets look at the non-obvious things about this. I want to know the following:

Question: What is the flow (Liters per hour is fine) from the tank to the sump?
Answer: 200 to 2,400 l/h but to be honest i dont know on what is it set as it was set upon installation and hasnt been changed ever since

***Oh boy, this is a MAJOR worry for me. You need to find out what flow this is at as soon as possible. If it indeed 200LPH, that is MUCH too low. Think of it this way, your skimmer processes MUCH more water than what is coming into the sump (Assuming it is only 200LPH). As fast as you can, I would definitely boost the flow to the pump's max setting. Even at 2,400LPH, after accounting for head loss, it's going to be lower. Even at the pump's max setting... I still find it a bit low, but not too bad. This issue (If the pump is running on it's lowest setting could definitely be a major, if not THE source of your issues.

Question: What model skimmer do you have? How often do you clean it out, especially the pump and airline?
Answer: Skimz Kone SK201 - Air intake 780l/h, with a ES2800 pump

***This skimmer should be fine, but make sure to clean it out consistently to keep it running in top form. It claims to do tanks up to 320G (1280LPH), so we'll assume half at best.. which your tank is pretty much at.

Question: How often do you clean out (Siphon out) the sump for detritus?
Answer: Not that often. Maybe once a month. In general the sump looks to be very clean even without cleaning it.

***Not major, and if you don't see too much detritus in there it should be fine.

Question: What other filtration are you using? (Maybe GFO, Carbon, ceramic media, etc?)
Answer: We am not using any of the mentioned items. The only one I have is a basket with cotton filter which we change 2-3 times a week.

***We'll come back to this after we've reviewed the bacterial dosing scheme, if you have one. I personally just started using Prodibio, because I didn't want to use my GFO reactor (I don't have much room for equipment).

Maintenance: The most common one is water changes. Here's what I'd like to know:

Question: How often and how much water changing are you doing? What kind of salt are you using, and how do you mix it, and for how long? Are you testing new salt mixes to make sure you aren't getting a bad batch?

Answer: We are doing weekly water change of 10% (approximately 60-70L each time). The salt we have been using so far was Grotech and we just switched last week to a new one named Blue Treasure. We are using a semi-automatic water change chamber so what we do is isolate this separate chamber (by valves) that hold those 60-70L, empty the chamber, put new salt, add RODI and have a circulation pump in this separate chamber to ensure that salt will be dissolved. When we see a fair dilution we open the valves and the water from the chamber start entering the system. Have never test new salt mixes and in full sincerity this is something I didn't think we have to do nor I know how to do L

***Let's start mixing salt mixes for at minimum of 24 hours before performing a water change. I don't believe this is an issue for your tank, but better be safe than sorry.

***This is definitely important. Test the three major parameters of the new salt. Every time you get a new batch of salt, and open it for the first time, mix the new salt water as you would for any water change and then test it for Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium. Alkalinity is the most important one to know, as it'll be the first to impact your aquarium.. but at the same time Calcium and Alkalinity are pretty related.. so if something is wrong with one... then more than likely there is something wrong with the other. Obviously, if something is wrong with the salt batch, don't use it, and get new salt.

***I am unfamiliar with the salts you are using... so I can't comment on their reliability. For now, I wouldn't switch salts unless your tests reveal something about them being bad. If that does happen, we'll talk about your other options.

Question: Are you adding any additives (Bacteria, iodine, etc) to your tank, aside from the magnesium/calcium/alkalinity? How much of each are you adding and when?

Answer: We used to add 3 drops of ZEObak (bacteria) and 3 drops of ZEOAmino (aminoacids) 2-6ml of Sea Klear phosphate remover (depending on how much algae we could detect on the tank), 6 ml of vinegar (3 x 2 ml so we don't get great pH fluctuations).

***This is where it'll be a little tricky for me, mainly because I am not there, but we'll give it a shot.

***I would stop adding Amino Acids for now, as I don't think it's needed and may be contributing to your overall load of "stuff". Instead we'll come back to it's usage after dealing with your current major issues.

