Schedule 40 or 80?

nemofish2217

New member
I've been looking at plumbing options, and I've seem to notice some discussion on using schedule 80 pvc bulkheads/plumbing. I've really only ever used schedule 40 and it always seemed to be very robust and sufficient.

What is the reason in particular to use schedule 80?
 
I've been looking at plumbing options, and I've seem to notice some discussion on using schedule 80 pvc bulkheads/plumbing. I've really only ever used schedule 40 and it always seemed to be very robust and sufficient.

What is the reason in particular to use schedule 80?

SCD 80 is approved for 200psi, I think SCD 40 is only 145. I would think that both are well above any operation of our tanks. Maybe some use it for piece of mind?

SCD 80 will maintain temp better, if your equipment is place in a harder environment (like a garage or unheated basement) - but I would think losses to an open sump would negate any of that.
 
80 is overkill in my opinion. Obviously you don't want unsupported plumbing coming off rear bulkheads or long runs, but for the majority of systems it's not necessary.

Sprinkler systems don't require sch 80 and they're pushing a lot more water under a lot more pressure with ever changing ground conditions.

Even most residential pools and spas are plumbed with 40. Think about the difference between a 2 horse power pool pump pushing 4,000 gph through a 2 inch pipe compared to a return pump pumping 1000 gph through a 1 inch pipe.
 
SCD 80 is approved for 200psi, I think SCD 40 is only 145. I would think that both are well above any operation of our tanks. Maybe some use it for piece of mind?

SCD 80 will maintain temp better, if your equipment is place in a harder environment (like a garage or unheated basement) - but I would think losses to an open sump would negate any of that.

Thanks for the input. That could be a reason, concerning a harsher environment, especially considering use in a basement or for peace of mind.
 
schedule 80 is harder to break by tightening or bumping into a pipe. I would do 80 if it fits.

You'd have to bump it pretty hard wouldn't you? I would think your most likely place of trouble would be right at the bulkhead and your concern would be breaking the glass not the pipe.
 
80 is overkill in my opinion. Obviously you don't want unsupported plumbing coming off rear bulkheads or long runs, but for the majority of systems it's not necessary.

Sprinkler systems don't require sch 80 and they're pushing a lot more water under a lot more pressure with ever changing ground conditions.

Even most residential pools and spas are plumbed with 40. Think about the difference between a 2 horse power pool pump pushing 4,000 gph through a 2 inch pipe compared to a return pump pumping 1000 gph through a 1 inch pipe.

I was kind of thinking the same thing. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something major.
 
You'd have to bump it pretty hard wouldn't you? I would think your most likely place of trouble would be right at the bulkhead and your concern would be breaking the glass not the pipe.

Yeah. There's really no particular reason to use schedule 80 over schedule 40 other than a subjective aesthetic preference for a plumbing set-up that's a bit more heavy-duty.
 
In 27+years of setting up my own salt water systems, I've only run SCH40 PVC and never had a failure. I see no reason to run SCH80. Heck, I don't even run SCH80 bulkheads. I've only had one bulkhead nut fail in all that time and it wasn't a big deal. In fact, the 8 bulkheads on my current display are over 17 years old and still going strong and leak free.
 
Sch 80 is overkill but if you want the cool grey color then go with 80

I'd still use schedule 40 and then spray paint ;)

Schedule 40 is all you will ever need.
If money isn't a question you can use schedule 80, but dont think its for function as its only for quality...
 
You may want to go with just sched 80 bulkheads rather than ABS (IF your tank is drilled for them). I find the ABS bulkheads brittle...

Other than that sced 40 is more than adequate PLUS you can get it from your local hardware store whereas sched 80 typically has to be ordered off the net...
 
I'd still use schedule 40 and then spray paint ;)

Just an aside, but don't do this (spray paint PVC pipe). Most of the pigments used in paints that you can find in the home store aren't toxic, but by coating the outer surface of the PVC, you're risking a poor PVC glue bond. PVC glue works by actually dissolving the PVC, so you don't want any sort of barrier to penetration.