***I am going to assume (And I hope someone corrects me if I am wrong) that ZEObak is fairly similar in terms of bacteria that consumes nitrates and phosphates to help with achieving ULNS (Ultra low nutrient system). I see they recommend 1 drop per 100 liters, about once or twice per week. If I am not mistaken, you have about 720L tank. I am guessing you are under-dosing your system? If I am correct, you should be dosing more like 7 drops per week (Or twice, but for now.. I would go with the lower range.) Here's my next issue.. (next paragraph).

***I recently started using Prodibio, which has us dose the bacteria AND food for that bacteria. I don't remember you using a Zeo Reactor... so how are you feeding that bacteria? For the people reading this: This is not a discussion on the merits of the system or of bacteria systems in general, please don't contribute opinions about that. If you have experience with Zeo.. I would definitely appreciate your input so we can get Dino back on track.

Question: Have you been siphoning the cyano from the tank?

Answer: Periodically, we did though notice that the cyano came and gone at different phases of the day. After siphoning the sand we could see that top layer was as if you add water to powder "“ it was like a cyano paste.

***Cyano bacteria is what I call a quick powerhouse problem. It quickly "consumes" the surrounding tank funk, and holds it until usually the light disappears.. to which all the "funk" gets re-released. If you have the opportunity, it helps to siphon that out when you see it. Every little bit helps.

Question: Have you been pulling out any of the algae from the tank? Are the tangs eating any of it?

Answer: 3 months ago when we got an algae issue I tried to pull it out manually "“ tanks where not even going close to it "“ sea hare did her job though. Now we have no algae apart from some parts of the tank where mainly the circulation is not that great and it looks as if it is trapped algae that has died (minor quantity)

***This is pretty good news then. If you don't have a full on breakout.. then I consider that a win. We'll definitely want to take care of the source, instead of just the symptoms.. but we'll get that done too.

Sand bed:

Question: How deep is your sand bed, and how new is it at this point? When was the last time your stirred it up or did anything to it?

Answer: The average depth of the sand bed was approximately 5-6 cm (2-2.3in). The first 5 months after setting the undersigned was stirring the sand all the time because he didn't like the cyano formation (smart me). After that I read a few articles and stopped my bad habit. Then for 2 months I didn't touch at all the sand until we decided to vacuum the sand totally out as it was neither deep enough nor sallow enough "“ something in between trapping all the crap with a lot of black air gaps that were visible from the sides. What is left now is a very thin (less than a cm deep -0.4 in) layer that we are not able to siphon it totally out so we are more or less bare bottom.

***Okay, well that simplifies things in terms of determining a problem. For now I would probably just leave the substrate as it is.

Algae, other issues:

Question: Aside from the Cyano, are you suffering from any other obvious issues like hair algae, bryopsis, etc?

Answer: A lot of hair algae issues started at 2 months after setting the tank and ending on month n.6. for the past 2 month no algae anywhere in the tank . We think that Sea Klear has helped OR created a different kind of trouble which comes with your below question.

***I have a feeling that your phosphate remover is like many others, in which it binds the phosphate to be later picked up by something like a skimmer. If this is true... then we really need to up the flow to the sump, so your skimmer has a greater access to it.

Odd questions:

Question: Have you lost any or much of you Clean up crew? Has there been a massive die-off of them at all? If so.. when?

Answer: We reached a point where we would wake up in the morning and start turning turbo snails up side down. It really seemed like there was an attack of a toxic gas "“ snails were acting as if they had fainted. We are talking about 8-15 snails collapsed every single morning and us spending 5 minutes turning them around. Even if we did so it was taking a lot of time for them to start being active again and before we knew it.. boom, they were collapsing again. I would say that we have had this problem nearly ever since we set up the tank. My partner noticed that when we increased dosing Sea Klear phosphate remover we would see the entire clean up crew collapsed. The truth is that for the past 2 weeks that we have stopped dosing Sea Klear we don't see as many fainted snails as before. But still there is a couple every day.

***I don't know if there is an official correlation between the dosing of the phosphate remover and the problems with your CUC. I would honestly ask the Chemistry pros (Actually, I'll go ahead and ask them.) My only thought is that maybe the phosphate remover is accumulating too much in the display, and is not being directed to the skimmer because of the severely low flow (Again, I am assuming this low flow) to the sump/skimmer.

Bacteria dosing: This is going to be a bit weird to deduce but we'll give it a try.

Question: Are you still dosing any forms of bacteria and/or bacteria food? If so, what brand is it, and at what doses? How often are you doing it, and how long have you've been doing it for?

Answer: I have stopped dosing any type of bacteria 3 months now. I was using the Bioptim (1 dose per week). I was using it for around 2 months. I stopped using vinegar 2 weeks ago. I have been using vinegar nearly at the same time as Bioptim

***Uh oh... let me ask you this. Do you know the difference between BioDigest and Bioptim? Basically, BioDigest is the actual bacteria and Bioptim is the food for the bacteria. Adding Vinegar, which is another carbon source, food for the bacteria, may be a big problem. If you overload your tank with a carbon source, bad things tend to happen.. like HA, cyano, etc.

***If you still have Prodibio products, I would recommend you stick with BioDigest and Bioptim for now, as that would currently serve in this situation well. If you are using their other products (Like Reef Booster) I would stop it for now.

***Bacteria regimens take weeks to work, before you start seeing results. Once started I would stick with it for at least two months before expecting any tangible results.

I don't know how important that is but the tank is 8.5 months old. We see so far no life in the rocks. In our old Red Sea Max 250 tank at night there was a mini "œStudio-54" action with a lot of different creatures, warms, mysis etc. We do have coraline on all rocks though but no life. We have been thinking of adding a few pieces of live rock and get more diversity but we are not sure if we are not sure if it is recommented. Everyone we have asked says go ahead but we are still in the process of making our homework.

***Dino, I would wait until we've solved the core issues in your tank. Your tank and rock had life before, and something has wiped out the majority of it. I would say, let's first get the things we see that need fixing done first, and then move onto diversifying the life in your tank.

********************************* Other things I'd like to see done.

I would like to get the flow situation helped in both your tank and to your sump.

*** If you can, we need to get the flow restarted in your tank, the Ocean Motions. Have you found the issue with it yet? If not, you'll need to take it out and figure out what the problem is, so you can fix it. I would honestly like to get that restarted and a few other powerheads in appropriate places to get the water column in your tank properly circulating. It'll keep things that need to be in suspension, suspended... to later be picked up by your skimmer.

Oh boy, I just read up what SeaKlear is.. I hadn't realized it's lanthanum chloride and water. This changes things quuiiiiite a bit. Lanthanum chloride is a pretty complicated subject, and there is much back and forth between using it. If someone does use it, from what I have read, you need to follow pretty specific directions in order to make sure you capture it after it binds to phosphate.

If it isn't captured, it looks like it could definitely cause major issues for the tank.

Here's what I have read about it:

When dosing it, every bottle of the stuff seems to be different. I don't know what the recommended dosage is for SeaKlear. I'll have to look for it.

When dosed, it's suggested to dose it in the skimmer section.

After dosing (I have read dosing it at night is best), you should see your Filter Sock be filled with "flocculant " (The stuff bound to phosphate). You will get this result assuming you use a micron sock. Some people use 1-micron, which will probably overflow pretty soon after putting it on, while others use a 5-micron sock which still allows water and some particulate through... meaning you won't catch all the flocculant.

Are you using a micron sock after dosing SeaKlear Dino? Also, what is your dosage for SeaKlear?

Here's a quote by one of the RC team members about Lanthanum Chloride:

"Lanthanum phosphate (the precipitate that forms when you dose SeaKlear) is actually pretty bad news in the marine aquarium. It can clog gills leading to respiratory distress (I've even seen reports of a yellow tang swiming through a cloud of it and dropping dead on the spot) and damage filter-feeding invertebrates quite severely. Lanthanum Chloride is not something to be used carelessly. "

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Christian,

Initially apologies for a late reply but I had to travel urgently abroad with work for the weekend and arrived just back home.

kH/ Alkalinity: I have started raising it by 0.10 a day paying attention to pH fluctuations. I was thinking of targeting 11 dkH

Return pump: So now i have it confirmed that it is set on the maximum value which based on the model seems to be 2400l/h.