But if you'd like something other than white PVC, there's two good alternatives: either buy the PVC that's had the color already added to it when the pipe was extruded, or dye the PVC yourself by mixing an oil-soluble woodworking dye into methyl ethyl ketone (available at the home store), and coating the PVC. If you want to do this, remember that you must do it outside - MEK stinks, is flammable, and is toxic in concentrated amounts.
 
The quality if sch80 valves is generally a lot higher than sch40 ones. If you have a system where you're moving valves a lot (my system allows me to drain water outside and replace with fresh saltwater so I'm constantly flipping valves) then I recommend going with sch80 ones like the Cepex ones sold by BRS. They turn easily and come apart completely for cleaning and adjustment. Since I went with gray valves, I decided to use gray pipe and fittings, but it's purely aesthetic and as mentioned does require more planning because local hardware stores don't sell sch80 fittings.
 
Also schedule 80 won't get as much flow as a schedule 40. They are made with thicker plastic and need to keep the same outside diameter so they fit in standard fittings. That means their internal diameter is smaller (multiplied by 3.1415 r squared) and it is a noticeable difference in flow.

I have used schedule 20 which works perfectly.
 
Just an aside, but don't do this (spray paint PVC pipe). Most of the pigments used in paints that you can find in the home store aren't toxic, but by coating the outer surface of the PVC, you're risking a poor PVC glue bond. PVC glue works by actually dissolving the PVC, so you don't want any sort of barrier to penetration.

But if you'd like something other than white PVC, there's two good alternatives: either buy the PVC that's had the color already added to it when the pipe was extruded, or dye the PVC yourself by mixing an oil-soluble woodworking dye into methyl ethyl ketone (available at the home store), and coating the PVC. If you want to do this, remember that you must do it outside - MEK stinks, is flammable, and is toxic in concentrated amounts.
Or paint after its glued. I did mine along with the back of the tank at the same time. The primer will actually take the paint off if you have to go back later and change something. It just takes a bit more to do it.
 
The quality if sch80 valves is generally a lot higher than sch40 ones. If you have a system where you're moving valves a lot (my system allows me to drain water outside and replace with fresh saltwater so I'm constantly flipping valves) then I recommend going with sch80 ones like the Cepex ones sold by BRS. They turn easily and come apart completely for cleaning and adjustment. Since I went with gray valves, I decided to use gray pipe and fittings, but it's purely aesthetic and as mentioned does require more planning because local hardware stores don't sell sch80 fittings.
It's really just the home depot or lowes valves that are crap and hard to turn. I bought mine from my local plumbing supply ( I use my brothers account and pay alot less since he's licensed) I couldn't believe the difference. The valves on my 75 are a pain. The valves I put on my 20 gallon are easy to turn much better quality.
 
Sch 80 is way overkill, as stated by many people above. You aren't going to hit it hard enough to break sch 40, nor are you going to have enough pressure to crack sch 40.
 
Also schedule 80 won't get as much flow as a schedule 40. They are made with thicker plastic and need to keep the same outside diameter so they fit in standard fittings. That means their internal diameter is smaller (multiplied by 3.1415 r squared) and it is a noticeable difference in flow.



This. I just re plumbed my skimmer and took all the sch 80 out to open up the water channel. Keep that in mind...


Corey
 
Also schedule 80 won't get as much flow as a schedule 40. They are made with thicker plastic and need to keep the same outside diameter so they fit in standard fittings. That means their internal diameter is smaller (multiplied by 3.1415 r squared) and it is a noticeable difference in flow.



This. I just re plumbed my skimmer and took all the sch 80 out to open up the water channel. Keep that in mind...


Corey

Good thoughts...not really wanting to slow the flow down any more than necessary.
 
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