Mixing salt 24hrs before performing water change: Totally agree and the way our system is being designed we have the luxury of having the salt mix with the RODI within this separate chamber so no need to have additional buckets. We will start dong this right away. We will also start testing the batch.

Aminoacids: We have stopped dosing aminoacids.

***I recently started using Prodibio, which has us dose the bacteria AND food for that bacteria. I don't remember you using a Zeo Reactor... so how are you feeding that bacteria? For the people reading this: This is not a discussion on the merits of the system or of bacteria systems in general, please don't contribute opinions about that. If you have experience with Zeo.. I would definitely appreciate your input so we can get Dino back on track.
You are correct Christian, no Zeo Reactor here, only "œfood" was the vinegar. But I have stopped dosing all these (ZeoBac and vinegar) in an effort to identify the cause of the problems.

***Cyano bacteria is what I call a quick powerhouse problem. It quickly "consumes" the surrounding tank funk, and holds it until usually the light disappears.. to which all the "funk" gets re-released. If you have the opportunity, it helps to siphon that out when you see it. Every little bit helps.
Will start doing so right away.

***I have a feeling that your phosphate remover is like many others, in which it binds the phosphate to be later picked up by something like a skimmer. If this is true... then we really need to up the flow to the sump, so your skimmer has a greater access to it.
Do you think it would make a significant difference if we upgrade on the return pump to a higher pumping power?


***Uh oh... let me ask you this. Do you know the difference between BioDigest and Bioptim? Basically, BioDigest is the actual bacteria and Bioptim is the food for the bacteria. Adding Vinegar, which is another carbon source, food for the bacteria, may be a big problem. If you overload your tank with a carbon source, bad things tend to happen.. like HA, cyano, etc.
So what I have been doing so far is addting both Bioptim and Vinegar and regular intervals and Zeobak as bacteria. Again for around 2 weeks now I am dosing nothing of these staff.

***If you still have Prodibio products, I would recommend you stick with BioDigest and Bioptim for now, as that would currently serve in this situation well. If you are using their other products (Like Reef Booster) I would stop it for now.
I don't have any BioDigest, only Bioptim. Shall I buy or let the system rest?

*** If you can, we need to get the flow restarted in your tank, the Ocean Motions. Have you found the issue with it yet? If not, you'll need to take it out and figure out what the problem is, so you can fix it. I would honestly like to get that restarted and a few other powerheads in appropriate places to get the water column in your tank properly circulating. It'll keep things that need to be in suspension, suspended... to later be picked up by your skimmer.
There are two problems. The main problem is that the pump for the oceon motion is making alot of noise and vibration and we cannot use it because the neighbours downstairs go bananas (understandably). The secondary problem is in the oceon motion iteself, as the two channels rotate the water flowing in makes a tumble sound (known problem). The guy from whom we bought the aquarium has been very busy so although we are very eager to have it fixed we havent been able to. Was on the phone with him today and Thursday he seems to be coming by with an 11.000l/h pump and a 1 channel oceon motion cone. (we cross our fingers)

SeaKlear: Very interesting points concerning the product which makes absolutely sense. When we initially started using we didnt know any better and we didnt use any socks. After a friend suggested using, we started using but only for a short period and then we went for a month without using. We have now stopped using the phosphate remover. Do you recommend we start using sock even though we dont use SeaKlear?

Today we had to make some adjustments to the Tunze pumps as the surface of the tank was full of debris. We have invested so much on this Oceon Motion solution and we hate to have to bring it down and replace it with powerheads. On the other hand if this is what is needed to start seeing some growth and health in our tank then we are wiling to do so.

Once again Christian thank you from both for your help and time. We owe you big time!

Warm regards,

Dino
 
Good to hear from you again! Welcome back. Please update with some pictures.

Hopefully everything will get better.
 
Dino,

- I would recommend, for now, to keep the sock only if you're able to clean it at minimum about once a week... or whenever it gets pretty dirty. If not.. I wouldn't worry about it.. and would just leave it off.

- You shouldn't have debris on your water surface... and that makes me suspect your return pump isn't strong enough. Even at it's perfect best, 2,400 LPH is not nearly strong enough (In my opinion), especially since your aquarium is fairly large (720L). At some point, I recommend you find a pump that can do at least 10x your aquarium (7,200 LPH), after accounting for head loss. This should not only take care of your water surface debris, but also make sure your filtration is getting enough feed water to filter your tank (Like the skimmer).

- I don't want you to take out the ocean motions! I want you to fix it and use it, but my point was that you may have to use the powerheads in addition to the ocean motions. I think you need a lot more flow in your aquarium.

- SeaKlear: I think for now it would be best to avoid this type of phosphate remover. Instead, for now, if you need to remove phosphate, I recommend keeping up with the instructed doses of the bacteria and it's food (If you use Prodibio, it would be BioDigest and Bioptim) and also introduce the use of a phosphate reactor with something like GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide).

I think following the above instructions will greatly help your aquarium situation. Once we get this sorted out, the remaining fish and corals will recover and you'll be able to introduce new ones with confidence.
 
Dino,

- I would recommend, for now, to keep the sock only if you're able to clean it at minimum about once a week... or whenever it gets pretty dirty. If not.. I wouldn't worry about it.. and would just leave it off.

- You shouldn't have debris on your water surface... and that makes me suspect your return pump isn't strong enough. Even at it's perfect best, 2,400 LPH is not nearly strong enough (In my opinion), especially since your aquarium is fairly large (720L). At some point, I recommend you find a pump that can do at least 10x your aquarium (7,200 LPH), after accounting for head loss. This should not only take care of your water surface debris, but also make sure your filtration is getting enough feed water to filter your tank (Like the skimmer).

- I don't want you to take out the ocean motions! I want you to fix it and use it, but my point was that you may have to use the powerheads in addition to the ocean motions. I think you need a lot more flow in your aquarium.

- SeaKlear: I think for now it would be best to avoid this type of phosphate remover. Instead, for now, if you need to remove phosphate, I recommend keeping up with the instructed doses of the bacteria and it's food (If you use Prodibio, it would be BioDigest and Bioptim) and also introduce the use of a phosphate reactor with something like GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide).

I think following the above instructions will greatly help your aquarium situation. Once we get this sorted out, the remaining fish and corals will recover and you'll be able to introduce new ones with confidence.


Hello Christian,

- I bought a new pair of shocks and will place it at the end of the pipe where the overflow meets the sump.
- can you recommend a good and silent model of a return pump? Taking into consideration that noise made the neighbours knock on our door, i want to minimize this to the extend possible even if that means that we need to invest on a good pump. I am actually ready to upgrade this as soon as i get feedback from you.
- I will agree with you. The design of the tank (long and narrow) needs more flow than the regular tanks. I got an own 2.500L/H and last night we found a place we can "hind" it behind the overflow without it being visible. So we can have on the left hand side flow from the return pump and on the right hand side flow from the powerhead. For the time being i changed the flow slightly towards the surface and already this morning there was no debris. You seem to have a spot on observation, Flow seems to be an issue here... A similar observation a friend did when he invited us over to his home the other day and explained how important the flow is for the corals and health of the aquarium.

Phosphate is at 0.08 and i am monitoring it daily. I am very reluctant to add anything at this point (incl. bacteria) as i am trying to identify the main cause of our issues and i am afraid of "loading" the system with added elements that could cross contaminate our system even further.

I promised some pictures. I hope to be able to get home from work not that late so i can make a short video and upload it which will hopefully give a clearer picture.

Best regards,


Dino
 
Dino,

Socks: Sounds good, just remember to keep up with cleaning them out.. especially since they get gunky fairly quickly.

Pump: I don't know what is available in your area, and unfortunately most of my aquarium experience lies with much smaller reefs. Let me look around and see what I can find. Are you looking for a submersible pump?

Flow: I truly believe the amount of flow is your main problem in your tank. Between the stagnant water surface, and the spot algae issues you've been having.. I am sure once fixed, your tank will be back to normal pretty quickly.

I would definitely get that Ocean motions fixed when possible, and if not.. replace it with either another one, or just replace the pump (With much higher flow) and let it flow from all pipes at once, or just cap the pipes and use other means of flow (Like power heads).

Bacteria: I know I have asked this but I am still a bit confused as to what you are using. What brand/regimen of bacteria products were you using, and at what dosage? I actually think it may be more help than harm, especially with Phosphates being present. It won't knock it out on it's own (At least, I don't think it will), but it should put a dent in it.
 
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Dino - Something else I'd like to know/see

I saw your video of your sump, but am very confused by it.

Can you take a picture of your sump and label or explain what each part/section does, and where that water goes?

For instance, I see two smaller pumps in the section left of the skimmer. I am going to guess one is the return pump (Which looks very, very small for the job), but I don't know what the other one does.

How big (In diameter) are the pipes going into the sump? Actually.. how many pipes are coming from the display to the sump? It looks as though there is more than one drain going into the sump.

And what is that tank on the very left of the sump? Is it a water-changing tank? I am also a bit confused as to how that works.

Thanks!
 
Dino,

Socks: Sounds good, just remember to keep up with cleaning them out.. especially since they get gunky fairly quickly.

Pump: I don't know what is available in your area, and unfortunately most of my aquarium experience lies with much smaller reefs. Let me look around and see what I can find. Are you looking for a submersible pump?

Flow: I truly believe the amount of flow is your main problem in your tank. Between the stagnant water surface, and the spot algae issues you've been having.. I am sure once fixed, your tank will be back to normal pretty quickly.

I would definitely get that Ocean motions fixed when possible, and if not.. replace it with either another one, or just replace the pump (With much higher flow) and let it flow from all pipes at once, or just cap the pipes and use other means of flow (Like power heads).

Bacteria: I know I have asked this but I am still a bit confused as to what you are using. What brand/regimen of bacteria products were you using, and at what dosage? I actually think it may be more help than harm, especially with Phosphates being present. It won't knock it out on it's own (At least, I don't think it will), but it should put a dent in it.

Dino - Something else I'd like to know/see

I saw your video of your sump, but am very confused by it.

Can you take a picture of your sump and label or explain what each part/section does, and where that water goes?

For instance, I see two smaller pumps in the section left of the skimmer. I am going to guess one is the return pump (Which looks very, very small for the job), but I don't know what the other one does.

How big (In diameter) are the pipes going into the sump? Actually.. how many pipes are coming from the display to the sump? It looks as though there is more than one drain going into the sump.

And what is that tank on the very left of the sump? Is it a water-changing tank? I am also a bit confused as to how that works.

Thanks!

Hello Christian,

I can understand your confusion - it took me some time to figure out how all these are connected. So here how it works:

From the sump there are two pumps - one is the return pump back to the display tank and the other one (smaller) is a pump that pumps water in the totally left hand side tank (lets call it semi automatic water change tank). In the Semi automatic water change there is a tube that overflows water through a pipe back to the sump (where skimmer is). When we want to do water change we take power off the small pump so no water goes in the semi automatic water change tank. Since no extra water gets it that tank, then the top top part of the water drains through the PVC and then we have a tank which is full of 70L of water isolated by the remaining system. We use a hose and we drain this tank. We place RODI water in, mix salt and then we power the small pump on. Aquarium water gets in the semi automatic water change tank and when it reaches the "overflow point" it starts leaking into the sump. Slowly slowly the newly mixed water gets in the system. The advantages of this system is that you dont stress the corals by lowering the lever every time you do a water change or throwing at one freshly mixed salt in the display tank.

There are 2 drain pipes coming from the display to the sump. The one is the main and the other acts like a safe in case the first cloggs or the water quantity is greater than the drainage volume of the single one

Check out my next post and the video will make it more clear. I have made a closer video of the equipment to explain better.


Best regards,


Dino
 
Update: Video

Update: Video

Hello everyone,

I promised to put some pictures on so to show how the tank is doing.

Decided to better make a video and go through the equipment, old stock, new stock and total tank view.

Here is the link to video.

http://vimeo.com/73238736


Thanks for your time in watching it.


Dino
 
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